I would be grateful for any tips/advice on the following.
The vehicle is a 92 (J Plate) 1.4 Merit (SOHC & FI) with 138,000 miles (true) and regularly serviced and well maintained.
The first problem is the instumental panel orange warning light (engine block symbol) is now on continuosly with the engine running. The engine is quite 'chuggy' at idle and seems prone towards running hot (fan cutting in more often even with January temps). The engine starts fine and there is no noticeable loss of power. I have heard horror stories of dealers reading fault codes and then causing the customer to spend successive big cheques progressing through a list of possible causes rather than achieving a technically accurate and cost effective diagnosis. I would like to get tot he bottom of this without funding the foreign holiday of the dealer principal.
The second problem is that quite an oil leak has developed, appearing around the underside of the distributor. Has anyone tackled this before and is it straight forward?
Many Thanks.
:-)
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There is a web site which describes how to get the blink codes out of your Astra - no tools are needed, you just join termianls A and B in the ALDL socket. Use the forum search facility on the right to find other Vauxhall engine management light threads to find the full instructions.
The oil leak may be a failed 'O' ring between distributor and cam-cover. A ten minute job to fit, but you may need to re-time the engine. If you mark the position of the distributor relative to the cam-cover before removing it, you may avoid the need to re-time. I tend to re-time these anyway, because you don't know that it was correctly set before.
Number_Cruncher
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There is a web site which describes how to get the blink codes out of your Astra
www.topbuzz.co.uk/info/fault_codes/fault_codes.htm
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Thanks for the link Dave - It has took me a little while to get my head round this but I understand it all now and appear to have nothing to lose!
:-)
Interesting development tho' what appears to be like a load of fibreglass is finding its way out of the exhause - I suspect the exhaust system has collapsed internally and this is acoustic damping material. May even be the cause of the wee orange light!
Please tell me there is no fibreglass in the CAT?
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Please tell me there is no fibreglass in the CAT?
There shouldn't be. However there will be some wadding material in the centre box and back box.
As for your wee orange light, chances are the exhaust is the problem. If it cannot breathe properly then more than likely the lambda sensor is triggering the light.
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Thanks for that Dave - very helpful. It all starts adding up now!:-)
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Had similar problem in an old Cavalier. Engine light on, loss of power. Turned out that the backbox was goosed & was sending gases back from whence they came. End result, backbox blew apart, gases escaped & engine light went out.
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OK - had the exhaust system replaced (rear sections incl centre & back box. Warning light still on.
Had a bash at the diagnosis using the fault code guide kindly posted as a link above.
Came up with Code 35 (GM-Multec) which is the idle stepper motor and gives poor or no idle speed control.
Funny how these things sort of fall into place because:
a. The idles speed has been all over the place of late.
b. During diagnosis this wee idle speed motor was running continuosly(with engine off -ignition on).
So it looks as though I need to replace this component.
May I seek advice on this:
a. Any idea what they cost new?
b. Is it worth taking a punt at a scrappy?
c. Does it sound a pukka diagnosis?
Thanks for all your help chaps.
NormanB
:-)
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Norman,
This trouble code is set when the engine speed can't be kept within the allowable range, for a period of over 20 seconds.
This lack of control can be due to a number of faults - not all of which would be fixed by fitting a new valve/motor, amongst these faults, I include a brief list of other possibilities;
If the engine has an air leak downstream of the idle speed control valve, the valve won't be able to keep the engine speed low enough
If the pintle seat is too dirty, so the valve can't seal
If the stepper motor is kaput (check for 60 Ohms in the windings A to B and C to D (with he plug disconnected)
If the wiring between stepper motor and ECU has broken, check between terminals A, B, C, and D on the motor plug and terminals C9, C5, C8, and C6 on the ECU multi-plug
Other engine faults that make idle speed difficult to regulate, including mixture faults, and battery voltage faults - also faults in the wiring to the tachometer and dual info display can trigger tis fault.
So, I think there is still plenty to check before you go and consider buying a new valve/motor.
Number_Cruncher
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Would I be right in thinking ?
That there is a common problem on Cavs of this vintage whereby a split happens in underneath the trunking from the air filter. SOme bit of its rubs on an engine component and over the year wears to a hole which causes an air leak.
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Thanks to Number Cruncher and Pug-Ugly
OK understood - I will check all you suggest.
I am worried about the bit about wiring to the dual info display as I have an aftermarket stereo so by neccessity this has disruped the function of the display.
:-)
NormanB
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I am worried about the bit about wiring to the dual info display as I have an aftermarket stereo so by neccessity this has disruped the function of the display.
As long as you just plugged the aftermarket stereo in, and didn't hack around with the wires between the radio and the display, you should be fine - the display just reverts to being a clock, rather than acting as the display for the radio.
I think PU's advice is also good - IIRC, there was some trouble with leakage into the vacuum devices driven by small pipes leaving the manifold downstream of the throttle on these cars/engines, which will allow extra, unmetered air into the engine.
Number_Cruncher
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Hi NormanB,
I read your car's problem, but i read it just now and its 2007. But i would like to know what happened and how did you solve your car's problem? thanks. Your car's problem is similar to mine. Chugging, loss of power and leaks. The engine, no matter how many times it has been re-adjusted, the engine still becomes off.
Thanks. Would like to hear from you soon.
myastraneedshelp (mark)
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NormanB's problem is on a different engine, with a different fueling and engine management system. The answer to his fault will be of NO help to you.
The correct way to attack the problem is as per Screwloose's suggestion in you main thread; i.e., have the fault codes read by someone who knows their onions!
Number_Cruncher
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i see, thanks for clarifying.
mac
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