I have a 1998 Ford Transit, not a car I admit, but still a motor vehicle. It is fitted with the 2.5 DI non turbo-charged engine and comes as standard with an EGR valve (Exhaust Gas Re-Circulation) for the purpose of lowering exhaust gas temperature and hence reducing oxides of nitrogen therein.
Some time ago the exhaust started to put out black smoke, a little at first and then more and more. This was traced to the EGR valve tending to open at all times and not just when required, the consequence being that the more the exhaust smoked, the more it smoked etc.
A new EGR valve costs about £120 and thus is not to be changed lightly, so I have been looking at ways of overcoming the problem.
The first method I was told of was just to block off the vacuum pipe that operates the valve, this works a treat. The valve stays closed all the time and the exhaust stays smoke-free all the time, but of course the oxides of nitrogen are presumably higher than desired.
The second method would be to adjust the linkage which controls the butterfly valve which modifies the vacuum which operates the EGR valve. My manual (Haynes) basically says ?take it to a dealer?, my dealer has not got a clue. I have tried hopefully twiddling the linkage, but without any obvious success.
I have asked here before, but sadly without much result but perhaps this time someone may know how to do the adjustment?
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I wouldn't go fiddling with any adjustments - I'd be very surprised if any adjustment were needed.
Make sure that the EGR valve is cleaned out - they stick when they get gunged up.
The gunging up process is very temperature dependent, and the process can reverse at other temperatures. i.e., if you always drive the van gently, and the valve gunges up, an occaisonal hard run might help keep it clean (or, vica versa!).
Number_Cruncher
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I'd just make sure the valve is closed and disable it.
The world could do with a little laughing gas (even if the amount is too small to make people laugh)
These emmission rules are just designed to keep up the replacement cycle of goods.
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I have tried the 'hard run' technique, including driving over two of the 9000ft+ passes in the French Alps and I have tried adding various diesel improvers such as Redex, all to no avail.
I agree that the EGR valves can get coked-up, but mine is clean and what I really need to know is how they are set-up and adjusted.
Does anyone really know?
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Usually opened by the ECU signal to the vacuum modulator.
Can't be adjusted unless you're a phreaking hacker type.
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The 2.5 DI Transit engine does not have an ECU, the adjustment is entirely mechanical and it is this that I need information on how to adjust.
Does anyone know?
My local Ford garage does not have a clue, but someone, somewhere must know?
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The 2.5 DI Transit engine does not have an ECU, the adjustment is entirely mechanical
You sure about that? Ever wondered what that 105-pin plug in the N/S bulkhead was doing? Know what an EEC-V looks like?
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The 2.5 DI non-turbo engine is entirely mechanical in operation, the only electrical connections to the block are for oil pressure, water temperature and fuel cut-off.
The 2.5 DI turbo does have the Lucas Epic management system, but as I explained in my original post, my engine is non-turbo and hence non-ECU.
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Spospe
Have you got the previously-described vacuum-control solenoid for the EGR valve; [beside the radiator?] if so, there must also be an ECU to control it.
Or have you got the Bosch VE/Stanadyne set-up? There's about half a dozen possible engine codes on a '98 N/A 2.5 Tranny - all different.
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The EGR valve is vacuum controlled with two separate pipes, one of which seems to be a ?scavenge? pipe. The valve is located under the inlet manifold and connects via a short metal pipe with the exhaust manifold.
There is no ECU at all for this engine. If it was the turbo-charged version of the 2.5 DI, then there would be an ECU of some sort (usually the Lucas Epic system), but this engine is non-turbocharged and as such does not have an ECU of any sort anywhere at all and never has had such a device (there would not be any point, since there are no electro-mechanical devices for it to control, nor are there any sensors to feed data to such an ECU in any case).
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Yes it is same as my LDV convoey 2.5 DI transit unit.You need a block that is 20mm and that is inserted between the 3rd throttle stop and the accelerator arm ( where the accelerator cable is fixed) On the butterfly end of the adjusting rod you will see a hole in the swivel plate and under the hole is a housing with a round depression
With the spacer block in place use a suitable diameter rod align the hole with the cut -out below. Adjust the link rod until the correct alignment is acheived.
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Im going to try that to on my Dads Transit. Same problem and she just keeps getting Slooooowerrrrrr.......driving us nuts. ill check the pump timing and engine timing too. Wanna keep the exhaust gases right for MOT. She is a low mileage Transit but a 96. She is gettin it in the workshop tomorrow!
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Take it off and put a plate over the hole, get rid of it and the problem is cured or cut the pipe block it
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