Hi guys. Wondered if anyone could shine some light on my problem. I have a Honda Prelude 2.3i on a 96M, since purchasing the car about 10 months ago I have found the revs on the car when in top gear jump up about 300rpm when excellerating for a second then settling down. I you get upto speed the revs tend to rise and fall if you have you foot just touching the throttle. seems to me like the fluid is very thin but with not being an expert on autos thought someone might be able to help.
Thanks. Pete
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A Honda with a problem? Blimey.
Cheap things first: change the fluid and make sure you refill with exactly the right amount of exactly the correct type, taking a surgical approach to cleanliness in so doing. If you search the forum on "ATF" or "fluid change" or some such, you should find plenty of guidance on how to do it -- there is a correct procedure and it may not be what you expect.
Your problem is not a million miles away from one I experienced when a servicing main dealer failed to refill my MB's autobox with the correct amount of ATF.
If refilling makes no difference, consider going to an autobox specialist:
www.fedauto.co.uk/
rather than a Honda dealer. I know someone who used to be such a specialist and he often said that many people don't realize that autoboxes are much more amenable to economical adjustment and repair than you might fear. If you're going to keep the car, a £150 service of the autobox may be worth considering.
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I think your car is OK. I suspect what is happening is that the lock-up clutch is dropping out when you press the pedal (as it should). The engine rpm will increase very slightly. As you ease off the throttle again the lock-up will engage and rpm will drop very slightly (you may feel a very slightly shudder and rev counter needle will drop slightly).
Note that Honda 'boxes should be filled with Honda ATF or a good 'universal' synthetic ATF. DIII can be used at a pinch but change quality not quite so good.
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Agree with Aprilia, it's the lock up working, certainly that's what happens with mine.
ATF to Honda spec is only available from Honda or Rover dealers and comes marked as Unipart. Only available in 2.5l containers for about £18, so not cheap. No other ATF's meet the Honda spec, although a number of places use Dexron III, so it's your call. Personally, I just use the proper stuff, suck it out the dipstick hole, but you'll only get about 2l out. I suck it out every other engine oil change, ie. every 10K miles. Not cheap, but then a tranny failure will write the car off, so it's usefull insurance.
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If your auto box is anything like European front-wheel drive autoboxes (often built in Japan!) the lock-up clutch shouldn't drop out just because you press the throttle, it should only drop out if a lower gear is selected or the road speed drops below the minimum (about 50 mph).
Changing the fluid is always the first cheap step with autobox problems. There are two different type of fluid - Dexron 2/3, often called ATQ in cheaper brands and ATF. Make sure you get the right type for your box.
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If your auto box is anything like European front-wheel drive autoboxes (often built in Japan!) the lock-up clutch shouldn't drop out just because you press the throttle, it should only drop out if a lower gear is selected or the road speed drops below the minimum (about 50 mph).
Depends totally on how the transmission has been designed. Most will drop out of lockup when demand (throttle) is increased. 'European' front-drive autoboxes are European designed by definition - ZF and Reanult being the major manufacturers. Some, like the ZF4HP14 runs split torque in 3rd and locked in 4th - there is no lockup clutch as such. Honda use a clutch mechanism within the TC which is engaged/disengaged via fluid pressure controlled by a solenoid valve.
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What box does a Saab 9-5 have and what fluid does it take? It locks up on a light throtle at 50-55mph but will drop out of lock up if you increase throtle pressure. Is this normall? When you are going faster it will stay in lock up.
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What box does a Saab 9-5 have and what fluid does it take? It locks up on a light throtle at 50-55mph but will drop out of lock up if you increase throtle pressure. Is this normall? When you are going faster it will stay in lock up.
This would be the GM4T65E (same as used on the Volvo S80 and a host of US GM cars). It takes D-III. Not a bad box. The behaviour you describe is normal. They are a nice smooth shifter normally.
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Is this box used in the volvo v70 as well?
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Is this box used in the volvo v70 as well?
I think the V70 uses the Aisan-Warner box similar to some Vauxhalls. Not certain though - have a look at it - you should see Aisan-Warner or 'AW' written on it somewhere.
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Changing the fluid is always the first cheap step with autobox problems. There are two different type of fluid - Dexron 2/3, often called ATQ in cheaper brands and ATF. Make sure you get the right type for your box.
There's lots of different fluid specs. Many manufacturers are going to 'own brand' fluids - I suspect this is mainly to increase profits since they normally charge a fortune. The differences are down to minor variations in friction modifier in the fluid. Hondamatic fluid is a Dexron III base with increased friction modifier, as is Mitsubishi/Kia/Hyundai SPIII. Toyota/Lexus have 'Type-IV'. JATCO, ZF and GM 'boxes will run Dexron III, although Nissan have just introduced something called 'K-Matic', which seems to be a D-III clone. Dexron II is now obsolete and you won't find it in most factors.
Castrol make some wonderful stuff called Transmax Z - its a green coloured fully synthetic which meets Toyota T-IV, Nissan, D-III and Ford Mercon specs. Its very dear though (about £15 a litre!). Its also good for Jap manual transmissions needing a GL-4 gear lube, since it comes out as a 70W-80 GL-4. Great for those notchy Mazda, Honda and Mitsu manuals - if you can afford it!
With an autobox you can often tell if you've the wrong fluid in, or the fluid is burnt, because the lockup clutch will 'shudder' when it engages. If you get a shudder then get your tranmission serviced and ensure they use the right fluid (lots of places just bung in the cheapest D-III they can buy, at about £1 a litre, and then charge to you £10 a litre).
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Thanks for the advice. didnt realize how much a auto box service would be. to me that seems a reasonable price. That is something I will try in the next couple of weeks. forgot to mention that sometimes when its cover a few miles and warmed up nicely I have experienced the revs jumping up as if there is no pressure in the box when taking a corner. Is this normal? Also I used to have a rover 623 auto with honda motor and this didnt have any problems with the revs. I take it its the same box.
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If the'box is 'flaring' on a corner then that indicates low fluid level.
Get the car hot. Park it up with the motor running and hyandbrake on and shift the selector lever through P-RND321 a couple of times. Leave it 2 mins and then pull the dipstick out (engine still running). The fluid should be at the 'hot max' mark.
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