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Thank you all for your reply's I was expected to be told, not to touch etc, But i have watched a few videos and how to find the minimum thickness of the discs, I did read about filing down the lip, But not sure how soft the metal is.
Regards tyres, I will change them over, I would have added a photo of the wheel with the inner wear, But cannot add on HJ site.
Once i remove the wheels, I will check the thickness of the wear of the pads and disc but looking on the service report , Its showing amber and 8mm, So need to check the minimum for the pads.
Renault are noted for charging a arm and a leg, So i would never get them to do any work.
Regards the Promo Code, Thank you , i will have a look for a price
Thanks once again
Malc
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If that's 8mm of wear remaining they'll last another 30k+ miles at that rate, doubt there was 12mm on the pad when new.
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Most pads start their life with about 12 mm of friction material, and most mechanics suggest replacing them when they get to 3 or 4 mm
So looks like i just need discs
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It's not good practice to change discs without getting new pads as well, bedding in will be even worse than new pads on worn discs because there due to uneven wear you might have as little as 25% of the friction area in contact with the disc until they wear to new shape, plus those initial rubbing spots will overheat the disc at the point of contact and you'll end up with discs with slight wear grooves starting before they've even bedded in.
I wouldn't be changing those discs until at the very least those pads are worn out, but there's nothing to stop you removing the present pads and cleaning and lubing the calipers (good maintenance which almost no main dealers will carry out unless you request and pay extra) and whilst out you can inspect and measure the pads for yourself.
If the discs have little grub screws holding them to the hub, it wouldn't hurt to remove those screws and put them back in with a little coppaslip on the threads, be free then when you do need to reline the brakes as they can get stuck fast over time.
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Realistically, you probably don’t need to replace anything . All cars will show lipping on the discs during normal usage . You can replace pads without the discs, but not advisable to replace the discs alone .
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Thank you , I will measure the disc's when i change the wheels around
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Most pads start their life with about 12 mm of friction material, and most mechanics suggest replacing them when they get to 3 or 4 mm
I thought pads came with a channel cut in the centre ? When that disappears the pad needs renewing.
In the 'old days' when pads were largely asbestos they were too soft to erode the discs, which often lasted the life of the car. Now both discs and pads wear at similar rates, causing a lot of rusty dust which helps to make our alloys look grubby.
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Every so often I remove lipping on discs with a screwdriver. Stops MOT inspectors saying disks are worn...
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Every so often I remove lipping on discs with a screwdriver. Stops MOT inspectors saying disks are worn...
In my experience, NOTHING (except new extremely shiny disks, preferably ones that they just fitted themselves) stopped MOT inspectors saying disks were worn (I think "visible rust" was the phrase actually used) but maybe I was unlucky with my MOT inspectors.
I took to putting new disks (kept in a dry cupboard wrapped in polythene) on for the MOT then putting the old ones back on after it.
Ha! Gotcha! (but a hassle)
Latterly I use a crushed beer can applied to the disk motored in second gear to grind off the rust, then I very lightly apply sunflower oil to the rim and apply more aluminium.
Works well to limit more rusting,but the grinding was strongly disapproved of (for unspecified reasons) when I first posted about it on here.
https://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=110241
Incidentally, doesn't a lip prevent measurement of disk thickness with a standard vernier caliper?
I'd expect it to cause an overestimate.
Edited by edlithgow on 03/02/2020 at 17:35
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I thought pads came with a channel cut in the centre ? When that disappears the pad needs renewing.
In the 'old days' when pads were largely asbestos they were too soft to erode the discs, which often lasted the life of the car. Now both discs and pads wear at similar rates, causing a lot of rusty dust which helps to make our alloys look grubby.
Can't recall the last set i fitted that came with such a groove, probably a previous on the Merc and that has to be at least 10 years ago, didn't realise it was a wear indicator i thought it was to for somewhere brake dust could go on a large pad area during heavy braking.
Long lasting discs is why i've settled on Brembo parts, pads give a nice soft progressive pedal much like Ferodos of decades ago, and where i've fitted Brembo discs they show very little wear, in fact i'd say the wear rate on the family Aygo of both pads and discs is less than half what it was with genuine OE parts, better bite on the brakes to boot in my humble.
Edited by gordonbennet on 03/02/2020 at 12:48
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ATS Quoted £280 and a Local Body repair shop that does servicing , brakes and things will do the lot inc changing the wheels around for a total of £132, So getting it booked it, He said its the same disc's and pads that are on the clio now
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Personally, I think you wasting your money . Come 6 months time , the lip on the discs will be back .
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Personally, I think you wasting your money . Come 6 months time , the lip on the discs will be back .
So do I. Don't bother, the lip does no harm - it just interferes with extracting the pad when the time comes. And gives a garage an excuse for charging you.
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Personally, I think you wasting your money . Come 6 months time , the lip on the discs will be back .
So do I. Don't bother, the lip does no harm - it just interferes with extracting the pad when the time comes. And gives a garage an excuse for charging you.
And may undercut the pad a bit.
And a potential MOT fail
And prevents (I think) easy disk thickness measurement.
Your definition of no harm seems quite relaxed.
I wouldn't replace a lipped disk unless forced to.
I certainly wouldn't PAY SOMEONE to replace a lipped disk unless forced to, but that doesn't mean I'd do nothing.
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I thought pads came with a channel cut in the centre ? When that disappears the pad needs renewing.
I recall 'squealers'. A thin metal strip that was fitted to a pad and came into contact with the disc when the pad reached a low level. Whatever happened to them?
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Whatever happened to them , was they were too simple and they worked. Something that is not allowed on a modern car .
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I recall 'squealers'. A thin metal strip that was fitted to a pad and came into contact with the disc when the pad reached a low level. Whatever happened to them?
The Landcruiser has them, can't remember if the Forester has them or not, as said simple enough and they don't cause any issues, just a case or remembering to fit them on the side that wears fastest, usually the piston side on a sliding caliper.
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Apart from that, Front tyres are 4.6 and 5.2, So i will change them over with the rears which are 6.4 and 6.9, so very little wear on the rear.
Tyres start life with 7½ to 8mm tread depth, so your front ones are just about half way towards the limit (1.6mm IIRC). Many people prefer changing them sooner, but as a rough guess you should get to at least 35K before you need to change.
I find that FWD cars wear the fronts about 3 times as fast as the rears, but your driving habits may affect that. Swapping them round as John-F says, is worth doing. Otherwise there is a temptation to leave them on the rear wheels too long.
If you take the "Best tyres on the back" dictum seriously (which I do, a bit) you can't really do that in the UK, where the "best" tyres are probably the ones with the most tread, unless you do it rather often to keep them even..
I can in Taiwan, because in the dry season here, the "best" tyres are probably the ones with the least tread, so I can put them on the back for six months or so (which'll also even things up some.)
In the UK I suppose I'd run the fronts down to the limit, chuck them, move the back tyres to the front and get new(er) ones for the back.
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i have 22mm on the brake disc and the min thickness is 20mm
I have changed the wheels around , left front to right rear/ Right rear to left front and right front to left rear and left rear to right front, So should get even wear.
The front wheels where stuck to the hub and took some braking free, Looks like the wheels have never been taken off since new
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i have 22mm on the brake disc and the min thickness is 20mm
I have changed the wheels around , left front to right rear/ Right rear to left front and right front to left rear and left rear to right front, So should get even wear.
The front wheels where stuck to the hub and took some braking free, Looks like the wheels have never been taken off since new
Stuck wheels tells you exactly how much servicing has been done to your brakes during its specified maintenance at the main dealer, a grand total of none at all but now terribly important when they want 300+ nicker off you for work that doesn't appear to actually need doing at all whilst they avoided doing anything to prolong the life of your vehicle and its brakes up to this point.
There's a good reason main dealers are viewed with great suspicion here.
Edited by gordonbennet on 04/02/2020 at 16:28
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I have changed the wheels around , left front to right rear/ Right rear to left front and right front to left rear and left rear to right front, So should get even wear.
I presume therefore that your tyres are not directional. If you aren't sure, check the sidewalls for Rotation symbols - they may all be the wrong way round after your swap operation.
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Just checked and they are non directional, regards the wheel's, I always thought that the wheel's came off during a service,
Edited by malct on 05/02/2020 at 09:04
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Just checked and they are non directional, regards the wheel's, I always thought that the wheel's came off during a service,
I stand to be corrected here, but far as i know Toyota (and no doubt Lexus) are one of only few makers who specifies that every major service, so every other year or every 20k 'ish miles, the brakes would be stripped cleaned and lubed up, if that isn't done and the brakes only inspected then the wheels have no reason to be removed, most dealers just look at them from behind and spray brake cleaner about.
And yes when i had my Hilux the dealer did indeed do all that was required of real brake servicing, including removing the pads and the rear brake drums to check the shoes, all cleaned and lubed up, because i service my own cars properly i looked to see what they had done, all good.
By the way when you refitted your wheels, did you give a light wipe of Coppslip or similar onto the spigot point? that will prevent electrolytic corrosion between alloy wheel and steel hub, so they don't corrode on again.
Edited by gordonbennet on 05/02/2020 at 13:56
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Just checked and they are non directional, regards the wheels, I always thought that the wheels came off during a service,
The only reason to remove wheels during a routine service would be to work on the brakes, if that is on the schedule ?
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Regards Coppslip, I will need to buy some, So no i didn't
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I use CeraTec instead of Cappaslip... less prone to interfering with ABS systems.
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I use CeraTec instead of Cappaslip... less prone to interfering with ABS systems.
They tell me cheapo chassis grease does the job. MUCH cheaper than CeraTec or Copaslip.
Personally I clean up the (steel) faces with a beer can disk and a wee bit of vegetable oil and then sandwich aluminium foil or polythene sheet between them.
Wheels havnt come off yet, but maybe the grinding alone (without the oil) would be enough,
Edited by edlithgow on 06/02/2020 at 16:59
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I use CeraTec instead of Cappaslip... less prone to interfering with ABS systems.
They tell me cheapo chassis grease does the job. MUCH cheaper than CeraTec or Copaslip.
I use nothing. I wire-brush the opposing surfaces then rub them firmly with an oily rag. I also clean the wheel stud threads with said rag, leaving no visible oil. Never had a wheel stuck on.
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I use CeraTec instead of Cappaslip... less prone to interfering with ABS systems.
They tell me cheapo chassis grease does the job. MUCH cheaper than CeraTec or Copaslip.
I use nothing. I wire-brush the opposing surfaces then rub them firmly with an oily rag. I also clean the wheel stud threads with said rag, leaving no visible oil. Never had a wheel stuck on.
Well, you use oil, just not very much of it.
I might try that or chassis grease with the beer can next time.
The vegetable oil is really a slow-setting paint, and good for rust resistance, but its also a pretty strong glue so needs the film or foil to stop sticking.
Your experience suggests that might be more trouble than its worth.
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Re the reply March 2021 buried in the text above , discs really should not need replacing at 8200 miles . Was this a main dealer? - sounds like an excuse for a nice easy earner as not covered under a warranty.
If the lip is just a mm or 2 leave it til the pads are worn out at least . Garages are very good at ' will need changing soon' ,or 'could be dangerous' euphemisms for 'lets rip off the customer ' , the workshop is quiet this week. Even when needed , ring around a prices vary hugely. Mercedes at £400 plus vat ish really take the biscuit- got mine done for £120 inc vat
Unless you use it for track days pads should last 20 000 miles min and discs 40 000. You can probably see and feel the disc through the alloy wheel, and with a decent torch see the thickness of the pad material left.
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