For some strange reason n the last few weeks my crankshaft pully has started wobbling only at idle mind.
Anyway it makes the car a touch noisy at idle.
Whats the best way of repairing this, obviouslt a new pulley is required, can the woodruff key be replaced or is it a new shaft job.
Or is here a bodge i can do! The car has only done 120k, and is otherwise running fine.
Any help appreciated.
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First off...DON'T DRIVE THE CAR ANY FURTHER
Any problems with a loose crankshaft pulley will quickly result in a destroyed crankshaft = new engine time.
Get it looked at ASAP, please.
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Yeah i stripped it down earlier, no noticible wear, and its only a slight wobble!I tightened the thing back up and its slightly better.
I think either the pulley or the woodruff key are worn :(
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I saw on another Website someone had a similar problem, he could not stop his pulley bolt coming loose because it wobbley like yours. So he put loads of 'Loctite' bearing fit compound on the crankshaft and bolt, he said that cured the problem.
But anyone who used this stuff or similar, you'll know that you need a welding torch to break its hold. Not a very good idea.
As already been said, don't use it get it sorted before you ruin the crankshaft, the pulley is easy to replace the crankshaft is not.
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Did the bolt fully tighten?
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I think it did but i havent got a torque wrench at the mo.
I had some one stand on the brakes whilst the car was in 5th gear, the drivers wheel was off, and i tightened it untill the pulley turned the cranshaft if that makes sense.
Its 80 notes for a new pulley from gsf, so im gonna change that, im not sure what im gonna do if the woodruff key is worn too:(
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wohoo,
I had the same on the XUD on my 405.
Somewhere in the archive is a description.
However, in short, as I caught it early enough, the keyway was not damaged too much, and a new woodruff key and pulley sorted it, along with huge dollops of "liquid metal" steel/epoxy adhesive.
It did, however, present some "challenges" for the engineer who came to remove the pulley to change the timing belt. If you are involved, make sure that you _do not_ use a claw-puller on the outer edges of the pulley. This will crack the edges and distort the pulley which has a rubber ring between the "outer" and "inner"
The 405 then ran for another 50K++ and was not one of the reasons I scrapped it at 251K
HTH
rg
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I hope if i get to the point of epoxy, i would do the water pump and timing belt, which would see me good for 50 odd k, i dont plan to keep the car for that long maybe another year at most.
How easy is the woodruff key to take out? and where exactly do you need the epoxy to go on too? the slot?
Im gonna try a new pully this week sometime (80 quid) see if that cures it.
Cheers
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wohoo,
Yep, if you are in that area, do the belt and pump.
It's best to invest in or borrow a proper pulley and flywheel locking kit. It can be a pain to get it all lined up.
The key will probably fall out on it's own! Check if the keyway is really bad. It should still give a "fix" for the right position for the key. Put plenty of epoxy in the keyway to support it.
All should become clear when you take it down.
HTH
rg
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Well looking at it, the key and the key way look fine, so im hoping its just the pulley.
Fingers crossed!
Any reccomendations on the type of epoxy use?
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...I seem to recall something called "Liquid Metal" or similar from Halfords. I used "Loy Metal Mender". There is something called "Belzona" which is used by the military on tanks, but it probably comes in huge quantities.
I think that it's all the same stuff, epoxy glue with iron in it for strength, etc.
I suggest replacing the key as it may be slightly damaged and they only cost a few pence.
It is a bodge, but an effective one.
(The next owner may post on here saying "I can't get the ###### pulley off")
rg
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Though you say it's an XUD is it possibly and HDi engine?
The pullies on these are renowned for "wobbling" as they are 2 part with a rubber ring in between the inner and outer. This becomes unbonded and the outer moves in relation to the inner. Nothing to do with woodruf keys and crankshafts. I note that rg mentions a 2 part pully on an XUD.
Derek
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The XUD has a rubber cushion as well. I know - I damaged a pulley getting it off!
The key indicator of a loose pully is slight "lost movement" on the shaft, and a solid "thunka-thunka" noise at tickover.
rg
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Its deffo a Xud.
And the pulley is slightly loose, i gotta get my hands on a torque wrench later today so i can torque it up correctly.
One question tho, should i have all four wheels of the car on the floor to tighten it? i know the car should be in 5th and foot on brake, but when i tried to tighten it last time having in 5th and foot on the brake the crankshaft just turned when i tried to tighten it, but one wheel was off the ground.
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In line with some of the wonderful advice given above, I used the Loctite, Liquid metal epoxy route to repair a damaged keyway on my 406 1.9 TD. It works fine,(+10,000 miles so far). I would offer the following bits of advice.
1. Clean out the thread in the crankshaft for the pulley bolt, mine was full of junk where the loose bolt had been rattling back and forth. Use Loctite on this bolt, get a new bolt if it looks ropey.
2. Use a flywheel locking key, you'll never get it tight enough just holding the engine by keeping it in gear, I tried this at first and the clutch simply slipped.
3. If you are using loctite on the pulley to shaft (I did) I would be sure the cambelt, idlers, water pump, oil seals are OK as it will be a hassle getting it off again.
Good luck!
Canuck
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