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Engine oil - hillman

One of HJs articles in the Telegraph On-Line 5 Jan 2014, Peugeot 3008 - Petrol or Diesel, advises changing the oil every 10,000 miles or yearly. Does anybody leave that long between oil changes ? - that is, if they want to keep the car.

I've read somewhere that modern oils don't allow the engine to 'bed in' and thus need regular topping up and this will mitigate the lack of changes. At the end of the year the oil must be very dirty.

Engine oil - RT

Many modern cars have 15,000 or 20,000 mile change intervals recommended by their manufacturer so I don't see that 10,000 is excessive in any way. Mine goes 13,000 as it's on 20,000 miles or 1 year.

Oil to the latest ACEA standards, which all current diesels have to use to avoid fouling their DPFs, is very high standard.

Engine oil - Andrew-T

One facet of this discussion is the unspoken one saying 'while I own this vehicle I will do minimal maintenance to satisfy the warranty conditions, as I don't plan to keep it any longer than that'.

We all know that an engine will last better the more often the oil is changed, but there is clearly a balance point where more frequent changes bring no benefit. Skidpan and John F clearly have different views on where that point is. My view (an old one) is that a vehicle which does mostly short runs - so the oil never gets hot - needs many more changes. If your car only does long runs - every day, or only once a month - changing oil every 3K or even 5k should be fine, even if that may take 4 years.

And I really don't like the idea of long oil change intervals for diesels, which quite clearly pollute the oil from the word go.

Edited by Andrew-T on 07/01/2014 at 09:59

Engine oil - John F

One of HJs articles in the Telegraph On-Line 5 Jan 2014, Peugeot 3008 - Petrol or Diesel, advises changing the oil every 10,000 miles or yearly. Does anybody leave that long between oil changes ?

Longer. Takes me over 10yrs to do 10K in my 30+yr old TR7 and two years in my 15yr old Audi. Tens of thousands of gullible Aunt Minnies are fleeced by garages doing polluting and unnecessary annual oil changes. Oil doesn't go 'off.'

If you want a clean engine, ensure the sump base slopes down to the drain plug by judicious use of a trolley jack or ramps, and leave overnight to drip. Old oil and its suspended rubbish sticks to the sides of the engine like tomato ketchup sticks to the sides of the bottle. In the morning it will be clear. Your new oil will look honey coloured for ages if you do this.

Engine oil - skidpan

Longer. Takes me over 10yrs to do 10K in my 30+yr old TR7 and two years in my 15yr old Audi. Tens of thousands of gullible Aunt Minnies are fleeced by garages doing polluting and unnecessary annual oil changes. Oil doesn't go 'off.'

For pities sake JohnF just give up with your stupid car maintenance information. I do under 2000 miles a year in my classic but I still change it every year. it costs nothing as a percentage of my total costs.

As far as my road car oil changes I have been using the manufacturers recomendations as long as I have been driving. That has been 10,000 miles or a year since the mid 80's with only a couple of exceptions and I have never had an issue. Only ever needed to top up a couple of cars in the first 10,000 miles and never after that.

Oil is very different today to the 20w50 stuff we bought in the 60's and 70's. It does an absolutely brilliant job over the longer intervals but it still needs changing regularly even if you do a small mileage. That is why distance and time intervals are specified.

Engine oil - hillman

I read somewhere, and other BRs will comment on this, that low mileages equate to short runs and condensation forms in the engine. That leads to yellow/white emulsion. My expert uses a flushing oil during the oil change procedure when he sees that. BTW, I've never fully accepted the 10 / 12,000 miles oil change argument, thinking that it is for fleet use when the fleet managers sell the car on afterwards - having reduced their maintenance cost to almost nothing.

Engine oil - nortones2
HGV fleets run their oil for distances like 60k miles. The oil is changed when indicators like TBN and soot levels show it to be necessary, and not until. Annual change for cars on low mileage or 10k for "normal" mileage seems perfectly acceptable. The OP is not from the USA, is he?
Engine oil - gordonbennet
HGV fleets run their oil for distances like 60k miles. The oil is changed when indicators like TBN and soot levels show it to be necessary, and not until. Annual change for cars on low mileage or 10k for "normal" mileage seems perfectly acceptable. The OP is not from the USA, is he?

HGV's have different filtration systems though with an oil centrifuge to help clean the oil of nasties. cleanoilservices.com/centrifuges.html

Edited by gordonbennet on 06/01/2014 at 10:42

Engine oil - nortones2

Some may. HGV's, IIRC, use by-pass rather than full flow filters. This allows a more stringent level of filtration. But the fact remains that the oil is still in good working order for a long time, if soot and other contaminants are controlled. Here is a blurb from one of the well known labs.: tinyurl.com/km4kt4h

Engine oil - gordonbennet

Worth looking on YouTube at filter comparisons, some (mainly in America) mechanics have taken a selection of the typical oil filters sold, cut them open to show exactly whats inside, its a bit of an eye opener.

Engine oil - nortones2

Yes, indeed! A fascinating subject. I have a VAG vehicle with 1.8TSI engine: I don't think I should use the extended service interval given we only do a limited mileage. Even though we (or me at least!) avoid short runs, I think the turbo needs clean oil, so an annual change seems to make sense, using a VW 504 oil. Fuchs, as it happens. At least that is what I give to the dealer....

Engine oil - skidpan

The variable/extended service intervals are only for people doing more than 10,000 miles a year and a different higher quality oil is used. My 1.4 TSi is expected to do about 8,000 miles a year and is on the 10,000/12 month service schedule.

Overall the costs are very similar, the main saving is the time the car is at the dealers which can be an issue to high mileage users.

Any deviation from VW's recomendation will possible cause issues should you have a warranty claim.

Engine oil - nortones2

It came with the variable service set. As they do not know our mileage I had to be specific about the annual service, otherwise it may have gone for quite a while. We could have left it to the on-board gadget to decide, I suppose. I continue to use the same oil as the variable service regime - on the basis that it outperfoms VW 502 oils according to the Lubrizol charts. But that is only a personal opinion based on no real evidence:)

Edited by nortones2 on 06/01/2014 at 12:38

Engine oil - RT

The variable/extended service intervals are only for people doing more than 10,000 miles a year and a different higher quality oil is used. My 1.4 TSi is expected to do about 8,000 miles a year and is on the 10,000/12 month service schedule.

Overall the costs are very similar, the main saving is the time the car is at the dealers which can be an issue to high mileage users.

Any deviation from VW's recomendation will possible cause issues should you have a warranty claim.

I take issue with the use of different quality oil - I've never seen two different specifications given in a handbook dependent on mileage interval.

The Vauxhall and Hyundai we have in the family both have 20,000 change intervals - in practice we change both at 10,000 but it has to be the same oil spec.

Engine oil - nortones2

Handbook for Yeti page 236 is quite specific on this. Petrol 1.8 Flexible service: VW504 00. Petrol 1.8 fixed service : VW 502 00.

Lubrizol comparison chart: tinyurl.com/b68cp27

Engine oil - skidpan

I take issue with the use of different quality oil - I've never seen two different specifications given in a handbook dependent on mileage interval.

The Vauxhall and Hyundai we have in the family both have 20,000 change intervals - in practice we change both at 10,000 but it has to be the same oil spec.

Pasted from the service book in my Leon

Petrol without flexible service interval VW 502 00

Petrol with flexible service interval (LongLife) VW 504 00

VAG specify the same oil for current diesels regardless of interval because it has the be the same DPF specific variety.

Another example, the wifes Ceed has a DPF and 1yr/20,000 mile intervals, the oil specified is fully synthetic C3. If the car had been delivered 1 month earlier it would have had no DPF and a 1yr/10,000 mile service interval and would have used B3 Semi synthetic.

Engine oil - gordonbennet

You have a sensible dealer there, the Toyota dealer was also quite happy for me to supply my bulk bought Millers full synthetic at service time for the Hilux, with a sump capacity of 7.5 litres it made quite a saving and excellent quality.

Sensible view of servicing too if i may say, i'm quite convinced that the often short lives of turbos (esp Diesels whcih should last life of engine) in some well regarded makes is no coincidence, with extended oil service intervals playing their part...quite apart from not allowing the turbo to warm up and cool slightly before starting and after hard use.

Engine oil - nortones2

Very kind of you to say so. Gordon Lamb Skoda, of Chesterfield. They seem very good.

Engine oil - bathtub tom

Had a centrifugal filter on an old Fiat 850. Took it apart to clean it (I was being nosey, to find out what was inside) and found a 5mm layer around the outside of similar consistency to a pencil eraser. Don't know if that was there to embed particles or if it was muck that had been caught.

Engine oil - gordonbennet

I expect the average driver covering 12k a year is doing some reasonably long runs, which will help the oil to keep clean as everything is getting hot.

The driver covering 5k a year is probably doing a lot of short runs.

In both cases in most modern cars i expect an annual change is sufficient for most people, bearing in mind how long most people keep their cars, i also expect most people don't service their own cars so annual is probably costs effective for them.

Where the water muddies is for those of us who keep our cars a long time, and quite possibly either service our own or have an indy or make specialist to do an annual service at MOT time, thats my situation by the way.

When my mileage was higher in other cars i would slip a half yearly oil change in myself as well as my indies annual, now my mileage has dropped his annual services are adequate IMO @ around 7k miles (12k recommended IIRC).

Mind you i trust my garage, i know he uses Fuchs full synthetic oil and genuine filters and the service is done properly including full brake strip outs, transmisson oil changes when required etc.

I also wouldn't go past 10k miles without an oil change under any circumstances whatever the maker recommended (to attract lease and hire companies), but then i'm a dinosaur apparently.

Engine oil - madf

We keep our cars for long periods - decades normally - and subject at least one of them to stop/start journeys where in winter they never ever warm up. Average journey may be 1.5miles.

So every year for 30 years oil and filter change. DIY so costs buttons - £30 for fully synthetic and OE oil filter.

Guess what - no , zero, engine issues in 30 years .

I treat any advice to prolong oil chnages on lttle used cars as muppetry as the costs saved could be offset by one disaster - by a factor of 50 plus.

No doubt the person recommending such a routine does not believe in house insurance on the grounds he has never had a fire or an an accident. (and can we put any faith on a poster on a forum with such outlandish claims?)

It's as much insurance as much as maintenance.

Edited by madf on 06/01/2014 at 11:25

Engine oil - corax

Mind you i trust my garage, i know he uses Fuchs full synthetic oil

Good oil. I use the same in my car, changed every 5-6000 miles.

I drive at a swift cruise most of the time but if I get a move on I like to know that the turbo is protected under all conditions.

Engine oil - FP

"For pities sake JohnF just give up with your stupid car maintenance information."

I see the spirit of friendly tolerance is alive and well in the BR in 2014. Of course, it's Skidpan, who probably wouldn't react too well if someone else described a comment of his as stupid.

Engine oil - skidpan

"For pities sake JohnF just give up with your stupid car maintenance information."

I see the spirit of friendly tolerance is alive and well in the BR in 2014. Of course, it's Skidpan, who probably wouldn't react too well if someone else described a comment of his as stupid.

So you think that JohnF is correct telling people that changing their oil, brake fluid, tyres is a waste of money.

If you do you are just as stupid as JohnF.

Engine oil - Andrew-T

So you think that JohnF is correct telling people that changing their oil, brake fluid, tyres is a waste of money.

If you do you are just as stupid as JohnF.

So you're still at it, slinging barbs at anyone, from your unassailable position of absolute certainty. Opinions are just that, but of course yours are irrefutable fact.

I'm with FP here. Modern oil is hard-wearing stuff, and as long as your engine gets fully warmed through whenever you use your car, you needn't throw it away (the oil, not the car) every 12 months.

Edited by Andrew-T on 06/01/2014 at 12:44

Engine oil - FP

"So you think that JohnF is correct..."

Did I say that? Did I?

I was objecting to your lack of manners. I have no view at all on JohnF's post. Now I'm beginning to wonder, Skidpan, if it's not just manners you're lacking.

Not that I would go as far as to call you stupid, of course, even if you deserved it.

Edited by FP on 06/01/2014 at 14:47

Engine oil - Andrew-T

< For pities sake JohnF just give up with your stupid car maintenance information. I do under 2000 miles a year in my classic but I still change it every year. it costs nothing as a percentage of my total costs. >

Like John F, you are welcome to change your oil as often or as rarely as you like, Skidpan. If his oil stays honey-like for years, good for him. As is often said, modern oil is good for high mileages, which is why I change my diesel oil every 10K, even though the maker suggests 12K, which I also think is too long - it gets black within a week.

Seems fine to me to change every 3K if you only do 1500 a year. My 'toy' car does about that, but when it goes out it is always for long runs.

Edited by Andrew-T on 06/01/2014 at 12:30

Engine oil - John F

< For pities sake JohnF just give up with your stupid car maintenance information.

Nice to see a bit of intelligent debate apart from skidpan's insulting use of the word 'stupid'. [ Just for the record I had 'A' levels in Chemistry and Physics by the age of 17]

Of course oil is much better than the old 20-50 gunge - that's why it doesn't need changing every year. And the extraordinary comment above about house insurance merits no response.

My 30yr old TR7 engine continues to run sweetly [admittedly only about 70,000m] - the head has never been off and it uses hardly any oil. Our old Passat was still running well at over 240,000m when we got rid of it - cheap semi-synthetic oil every 10-12k or so.

No one so far has explained exactly why oil needs to be replaced annually. I still contend that if you only do 2000m a year it will still be doing its job after 5yrs. So instead of disagreeable invective I would appreciate a scientific argument why this should not be so. Just because 'it says so in the brochure' is not a satisfactory argument.

Engine oil - mss1tw
No one so far has explained exactly why oil needs to be replaced annually. I still contend that if you only do 2000m a year it will still be doing its job after 5yrs. So instead of disagreeable invective I would appreciate a scientific argument why this should not be so. Just because 'it says so in the brochure' is not a satisfactory argument

If you do long enough journeys to get the engine thoroughly warmed then I err on the side of agreeing you...but would change annually, anyway!

Engine oil - edlithgow

Of course oil is much better than the old 20-50 gunge - that's why it doesn't need changing every year.

Though generally true, this is probably an oversimplification. There are quite a lot of reports that recent spec. oils, formulated to avoid long-term poisoning of the exhaust catalyst, have compromised performance, particularly in relation to older cars with flat tappet engines.

The evidence is largely anecdotal (one wouldn't expect any relevant research to be published by the oil industry, after all ) but there's too much of it to dismiss out of hand.

This now also applies to recent spec diesel oils, formulated to protect the exhaust treatment systems, and there are apparently even cases where diesel engine manufacturers specifically prohibit the use of recent spec oils

discussed, for example here: www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

Since I drive an old car, and change the oil quite (probably too) often, I buy the oldest spec. oil I can find. Lately this has been API SJ (Straight 40W China Petroleum Corporation in summer, Mobil Delvac 15W-40 in not-summer, both mineral) which perhaps isn't old enough, and the Delvac, though a quality oil, is optimised for diesels.

I can get 20/50 motorcycle oil in the reassuringly obsolete SG grade,( though its a bit more expensive and won't have friction modifiers because of possible wet-clutch effects), so I might graduate to that.

One step forward, two steps back.

That's progress.

Engine oil - RT

Of course oil is much better than the old 20-50 gunge - that's why it doesn't need changing every year.

Though generally true, this is probably an oversimplification. There are quite a lot of reports that recent spec. oils, formulated to avoid long-term poisoning of the exhaust catalyst, have compromised performance, particularly in relation to older cars with flat tappet engines.

The evidence is largely anecdotal (one wouldn't expect any relevant research to be published by the oil industry, after all ) but there's too much of it to dismiss out of hand.

This now also applies to recent spec diesel oils, formulated to protect the exhaust treatment systems, and there are apparently even cases where diesel engine manufacturers specifically prohibit the use of recent spec oils

discussed, for example here: www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

...

One step forward, two steps back.

That's progress.

I find it difficult to take seriously any oil advice coming from the USA, as carbibles is, when they're so backward in their attitudes to oil - eg just use basic mineral oil changed every 3,000 miles - and the API standard is simply a minimum standard

Engine oil - edlithgow

I just picked carbibles as an example. There are a lot of reports of wiped cams on new spec oils (with lowered levels of ZDDP) out there. It seems to be a particular issue with older technology high performance engines, such as "muscle cars" and air-cooled Porsches. Such cars are probably much rarer in the UK.

While there are, of course, a fair amount of good 'ole boys shootn' the semi-literate s*** comin from the USA, theres also an active, hands-on, technically aware car culture, which I'd say is fast becoming the preserve of an oily anachronism minority in the UK.

"Backward" is a rather general, blanket criticism, and doesn't really address this issue in any meaningful way.

It tacitly assumes that newer is better, but clearly that is not always the case. (consider, for example, the similar sorry saga of diesel particulate filters). Old cars are of negligable commercial interest to major oil companies so I wouldn't expect them to devote much effort to thier protection.

While synthetic oils are inherently superior, the only comparative data on wear rates that I've seen didn't show any significant difference. This data came from the USA, but I don't see that as any reason to dismiss it.

Engine oil - Avant

John F is entitled to his opinion, whether you agree with it or not. Please do NOT call people or their views stupid just because you disagree with them.

John's final para goes some way to explaining why his theory works - as does his TR7 almost certainly running more sweetly than it did when it was new.

I would have deleted the para with the word 'stupid' in it but there's been quite a lot of justified reaction which wouldn't then make sense. Apart from the 'stupid' comment, this is a discussion well worth having.

Engine oil - memyself-aye

A friend of mine argues that his wife's Ford Ka, now four years old does not need an oil change as it has only done 6,000 miles - all on very short runs. "The oil doesn't know how old it is" is his justification...

He works for JLR by the way.

Engine oil - madf

Anecdotes about what others do is not evidence :-)

Engine oil - mss1tw

He works for JLR by the way.

As a...?

Engine oil - madf

Cleaner?

:-)

Engine oil - John F

John F is entitled to his opinion, whether you agree with it or not. Please do NOT call people or their views stupid just because you disagree with them.

John's final para goes some way to explaining why his theory works - as does his TR7 almost certainly running more sweetly than it did when it was new.

I would have deleted the para with the word 'stupid' in it but there's been quite a lot of justified reaction which wouldn't then make sense. Apart from the 'stupid' comment, this is a discussion well worth having.

Thank you, Avant. It is shameful that those who cannot provide a scientific argument against my assertion that oil will work perfectly well for a number of years resort to either insults or accusations of 'trouble making'. I suppose it is a contention that the garage industry would not wish to debate.

Engine oil - skidpan

Thank you, Avant. It is shameful that those who cannot provide a scientific argument against my assertion that oil will work perfectly well for a number of years resort to either insults or accusations of 'trouble making'. I suppose it is a contention that the garage industry would not wish to debate.

I find it equally shameful that people who claim to have a scientific and engineering backgrround continue to claim that changing your oil is not necessary. You also claim that its is OK not to change your brake fliud or tyres even when they are beyond the accepted ages and that is a safety issue.

I find it baffling why members of this forum wil critisise BMW, VW, Renault etc. etc. for introducing long life servicing schedules with 20,000 mile oil change intervals and then say on this thread oil changes are not necessary if you only do a small mileage.

John F. If you wish to wreck your engines go ahead and do it but do not tell posters its OK to use 20 year old tyres like you did the other week. That is just plain dangerous.

Engine oil - FP

"I find it equally shameful that people who claim to have a scientific and engineering backgrround continue to claim that changing your oil is not necessary."

Once again your reading skills let you down. It was not claimed that changing your oil is not necessary - ever.

You are trying to swing the "shameful" tag back onto those who merely disagree with you. Originally "shameful" was applied to your comments as a result of your rudeness and your inability to tolerate opinions different from yours.

It is a pity this thread has got bogged down in such matters; it could have been an interesting discussion instead of a display of petulance.

If I were a moderator I might be considering closing it.

Edited by FP on 08/01/2014 at 11:07

Engine oil - Collos25

Thank you, Avant. It is shameful that those who cannot provide a scientific argument against my assertion that oil will work perfectly well for a number of years resort to either insults or accusations of 'trouble making'. I suppose it is a contention that the garage industry would not wish to debate.

I find it equally shameful that people who claim to have a scientific and engineering backgrround continue to claim that changing your oil is not necessary. You also claim that its is OK not to change your brake fliud or tyres even when they are beyond the accepted ages and that is a safety issue.

I find it baffling why members of this forum wil critisise BMW, VW, Renault etc. etc. for introducing long life servicing schedules with 20,000 mile oil change intervals and then say on this thread oil changes are not necessary if you only do a small mileage.

John F. If you wish to wreck your engines go ahead and do it but do not tell posters its OK to use 20 year old tyres like you did the other week. That is just plain dangerous.

He hasn`t wrecked his engine though even in 27 years,I have seen oil in India and African countries do 5 years hard work then strained and put back for another long time and with the dust and heat it has to work far harder than in the UK..

Engine oil - Andrew-T

< John F. If you wish to wreck your engines go ahead and do it .... >

I think it is up to you, Skidpan, to persuade us of your opinions by providing evidence of engines 'wrecked' by not having annual oil changes?

Engine oil - chrisberg

Oil changing is very important to make your machine in a good mood always ,before i have a car i hate changing oil and i always waiting up to it look dark but somebody say that i need to change always for a better engine.

Edited by chrisberg on 08/01/2014 at 08:56

Engine oil - Brit_in_Germany

My understanding of John F's idea was that he was changing the oil albeit only a partial change by allowing the oil at the bottom of the sump to seep out carrying the crud with it. The next step is then to top up with fresh oil.

Engine oil - skidpan

My understanding of John F's idea was that he was changing the oil albeit only a partial change by allowing the oil at the bottom of the sump to seep out carrying the crud with it. The next step is then to top up with fresh oil.

That well known and widely practiced partial oil change. In 39 years of driving I have never heard of only draining the oil at the bottom of the sump.

Beggars belief.

Engine oil - Bromptonaut

My understanding of John F's idea was that he was changing the oil albeit only a partial change by allowing the oil at the bottom of the sump to seep out carrying the crud with it. The next step is then to top up with fresh oil.

My understanding was the opposite.

Drain oil normally then, jacking if necessary to ensure drain plug is lowest, leave overnight. GUnge that sticks like ketchup to the bottle will then drain out.

There's also a hell of a differernce between a TR7 doing 2k miles comprising a few longish summer journeys and a car used year round for short runs. Ditto a car that gets out and up to temperature regularly but takes 2yrs to do 10k miles.

Interval on my 2000/X Xantia was, IIRC, 12k. Always stuck to that except for a couple of years where it was restricted to five mile station commute when I serviced it annually. Ran to over 13yrs/150k without any lube related problems.

Was seen off by multiple other jobs being needed including cambelt, clutch, full set of suspension spheres and oil leak(s)

Engine oil - corax

There's also a hell of a differernce between a TR7 doing 2k miles comprising a few longish summer journeys and a car used year round for short runs. Ditto a car that gets out and up to temperature regularly but takes 2yrs to do 10k miles.

It also depends on the engine. A highly stressed petrol turbo will need more regular oil changes. And there are a number of these that will self destruct if left too long. Saabs 2.0 turbo used in the 95, or the VAG 1.8T for example. Both can block their oil pick ups and oil pressure will drop with the inevitable result.

Edited by corax on 08/01/2014 at 20:23

Engine oil - Avant

The last two posts say it all: it depends on several factors.

Assuming that John F means what Bromptonaut and I think he does, that overnight complete draining sounds like a useful tip for people doing a DIY oil change.

In the hope that if there's anything more to be said it's said moderately and politely, I'll let the thread run. Any more rudeness will be deleted.

Engine oil - John F

The last two posts say it all: it depends on several factors.

Assuming that John F means what Bromptonaut and I think he does, that overnight complete draining sounds like a useful tip for people doing a DIY oil change.

In the hope that if there's anything more to be said it's said moderately and politely, I'll let the thread run. Any more rudeness will be deleted.

Once again, thank you Avant. Both you and Bromptonaut are correct in your assumption. I am astonished anyone could have interpreted my advice otherwise. A garage that sucks the old oil out from above, inevitably leaving residual gunge below, is clearly more interested in profit than doing a proper job, although I appreciate that leaving it to drip for several hours would be commercially unacceptable.

But still no-one has convinced me that it is necessary to change modern oil in a modern engine more frequently than 10,000m or 5years [or even longer], whichever comes first. The 'short journey' argument is a red herring; the vast majority of Aunt Minnies' engines are small and warm up rapidly. As indicated by one or two interesting links in previous posts, oil does not go 'off'.

Perhaps we might have separate debates about brake fluid and tyre rubber, both of which have much increased longevity these days. I sometimes wonder how old tyres are on some low mileage caravans and trailers.

Engine oil - bathtub tom

>> A garage that sucks the old oil out from above, inevitably leaving residual gunge below

I dispute that any modern engine with an efficient cooling system would have 'gunge' unless it was used for very short journies on a regular basis.

Engine oil - Brit_in_Germany

John F, please accept my apologies for misunderstanding your post. I assumed that the second paragraph was an explanation of how you achieved the first.

Engine oil - dieselnut

I use a suction device to drain the oil on both the VW diesels I have. ( 1.9PD & 2l CR )

The first time I used it I was sceptical if it would remove all the old oil. I was doing other jops on the car at the time & already had the under guards removed from the engine. After sucking out all the oil I undid the sump plug & nothing came out.

Also, when the oil filter has been removed there is a hole at the bottom of the filter canister that connects to the oil cooler I think. When I put my suction tube down there it removed another half pint which would otherwise have stayed in the engine. So I belive it is better ( on this engine setup anyway ) than just using the sump plug.

Regarding degradation of oil over time, i'm in agreement with John F although wouldn't push it to the same extreeme. I have a BMW motorcycle that specifies yearly or 6k oil changes. This year I did 2k miles, the shortest journey was 40 miles & most 100+ miles. I will change the oil after 2 years when it will probably have done 4k miles.

Engine oil - Avant

"Perhaps we might have separate debates about brake fluid and tyre rubber, both of which have much increased longevity these days. I sometimes wonder how old tyres are on some low mileage caravans and trailers."

Views on tyre life, in terms of time as muchj as mileage, could be interesting: I'll start a new thread so that this one can stick to lubricants.

Engine oil - Ordovices

A garage that sucks the old oil out from above, inevitably leaving residual gunge below, is clearly more interested in profit than doing a proper job, although I appreciate that leaving it to drip for several hours would be commercially unacceptable.

Again the paranoia of the gunk left in the sump should you choose to suck the oil out.

Get the car engine nicely warm, remove the sump plug and watch it cascade out. Leave it for a few hours and you see the thick sludgy residue come out, or do you? What you are mainly seeing is cold oil, more viscous and with less head behind it, oozing and dripping out. The more oil that drains, the cooler the oil left, and the sump is invariably a comparatively large surface area exposed to ambient temperature hence the more viscous the oil that remains.

If there was lumps of gunk going around the engine, how come it doesn't choke the oil filter?

The oil was in the sump, with a crankshaft spinning around at 3000 rpm like a 100+hp moulinex, throwing oil every which way at high speed. Any "gunk" in the sump must surely be so well adhered to resist that kind of dynamic bombardment that draining wouldn't shift it, anyway.

Engine oil - skidpan

The oil was in the sump, with a crankshaft spinning around at 3000 rpm like a 100+hp moulinex, throwing oil every which way at high speed.

The crank does not rotate in the oil. If it did the the oil would become full of air which as we all know is a very poor lubricant. Also the resistance of the crank running in oil would rob the engine of a huge amount of power.

All engines have baffles in the sump to prevent the oil moving around especially under cornering, braking and acceleration, the crank would hit those if it ran in the oil. Many modern engines have "windage" trays between the top oil level and the crank to prevent the wind resultling from the rotation of the crank disturbing the surface of the oil.

Engine oil - corax

The crank does not rotate in the oil. If it did the the oil would become full of air which as we all know is a very poor lubricant. Also the resistance of the crank running in oil would rob the engine of a huge amount of power.

I'm not sure about this, but given the pressure of hydraulics and the way liquid can act as a solid, wouldn't the crank snap if it hit a sump full of oil at the speeds that it rotates?

I saw a Freelander drive at high speed into a ford running high - it blew the engine and stopped the car dead as if it had hit a brick wall, then it floated serenely down the brook. Needless to say the driver looked sheepish as his kids cried in the back and his wife screamed expletives at him.

Engine oil - RT

I'm not sure about this, but given the pressure of hydraulics and the way liquid can act as a solid, wouldn't the crank snap if it hit a sump full of oil at the speeds that it rotates.

Pre-WW2, cars did use a "scoop-dip" method of lubricating the big-ends - not very effectively

Engine oil - Hamsafar

A garage that sucks the old oil out from above, inevitably leaving residual gunge below, is clearly more interested in profit than doing a proper job.

Quite the contrary, I have invested in a sucker and the first few times did remove the sump plug and only a spoonful came out. Of course no gunk did, I have never seen a sump with gunk in it as I am probably too young at 40.

Engine oil - mss1tw

A garage that sucks the old oil out from above, inevitably leaving residual gunge below, is clearly more interested in profit than doing a proper job.

Quite the contrary, I have invested in a sucker and the first few times did remove the sump plug and only a spoonful came out. Of course no gunk did, I have never seen a sump with gunk in it as I am probably too young at 40.

That's either a glitch or an utterly geniusly formatted reply about congealed gunge.

Engine oil - oldtoffee

>>>That's either a glitch or an utterly geniusly formatted reply about congealed gunge.

I think the swear filter has tried with only partial success to conceal the fact that Hamsafar has "invested in a *ucker"

Engine oil - madf

At one time, the Austion 18000 engien kept having engine failures. The dipstick level was too high and teh crank kept hitting the oil, cavitation took place (bubbles) and the bearings were starved of oil.

Only lawnmower engines have cranks dipping into the oil - splash lubrication...

As for sludge, none of you can recall Ford engines of teh 1980s where sludge formed ion the top of the cylinder head due to lots of short engines and few oil changes? The "Balck Death" killed lots of engines. To clear it needed running the engine warm, chnaging oil for flushing oil, 20 minutes running at idle, oil change again and new filter. Then oil change 1000 miles later etc..

Engine oil - Andrew-T

At one time, the Austion 18000 engien kept having engine failures. The dipstick level was too high ....

Now that would have been some car ... :-)

Engine oil - gordonbennet

Black Death isn't over by any means, my indy showed me the two V12 Mercedes engines he had stripped out in his workshops.

This is worth a few minutes of your time if you want to see what happens when oil chnages are neglected....www.youtube.com/watch?v=KC-SxrsgEwo

Engine oil - mss1tw

Black Death isn't over by any means, my indy showed me the two V12 Mercedes engines he had stripped out in his workshops.

This is worth a few minutes of your time if you want to see what happens when oil chnages are neglected....www.youtube.com/watch?v=KC-SxrsgEwo

Would've been cheaper to fit a replacement engine surely?

Engine oil - gordonbennet

Would've been cheaper to fit a replacement engine surely?

I agree and don't call me shirley..;) (courtesy Leslie Nielsen), and if i recall the mechanic said that he'd suggested the same to the customer.

Seeing that baked on gunge reminded me vividly of so many neglected cars i've had the displeasure to work on in years gone by.

If you find the second vid, the crankcase is just as bad, IIR they renewed the pick up strainer, but i would have liked them to cut it open to show the strainer, expect that would have been an eye opener.

Some interesting vids of oil filter comparisons by some of those American mechanics if you are interested to search, the average quality of which you wouldn't be wanting to leave in for 20k miles.

Engine oil - Wackyracer

One of my main concerns about long oil changes is the filters as none of the oil filter manufacturers will guarantee a filter to last the intervals that the vehicle manufacturers claim and anyone who has worked on neglected cars with the new cartridge type filter will have seen some that have broken up.

For me, Oil changes are preventative maintenance and I'll always change it yearly or before the recommended mileage (certainly no more than 10,000miles).

On my old Toyota the manufacturers recommendation was to change the oil every 6 months or 3000miles and the filter every 12 months or 6000miles. I could never see the logic in this and always changed the filter when changing the oil. Filters and oil are cheap - Engines are not.

Engine oil - SlidingPillar

At one time, the Austion 1800 engien kept having engine failures. The dipstick level was too high and teh crank kept hitting the oil, cavitation took place (bubbles) and the bearings were starved of oil.

Actually, the marked level was not too high, but the tendancy of the UK motorist to overfill lead to the problems. The same engine was used in Australia without problems, as the max mark was rarely reached and not exceeded there.

A new dipstick with lower markings for the UK solved the problem.

Engine oil - Bromptonaut

>>>That's either a glitch or an utterly geniusly formatted reply about congealed gunge.

I think the swear filter has tried with only partial success to conceal the fact that Hamsafar has "invested in a *ucker"

It's a site glitch associated with either cut/paste or attemots to turn the 'block quote' function on and off.

Engine oil - hillman

"Black Death isn't over by any means, my indy showed me the two V12 Mercedes engines he had stripped out in his workshops.

This is worth a few minutes of your time if you want to see what happens when oil changes are neglected....www.youtube.com/watch?v=KC-SxrsgEwo"

Two comments. I had a visit from my wife's much younger friend during the 1980s and her husband wanted me to look at their car which wasn't running too well. I took off the rocker box filler cap and it looked full of gunge, just like the video but not baked on. I shone a torch into the rocker box through the hole and showed him the gunge on the top of the cylinder head and told him to do a service and use several changes of flushing oil first with the hope that it would save the engine. But no, the engine seized the next day. They wanted me to do an engine overhaul for them. I don't mind lending tools, but I do mind rescuing people who are so careless - carless !

When I bought my Wolseley 6/110 in the early 70s it had suffered a catastrophic engine failure due to a piston fragmenting. I bought it to overhaul it for personal use. The block and crankshaft were totalled. Being in Central Africa limited the access to spare parts so I bought a worn out engine from a body shop in town and stripped that for parts. In short, the body shop had painted on the model and mileage and the milage was 8,800. I thought at the time that the mechanic had missed out a digit, but after watching the video through I'm not so sure. The crankshaft oilways were blocked with black powder, I thought at the time it was a popular "Friction Proof" product (I won't give the full name in case Avant scrubs it). I had to auger the oilways free, regrind the crankshaft and rebore the block. Thereby hangs a tail !!

Engine oil - gordonbennet

Hillman, a man after me own heart.

I too discourage the neglectful, it only encourages them when they get away too cheaply, they don't learn from it unless they've been seriously and expensively inconvenienced...bit like bailing people out of debt.

Wolsely 6/110, those and Westies of the same model i adored, and i'd love to own one of the those as a practical classic, or the Vanden Plas 4 litre R.

Engine oil - galileo

Wolsely 6/110, those and Westies of the same model i adored, and i'd love to own one of the those as a practical classic, or the Vanden Plas 4 litre R.

Once drove a 6/110 on the skidpan at Tockwith, quite tricky, I had a mate who could borrow his Dad's Westminster, which was a nice motor. I agree one of those big 3 litre cars would be a good classic, at least you'd have a comfortable ride over potholed roads!

Engine oil - hillman

The sump of the Wolseley 6/110 holds 12 3/4 pints of oil and I've always changed it and the filter when it got dirty. Being that the engine was designed in the 1930s I've gone through a lot of lubricant in my time.

The model is very heavy and subject to corrosion in the underside and in cavities if you don't continually watch it and top up the Waxoyling. When I returned from Zambia I delivered the car to Zambia Airways at Lusaka and they handled the 'shipment'. I picked up the car at Heathrow about a month after I got back. It was on a 'dolly', basically a flat steel plate barely bigger that the wheelbase, and was unloaded by a forklift truck driven by a young man from the office wearing a smart suit.

Then I drove it up to the High Peak along the M1 at a steady 70 mph and country roads as fast as permitted. The first thing required was to take it into an MOT centre to be checked out and registered. The MOT people phoned me at the office and told me that the car was basically OK but they couldn't do a rolling road test because one of the front tyres had a circumferential split on an inner wall and was in a dangerous condition. That was probably caused by the airline failing to deflate the tyres according to procedures after loading it into the hold of the aircraft. But, I'm still here !

Engine oil - SteveLee

Perhaps we might have separate debates about brake fluid and tyre rubber, both of which have much increased longevity these days. I sometimes wonder how old tyres are on some low mileage caravans and trailers.

I suspect the epidemic of failed ABS modulators is due to lack of brake fluid changes - modern synthetic DOT5.1 (super DOT4) brake fluid absorbs moisure just as readily as old fashioned mineral fluid allowing the system to corrode internally. I'd say modern cars are more at risk from damage from neglected braked fluid changes than older ones. I change my fluid every two years as my car is one that has a history of ABS system corrosion if neglected.