OK, morals all set to zero.

Firstly remove the cam cover and locate the head bolts. One at a time, starting near the centre of the head and spiraling outwards, loosen half a turn and re-tighten to their original position + 30 degrees, one at a time. If you are an experienced mechanic, you can assess whether the bolts will take more torque than this without moving into their non-elastic region.

Seconly, fit a pressure cap with a lower pressure. This was easy in the days of the British "tin caps" - there was a vast range. In your case, after checking that a "tin cap" won't fit (it might) you could consider winding out the spring under the pressure seal and cutting a bit off it. You can wind out and replace the spring if you drill a small hole in the visible flat part of the cap.

Thirdly, add a proprietory leak sealer to the coolant, after performing the first two operations. I don't have a favourite brand as I don't like them - but sometimes needs must. Consult the grapevine for the most effective brand.

Then sell it quickly.

659.

Hope you don't buy a replacement from someone with a similar amount of expertise1

Have you had a quote from a handy competent indy to fix it proper like?

Still a deservedly popular little car, it might be worth repairing then if still wanting to shift it to sell it privately and be in a better buying position.

Continuing to run it with an obviously blown gasket could see the head or block being damaged, if the bodgit and scarper liquid magic stuff doesn't work you might end up with a thoroughly clogged up cooling system to fix as well.

Well chaps, having given given due weight to your most kind advice, I think I might go for a cheap (if there is such a thing) head gasket fix. I wouldn't sell it privately as it is, I'm not that mean and besides they would know where I live.

If Parker's is right and it's worth £1800 px then surely it's worth a couple of hundred to get it roadworthy an ting.

I suppose these are the cars that get sold by people who insist on bringing it to you or meeting you in a car park, what?

Re-torqueing a cylinder head sometimes does effect a better seal, but it must only be done when the engine is absolutely overnight stone cold.

Some old Peugoet/Indenor diesel cylinder heads had to be re-torqued if not used for an appreciable time and there was a special cranked wrench available as a special tool to reach under the rocker shaft to do this job.

For what it's worth, Barr's Leaks (the bottle of fluid, not the tablets) worked for me. It was in an old iron-block Escort III 1.3, but it worked for over a year of ownership.

Thunder - I am sure you are right.. And to the other fellow, no I would never look someone in the eye and sell them a car that I knew was pooped. Especially if he had his little daughters with him saying "is this our new car daddy?"

No.

Not that it's very interesting, but I traded it in with a dealer who will have to fix it, it just won't go otherwise.

I got an 04 Volvo S40, black, with leather, aircon, new-looking michelins, hpi 80,000 miles and full volvo history which has since taken me round the country quietly and with no trouble, and feels totally solid. The sticker price was £1900 and cost to change was £400.

When you can brilliant (but boring) cars for that money I say why pay more!!!!