Hi,
The temp gauge on my 100k Mondeo now shoots up to the top end of normal after only traveling a couple of miles.
Have checked coolant levels and pipes and all are ok.
Took it for a four mile drive and when I got back had a look and the cooling fan on the rad wasn't going round which you'd expect surely?
How do I check if it's the fan, or the coolant sensors, etc?
Help and advice much appreciated.
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Just done a 20m drive this morning and the temperature needle stayed on the 'L' of NORMAL for the whole journey and when I got to my destination and had a look the cooling fan on the rad was working.
Any ideas as to why in the space of a week the needle has gone from always being on the 'R' or 'M' of NORMAL to the 'L'? How do I check if it's the water pump?
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Change both temp sensors, change thermostat if the age is unknown, and change the coolant at the same time if age unknown.
www.btinternet.com/~madmole/
Read everything on Mad Mole's website, including this:
www.btinternet.com/~madmole/Reference/Cooling.html
MEG can also offer assistance
www.fordmondeo.org/
Solve the problem before HGF occurs.
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Have a feel of the radiator when the engine is hot (if you can, and carefully!) and make sure it's not only hot, but uniformly hot across its surface. If it's cold, the water isn't circulating through the radiator due to a blockage or a duff thermostat. The fan isn't required to keep the engine cool in normal driving conditions, but if it isn't cutting in, this points to either the switch, or poor coolant circulation as above (if the radiator coolant is staying cold, it won't trigger the fan)
These would be my first points of call.
As Micky says, find the fault before you do major damage.
Cheers
DP
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I agreed with the others and another thing 'air-lock' - trapped air in the system, it's not easy to remove it, but on elsewhere have said try park the car facing up hill with the blower blasting out on full and hot on high, if you felt the heat any hotter than it was before then could have cured the problem, not always that does work.
I'd change the Thermostat and Coolant/Anti-Freeze after front & back flush with a garden hose pipe.
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Sounds to me like the thermostat had a temporary "moment" of failure and is now working ok again.
For peace of mind, and to pre empt hgf I would seriously consider changing it pronto.
Can't think of anything else that would be working for k's of miles, suddenly play up and then behave normally again without anything being done.
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Hi,
Thanks for all your help - it's much appreciated. I followed madmole's instructions on the site:
www.btinternet.com/~madmole/Reference/Cooling.html
and disconnected the top hose on the coolant reservoir and then started the engine after the engine was hot and the thermostat open and pink fluffy dice all came through. So it looks like the coolant pump has gone?
Is it right that the best thing is to have both the pump and the cam belt done at the same time due to risk of coolant getting on the belt?
I know my cam belt is well overdue replacement (it's the original and the car has done 99500) so it's a good time to have it done?
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Are the repair costs approaching 50% of the value of the car? If so, get rid. OTOH, the cambelt should be regarded as a service item and the Mk2 Zetec can reach 150k plus without too many problems.
It's the usual Mondeo problem, it needs some money spending but it's approaching worthlessness. Is DIY belt and pump an option?
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Hi Micky,
Thanks for your thoughts and advice - wouldn't consider diy as I'm a novice - probably would manage the pump but not the belt.
Any idea how much a reputable garage would charge to do both inc labour, etc?
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£150 is the cheapest price I've paid for a Zetec cambelt, I've no knowledge of prices to change the pump. Rapidfit can be competitive and they seem to grovel quite well, so worth a phone call.
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I has a waterpump and cambelt done on my 1995 mk1 a few weeks ago. £450 including vat seemed to be the cheapest I could get from a recommended garage.
Unfortunately, it was too late to prevent Head Gasket Failure, which has now been done too!
I now have to keep it on the road until October to make it all worthwhile!
S
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Update:
The problem was a knackered thermostat, but going to have the cambelt & pump replaced too as they're the originals and the car is 10 yrs old with 99500 on the clock, most of it heavy motoring.
Local garage is charging £260 so I'm chuffed. One wanted nearly £500....
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i would recommend the pump, some of the zetec engines have a coolant pump that has a plastic impellor which are prone to disconnecting from the metal shaft, therefore it doesnt work. when i used to work for ford we started to use no genuine pumps on none warranty jobs as theses had metal impellors which we never had a prob with. hope that helps mate
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