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Full time AWD (Subaru for example) - replace all 4 at the one time.
The CRV is not full-time drive.
My 2011 CRV starts as a FWD car and, if it detects slippage, it engages the rear wheels. The OPs car has 4 wheel drive when moving off and disconnects the RWD if there is no slippage.
Last year I swapped the fronts for the backs as my Indie mentioned slightly uneven wear on one of the fronts. Tracking was fixed and the fronts went to the back - fronts were 4mm and the backs were 5/6mm (almost unused tread).
I bought Avons at recommendation of National Tyre - made in UK.
National tyres want fitted £124 each. less 10% off for 2 (£224) and 15% if you fit all 4 so about £424 fitted.
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I bought Avons at recommendation of National Tyre - made in UK.
National tyres want fitted £124 each. less 10% off for 2 (£224) and 15% if you fit all 4 so about £424 fitted.
Only Avon motorcycle and motorsport tyres are made in the UK. Their car and light truck tyres are made overseas. Last couple of Avons I looked at were made in Serbia and China. They are a brand of Cooper Tires (US company).
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Sorry to contradict you on where the Avons on my CRV were made.
On my hands & knees - I read Made in England
They are either Made in England or they are flouting the laws by misrepresentation, which I doubt.
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On my hands & knees - I read Made in England
So my hands & knees should read Made in Scotland?
(As, I'd have thought, should yours, but I suppose a username has no legal standing)
I'll have a look, but it wouldn't surprise me if they were some cheap knock offs. They have been only middling quality.
Edited by edlithgow on 09/06/2022 at 15:43
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Even though 4WD, it seems the front tyres do most of the work and wear out first. So I would swap them to the back to get the most out of them, being aware that there would be a slightly increased chance of an oversteer skid on an oily wet roundabout. Then replace all four at once. At about half the mileage you expect to get out of them, e.g. 12-15,000 miles, I would swap them front to back so they all wear out at roughly the same mileage.
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Swapping fronts to back is generally good practice as long as all the tyres are good. Just beware of directional tyres. You can still swap front to back but you have to keep the swap to the same to maintain the same direction.
I did it on my car last year with just the car’s own jack and the space saver. Ruddy hard work on a hot day. One for the garage next time I think.
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Even though 4WD, it seems the front tyres do most of the work and wear out first. So I would swap them to the back to get the most out of them, being aware that there would be a slightly increased chance of an oversteer skid on an oily wet roundabout. Then replace all four at once. At about half the mileage you expect to get out of them, e.g. 12-15,000 miles, I would swap them front to back so they all wear out at roughly the same mileage.
"Test track work has shown that having greater tread depth on the front tyres than on the rear tyres above a certain level can halve the cornering forces a car can cope with before loss-of-control occurs. Conversely, excess tread depth on the rear is not identified as a problem by Blythe and Day. "
"Work by Williams and Evans and Blythe and Day (Williams and Evans (1983), Blythe and Day (2002)), identified the potential danger that two new tyres on the front and two worn ones on the back could create. Blythe and Day reported that normal lane change manoeuvres can lead to loss of control on a wet road if sufficient difference in tread depth exists from front to rear, with the better treaded tyres on the front axle of a passenger car. Blythe and Day observed that the effect holds true regardless of the drive train configuration."
Blythe W and Day TD (2002). Single vehicle wet road loss of control; effects of tire tread depth and placement. SAE Paper 2002-01-0553. Accident Reconstruction 2002 (SP-1666). SAE 2002 World Congress, Detroit, Michigan, 4-7 March 2002. Warrendale, PA.
Williams AR and Evans MS (1983). Influence of Tread Wear Irregularity on Wet Friction Performance of Tires. pp 41-64 Frictional interaction of Tire and Pavement, ASTM STP 793. W E Meyer and J D Walter Eds., American Society for Testing and Materials.
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Sorry to contradict you on where the Avons on my CRV were made.
On my hands & knees - I read Made in England
They are either Made in England or they are flouting the laws by misrepresentation, which I doubt.
What is the date of manufacture? They shut down light vehicle tyre production in Melksham early 2019 iirc. Only motorcycle and motorsport now
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Date bought 2018/19 - I cannot remember exactly.
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There is no need to replace all 4 tyres on a CRV, replacing just a pair (front or rear ) is perfectly ok. I have done this on mine with no problems. There is not enough difference in circumference between new and worn tyres to cause any problem with the AWD system.
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That's useful to know.
My Sorento is sensitive to as little as 2mm difference between front and rear.
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The Honda CRV is not a true AWD car, if it was, I would be driving one by now as a Honda enthusiast,
All this messing about and doublespeak in the past by Honda about "programming" and "overheating of the rear diff" etc put me right off - either it's AWD or it isn't, and as no ability to lock the system into 4WD is available, it's not AWD in my book.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkiv-bWbLIo&t=4s
And some revealing tests on various model years of the CRV model.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=d1qq-jdq6qg
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All, after looking at all the comments (extremely helpful), and looking at other forums, as well the the manual, this is what I think: Manual says, replace all 4 if possible, else do in pairs. My back tyres are still good, so perhaps I will buy 2 new ones for the front, and in due course of time, buy 2 new ones and put them in front and the nearly new move them to back. Hopefully that should be a good compromise at this point. The only question with this approach though, should the new ones be the exact same brand/model as the existing one, or could it be slightly different (perhaps the new model in the same range).
So existing ones: Goodyear EfficienGrip SUV 4x4 M+S 225/65R17 102H
while buy the new: Goodyear EfficientGrip2 SUV 225/65R17 102H
Car: 2015 CRV AWD petrol automatic
-M
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If you do buy two new front tyres, make sure that the difference in tread depth between the fronts-rears is not over the limit your car's 4WD system can handle.
Just remember to rotate the tyres (as allowed) often enough to keep the wear even, which will help the 4WD system and keep your replacement costs down. Just remember that you would be changing all 4, just a lot less often!
At least then you don't have to mix and match makes/models of tyre, which may give different levels of grip, possibly wear the 4WD system and make handling poorer.
If you live in a rural area and/or one that gets snow/ice or has a lot of bad weather in winter, you may want to consider all-season tyres. They are often actually quite a bit better at gripping in such conditions on a 2WD car than summer tyres (whether SUV specials or not) on a 4WD equivalent, and in 'summer' conditions most are not much worse than summer tyres.
When I changed my Mazda3's (decent) summer tyres (bought 2012) to a high quality all-season in 2018, I could not tell the difference in non-winter dry weather handling, probably because of the improvement in the tech of the tyres generally in that 6 year period. Wet and cold conditions has been better, though I've yet to test them in snow (sadly).
Admitedly not as good (but a LOT closer with the best of the latest versions) as having a set of summer + winter tyres (with steel rims on the winters), but not everyone needs them or can find a space to store the other set for months when not in use.
And of course, all-season tyres are about 15-35% more expensive than standard summer tyres, though again the price differential was on the way down until the Pandemic / current inflationary period. Not sure what the differential is now.
Best of luck.
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Thanks Andy, will keep this in mind.
-M
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"My back tyres are still good, so perhaps I will buy 2 new ones for the front, and in due course of time, buy 2 new ones and put them in front and the nearly new move them to back."
Nope. That's the wrong way round.
New ones go on the back, according to all the usual sources of advice (automobile associations, tyre fitters, car companies etc, etc).
In this particular case there is research data to back this up (see refs above)
Edited by edlithgow on 12/06/2022 at 15:19
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Got it, with the idea that front ones do lot of work, so they wear out faster, and I replace them soon, so have a new lot of all 4 eventually.
-M
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As said earlier-every 4 yrs buy 4 and don’t muck around
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Got it, with the idea that front ones do lot of work, so they wear out faster, and I replace them soon, so have a new lot of all 4 eventually.
-M
The front ones do most work on a FWD car (which yours seems to be mostly), so they wear out faster. When they wear to whatever your replacement point is (which MIGHT be the legal minimum of IIRC 1.6mm) you chuck them away, move your rears to the front, and stick new ones on the back. Simple.
You MIGHT want to try and ensure even wear by rotation, so you end up replacing the full set, but from your description you've already passed the point where that is an option.
IF your rears arent much worn (I didn't see this specified above) you might get away with new ones on the front, to eventually achieve even-ness, but it isn't recommended practice and is likely to compromise handling to some degree.
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