There are professionals that will check an oil sample for you.
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There are professionals that will check an oil sample for you.
Samples of any liquids we send away for analysis at work (including hydrocarbons) cost way more than the cost of an oil change.
Only reason for having an analysis carried out was if you needed proof that a service had not been fully done of if you suspected a wrong grade had been used (don't even know if an analysis would show that).
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Last time I checked, it was about £15 for used engine oil analysis - but simply by changing oil at 10,000 miles instead of the "recommended" 20,000 miles I get to sleep easy at night and not worry that I'm pushing oil towards it's limit.
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Last time I checked, it was about £15 for used engine oil analysis.
Just looked and found this site. Even the most basic test is more than 5 litres of oil for my car.
www.theoillab.co.uk/fuel-testing?Pid=12&Sid=21www.theoillab.co.uk/fuel-testing?Pid=12&Sid=21" target="_blank">http://www.theoillab.co.uk/fuel-testing?Pid=12&Sid=21
Can see now why I have never considered it before.
Just do annual oil changes (or more if you do a higher mileage, simples.
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I think they are aimed at people who operate machinary on hour counters such as in quarries and want a ballpark figure for hours of use behore service as any hours out of use costs them £1000's.
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A toy for bored old men. If it gives them 15 minutes of joy, so what?
A fair cop, guvnor. Yes. I find it interesting. Sad, perhaps, but there it is.
I'm primarily interested because I seem to be getting a lot of metal in my oil, and I'd be interested to see how the gadget reacts to that.
I'm also interested because I recently found quite a large cache of oil (lots of different bottles, some sealed, some opened) in a shed on campus. I don't know what they were there for and havn't found anyone able to suggest anything.
Havn't tried to check the bar codes yet, but I’d guess they’d be between 5 and 10 years old. I'm tempted to use at least the sealed bottles.
A gizmo like this would be a way of keeping an eye on oil quality and perhaps getting an early warning if there is premature deterioration with the old oil.
I could also compare the oil bottles with each other and with a new bottle of the same type (where available. Some of them may be obsolete specs).
Differences would be off-putting.
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I'm primarily interested because I seem to be getting a lot of metal in my oil, and I'd be interested to see how the gadget reacts to that.
No gadget will help you if you are getting "a lot of metal in my oil". The only cure for that is an engine strip, find the cause and rebuild replacing any worn parts.
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I'm primarily interested because I seem to be getting a lot of metal in my oil, and I'd be interested to see how the gadget reacts to that.
No gadget will help you if you are getting "a lot of metal in my oil". The only cure for that is an engine strip, find the cause and rebuild replacing any worn parts.
Well, it may come to that, but it depends, to some extent, how one defines/quantifies “a lot” of metal, and I can’t.
Its been suggested to me that what I’m seeing is normal on a very old car. I rather doubt that, but I don’t know, and it would be of some interest if it was flagged as abnormal by this (or any other) gadget, or indeed by a commercial oil-analysis, though I’m unlikely to pay for one of those.
Its ferrous metal, which suggests to me that its most likely to be coming from the cams or the oil pump. My best guess was that this was excessive cam wear aggravated by the use of recent spec oils with lower levels of ZDDP anti-wear agent. The cams look OK, 4WIW, and a strip of the oil pump doesn’t reveal any problems either, from what I can see and measure with feeler gauges.
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I'm also interested because I recently found quite a large cache of oil (lots of different bottles, some sealed, some opened) in a shed on campus. I don't know what they were there for and havn't found anyone able to suggest anything.
Havn't tried to check the bar codes yet, but I’d guess they’d be between 5 and 10 years old. I'm tempted to use at least the sealed bottles.
Using oil of an unknown age from containers with no labels is insanity. With 5 litres of fully synthetic of 5w30 to the manufacturers spec costing me under £21 why risk damage.
Most manufacturers have very specific requirements now with regard to not only viscosity but what ACEA is required at the very minimum, some have their own specs. To use oil with no markings on the cans could cause untold damage.
If it is unused give the oil to someone with an oil fired boiler, they will probably be able to mix it in their tank and get some use from it.
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I'm also interested because I recently found quite a large cache of oil (lots of different bottles, some sealed, some opened) in a shed on campus. I don't know what they were there for and havn't found anyone able to suggest anything.
Havn't tried to check the bar codes yet, but I’d guess they’d be between 5 and 10 years old. I'm tempted to use at least the sealed bottles.
Using oil of an unknown age from containers with no labels is insanity. With 5 litres of fully synthetic of 5w30 to the manufacturers spec costing me under £21 why risk damage.
Most manufacturers have very specific requirements now with regard to not only viscosity but what ACEA is required at the very minimum, some have their own specs. To use oil with no markings on the cans could cause untold damage.
If it is unused give the oil to someone with an oil fired boiler, they will probably be able to mix it in their tank and get some use from it.
Well, yes, it would be insanity, if the containers were unlabelled, but since I didn't say they were, it seems to be a rather strange assumption.
I’d agree that this stuff might not be suitable for a current model of car, but then I’ve only ever accepted current car models as “gifts” (i.e. company cars.) This car is 26 years old.
Although the UK has rather high fuel prices, lubricant is relatively cheap there, perhaps because DIY oil changes are still relatively common?
About half of this oil (about 10L) is Yamaha 4T motorcycle oil (mineral) SJ 10W40, which should be OK in an (old) car. The other 10L is some Mobil (mineral) SG 10W40 and some China Petroleum Corporation stuff which IIRC is synthetic SN 5W30.
“Hot” viscosities are thus a bit higher than the original 10W30 spec, but I don’t see that as much of an issue except possibly for fuel consumption.
I don’t see the age as much of an issue either, though I could be wrong, which is why I’d want to keep an eye on it in use.
There’s also about 6L lot of (allegedly) synthetic 2-stroke from an (allegedly) german manufacturer which I havn't looked up yet.
I do have a 2-stroke motorcycle, but I probably wouldn't use it in that since I'm less sure of the long-term stability of 2T, (since 2T is a total loss system) and a seized engine could kill me.
A 2T scooter wouldn't be quite so scary, since I'm told the auto-trans will disconnect quick enough to save you.
I’d probably use up the opened stuff as motorcycle chain lube or chassis rust inhibition, though there’s rather a lot of it for that.
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Oil is relatively cheap, Especially if you can buy it in a sale. I recently bought some GM spec oil during the winter sales - 4 litres for £9 and it has only just been blended a couple of weeks ago so still has the full 5 year shelf life.
I can't understand why anyone would want to use some old/unknown oil in anything. There is only one possible use I can think of for it, Mix it with some creosote and paint your garden fence with it or use it on your garden gate hinges.
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Oil is relatively cheap, Especially if you can buy it in a sale. I recently bought some GM spec oil during the winter sales - 4 litres for £9 and it has only just been blended a couple of weeks ago so still has the full 5 year shelf life.
I can't understand why anyone would want to use some old/unknown oil in anything. There is only one possible use I can think of for it, Mix it with some creosote and paint your garden fence with it or use it on your garden gate hinges.
Well, as I said before, lubricating oil is more expensive here, and this isn't "unknown" oil. The brands are well known and the grades should be ok, and perhaps better than current grades (with possibly compromised performance to avoid catalyst poisoning) for this application.
I don't, however, know how old it is. I'd guess between 5 and 10 years.
I don't know what you know, of course. I don't know what the oil companies know either, because that's mostly secret.
I particular, I don't know of any evidence that there's anything wrong with 10-year old oil in a sealed container. It may be out there, but I havn't seen it, and I've looked.
If you have seen any such evidence, I'd be interested in the info.
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Got metal in the oil, get a sample tested. The basic test does a spectrographic analysis. That will point at what is wearing eg bore, bearings etc.
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Got metal in the oil, get a sample tested. The basic test does a spectrographic analysis. That will point at what is wearing eg bore, bearings etc.
Like I said, its ferrous metal.
I THINK that implies that it could be coming (in rough order of probability) from the cams, the oil pump, or the crankshaft, with perhaps the piston rings as a trace source.
It wont be bores or bearings because they aren't ferrous.
(They could of course be wearing as well, and probably are, but most of what I'm seeing seems to be ferrous)
I don't know if a standard oil-analysis could distinguish between these three sources, but I'd bet not.
It MIGHT be possible if the detailed metallurgy of the three sources was different, and they could resolve those differences, and they knew what they were for this particular car.
Edited by edlithgow on 26/01/2014 at 09:13
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Does it matter where the metal is coming from?
The engine needs a complete strip down, full examination and reconditioning as appropriate.
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Analysis would help with quantifying the metal(s) present in the oil. The level may or may not be indicative of wear, or maybe of contamination, when the oil was last changed.
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Analysis would help with quantifying the metal(s) present in the oil. The level may or may not be indicative of wear, or maybe of contamination, when the oil was last changed.
When I stripped the oil pump, I found that a casting void in its base, where it bolts to the block, was full of metallic sludge, maybe 20-30 ml.
If oil (and sludge) can get into such places, it can presumably be washed out again, especially with the high detergency oil (Mobil Delvac MX 15W40) I’m currently using.
I havn’t seen this discussed, but, if this isn’t the only void space in the engine, it implies that contamination in an oil isn’t necessarily the result of wear during the service life of the oil. Some of it could be “historical”.
This potentially complicates the interpretation of oil analyses results.
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My post was probably a little out of order as I'm obviously out of my depth here. After all, I've only been a diesel technician/diagnostician/maintenance manager on industrial plant (1.5mW and up) for 25 years, before moving on to new challenges.
Spectrographic oil analysis is just one of many condition monitoring systems available, and it is widely used.
I can assure you that finding traces of metals (some of which can be identified as to their probable origin by trace markers - piston rings aren't made of the same material as camshafts, oil pump elements, vac pump vanes and so on) would not on its own cause me to order the stripping down and examination of an engine. EG. If I found traces of copper, tin, lead or antimony I would be looking for a journal failure, not RE bearing wear or oil pump failure, similarly chrome moly van steel would have me looking elsewhere and chrome nickel likewise.
The thought of stripping an engine down on such a whim is usually the preserve of land rover anoraks.
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My post was probably a little out of order as I'm obviously out of my depth here. After all, I've only been a diesel technician/diagnostician/maintenance manager on industrial plant (1.5mW and up) for 25 years, before moving on to new challenges.
Spectrographic oil analysis is just one of many condition monitoring systems available, and it is widely used.
I can assure you that finding traces of metals (some of which can be identified as to their probable origin by trace markers - piston rings aren't made of the same material as camshafts, oil pump elements, vac pump vanes and so on) would not on its own cause me to order the stripping down and examination of an engine. EG. If I found traces of copper, tin, lead or antimony I would be looking for a journal failure, not RE bearing wear or oil pump failure, similarly chrome moly van steel would have me looking elsewhere and chrome nickel likewise.
The thought of stripping an engine down on such a whim is usually the preserve of land rover anoraks.
As I said (perhaps I wasn't clear) I imagine it can be done, in an industrial context, where the equipment monitored justifies the effort and cost.
I do rather doubt that the standard 20 quid or so oil analysis marketted to punters offers sufficient detail to distinguish between different sources of steel wear particles. The ones I've seen don't, though it might be available to special order, at greater cost.
While I'm interested, I doubt this would be justified for my 26 year-old banger.
You seem to be offended that I'm disagreeing with you and doubting your credentials. I had no knowledge of your credentials until you posted them, and I can't tell if I'm disagreeing with you or not, since, on the one hand, you seem to be advocating oil analysis, and on the other, saying that you wouldn't act on the results with an engine strip. .
Why, then, do the analysis? Seems to be a mixed message.
I have an anorak but no Landrover (though I'd quite like one).
I have no current plans to strip the engine on the strength of these concens because I'm unconvinced I'd be able to diagnose the fault (if any) if I did. I've stripped the oil pump and examined the cams and they both looked OK to me, but I'm no expert and have limited measurement capabilities.
I might attempt to get a look at the crankshaft bearings/journals next time I have the sump off, which'll be soon because it has an oil leak I'll have to fix.
I also don't currently know if local repair would be possible or at what cost. Its very difficult to get anything like this done here because of the language problem, and a bling-bound, no maintenance (certainly no DIY maintence) culture. This means, for example, that parts are likely to be difficult to obtain
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They should market it to oil companies they have been spending millions of dollars on labs and chemists to think they could get the same result for a few pounds.What a load of rubbish people will buy anything with the right amount of advertising.
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Collos25 wrote: " people will buy anything with the right amount of advertising"
Too true. Basic flaw of consumer capitalism. Punters.
Punters given, for example, to predjudiced nonsensical knee-jerk reactions to technical questions, without any facts or evidence at all.
I don't think people are going to buy THIS gizmo though. I think they'll go bust, because even if it operates as they claim, it doesn't do anything that punters are interested in.
And its got hardly any advertising, rather unlike those oil companies you mention.
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Personally I would like to know why some posters on here think the oil and car makers are ripping us motorists off. When I bought my first car, a 1964 Ford Anglia the schedule included 1000 mile or monthly checks, a 3 monthly or 3000 mile lubrication service (including oil change) and a 6 month or 6000 mile major service. The schedule even included a decoke at a specific mileage.
40 or so years later a majority of cars need an oil change annually or 10,000 miles and a major sservice every 2 or 3 years.
So by reducing the required maintenance by over 70% they are ripping us off, I don't think so.
OK, we all hate spending money but with todays labour costs just imagine what we would be paying for a 1964 service schedule.
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thunderbird wrote: "Personally I would like to know why some posters on here think the oil and car makers are ripping us motorists off."
Basic principle of consumer capitalism: They are supposed to rip you off.
If they don't rip you off, they are not doing their job.
Doesn't mean there's no progress, but its not all roses.
I've heard of LOTS of examples of planned obsolescence, particularly from Ford.
I've also been told (by a professional mechanic here who I tend to believe) that the longer service intervals (particularly on German cars, which here tend to die young after an expensive period of terminal care) are a marketing gambit and significantly reduce service life.
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I've also been told (by a professional mechanic here who I tend to believe) that the longer service intervals (particularly on German cars, which here tend to die young after an expensive period of terminal care) are a marketing gambit and significantly reduce service life.
I ran a German car for well over 100,000 miles doing an oil change every 10,000 miles. Only used the manufacturer specified mineral 10w/40 oil, nothing special. Car was in perfect condition mechanically when I sold it at 7 years old. It would have been 25 years old this May but I think it finally died last November.
With the modern fully synth oils there is no reason why oil change intervals cannot be increased, whether you want to do so is another matter especially when oil is not that expensive, at £21 for 5 litres for mine and the wifes cars its peanuts compared to the rest of our motoring expenses.
Most cars are killed by their owners not doing the basic maintenance needed or ignoring small faults which if left have a habit of becoming serious faults.
Metal particles in your oil is not a small fault, its serious.
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So you're talking about a late 80's German car? I'm told they don't make them like that any more.
When you bought your Anglia, I'd guess the average lifespan of a car was about 10 years, and was probably limited by chassis corrosion.
Half a century later, with all the progress we've seen, the average age of a car is.....Hmm. I don't know.
I think I tried to find out a while ago and couldn't, but I'd bet money that it isn't much different, yet they don't generally die of rust, and they never did generally die of engine wear.
What do they die of? Again, I don't know. It would be interesting to see an analysis, but I'd bet a lot of it is failure of proprietary unrepairable electrickery, cats, and unobtainable spares. Built-in obsolescence, in other words.
SOMETHING must be more fragile, otherwise theres no reason for cars not to go over 25 years, and they generally don't.
Of course, as you say, a lot of it is down to that basic flaw, the punter.
The punter is, on average, a prat, so consumers get, as a group, perhaps better cars than they deserve.
The success of the UK Govts shameful scrappage scheme (from a UK Govt that I hear has just extended the tax exemption on classics??) gives some clue as to what a silly, schizophrenic set of bling-bunnies they are (I think I'm covered on that one).
But it could be worse.
And it is. Take China, for example.
Don't want to? Don't blame you.
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I believe the average age of scrapping cars in the UK has reduced, over several decades, from 14 years to 12 - this despite the better rust-proofing. This is mainly due to the economics of repair along with the changed attitude that youngsters no longer want to start with an "old banger".
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"Rip-off" is just an emotive name for "profit".
Just think how bad things would be if firms didn't make profits - they certainly wouldn't employ all those people so much more strain on Unemployment Benefit - sales would be much lower so far less govt revenue from VAT - firms only pay tax on profits so even less govt revenue.
The net result would be 50% income tax for the few people left working.
In reality, there's no such thing as excessive profit - if a product/price is excessively profitable then competition steps in to sell a similar product cheaper, but still make a profit.
In the modern world, every economic model except consumerism has failed - even the Viking system of old failed eventually, ie pillage!
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Does it matter where the metal is coming from?
The engine needs a complete strip down, full examination and reconditioning as appropriate.
I must say I'm surprised to see such enthusiasm for an engine strip-down coming from a UK discussion board. Much more what I'd expect from the US.
When I was in the UK, an engine strip would have been FAR beyond most amateur mechanics comfort zone, and the cost of getting it done commercially would have been completely uneconomic for the vast majority of cars.
I'd doubt that's changed, though perhaps the shameful UK Govt scrappage scheme means that the disposable banger concept is no longer so viable.
I've done some fairly major spannering when I was younger, and wouldn't completely rule out a DIY engine strip, though I'm not very keen or confident.
IF I could find someone I'd trust to do it (not that simple in the Yook, very difficult here) labour charges are much lower here so a professional job would be much cheaper, BUT this car has zero market value. Its worth something to me, because no-cat simple manual gearbox cars are a scarce resource, but it'd be very easy to get into silly money territory.
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Re motor oil shelf-life, I found this, which is sort-of relevant, in a negative sort of way.
www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/172/lubricant-st...e
Its titled "Lubricant Storage Life Limits - Industry Needs a Standard " but if you read it you might reasonably conclude that "industry doesn't need a standard", since they don't appear to have one, nor any basis for one.
Like most "pitches", what it doesn't say is as significant as what it does. There is absolutely no evidence reported here for on-shelf deterioration of motor oils. Instead, its served up as a ready-cooked "given" with a side order of "The sky is falling" Chicken-Little panic-salad.
They survey industry recommendations. I find Table 4 especially instructive (recommended shelf life for indoor storage at 20C) though to be fair it’s a rather extreme example.
Major oil company C: 10-30W Motor Oil (mineral) 1 YEAR
Major oil company C: 10-30W Motor Oil (PAO) 1 YEAR:
Major oil company D: 10-30W Motor Oil (mineral) 1 YEAR
Major oil company D: 10-30W Motor Oil (PAO) 1 YEAR:
Independant oil company B: 10-30W Motor Oil (mineral) Virtually unlimited *
Independant oil company B: 10-30W Motor Oil (PAO) : Virtually unlimited
Independant oil company C: 10-30W Motor Oil (mineral) : Infinite
Independant oil company C: 10-30W Motor Oil (PAO) : Infinite
1 year (!) isn’t very long, and 1 year to infinity is a pretty wide range.
IF the 1 year has a basis in fact, it could mean that the major oil companies massive (but of course secret) testing of their latest oils, extending over several decades, has told them that their oil is particularly fragile.
OR it could be that their general knowledge of the chemistry of their product makes them think it might be particularly fragile, though its odd that the PAO, plausibly believed to be more stable in an engine, is just as fragile on the shelf.
OR it could be that they wanted to cover their big fat corporate ass, and pulled the smallest number out of it that they thought they could get away with.
Perhaps I'm too cynical, but I've found its actually quite difficult to be TOO cynical, and often quite an effort to be cynical enough.
Edited by edlithgow on 01/02/2014 at 08:13
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Major companies C & D, stated 1 year for PAO oil (fully-synthetic) - that's presumbably in a sealed container in a benign environment.
But open the container, put the oil in an engine for up to 2 years in temperature cycles over 100 C and exposure to acids and other toxic materials and it's ok ?
Something isn't right when you make that sort of comparison.
Edited by RT on 01/02/2014 at 08:29
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Well yes. Its b******s. That was rather my point.
I'm not claiming this as PROOF that oil doesn't have a shelf life, of course, since it clearly isn't, but it does tend to reinforce my scepticism.
This is just about recommendations, which are quite likely to be an arbitary number rather than research-based. I havn't seen any reports of formal research on this.
Anecdotally, and 4WIW, I've seen a post somewhere by a retired Mobil oil technician to the effect that the (5-year for Mobil) shelf life recommendation came from the marketing department, but 20+ year old oil tested exactly the same as when new. I don't know what tests he was talking about, though.
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I was adding scorn to the report, not your post.
If I had some 40-year old oil in my garage in a sealed can, I think it would probably still be within it's original specification - problem would be that every car I've had in the last 30 years would have needed a more up-to-date specification so I'd still end up throwing it away.
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That'll apply to most people/cars, and I suppose it may be one of the reasons for the short shelf life recommendations, so they don't have to confuse the alphabetically challenged with API grades, etc.
Doesn't aply to my car, though, since API SD was originally specified, and none of my old oily plunder stuff is anything like as old a spec as that.
That said, I think you have to go a rather long way back before they claim actual damage will result from obsolete spec oils in even a new car, though performance might not be optimal and the catalyst life might be shortened.
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