Hi,
My 1984 golf starts to misfire when hitting 40 in fourth gear. I have checked/cleaned all the plugs and leads and after initial promising results it came back again a few short hours later.
Some other advise has been to replace my fuel pump as this may be petrol starvation.
Has anybody got any further advise as to stop this annoying occurance?
Cheers
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As it only happens when the engine is labouring I doubt it's the fuel pump as this would cause problems at any speed.
Could be that your timing is out. Also check the vacuum advance/retard as I had a similar problem on my '79 Polo (oh, those were the days, stripping the head in my parent's garage with a £35 tool kit for "something to do"). Mind you, that was 15 years ago. Far more sensible now, I pay the garage £hundreds to do what I used to do for fun at a fraction of the cost.
Anyway, back on track, grab yourself a timing strobe and follow the instructions. I'd bet a small packet of chewing gum that your problem is there.
Now you're going to tell me it's a GTi with electronic ignition, aren't you.....
No Dosh - but then who has?
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As mentioned in quite a few other threads the last few days, by the sounds of it, your carb is icing up.
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?f=4&t=96...8
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?f=4&t=96...9
are a couple of threads where it's mentioned. There are more as well IIRC.
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what engine size is your golf. is it a carb model or a gti with injection?
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It is a 1.3 carb,
I am going to check for icing carb and check the coil. I think I will invest in some new leads aswell. The ones I have are the cheapo Hot Wire specials from Halfords and Les Smith stores!
I find it a bit ridiculous that leads can cost more than a radiator, but ho-hum!
Thanks for all the info
Cheers
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Sounds like the spark is tracking down the disributor cap or coil neck. Remove the connections and HT lead from th coil and clean the top of the coil. Look for burning or what looks like black lines running down the neck of the coil to the connections or the coil body. If there are black lines gently sandpaper them out with fine sandpaper and then paint the nech of the coil with nail varnish or cellulose paint. Replace the connections and HT lead and try again. If this doesn't do it check the distributor cap for the same burning or black lines on the inside and outside and clean and paint the cap as with the coil. Alternatively replace both coil and cap.
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Does the misfire stop when the revs go down? If it is a carb version, check the fuel filter isn't blocked.
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check rubber block carb sit on has not split. these can let in extra air that the engine cannot handle.
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I had a MK1 golf with the same engine.
Carb Icing will be most pronounced when the car is idling (i.e. it generally won't or does so badly) Therfore I doubt that this is the problem.
Do you have any other symptoms? Does it happen at a certain revs regardless of gear?
Does it happen when the car is hot or cold?
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My old polo used to suffer with carb icing . In winter when driving in traffic at 40-50 mph if you put your foot down it used to splutter eventually to a halt, after a few secs car would restart OK. Fault would repeat a few miles later. Took me ages to work out what was going on. Fitting new heat pipe fixed problem.
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VW carb icing seems to be 'topic of the moment'. Is it just that old Golfs and Polos are the only cars still left on the road in any great numbers, that are old enough to have carburettors rather than fuel injection? My '83 Polo has run as well as ever in the recent cold snap.
Richard Hall
bangernomics.tripod.com
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Speaking of old polo's, are there any 83/84 vintage ones out there with low mileage/good mechanics with kn$%^&^d body's. Er indoors polo (owned from new) has no rust on the body (never been welded/ original brake pipes) but could do with a mechanical refit. The engine and carb are somewhat tired(150K on one litre) , still running OK (oil changed twice a year, antifreeze every two etc.....) but emmisions tests are now fun. Its debatable if there are more gasses coming out of the oil breather pipe than the ehxaust! Dreading the MOT this year.
Seems a shame to scrap it!
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Why are the Mot emissions difficult?
If it is hydrocarbons in the exhaust, and the crankcase fumes are the source of the problem, temporarily remove the breather pipes and possibly block up the holes. This should satisfy the MoT requirements. But dont breath in whilst taking the car there.
The carbs are very adjustable even when worn so CO should not be problem, and for something of this age the limits are (from memory) 4.5% CO, well above the setup value of 1.5%.
Another possible fix is to make sure the oil is changed just before the MoT and if you cannot get the CO down, try removing the air filter element or as a real bodge just make holes in it!.
All of these make not help it to run perfectly but should suffice for a ticket!
PS Dont just scrap it, advertise it here for peanuts, somebody will want it for the body.
pmh (was peter)
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Thanks for that, If I blocked up the pipe I think the dipstick might enter orbit, I could try disconnecting the pipe and see I get away with it, although with the engine running it will be somewhat obvious, mind you they dont need to run the engine to test brakes - no servo!
The carb can be a bit iffy on the CO reading. Sometimes its fine, other times its all over the place (up and down
). I am wondering if its something to do with the cut off solenoid which no longer seems to work, the solenoid valve could moving backwards and forwards going round corners!(just a theory) When its warmer I'll take it off to have a look. MOT is in April.
The other problem is that mobile emmisions tests are being piloted in this area!
I could even still consider a re-con , its still cheap motoring even paying for this, trouble is where do you stop engine,carb, gearbox, suspension, fuel tank, battery (now overdue, only on third replacement from new). You could easily spend a grand.
It will also be a pig to do as from new most bolts have never been undone! (only 1 clutch and 1 alternator required, cylinder head never removed - antifreeze every two years thanks HJ! ) Some nuts and threads have now disapeared to a cone shaped stub!
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To chec the cut off soleniod just pull the wire off and put it back on (with the ignition on) if you hear a click it should be ok.
When they go they do cause all manners of problems, maybe someone has over-richened the mixture to compensate?
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Had this very problem. Engine failing power at all sorts of random times. Eventually traced to poor connection at spade terminal for solenoid. Pulling off and on didnt orignally show the problem as the action of off/on concealed the poor joint with wire. Re-soldered problem solved. Total time elapsed altogether about six hours!!!!
Happy times Long Ago. Phil I
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