Longer. Takes me over 10yrs to do 10K in my 30+yr old TR7 and two years in my 15yr old Audi. Tens of thousands of gullible Aunt Minnies are fleeced by garages doing polluting and unnecessary annual oil changes. Oil doesn't go 'off.'
For pities sake JohnF just give up with your stupid car maintenance information. I do under 2000 miles a year in my classic but I still change it every year. it costs nothing as a percentage of my total costs.
As far as my road car oil changes I have been using the manufacturers recomendations as long as I have been driving. That has been 10,000 miles or a year since the mid 80's with only a couple of exceptions and I have never had an issue. Only ever needed to top up a couple of cars in the first 10,000 miles and never after that.
Oil is very different today to the 20w50 stuff we bought in the 60's and 70's. It does an absolutely brilliant job over the longer intervals but it still needs changing regularly even if you do a small mileage. That is why distance and time intervals are specified.
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I read somewhere, and other BRs will comment on this, that low mileages equate to short runs and condensation forms in the engine. That leads to yellow/white emulsion. My expert uses a flushing oil during the oil change procedure when he sees that. BTW, I've never fully accepted the 10 / 12,000 miles oil change argument, thinking that it is for fleet use when the fleet managers sell the car on afterwards - having reduced their maintenance cost to almost nothing.
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HGV fleets run their oil for distances like 60k miles. The oil is changed when indicators like TBN and soot levels show it to be necessary, and not until. Annual change for cars on low mileage or 10k for "normal" mileage seems perfectly acceptable. The OP is not from the USA, is he?
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HGV fleets run their oil for distances like 60k miles. The oil is changed when indicators like TBN and soot levels show it to be necessary, and not until. Annual change for cars on low mileage or 10k for "normal" mileage seems perfectly acceptable. The OP is not from the USA, is he?
HGV's have different filtration systems though with an oil centrifuge to help clean the oil of nasties. cleanoilservices.com/centrifuges.html
Edited by gordonbennet on 06/01/2014 at 10:42
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Some may. HGV's, IIRC, use by-pass rather than full flow filters. This allows a more stringent level of filtration. But the fact remains that the oil is still in good working order for a long time, if soot and other contaminants are controlled. Here is a blurb from one of the well known labs.: tinyurl.com/km4kt4h
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Worth looking on YouTube at filter comparisons, some (mainly in America) mechanics have taken a selection of the typical oil filters sold, cut them open to show exactly whats inside, its a bit of an eye opener.
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Yes, indeed! A fascinating subject. I have a VAG vehicle with 1.8TSI engine: I don't think I should use the extended service interval given we only do a limited mileage. Even though we (or me at least!) avoid short runs, I think the turbo needs clean oil, so an annual change seems to make sense, using a VW 504 oil. Fuchs, as it happens. At least that is what I give to the dealer....
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The variable/extended service intervals are only for people doing more than 10,000 miles a year and a different higher quality oil is used. My 1.4 TSi is expected to do about 8,000 miles a year and is on the 10,000/12 month service schedule.
Overall the costs are very similar, the main saving is the time the car is at the dealers which can be an issue to high mileage users.
Any deviation from VW's recomendation will possible cause issues should you have a warranty claim.
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It came with the variable service set. As they do not know our mileage I had to be specific about the annual service, otherwise it may have gone for quite a while. We could have left it to the on-board gadget to decide, I suppose. I continue to use the same oil as the variable service regime - on the basis that it outperfoms VW 502 oils according to the Lubrizol charts. But that is only a personal opinion based on no real evidence:)
Edited by nortones2 on 06/01/2014 at 12:38
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The variable/extended service intervals are only for people doing more than 10,000 miles a year and a different higher quality oil is used. My 1.4 TSi is expected to do about 8,000 miles a year and is on the 10,000/12 month service schedule.
Overall the costs are very similar, the main saving is the time the car is at the dealers which can be an issue to high mileage users.
Any deviation from VW's recomendation will possible cause issues should you have a warranty claim.
I take issue with the use of different quality oil - I've never seen two different specifications given in a handbook dependent on mileage interval.
The Vauxhall and Hyundai we have in the family both have 20,000 change intervals - in practice we change both at 10,000 but it has to be the same oil spec.
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Handbook for Yeti page 236 is quite specific on this. Petrol 1.8 Flexible service: VW504 00. Petrol 1.8 fixed service : VW 502 00.
Lubrizol comparison chart: tinyurl.com/b68cp27
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I take issue with the use of different quality oil - I've never seen two different specifications given in a handbook dependent on mileage interval.
The Vauxhall and Hyundai we have in the family both have 20,000 change intervals - in practice we change both at 10,000 but it has to be the same oil spec.
Pasted from the service book in my Leon
Petrol without flexible service interval VW 502 00
Petrol with flexible service interval (LongLife) VW 504 00
VAG specify the same oil for current diesels regardless of interval because it has the be the same DPF specific variety.
Another example, the wifes Ceed has a DPF and 1yr/20,000 mile intervals, the oil specified is fully synthetic C3. If the car had been delivered 1 month earlier it would have had no DPF and a 1yr/10,000 mile service interval and would have used B3 Semi synthetic.
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You have a sensible dealer there, the Toyota dealer was also quite happy for me to supply my bulk bought Millers full synthetic at service time for the Hilux, with a sump capacity of 7.5 litres it made quite a saving and excellent quality.
Sensible view of servicing too if i may say, i'm quite convinced that the often short lives of turbos (esp Diesels whcih should last life of engine) in some well regarded makes is no coincidence, with extended oil service intervals playing their part...quite apart from not allowing the turbo to warm up and cool slightly before starting and after hard use.
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Very kind of you to say so. Gordon Lamb Skoda, of Chesterfield. They seem very good.
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Had a centrifugal filter on an old Fiat 850. Took it apart to clean it (I was being nosey, to find out what was inside) and found a 5mm layer around the outside of similar consistency to a pencil eraser. Don't know if that was there to embed particles or if it was muck that had been caught.
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I expect the average driver covering 12k a year is doing some reasonably long runs, which will help the oil to keep clean as everything is getting hot.
The driver covering 5k a year is probably doing a lot of short runs.
In both cases in most modern cars i expect an annual change is sufficient for most people, bearing in mind how long most people keep their cars, i also expect most people don't service their own cars so annual is probably costs effective for them.
Where the water muddies is for those of us who keep our cars a long time, and quite possibly either service our own or have an indy or make specialist to do an annual service at MOT time, thats my situation by the way.
When my mileage was higher in other cars i would slip a half yearly oil change in myself as well as my indies annual, now my mileage has dropped his annual services are adequate IMO @ around 7k miles (12k recommended IIRC).
Mind you i trust my garage, i know he uses Fuchs full synthetic oil and genuine filters and the service is done properly including full brake strip outs, transmisson oil changes when required etc.
I also wouldn't go past 10k miles without an oil change under any circumstances whatever the maker recommended (to attract lease and hire companies), but then i'm a dinosaur apparently.
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We keep our cars for long periods - decades normally - and subject at least one of them to stop/start journeys where in winter they never ever warm up. Average journey may be 1.5miles.
So every year for 30 years oil and filter change. DIY so costs buttons - £30 for fully synthetic and OE oil filter.
Guess what - no , zero, engine issues in 30 years .
I treat any advice to prolong oil chnages on lttle used cars as muppetry as the costs saved could be offset by one disaster - by a factor of 50 plus.
No doubt the person recommending such a routine does not believe in house insurance on the grounds he has never had a fire or an an accident. (and can we put any faith on a poster on a forum with such outlandish claims?)
It's as much insurance as much as maintenance.
Edited by madf on 06/01/2014 at 11:25
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Mind you i trust my garage, i know he uses Fuchs full synthetic oil
Good oil. I use the same in my car, changed every 5-6000 miles.
I drive at a swift cruise most of the time but if I get a move on I like to know that the turbo is protected under all conditions.
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"For pities sake JohnF just give up with your stupid car maintenance information."
I see the spirit of friendly tolerance is alive and well in the BR in 2014. Of course, it's Skidpan, who probably wouldn't react too well if someone else described a comment of his as stupid.
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"For pities sake JohnF just give up with your stupid car maintenance information."
I see the spirit of friendly tolerance is alive and well in the BR in 2014. Of course, it's Skidpan, who probably wouldn't react too well if someone else described a comment of his as stupid.
So you think that JohnF is correct telling people that changing their oil, brake fluid, tyres is a waste of money.
If you do you are just as stupid as JohnF.
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So you think that JohnF is correct telling people that changing their oil, brake fluid, tyres is a waste of money.
If you do you are just as stupid as JohnF.
So you're still at it, slinging barbs at anyone, from your unassailable position of absolute certainty. Opinions are just that, but of course yours are irrefutable fact.
I'm with FP here. Modern oil is hard-wearing stuff, and as long as your engine gets fully warmed through whenever you use your car, you needn't throw it away (the oil, not the car) every 12 months.
Edited by Andrew-T on 06/01/2014 at 12:44
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"So you think that JohnF is correct..."
Did I say that? Did I?
I was objecting to your lack of manners. I have no view at all on JohnF's post. Now I'm beginning to wonder, Skidpan, if it's not just manners you're lacking.
Not that I would go as far as to call you stupid, of course, even if you deserved it.
Edited by FP on 06/01/2014 at 14:47
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< For pities sake JohnF just give up with your stupid car maintenance information. I do under 2000 miles a year in my classic but I still change it every year. it costs nothing as a percentage of my total costs. >
Like John F, you are welcome to change your oil as often or as rarely as you like, Skidpan. If his oil stays honey-like for years, good for him. As is often said, modern oil is good for high mileages, which is why I change my diesel oil every 10K, even though the maker suggests 12K, which I also think is too long - it gets black within a week.
Seems fine to me to change every 3K if you only do 1500 a year. My 'toy' car does about that, but when it goes out it is always for long runs.
Edited by Andrew-T on 06/01/2014 at 12:30
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< For pities sake JohnF just give up with your stupid car maintenance information.
Nice to see a bit of intelligent debate apart from skidpan's insulting use of the word 'stupid'. [ Just for the record I had 'A' levels in Chemistry and Physics by the age of 17]
Of course oil is much better than the old 20-50 gunge - that's why it doesn't need changing every year. And the extraordinary comment above about house insurance merits no response.
My 30yr old TR7 engine continues to run sweetly [admittedly only about 70,000m] - the head has never been off and it uses hardly any oil. Our old Passat was still running well at over 240,000m when we got rid of it - cheap semi-synthetic oil every 10-12k or so.
No one so far has explained exactly why oil needs to be replaced annually. I still contend that if you only do 2000m a year it will still be doing its job after 5yrs. So instead of disagreeable invective I would appreciate a scientific argument why this should not be so. Just because 'it says so in the brochure' is not a satisfactory argument.
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No one so far has explained exactly why oil needs to be replaced annually. I still contend that if you only do 2000m a year it will still be doing its job after 5yrs. So instead of disagreeable invective I would appreciate a scientific argument why this should not be so. Just because 'it says so in the brochure' is not a satisfactory argument
If you do long enough journeys to get the engine thoroughly warmed then I err on the side of agreeing you...but would change annually, anyway!
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Of course oil is much better than the old 20-50 gunge - that's why it doesn't need changing every year.
Though generally true, this is probably an oversimplification. There are quite a lot of reports that recent spec. oils, formulated to avoid long-term poisoning of the exhaust catalyst, have compromised performance, particularly in relation to older cars with flat tappet engines.
The evidence is largely anecdotal (one wouldn't expect any relevant research to be published by the oil industry, after all ) but there's too much of it to dismiss out of hand.
This now also applies to recent spec diesel oils, formulated to protect the exhaust treatment systems, and there are apparently even cases where diesel engine manufacturers specifically prohibit the use of recent spec oils
discussed, for example here: www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html
Since I drive an old car, and change the oil quite (probably too) often, I buy the oldest spec. oil I can find. Lately this has been API SJ (Straight 40W China Petroleum Corporation in summer, Mobil Delvac 15W-40 in not-summer, both mineral) which perhaps isn't old enough, and the Delvac, though a quality oil, is optimised for diesels.
I can get 20/50 motorcycle oil in the reassuringly obsolete SG grade,( though its a bit more expensive and won't have friction modifiers because of possible wet-clutch effects), so I might graduate to that.
One step forward, two steps back.
That's progress.
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Of course oil is much better than the old 20-50 gunge - that's why it doesn't need changing every year.
Though generally true, this is probably an oversimplification. There are quite a lot of reports that recent spec. oils, formulated to avoid long-term poisoning of the exhaust catalyst, have compromised performance, particularly in relation to older cars with flat tappet engines.
The evidence is largely anecdotal (one wouldn't expect any relevant research to be published by the oil industry, after all ) but there's too much of it to dismiss out of hand.
This now also applies to recent spec diesel oils, formulated to protect the exhaust treatment systems, and there are apparently even cases where diesel engine manufacturers specifically prohibit the use of recent spec oils
discussed, for example here: www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html
...
One step forward, two steps back.
That's progress.
I find it difficult to take seriously any oil advice coming from the USA, as carbibles is, when they're so backward in their attitudes to oil - eg just use basic mineral oil changed every 3,000 miles - and the API standard is simply a minimum standard
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I just picked carbibles as an example. There are a lot of reports of wiped cams on new spec oils (with lowered levels of ZDDP) out there. It seems to be a particular issue with older technology high performance engines, such as "muscle cars" and air-cooled Porsches. Such cars are probably much rarer in the UK.
While there are, of course, a fair amount of good 'ole boys shootn' the semi-literate s*** comin from the USA, theres also an active, hands-on, technically aware car culture, which I'd say is fast becoming the preserve of an oily anachronism minority in the UK.
"Backward" is a rather general, blanket criticism, and doesn't really address this issue in any meaningful way.
It tacitly assumes that newer is better, but clearly that is not always the case. (consider, for example, the similar sorry saga of diesel particulate filters). Old cars are of negligable commercial interest to major oil companies so I wouldn't expect them to devote much effort to thier protection.
While synthetic oils are inherently superior, the only comparative data on wear rates that I've seen didn't show any significant difference. This data came from the USA, but I don't see that as any reason to dismiss it.
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