Do I have to use Peugeot's recommended anti-freeze (PROCOR 3000)
in the above car, I imagine it has a price adjustment because of it's name?
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Yes and use deironised water as well. Eurocarparts claim to supply a direct equivelent my local Pug dealer supplied it at a reasonable cost £3.16/ltr from memory. Regards Peter
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No you don't have to use the peugeot stuff. Any decent ethylene glycol will do, like blue col or equivalent.
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I used blue col if I remember correctly in my 2.1td 406.
Does this mean I might have damaged my engine?
What is different about Peugeots antifreeze compared to an off the shelf quality one?
Cholin, on mine I had to make a header tank to help rid air locks, and I did this by removing the plastic "level indicator" found in the header tank, and cut the bottom off a plastic antifreeze bottle, turn it upside down and used blue tack to make a seal on the filler neck of said bottle. On mine there's a bleed valve just behind the fuel filter which proved very usefull.
Reggie
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Antifreeze that meets the relevant BS standard will be fine, don't worry.
You only have to worry on HDi engined cars - using OAT based antifreeze. Identified by its pink colour.
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You only have to worry on HDi engined cars - using OAT based antifreeze. Identified by its pink colour.
Please can you expand on that DL. HDi Xantia's original fill looked green, never needed a significant top up. Have not checked since it was drained and refilled at the 75k service last week.
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Well, all I can say is all HDi engined Peugeots that I have encountered have contained pink coloured OAT based antifreeze.....never seen green or blue.
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The HDi does use the long life OAT stuff. But the old fashioned XUD will be fine with any good quality glycol coolant.
This is just peugeot trying to scare you in to using their own branded stuff like all manufacturers do.
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Valeo (manufacturers of the heater matrices in Xantias and XMs that have a habit of leaking) will only entertain warranty claims on replacement units if the cooling system has been thoroughly flushed before replacement, and Citroen Anti-gel used as the antifreeze. I guess the 406 will use a very similar matrix to the Xantia, so make of that what you will....
On the other hand I changed the coolant in my Xantia for Cit anti-gel when I changed the rad, and the matrix started leaking 5000 miles later. A dose of Forte rad sealer has fixed that for the last 13,000 miles though - I didn't fancy taking the dash out in January, but it will probably start leaking again the week before Christmas, so that will be my Christmas holiday!!
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RichardW
Is it illogical? It must be Citroen....
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Many thanks to all who replied to my query and Reggie for tips.
Peter seemed to be the only dissenting voice as regards using non Peugeot recommended. I am going to try Halfords Advanced(?)
Antifreeze which pricewise was roughly the same as Peter paid for the pukka article, ah well. Should anything untoward result I will report!
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I also parked it on a slope, with the header tank being at the highest point, ran the engine and opened the bleed valve intermittently, until there were no more bubbles coming from the bleed valve.
Incidently, the bleed valve was plastic and broke off, so I had to get the remains of the thread out with a small drill and screwdriver, and Peugeot supplied me with a brass flush fitting "grub screw" type of valve with an allen key head. This saved me having to buy a new pipe with the fitting in.
Reggie
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I have used Halfords Advanced (Peugoet 106 diesel) for past 5 years. No corrosion probs at all..
madf
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I had the same problem with the bleed screw near the fuel filter housing. Little brass allen key grub screw seems to work ok.
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Peogeot insist on the product as it minimises corrosion not just the oxidising variety but the electro reactive corrosion that eats radiators, heater matrix’s etc. In addition some of the engines use liners and compatibility with the liner to lower casting seal is essential. I’ve just changed a radiator on a 106 and the new rad (original manufacture ) is incredibly light, the aluminium must only be a few thou thick. The old rad had corroded from the outside due to road salt probably. Very important to get all the air out of the system and usually requires to be bled 3 or 4 times from both the rad and the rear bleed valve. De-ironised water is far better then any old tap water if you want to keep the engine cooling system intact. You pays ya money and ya takes ya choice. Regards Peter
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I understand what you are saying Peter, but the genuine peugeot stuff is almost exactly the same as other brands chemically.This is just peugeot protecting their interests.
Like you say each to their own.
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Have just started this job i.e drain, deal with leaky radiator hose, refill. Have drained rad. Mr.Haynes says there is a drain point at the rear of the block. Having contorted my 70yr old joints under the thing I can't find one, maybe it's my 70yr old eyes. Any keen eyed young person or senior person in better nick than me care to put me wise?
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I know that this is of no help, but I couldn't find it either, so worked on the basis of the relatively small percentage that was left in the block would be insignificant in the sceme of things.
Does this make me a bodger?
Reggie
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No, it means you live in the real world.
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I'm sure there is a drain plug on the back of the XUD block - I will take a picture of a scrap block on Monday, if that helps.
But, as has been said, the amount left in the block is insignificant.
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Hope this might be of some use - just found this in my "Revue Technique" for the Xantia HDi
"LIQUIDE DE REFROIDISSEMENT
Capacite : - sans clim. :8,5 litres. - avec clim. : 11 litres.
Depuis l'annee modele 2001, tous les modeles recoivent un nouveau type de liquide de refroidissement. Il est formellement interdit de melanger l'ancien et le nouveau liquide de refroidissement
Preconisation :
- jusqu'a l'annee modele 2000 : liquide Revkogel 107 ou Procor 3000 (protection jusqu'a - 35°C).
- depuis l'annee modele 2001 : liquide Glysantin G33 ou Revkogel 2000. Periodicite d'entretien :
- niveau : tous les 2 ans ou tous les 20 000 km. En entretien severe, tous les ans ou tous les 15 000 km.
- remplacement et purge tous les 120 000 km ou tous les 5 ans jusqu'a l?annee modele 2000. Depuis le millesime 2001 : pas de remplacement preconise du a l'adoption d'un nouveau type de liquide de refroidissement a duree de vie illimitee."
Don't know what your French is like but basically it says (hope I am not being patronising here! My French ain't brilliant!)
Type of antifreeze changed with 2001 model - do NOT mix old and new types.
In pre 2001 models, check the level (niveau - I presume means strength of mixture not just water level) every 2 years or 20k. Purge and replace every 120k or 5 years.
Since 2001 no replacement necessary because of the adoption of a new type of antifreeze which has unlimited life.
I am open to correction here - but I think that's what is says - if unsure ask your French mistress!!!
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Did you find a drain plug, Dave?
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My L-reg 306 XRDT diesel XUD engine has got a 19mm drain plug on the back of the cylinder block. About half way up the block, close to the flywheel end.
I drained the coolant from the radiator bottom tap, then removed this cylinder block drain plug. Only a tiny dribble came out. Poked in the hole to see if it was blocked, but nothing extra came out.
Conclusion - don't bother with this plug if you're just changing coolant. Though it's probably still a good idea to remove the plug if you're taking the cylinder head off, to drain as much coolant as possible and stop it getting into the cylinders.
After putting everything back together again, I came across an instruction "Set heater switch to max to help draining", but I don't know if this would have made any difference.
Ian
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After I had drained the system I thought to check the heater switch and it was 'off' whwn I turned it on a measurable amout of coolant came out. I wouldn't have thought any coolant remaining in the heater if you neglected to switch it on would make much difference to the general scheme of things any more than some remaining in the block.
A minor point, my original problem was a leak at the top rad. to hose joint. In my case the connection is a click fitting with a square section sealing ring, which had gone hard. The parts screen at the local agent only seemed to show the round section 'o' ring for the bayonet type fitting. The man in the stores was extremely helpful and went to a great deal of trouble to identify the correct item and eventually produce one. For future reference the invoice (for 38p) said Bin SPO8l 1343Z4. Unfortunately it didn't cure the leak although it reduced it. I have now loaded it with Halfords black silicone gasket gunge and am hoping for the best. Next move will be rad. sealer if I can work out a satisfactory way of getting it in without leaving most of it in the expansion tank.
Finally I again thank everyone for their advice and interest.
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For those still interested! Having hermetically sealed the offending joint it still leaked. I now think the coolant is finding it's way via the ferrule at the end of the hose. That is between the hose wall and the metal and by-passing the seal. The inside of the ferrule is quite corroded and this on a P reg, with 65K on the clock and a full service history with a Pug agent up to when I acquired it a year ago.
So what anti-freeze did they use I wonder?
I am awaiting a new hose.
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I'm still interested.
This may be due to me owning the same type of car, with a similar milage and age to yours.
I like to know what may go wrong and how to fix it.
Reggie
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I forgot to ask. Did you ever find the drain plug on the block?
Pity they didn't fit a good old stainless jubillee clip (like on my brothers Primera) rather than a new fangled click fitting. Alright as long as it works.
Reggie
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The new hose seems to have fixed the leak. Couldn't find the drain plug by feel or strong light and mirror but didn't actually get in a position where I could look directly at the back of the block. Settled for the Halfords coolant. Hose was about 9 quid inc. vat. Plastic bottle blue-tacked into filler cap for a header worked like a charm - thanks for that.
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