Problem: 1984 1.6 OHC Sierra has been standing for a couple of months and needs to be started to get it for MOT, but wont. Fuel is getting to the carb (pumping ok - pipe removed to confirm) and new/fresh petrol has been put in. No spark when plug is removed and engine turned over. Likewise no spark when HT lead is held (with protection!!) slightly away from coil. Can lead from distributor end be grounded to check for spark or not? So, changed coil - no go. Changed ignition module - no go. Although friendly car parts shop allowed each to be returned and both were tried individually. Leads are all new. Strange but it has run a couple of times for about 10-15 seconds before cutting out and wont restart. Carb has been cleaned out. Thought it may only be running on what's in the float chamber, but dont think that's it or it would go each time it refilled when turned over. 12v approx is present at the LT into the coil but nothing out. Should be the coil, but as I say have replaced that and no joy. Does there need to be a complete circuit out of the HT? There's a small module on the side of the distributor - feeds from loom into dist. I think it is some sort of inductive trigger - what does this do and could this be the fault?
So, anyone any ideas, or can you point me somewhere - anyone know a good web site for problems? I'm getting very naffed off!!!!
Does FORD really mean Fix Or Repair Daily?
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was it running normally when it was last driven & then parked ?
M.
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Yes, it was running fine. Wish I kept it going!!
Have had suggestions that the fuel might have been off or a blockage the fuel is getting there - I have a jug full to prove it!
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Sorry I can't help you with your problem but I was always told that FORD = F***** on rainy days.
Obviously F***** = "Frisky", honest
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Thanks, I'll trying telling the car that!
I hear the U.S. version is F***** Over Recycled Dodge but as I don't know about Dodges couldn't comment!!!!
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Run a lead straight from the battery to the + terminal on the coil and see if it starts. Could be that there is a bad connection somewhere in the LT circuit which is failing under load (very possibly in the ignition switch).
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Thanks for the tip, I'll try it.
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Karl,
If you have power to the coil, and it has been changed, this is unlikely to be the problem. Your car has a pulse generator inside the distributor which creates a low-voltage signal to the amplifier (or module), which inturn switches the coil. You say that there is a "module" on the side of the distributor, but are you sure this is not just a connection terminal ? The amplifier / module on Sierra is normally mounted on the inner wing panel. Either way, the pulse generator is best checked using an oscilloscope, although an analogue voltmeter will tell you if there is some sort of output, although it may not be consistent or strong enough. If that is OK, the fault is probably with the amplifier - this can be tested off the vehicle by someone with the right bit of kit, or by substitution. However, it is not uncommon for the amplifier to lose it's earth connection somewher in the loom, and we usually just "piggy-back" a new earth onto the existing wire. If you car really does have the amplifier mounted on the side of the distributor this earths trough the dizzy body, and simply removing it, cleaning up and treating mating surface with vaseline, and refitting may provide a cure.
Sorry this is all a bit complex ! There comes a point where you may be better off calling in an expert if not familiar with these systems and tests - no disrespect, just a question of expense versus time, effort, AND expense !
Regards, Adam
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Adam,
Thanks. The ignition module itself is fixed to the side of the inner wing. I think the 'module' on the side of the distributor is an induction module but I don't have the haynes manual to hand. It's about an inch and a half, round plastic. It's held to the body of the dizzy with a plastic tie so not earthed - it could just be a connection terminal. It says "pull apart" on it!!
There are wires in from the loom and wires out (3 I think) which go into the dizzy. Can the dizzy be tested and/or repaired or is it a replacement job?
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Karl,
It seems to definitely be just a connection block. Yes the dizzy can be tested, but best, as I said, with an oscilloscope. You are looking for a switching voltage as dizzy is rotated about 1.5 volts peak to peak. Dizzy is pretty reliable though. Module is the more common failure, but you really do need to check the module earth first - can't quote pin numbers from memory, but it's a fairly safe bet that the brown wire is it. Should be no more than 0.5 ohm resistance.
Sorry this is so late in the day - busy day out and about as usual !!
Regards, Adam
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