Not sure if it has ABS, I have just recently bought it for my daughter.

Can I free the rear brake compensator if it is seized or do I have to buy a new one?

Where is the brake compensator located?

Where is the handbrake mech located?

Thanks

No experience of ABS, and don't much want any, but I had similar symptoms with one of my rear brake drums not long after I bought the car, which turned out to be due to a simple mechanical issue, in this case a detached brake shoe.

This has happened again once or twice since, probably due to a mix of low use, cheapo replacement Chinese brake shoes, and lots of rain/humidity.

First time I THINK the frictional heating caused the ancient brake fluid to boil, resulting in total brake failure and converting me to regular brake fluid changes.

Might not be an ABS problem, could be sticking slave cylinder if they haven`t been checked for a long time, not many garages these days take the drums off to inspect the mechanism or state of the brake shoes, so the problem may be totally different- until its been inspected which should be done ASAP- its difficult to say, though most common used to be sticking slave cylinder ?

Brake oil?

i would check for heat from both rear brakes after busy use

You always get "heat from both rear brakes after busy use".

If you get excessive "heat from both rear brakes after busy use" which the OP will have to be able to judge, it'll suggest to him that his brakes are binding, which he seems to be already pretty convinced of.

Heat from both rear brakes after no use at all (stopping using engine braking) would be more diagnostic, but requires a safe traffic-free test drive environment and may not be worth the hassle.

Edited by edlithgow on 21/05/2022 at 04:30

i would check for heat from both rear brakes after busy use

You always get "heat from both rear brakes after busy use".

If you get excessive "heat from both rear brakes after busy use" which the OP will have to be able to judge, it'll suggest to him that his brakes are binding, which he seems to be already pretty convinced of.

Heat from both rear brakes after no use at all (stopping using engine braking) would be more diagnostic, but requires a safe traffic-free test drive environment and may not be worth the hassle.

Job in my opinion is being done wrong.

brake problems should be sorted before a fluid change, not before, rear drums should have been removed to check on slave cylinder working condition and fluid leakage, not always spotted from behind backplate, if leaking or piston/s not operating properly replace cylinder, then clean up the mechanical auto adjuster between brake shoes and grease on moving parts only

after checking front brake discs and pads for operation (assuming all is well )then replace brake fluid and bleed system, so the fluid is clean and not going to be contaminated by the old fluid, once you know brakes are fine and you still have problems, look into valves and abs system which usually pop up dash light, but not always depending on fault?

Sure

(I'm not clear how/why this is a reply to the post its replying to, but never mind. It still mostly makes sense.)

However, re "replace brake fluid and bleed system, so the fluid is clean and not going to be contaminated by the old fluid" unfortunately (as I said above) cleanliness can not always be ensured by a fluid change.

My (woefully neglected, Taiwan stylee) brake system suffered successive failures and umpteen fluid changes, with bi-directional pressure flushing, too, since I used a 60ml enema syringe at as much pressure as I could physically apply, but when I stripped the second caliper the cylinder was still full of rusty gritty sludge.

Thanks everyone for your advice.

As I said in an earlier post I have changed the brake fluid.

I jacked the back of the car up off the ground and set down onto axle stands. I turned the rear wheels and they were turning freely with no problems.

I then took off the wheels and drums and everything looked to be normal, brake shoes in location, no damage, no leaks etc.

Last night I put the car on a flat surface in gear with the hand break off, thinking that maybe with the hand brake previously being left on overnight that maybe it was sticking on.

I drove the car this morning and still have the same original problem.

Thanks

Thanks everyone for your advice.

As I said in an earlier post I have changed the brake fluid.

I jacked the back of the car up off the ground and set down onto axle stands. I turned the rear wheels and they were turning freely with no problems.

I then took off the wheels and drums and everything looked to be normal, brake shoes in location, no damage, no leaks etc.

Last night I put the car on a flat surface in gear with the hand break off, thinking that maybe with the hand brake previously being left on overnight that maybe it was sticking on.

I drove the car this morning and still have the same original problem.

Thanks

At the moment I can only think of the rear brake flexi pipe being internally damaged and causing the brakes to hold on longer than they should, they can act as a valve if the internal part of the pipe is broken, apart from that the valve mentioned earlier would cause it but not known many to fail in the past,(though no idea of the Hyundai) other possible is brake master cylinder seal not working properly ?

Always assumed this to be very rare, but I've had it happen on two cars (Daihatsu Skywing and Honda Accord) in the last couple of years so perhaps its commoner than I previously thought.

I diagnosed it by a failure to "push" brake fluid when flushing the brakes, since I do bi-directional flushing using an enema syringe. If you only bleed "downwards", and the hose is acting as a non-return valve, I suppose you might fail to detect the condition when bleeding.

Other possibilities might be dirt or corrosion in the hard pipes or wheel cylinders causing them to stick, or corrosion on the drum backing plate giving it a ratchet effect.

i had this problem hyundai i10 2009

after doing everthing. changed the flexpipe and hey presto. not to say this is your solution. next time it sticks on, check for excessive heat on rear brakes.and crack open the nipple and see what come out

I would agree and say that due to the age of the car it would be worth replacing front brake flexi pipes as well in case you get the same problem on either front discs! in the future

i had this problem hyundai i10 2009

after doing everthing. changed the flexpipe and hey presto. not to say this is your solution. next time it sticks on, check for excessive heat on rear brakes.and crack open the nipple and see what come out

For flexi hose acting as non-return valve to affect BOTH brake drums, (which the OP says is happening, though we don't know what his evidence is) two hoses would have to be so affected, unless there is only one flexi hose for both rear drums. Two such independent failures (or two different failures) are certainly possible but relatively unlikely.

My Daihatsu (which has a beam rear axle) has only one rear flexi hose, but I THINK this will be fairly rare on modern cars with (mostly?) fully independent rear suspension. IF the OP's car has a single flexi hose its strongly implicated.

You could get semi-quantitative circumstantial evidence for both brakes binding with an IR thermometer.

Re "crack open the nipple and see what come out" I'm betting brake fluid, though in a perfect world it would be an unlimited supply of Single Malt Whisky.

I suppose the suggestion is that it'll come out under relatively high pressure in the hypothesised fault condition, but that requires a rather fine judgement.

A better diagnostic would be to use a syringe to draw brake fluid out and then force brake fluid "up hill". If it won't go, (but can be sucked "downhill") that's consistent with the hose (or something else, such as muck in the wheel cylinder) acting as a non-return valve.