If you do, you would need a E6 Diesel, which you won't get on 4K. Means you are onto petrol, which in the size you are looking for will mean struggling for 30MPG which is going to hurt a bit on 12k commuting + other driving a year. Hmm rock and hard place, I hope you are outside the ULEZ!
30 mpg is not a figure I recognise with some recent petrol cars. My 2014 Skoda Superb 1.4tsi averages around 46mpg and does over 50mpg if you take it fairly easy on a long run. Not far off re OP budget. With a long commute keep an eye on projected tyre life/cost - I was burnt with that in the past!!
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Is the ULEZ not commercial vehicles only? I don’t think I’ll be affected (yet atleast). EU6 diesel is well out of budget.
I am happy to get a non compliant car. Most petrol cars seem OK but yes MPG will take a hit.
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Is the ULEZ not commercial vehicles only? I don’t think I’ll be affected (yet atleast). EU6 diesel is well out of budget. I am happy to get a non compliant car. Most petrol cars seem OK but yes MPG will take a hit.
Re diesel - on a £4k budget you are getting a diesel that's probably ageing and fitted with DPF, DMF etc - big bills loom
Edited by Big John on 04/02/2022 at 00:07
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Yeah, I do understand that, it’s a tricky situation in some ways to be ‘economically’ savvy, but I want to stick to this budget if possible.
I am a newer driver, and would rather own outright over PCP.
which is why the budget is limited.
Edited by MarooBaroo on 04/02/2022 at 00:16
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Skoda Rapid or Seat Toledo 1.2 or 1.0 petrol
Surprisingly (to me) reliable long term.
The diesels can do big mileage but most of the taxi trade sell them on once they hit 150,000 miles or 4/5 years.
There was one recently 5 years old on eBay with 247,000 on the clock and full service history.
To my amazement the bidding was healthy and near the end of the auction the latest bid was over £4K!
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Skoda Rapid or Seat Toledo 1.2 or 1.0 petrol Surprisingly (to me) reliable long term. The diesels can do big mileage but most of the taxi trade sell them on once they hit 150,000 miles or 4/5 years. There was one recently 5 years old on eBay with 247,000 on the clock and full service history. To my amazement the bidding was healthy and near the end of the auction the latest bid was over £4K!
The OP wants to fit an adult between two child seats in the back. The Rapid/Toledo may be very spacious for four (with a huge boot), but they are narrow cars, barely any wider than a Fabia or Ibiza of the same age.
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If you want to fit an adult between 2 kids car seats it has to be the best Citroen Berlingo multispace or Peugeot Partner Tepee your money can buy, likely be 1.6 diesel.
The engine has an unfair reputation for being unreliable but there are cases of the running into very high miles with relatively few issues.
As always with a diesel the key is fresh oil every 10k or so.
Your probably asking a lot to get one with a strong service history and for under £4K.
You many find a petrol 1.4 Fiat Doblo for £4K in today’s inflated prices but they will only do 28mpg around town.
Fairly reliable in petrol form although like all Doblo’s regardless of the fuel they drink they all suffer suspension issues.
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Unfortunately, the Ford Focus linked above had gone by the time I got chance to go and view it. The market seems extremely fast moving and inflated at present.
I just wondered if any of the diesel fords would cause significantly more headaches than their petrol counterparts?
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“ I just wondered if any of the diesel fords would cause significantly more headaches than their petrol counterparts?”
At this money, yes they would. Leave diesel we’ll alone unless you’re able to spend a lot more.
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Thanks, I will stick to petrol. Fuel costs will obviously be increased, but I am aware that diesels can have more faults, i.e DMF, etc. I assume your preference applies even for higher mileage drivers at this price point? say 12-15K a year (I expect to drive between 10-12.5K.
Is there a 'too many' miles on the 1.6 petrol Ford? I'd like to run it for as long as possible.
I ask because this is local to me.
www.motors.co.uk/car-60965173/?i=0&m=sr
MOT history is very good?
Edited by MarooBaroo on 12/02/2022 at 17:02
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Thanks, I will stick to petrol. Fuel costs will obviously be increased, but I am aware that diesels can have more faults, i.e DMF, etc. I assume your preference applies even for higher mileage drivers at this price point? say 12-15K a year (I expect to drive between 10-12.5K.
Is there a 'too many' miles on the 1.6 petrol Ford? I'd like to run it for as long as possible.
I ask because this is local to me.
www.motors.co.uk/car-60965173/?i=0&m=sr
MOT history is very good?
No mention of service history but if it has proof of regular servicing then there’s no reason why it couldn’t run for many years but I’d do the timing belt immediately if there’s no proof of it being done. I personally would look for something maybe a bit older with less miles or spend a bit more upfront. £5k would unlock one with maybe 60/70k up.
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That's true to be fair, I hope to run it for as long as possible (unless my requirements change dramatically) so maybe an extra £1K for a much lower example makes more sense. I am looking at 2011 onwards, for which I like the change in styling. They all seem to be well spec'ed but the Titanium seems to be the best? There is plenty of Zetec's out there, which I believe are entry, but still fairly generous. At my budget, I just want a solid drive, that is thrifty to run, and safe. Bells and whistles aren't really used in normal operation, I find.
I have heard they are nice to drive too (handling) so looking forward to testing that out. Is the 1.6 EcoBoost OK (see a fair few).
On a separate note, how much have cars of this age actually increased in price? What sort of money would they be pre-covid?
I have also looked at SEAT Leon's but I think this is preferred to them (1.2TSI etc).
Edited by MarooBaroo on 12/02/2022 at 17:42
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I have found a Ford Focus 1.6 about 5 miles from where I live. Its on 85,000 miles, with full FSH at £4495 in the dark grey colour. It had a few advisories on the last MOT, so will ask if they have been done. They are:
- Central EXHAUST HEATSHIELD NOT FULLY SECURED.
- Nearside Rear TRAILING ARM BUSH SEPARATING SLIGHTLY
- Offside Rear TRAILING ARM BUSH SEPARATING SLIGHTLY
I will ask they put it through 12 months MOT (runs out in October) if possible. Don't think I can get any other freebies in the current climate.
Going to have a look at it tomorrow.
Mileage is a little higher end compared to some, but still good for the age.
Edited by MarooBaroo on 13/02/2022 at 10:23
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The Titanium comes with wider wheels and firmer suspension which harms ride comfort, the Zetec is all you need really, they’ve everything necessary but do without the fat alloys and more expensive tyres. The Edge was the base model, the Zetec was mid range.
Nothing wrong with the 1.6 Ecoboost, it’s the same engine with a turbocharger bolted on but it does increase the likelihood of problems on a account of the added stress on components and the potential for turbo issues. They are pretty robust though so I’d certainly look at a full history car but I wouldn’t buy one with big miles. The normally aspirated 1.6 petrol does everything you’d need as long as you avoid the low output base model 1.6 Edge.
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Excellent, Zetec it is then (a bit cheaper, too).
What is considered 'big mileage?'
I want to run it for a good few years, so it will go into the hundreds I'd expect.
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Any major concerns on the MOT history of the car DE11 LAO? I have been to have a look at it, looks to be in decent condition, though I am no expert. Nice midnight grey colour too, which is nice. I will be able to test drive fully before purchase.
The garage are doing the the water pump and timing belt before sale, plus 12 months MOT(I think it was also due to have the timing belt changed).
£4495 (will see if I can get some extra bits chucked in if needed but prices don't budget much at the moment).
85000 miles. A bit high, but its a few miles away, so there is the convenience element to it all. I could look further afield, but concerns if there are issues you are easily forgotten if you are far away, etc.
I am struggling not to overanalyse it, I guess there is always an element of luck of the draw when buying any used car.
Edited by MarooBaroo on 15/02/2022 at 14:52
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The mileage is fine for the age and money. The Mot history reads like it’s been a female owner (no offence intended) as it’s been sent for tests with what would be very obvious faults to anyone with a vague mechanical knowledge. It’s far from the best mot history but I wouldn’t rule the car without viewing it. I’d want a full service history, whoever had it previously hasn’t exactly lavished care and attention.
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Thanks for this, much appreciated. I do believe it has FSH, but I will confirm that before purchase (as often what is described as such, is not in realiy).
I guess you are really looking at the basics for that then, i.e MOT history should be good/largely clear or only basic advisories, decent tyres if possible, etc. If its got Pirellis/Michelin or whoever it may be, it shows less scrimping, and likely other parts are the same. This is in comparison to the £50 a corner, unrecognisable brand.
I did notice quite a few 'questionable' ones on the MOT history.
As someone who is not mechanically minded (hence the request for advice) its quite tricky to not buy a headache. I have thought about paying for an inspection, but not sure how thorough that is going to be anyway. Perhaps, I am best served going on gut in that respect.
Edited by MarooBaroo on 15/02/2022 at 15:42
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Car mot went from March 2019 to Sept 2020 which suggests it was off the road for 6 months coupled with the list of failed suggests minor accident??
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Looks like its had the free covoid 19 MOT extension as they were exactly 6 months
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Wasn’t there an MOT extension/armistice sort of thing during 2019 due to COVID ? Seem to remember something like that anyway.
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Same issue would flag up with my old Toyota despite a near perfect Mot history. I took advantage of the mot extension during lockdown. Even if it hadn’t been in relation to Covid, a car sat at a dealer for a few months isn’t unusual.
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One thing I did wonder about was how do Mazda 3s stack up against Ford Focus’ of a similar age?
Is one better suited to family life than the other?
Is fuel efficiency similar?
Is the Mazda likely more reliable?
Is one more ‘peppy/powerful’ than the other?
Which would you choose if you had the choice?
Edited by MarooBaroo on 15/02/2022 at 21:20
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One thing I did wonder about was how do Mazda 3s stack up against Ford Focus’ of a similar age? Is one better suited to family life than the other? Is fuel efficiency similar? Is the Mazda likely more reliable? Is one more ‘peppy/powerful’ than the other? Which would you choose if you had the choice?
A £4k Mazda 3 1.6 vs a Focus 1.6 will offer very similar performance and economy as they are about the same size and weight with the same power.
Reliability?, well they are both inherently reliable cars, so how good a buy they are at 10+ years old will have more to do with how they have been looked after by previous owners than one being noticeably more reliable than the other.
If, in the unlikely event you found yourself looking at one of each in the same condition with the same mileage, I'd probably go for the Mazda just for being that little bit less common. But because of the sheer number of Focus's, you've probably got a better chance of finding a nice one.
But, were there a Toyota Auris (1.6) on the cards too, I'd probably go for that over either Ford or Mazda. Same goes for the Honda Civic (1.8).
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One thing I did wonder about was how do Mazda 3s stack up against Ford Focus’ of a similar age?
Is one better suited to family life than the other?
Is fuel efficiency similar?
Is the Mazda likely more reliable?
Is one more ‘peppy/powerful’ than the other?
Which would you choose if you had the choice?
They’re both very similar, which is understandable since they’re based on the same floorpan and suspension setup. The belt driven 1.6 petrol in the Focus is a bit sweeter revving and quieter than the chain driven 1.6 Mazda but both offer similar performance and economy. Longterm reliability is similar again and is reliant more on how the car is cared for than any weakness in either design.
If presented with two identical cars age, mileage and condition wise I’d probably pick the Mazda purely for the superior gear change (though the Ford is excellent also) and the lack of a timing belt change to fund. But I’d buy on condition above all and I’d be happy with a nice example of either.
Edited by SLO76 on 16/02/2022 at 09:27
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Excellent, thanks for the explanation!
This is the car in question:
www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202202102382463?a...e
Anything terrible or of major concern? Tires don’t look the best?
Not sure if anything else or note on a 11 year old car?
Edited by MarooBaroo on 16/02/2022 at 17:24
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I have found a 1.6L Petrol Focus locally, and agreed to purchase it. Thank you for the recommendation.
Then question is now, how do I look after it?
I’d like to keep it for as long as possible until it becomes uneconomical.
It will be going to a local garage, for its servicing.
Hopefully it serves me well, and a few years of relatively cheap motoring!
Edited by MarooBaroo on 17/02/2022 at 20:00
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If the garage is good, then that's the mechanical side of the car sorted. You can then keep the cosmetic side good to maximise its life. If you have access to a garden hose, then I would keep the inside of the wheelarch lips clear of mud and salt. Also get one of those car brushes you attach a hose to and regularly clean along the sills and get down low enough so you can reach across the floorpan as far as you can and then approach from the other side. Get all that salt off after the winter. I am not a fan of pressure washers, I think they cause more problems than they solve.
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Excellent thank you.
Plan to keep it clean/have it cleaned regularly too. The interior is in decent nick, so would like to keep it that way.
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One last question I had was regarding the Ford badge on the back.
Is it possible to remove this and replace it with a new one? Can it be DIYed or would the dealer do it?
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I have found a 1.6L Petrol Focus locally, and agreed to purchase it. Thank you for the recommendation. Then question is now, how do I look after it? I’d like to keep it for as long as possible until it becomes uneconomical. It will be going to a local garage, for its servicing.
Our Mk1 1.6 Zetec Focus, now over 21yrs old with 160,000 miles, was inherited by our son over two years ago. How did I look after it and make it last so long?
1. Change the oil and filter every 10-12,000 miles - cheapest 5-30 semi synthetic I could find.
2.Ignore advice to change coolant (still pink and original).
3. Clean the air filter and pollen filter occasionally - every five years or so will do - with a stiff paint brush. Ours are the originals - the UK is not a dusty country.
It never went to a garage for a 'service'. This avoided the risk of cack-handed mechanics doing something stupid. The MoT provides all the service safety checks you need - no point in paying twice. Also, garages never do the following at a 'service'.
4. Every year - or two - take the wheels off and clean and grease the brake pipes. Also (and this is very important) deal with any sign of corrosion as soon as it arises, especially on the subframe suspension bits. If rusty, wire brush them and paint with something like Hammerite. Occasionally clean the springs - I brushed old engine oil on them occasionally.
The bodywork, although well protected, is eventually prone to corrosion creeping undetected under the thick protective coating of the sills, especially at the rear. This caught me out when it was 17yrs old, requiring some welding on one side - then the other at 19yrs old. Drive it up onto ramps and inspect this area carefully, and especially the recess where the rear suspension attaches to the body. Spray with something waxy, or just brush old engine oil around these areas. The seams at the bottom of the doors also fail eventually - at first sign of brown discolouration chip away with a screwdriver to reveal creeping rust, then use something like Kurust followed by some Hammerite, then the correct colour touch-up paint.
Edited by John F on 18/02/2022 at 09:00
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This is excellent; thank you.
Any tips on replacing the rear badge? Is it a job for Ford or can it be DIY’ed?
The badge is a bit worn and it’ll annoy me!
The rest of the car is immaculate, so plan to keep it that way.
Edited by MarooBaroo on 20/02/2022 at 20:33
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Any tips on replacing the rear badge? Is it a job for Ford or can it be DIY’ed?
The badge is a bit worn and it’ll annoy me!
It is a DIY job, but you will need to take care as it is easy to cause damage. You want to soften up the glue in the double sided tape, this is probably safest done with water (not boiling) rather than a heat gun where its probably too easy to use too much!. Get the edge of a flat blade screwdriver under one side and prise it up. But you will need something soft(ish) to lever the screwdriver against without denting the metalwork, I used to use my finger. You may also need to tuck a bit of cloth or cardboard under the opposite side in case it digs in to the paint when you lever it off.
Clean off the tape/residue with something appropriate before sticking the new badge on.
I'm not sure about the badge on the Focus, but it may have locating pins. If so, just be extra careful prising it off not to break these as they may stick in the holes.
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A quick read of the fordownersclub suggests it's a flat surface on the back and held on with double-sided sticky tape. I think I would try a hairdryer to soften the glue. The badges seem a bit pricey at about £25. Some owners claim you can get a badge to fit over what's there, saving the hassle of moving the old one.
Edited by Xileno on 20/02/2022 at 21:25
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This sounds ideal. I’ll see if I can find one that sticks over the top, would be much easier.
Is it unreasonable on this engine to expect 40 MPG on an 18 mile drive to work. 1.6 petrol, 2011.
9 miles B road (no traffic)
7 miles A road (occasional traffic)
2 miles city (typical city traffic)
That’s where most of my miles will be, keen to keep fuel costs reasonable if possible (versus the high maintenance costs of an old diesel that would deliver better fuel economy), especially as it’s a work expense. Changing job isn’t feasible, as enjoy where I work a lot.
That said, a new DMF, injectors, high pressure fuel pump, DPF, would eliminate those differences. A friend has a 1.6 TDI and has been quoted thousands for new injectors, the cars only done 95K.
I guess there’s no rules with used cars.
Edited by MarooBaroo on 20/02/2022 at 22:27
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That said, a new DMF, injectors, high pressure fuel pump, DPF, would eliminate those differences. A friend has a 1.6 TDI and has been quoted thousands for new injectors, the cars only done 95K. I guess there’s no rules with used cars.
Above case is probably the fuel pump failing sending swarf down the high pressure pipes taking out the injectors. Replacing the whole lot (many £1000's) the only reliable fix. On this engine turbo/associated oilways not far behind. As for the DMF, DPF, pre euro 6 restrictions ....
One rule - if on a £4k budget don't buy a diesel.. It's easy to get fixated on mpg and road fund licence costs but these can quickly be eclipsed.
PS on any car keep an eye on tyre costs/ life expectancy (bitter previous experience!)
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“ One rule - if on a £4k budget don't buy a diesel.. It's easy to get fixated on mpg and road fund licence costs but these can quickly be eclipsed.”
On the button. Diesels won’t save money at this end of the market without a huge dose of blind luck. Stick with petrol and keep it simple.
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“Is it unreasonable on this engine to expect 40 MPG on an 18 mile drive to work. 1.6 petrol, 2011.
9 miles B road (no traffic)
7 miles A road (occasional traffic)
2 miles city (typical city traffic)”
Over that sort of usage and with a gentle right foot and some forward planning (slow down and accelerate gently and give plenty of room) I’d expect 45mpg plus from a Mk III 1.6 petrol. Over the same use I get this from a larger 1.8 petrol Toyota Avensis estate.
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Excellent, thanks for this. That is perfectly acceptable/very good actually.
I am probably overestimating the difference in MPG for petrol vs diesel on this size of car. The most fuel efficient Ford Focus of that vintage is only around 10MPG more efficient, in fairness (real world figures). This is the 1.6 TDCI.
As I have had to 'pay over the odds' for this car due to the current market, I plan to run for as long as possible, so fuel efficiency is important. Would like to get a good few years out it at least, which I think its achievable.
One thing that was mentioned for the Ford was the power steering eventually likely to have a fault, any ideas on cost of replacement for that? I know all cars have vices, just wondered as I could not find it when looking. I also see Honest John lists clutch issues as one of the problems, I assume that's not too bad of a fix?
I was half tempted by a large engine'd diesel car, but the potential bills chucked up, made me feel a bit sick.
Edited by MarooBaroo on 21/02/2022 at 16:16
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Collected the car today.
The garage have done the timing belt, service, MOT and some rear bushes I wasn't happy about which is good (they were advisories).
The drive home was pleasant, enough power for "standard" driving and doesn't feel sluggish at all. One of the standouts in the early impressions, is how good the handling is as it feels very responsive. The gearbox is also very good.
Overall, thanks for the recommendation, very happy with the car.
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What was the final year/make/model/ engine/gearbox out of interest.
[EDIT]Apologies just spotted the 1.6l petrol post further up. Enjoy!
Edited by Big John on 23/02/2022 at 12:49
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Good luck, the Focus is one of my favourite used cars for good reason. Keep it regularly serviced and give it an occasional coat of polish and it should serve you well.
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Periodically check behind wheelarch liners especially near the front & rear sills. If clarted up with debris clean out and rust proof with something (I'm a fan of Owatrol oil but like Dinitrol inside cavities, sills etc). A friends Focus actually ended up failing an MOT as debris had built up and eventually holed the bottom of the front wing near the sill - everything else body wise was really good! It's easy to check and keep on top off.
After this I even checked my own car (2014 Skoda Superb mkII) and discovered something similar building up (I have a photo but can't post on this forum). Fortunately once I cleaned everything out the paint, metal etc was still in great condition - everything got rust proofed thoroughly and will be checked every couple of years from now on.
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Excellent thanks John I’ll keep an eye on that.
One thing I have noticed is that for a time in the cars life, it seems to have been going to the main dealer (I have invoice galore as evidence of this).
It seems to be implied that I’ll need to take it to Ford, to see that history. Is that the case? (It’s ‘digital service history’). What happened to a pen and booklet?
I have SH covering all other years.
Edited by MarooBaroo on 24/02/2022 at 19:07
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It seems to be implied that I’ll need to take it to Ford, to see that history. Is that the case? (It’s ‘digital service history’). What happened to a pen and booklet? I have SH covering all other years.
Fairly standard these days with most manufacturers I'm afraid. My 2014 main dealer servicing was stored electronically at the dealer but they did provide me with a printout every time I had a service etc. When I dropped out of main dealer servicing I bought a service book for my local independent to update from that point and stapled the main dealer history in the front.
Edited by Big John on 24/02/2022 at 20:35
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Noticed an issue with the car in the recent return of rain. The spare wheel well has water in it. The internet tells me this is a common issue with the Focus? I’m planning to get the seller to resolve it (looks like some filters need sealant), but a bit of an odd one!
The car doesn’t smell, but I have noticed quite a bit of condensation (more than expected) so maybe it makes sense now.
Hopefully it’s not too much of a pain, and it can be fully resolved.
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Fairly common problem on the MK3, at least the earlier models. My neighbour had this on a 2012. Bumper has to come off.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=hapb7A6dlsc
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Spoken to the dealer who sold it, he apologized and acknowledged that this can be an issue on this model. He asked me to bring it back on Thursday and they will need it for a few days, assume to do the work and then check it has all dried out correctly. Doesn't seem a particularly big issue, there wasn't a lot of water thankfully.
On a separate note, under full load me, wife, 2x young kids and associated goods, the car does rather struggle, particularly with steeper hills. i.e foot to the floor and can't get above 40 mph/the speedometer won't move, at all. Is this somewhat expected, I know its not a rocket ship! 1.6 petrol if anyone is interested.
Been averaging about 40-45 MPG on longer runs, 35 around town. Don't think that's too bad.
Edited by MarooBaroo on 29/03/2022 at 18:06
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On a separate note, under full load me, wife, 2x young kids and associated goods, the car does rather struggle, particularly with steeper hills. i.e foot to the floor and can't get above 40 mph/the speedometer won't move, at all. Is this somewhat expected, I know its not a rocket ship! 1.6 petrol if anyone is interested.
Been averaging about 40-45 MPG on longer runs, 35 around town. Don't think that's too bad.
In what gear can you not get above 40 mph? I would expect a 1.6 to manage even quite steep hills faster than that provided you made use of the full rev range.
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I think I was being a bit gentle, and changing up to 5th too soon (the dash wants you up to top gear ASAP) but do need to use 3rd/4th for hills. It’s plenty nippy enough for me with that in mind.
Got the car back a while ago, boot sorted - happy days.
I called Ford about the rear Ford badge, 32 for the part, £92 when including fitting! Any recommendations where I could buy one from that is ‘quality’ - failing that, I’ll just buy from Ford. The ‘safest’ way to get the badge off seems to be heat, but I don’t have a heat gun or cordless hair dryer. Is there a way to pry it off without the damage to paintwork? I’ve watched on YouTube a guy hack his panel to pieces with a Stanley knife, which defeats the purpose! Would a trim tool, be ok?
Edited by MarooBaroo on 18/04/2022 at 17:28
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I think I was being a bit gentle, and changing up to 5th too soon (the dash wants you up to top gear ASAP) but do need to use 3rd/4th for hills. It’s plenty nippy enough for me with that in mind.
Good to hear that, I had a courtesy car from the dealer a few months ago and the dash telling me to change up at ridiculous speeds really irritated me, another reason I don't want a new car with all the nanny state gizmos now fitted to (theoretically) reduce CO2 emissions/ improve mpg or to scrape another star from NCAP tests.
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Our 2012 Mazda 3 with the 103bhp 1.6 engine of the same family also needs revs on hills. Unless the OP has one of the gutsier 1.6 fitted to some Focusses then that is to be expected. That and middling fuel economy are among the few comprises with the otherwise excellent engine.
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Is there a way to pry it off without the damage to paintwork?
If as described elsewhere on this thread the badge is held on by double sided pads then I'd suggest using fine string - such as fishing wire to slide behind the badge if you can and then use to cut through the attachment material pulling string backwards/forwards. It was a tip I got from someone who changed the windscreen on my Superb and had to remove various attachments. Might not be possible though.
Edited by Big John on 19/04/2022 at 18:39
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