What I also found was that when I put the caliper back on with the piston back in, the wheel spun nice and freely. Then when I pumped the brakes too push the pads against the disc, the wheel was harder too turn as if the pads didn't fully release from the disc. Everything is moving smoothly and the brake hose test seemed fine so I'm really frustrated now. The disc seems straight and there was no visible run out or anything.

Yeah, there was no roughness when turning the wheel without the caliper on it was just a smooth action with slight resistance.

Really don't know what to do, don't want too keep throwing money away and wasting time when nothing seems too fix it and garages charge just too have a look so and they will probably say the same thing.

I would wait until you hear the bearing moan/whine then replace them, it sounds ok at the moment and could be years before the bearing wears to the extend of whining, may even last longer than your ownership depending how its treated

if it is brakes it will show up with wear so you will know in later miles done, but until then be inclined to leave it, as long as the brakes do the job then all is well...

Go your pads have return springs? If so were they replaced?

I've thought of fitting stronger ones and.or supplementing mine, to reduce brake drag

This site is made for people too ask about stuff. If you are annoyed I have put another one up then don't bother replying. Why waste your time just too put a stupid comment

They rely on free moving pads and the calliper piston seal which is square to act as return spring, it pulls the piston back just enough for the pads to draw back from the disc

as it was the pipe, it might be a good idea to replace the other side as it must have been collapsing on the inside, probably due to age and possibly old brake fluid ?

Hello mate, the actual hose was bent, the metal part of the flexi hose was bent slightly which must have caused a partial blockage which is why the wheel still turned bit had a small amount of pressure still applied.

the metal part is the joint between the rubber and metal connector before it screws into the caliper, which is unlikely to bend enough to force the rubber closed/cause partial blockage, at least I have never seen it happen- but doesnt mean it can`t -as anything can happen in mechanics

the rubber usually splits inside and makes a flap,(which cannot be seen from outside) according to pressure of the fluid, making a one way valve which remains partialy closed as the pressure is released which imo is whats happened and why I mentioned replacing the other side

Mine have (return?) springs, I don't know how important they are for operation, since the usual story is that its the distortion of the square cut seal that does the return biz, but I assume they contribute something.

Yes they do, they assist in wearing the pad at an angle because they only partially work on the part of pad they are attached to, and if you get a build up of dust on pad mountings or a bit tight, they pull on the outside of pad but not the inner, so the pad relys on the square seal to allow it to pull back

bearing in mind they only need a few thousands of an inch gap unless you have a distorted disc which unless seriuos will push pads back anyway.

They often rust away as well, and those that push on ie not the wire types are very often left off as they don`t always work....

Edited by Bolt on 31/05/2021 at 06:33