|
I have a ford puma that is out of warranty in January, atm, it’s at the dealers for a strange noise which was initially diagnosed as a faulty drive pulley, and the crankshaft pulley was identified and replaced, this , however didn’t cure it, it was then thought to be solenoids that control the rockers ect, but the dealer rang to say that these parts that are needed are pretty much unobtainable for the foreseeable future so ford have decided to fit a brand new engine, not a short or part engine, or a rebuilt one but a brand new, factory fresh one, I’ve had several issues with it and was thinking of changing it next year, but should I now keep it, it’s a high spec model and, with a new engine I’m sort of starting from zero ( engine wise ) car has 22k on the clock, should I stick or twist..?
|
|
I would keep it for now, nice new engine, happy days! But were the issues you had engine related or elsewhere? Mileage is low, it's got years of life in it. But see how it goes and review in a few months.
|
|
That is a tricky one!.
What is the warranty on the new engine?.
Also, had you already decided to change next year before the engine noise became a thing or was that the deciding factor?
After that I guess it would boil down to how much you like the car and how much the other issues bothered you?.
|
|
"What is the warranty on the new engine?"
I was thinking exactly the same. Sometimes it's only to the end of the original warranty but on something as significant as an engine, I would hope for longer.
I've never understood this lack of parts problem. I've read about it with JLR and I'm sure other makes. They say no parts available - but somewhere in the World there must be a factory churning them out to make whole new engines.
|
|
I'd ask how much they'd give me in PX as-is.
|
|
You often read posts saying how fantastic modern engine design is and how they'll last indefinately using no oil between stupid service intervals thanks to high quality this that and the other fine engineering tolerances etc, well that's that theory blown out of the water.
I'd be little short of digusted if a 22k mile car needed anything much doing let alone a new engine, and i'd sell the thing asap before something else expires out of warranty.
|
|
Could just be a duff one of course. Might be worth looking at www.pumaforums.co.uk/ to see if anyone else has the same problem.
|
|
|
|
Interesting story, but what engine is it ?
|
Interesting story, but what engine is it ?
1.0 Ecoboost, either 125 or 155bhp. I think they are all mild hybrids if that makes a difference.
|
|
|
|
|
Yes, I share your sentiments GB. In this case it sounds more like a factory defect, perhaps a casting defect? which has manifested itself in short order, luckily for Primus under warranty. If it is an ecoboost these don't have the best reputation, but they do tend to last longer than this before grenading I think.
|
|
|
|
|
They say no parts available - but somewhere in the World there must be a factory churning them out to make whole new engines.
Yep, that's what they churn them out for, hence none available for spares.
Lean logistics and the logic of supply limited obsolescence.
(good name for a band? Or maybe a textbook?)
|
|
|
|
|
|
I would leap at the opportunity to have a new engine if I were you, it is a factory fresh engine installed by Ford, won't affect value as it is all done under warranty. Now, if I were buying a second hand car, and noticed it had a new engine fitted of unknown origin or by a garage I wasn't familiar with, I would be concerned. But in this case, go for it. Warranty repairs arenot really something you need to disclose on sale anyway, it won't incease the used value but neither will it decrease it. A broken Ford Puma would be worth much less, though, unless the dealer can continue the warranty claim after you trade it in.
Just re-read your post - keep it.
|
|
Yes it’s the 125 engine mild hybrid, the fault manifested itself when warm which, to me, sounded like a pulley, it’s had a few issues, it started with a piece of trim missing, no biggie as it was under a fiver to replace, then the rear passenger door wouldn’t open and a module was ordered an£ fitted, then, biggest issue was a dash rattle, most on the puma forum ( I’m a member) suggested it was an airbag bracket, but the garage denied this and said it was the instrument cluster, anyway,a new dash was fitted and all was good, but, lots of problems with deep sleep battery issues, many puma owners have this, some have changed the battery (12v), and it made no difference, the car still starts although, some have had totally flat batteries, thing is, I love the car it’s a high spec first edition, I normally keep my cars three, maybe four years then get rid, the only other car in this class I like is the Toyota Yaris cross, I’ve had a quick look around one and I like it, but I haven’t driven one yet, I’m just thinking Toyota build quality will be much better than the ford, but , the Ford dealer I use have really looked after me, I’ve been given a hire car on three occasions at no cost ( except fuel of course) so I would be confident that that would remain should I decide to buy a new one,I asked about the warranty on the engine and was told only to the end of the original warranty which is January 23, .
|
|
Oh, sounds like a Friday car, sell when you can for the best price you can, pre or post engine swap.
|
|
My advice would be to get the new engine, but then change the car as soon as is practical to do so.
|
|
|
|
|
'Advice' here often seems to be what what the poster would do, as opposed to what the OP should do. Without knowing the OP's attitude to cars, how much he wishes to spend on ownership each year, the extent he values the enjoyment of regular new models, the relationship with his brand specialist garage, his annual mileage (I guess 3yr warranty, 22,000 miles = circa 7,000 miles per annum) etc., it is difficult to advise him.
Financially, it would make sense to run in the new engine carefully and keep the car for as long as possible. Congenital problems should have manifested themselves and been fixed by now. A well looked after 7,000 miles per annum car should last around 20yrs. But, as a satisfied driver from new of our troublefree Peugeot 2008, 15% of the way along its expected lifeline and destined for our permanent ownership, I wouldn't start from here (apologies to the Irish).
|
'Advice' here often seems to be what what the poster would do, as opposed to what the OP should do.
Weird that, what with it being precisely what the OP is asking for.............
|
Financially, it would make sense to run in the new engine carefully
That might cause more issues in the future. Every car I have bought new since 1980 has had simple running in instructions which basically say drive normally but avoid "lugging" the engine (low road speed in a high gear) or use high revs for prolonged periods. Using that method has served me well, never had an issue. But I know a couple of people who ran modern engines in like engines of the 60's and earlier, they encountered high oil consumption probably due to bore glazing.
The only thing I have done different to the manufacturers specs is with a diesel, always had an additional oil/filter change after 6 months or 5,000 miles and then go with annual or 10,000 mile changes. Bought a Pela which made this very easy and mess free.
|
Financially, it would make sense to run in the new engine carefully
That might cause more issues in the future. Every car I have bought new since 1980 has had simple running in instructions which basically say drive normally but avoid "lugging" the engine (low road speed in a high gear) or use high revs for prolonged periods. Using that method has served me well, never had an issue. But I know a couple of people who ran modern engines in like engines of the 60's and earlier, they encountered high oil consumption probably due to bore glazing.
The only thing I have done different to the manufacturers specs is with a diesel, always had an additional oil/filter change after 6 months or 5,000 miles and then go with annual or 10,000 mile changes. Bought a Pela which made this very easy and mess free.
But the thing is, i'd assume the OP hasn't abused the car during the (nearly) 3 years of ownership since new. With that in mind, and after 22k miles, the engine has failed. It also seems any warranty offered with the new engine (which could suffer the same problems) is only going to last till the cars warranty runs out in Jan (which seems ludicrous to me for something of such high monetary value, even though the OP isn't going to be paying for it), so that really wouldn't fill me with confidence. It also suggests to me that Ford doesn't have much either!.
Financially, it would make sense to run in the new engine carefully and keep the car for as long as possible.
If the new engine failed too, the OP would have to pay for repair/replacement. Would it still make financial sense should that happen?
|
It also seems any warranty offered with the new engine (which could suffer the same problems) is only going to last till the cars warranty runs out in Jan (which seems ludicrous to me for something of such high monetary value, even though the OP isn't going to be paying for it), so that really wouldn't fill me with confidence.
That is standard practice in the retail sector. Some years ago I bought a new battery with a 5 year warranty, it failed after 4 years 363 days. The seller was reluctant to provide a replacement since it was close to the end of the warranty, only my mention of trading standards got them to change their mind. The first battery offered was a nasty, cheap unknown brand with only 330 CCA (mine had 470) but after mentioning trading standards again I got a battery to the same spec but with only 2 days warranty.
Not an issue, it lasted 7 years.
|
|
To be clear, the engine hasn’t failed as such, just had an annoying noise that was only audible when the engine was warm and on idle, I do like to change my cars every three/four years, I don’t do pcp as I like to own my cars so tend to sell when there’s still some value left in it, I also never abuse them I am old enough to drive with mechanical sympathy although I don’t run in engines anymore just drive them steadily, I had some kind of a plan forming, as I’ve only four years left until I can officially retire ( I could go now if I had to ) I was maybe going to get a Toyota and keep it for more than I would normally given their reputed reliability even taking advantage of the ten year 100k warranty ( servicing at Toyota) , I just wonder that Ford have a known issue with some of their engines but obviously would not want it made public so that’s maybe why they are going to fit a complete new engine, I dunno, just guessing, although, as I said the dealer said the cost and wait times have led them To go this route , disappointing that there’s no real warranty with the engine but I wonder if I’d have any redress should some fault develop after say 3 months or so..?
Edited by primus 1 on 21/12/2022 at 18:35
|
|
I don't think there's any right or wrong, a case either for keeping or selling it could be made.
If I ended up in this position, I would want to know more about what has actually gone wrong with the engine, whether it was a common fault and if so whether the new engine has a modified part otherwise the same could happen again. The fact that the dealer could not identify the problem to start with could be a positive in that if it was a common fault they perhaps would have known about it.
A possible solution might be to keep the car but buy an extended warranty of some sort that will cover the engine. Check the exclusions thoroughly.
Sometimes these decisions are emotional as much as anything else. If you have lost confidence in the car and will spend then next few months or years worrying about it then I would trade it in. Peace of mind etc.
|
|
|
|
To be honest, it sounds like you are at about the timeframe where you would normally change anyway. I wonder if the dealer would be in a position to give a full price now, with the knowledge they are getting the engine fixed courtesty of Ford UK? Or would they be left with a dud?
I would suggest getting a new engine and immediately trading in. pity it is occurring just on the cusp of being 3 years old, a 2 year old car will be more valuable but you won't really be able to sell it to third parties for a good price without some difficulty I imagine. You could try holding on for a repair and then getting a good price in a private sale. BUT i think the car market is about to crash.
I know ecoboost engines have a bad rep, but I do think this car must have been a factory defect rather than a design defect.
Perhaps give your criteria (if not already, hard to see existing posts after hitting reply) and the panel can assist in finding a new car, if you're going down that route.
|
|
Whether I sold it or not-I’d get the car valued by WeBuyAnyCar. You’d get a low figure-but you might be surprised and it might help you make up your mind.
|
|
|
|
To be clear, the engine hasn’t failed as such, just had an annoying noise that was only audible when the engine was warm and on idle,
The plot thickens. This makes me wonder if there was actually anything at all much wrong with the OP's engine.
In January 1980 I took delivery of my first (and last) new car - a Ford Fiesta 1300 Ghia, I complained that the engine sounded rough. The dealer 'blueprinted 'it, presumably with Ford's permission. This must have generated a considerable amount of desirable highly remunerative work. I did not notice much difference.
|
To be clear, the engine hasn’t failed as such, just had an annoying noise that was only audible when the engine was warm and on idle,
The plot thickens. This makes me wonder if there was actually anything at all much wrong with the OP's engine.
In January 1980 I took delivery of my first (and last) new car - a Ford Fiesta 1300 Ghia, I complained that the engine sounded rough. The dealer 'blueprinted 'it, presumably with Ford's permission. This must have generated a considerable amount of desirable highly remunerative work. I did not notice much difference.
I’m thinking that Ford know something that maybe they want to keep quiet, maybe it’s just the conspiracy theorist in me..normally manufacturers seem reluctant to change parts certainly not something as big as an engine ( part and cost wise) so maybe they’ve had other engines with this problem
|
|
|
|
|
|
