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Me and my boyfriend own a 2000 year Vecrta SRi And for some months now we have been having a problem with is cutting out when you slow down. It dosn't happen all the time just every now and again. It also happens when the engine is warm not just when you have started the journey. What usally happens is you will slow down for traffic lights or traffic and the rev counter will waggle just under on then it will drop and then cut out. We have taken it too two vauxhall dealers in total 7 times in which they have had it on numerous tests but have not come up with anything. We left it at the second dealer for a week in which they used the car every day but of course the problem never happened with either one. Therefore the garages have told there is noting more to be done. The car has had the following components fitted which I have checked with the companies that these should not be making this problem. He has had a superchip, a K & N panel air filter and some UHT leads fitted. If anyone can help with this it would be much appreciated.
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If you took the engine out of the car and let a Vauxhall dealer look at it, they'd plug their computer into the car and if it didn't come out with an error message they'd all be stood around scratching their heads. They'd probably replace the windscreen wipers for a couple of hundred quid and tell you to "try that and bring it back if you have any more problems".
Sorry about the sarcastic reply but that is my and many others experience of Vx dealers.
Does the car have any remaining warranty? You will likely have rendered any dealer warranty invalid by the fact the car has been superchipped unfortunately. It may be worth taking the car to a proper engine diagnostic outfit and paying the 40 quid or similar for them to do a full check on it. These guys will have a significantly better idea of what to look for and much more experience - most Vauxhall dealers seem to employ YTS students who would rather be doing anything but looking at your car. If something doesn't come up when they run a computer check, as far as they're concerned nothing is wrong.
Let us know how you get on!
Dan J
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No the car hasn't got any warrenty left you are spot on about the vauxhall mechanics, we had a front splitter fitted and of course when they had it in for the engine problem one of the kids went and hit it so they had to mend that. We are going to take it to demon tweeks on Saturday as they are the ones that fiited the chip so they said they would try and help I will let you know . Thanks
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Good luck nicola - Demon Tweeks are usually pretty good with things like that and if they can't sort it, they usually know someone who can...
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nicola
Sounds like the classic Vauxhall ecotec Idle Speed Control Valve blockage problem. May also be oily deposits in the throttle body and both need to be checked - the ISCV is bolted to the side of the throttle body. The ISCV may respond to cleaning, but may need replacement (c£150 fitted) Check the search engine on this site, as it's come up more times that enough. I'm amazed this wasn't one of the first things a Vx dealer looked at!
Regards
John S
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Completely agree with John S here. Got to be Idle Control valve.
Nicola, if you surf to www.cavweb.co.uk you will find a Vectra forum. If you post any probs there you'll definitely get responses from knowledgeable Vectra people.
Cheers
p.s. E.C.O.T.E.C = Engine Cuts Out Towards Every Corner (I saw this on CavWweb)
CavV6 and cavWeb fan.
www.cavweb.co.uk
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Nicola, I also agree with John on this one. My Vectra did exactly the same thing,I fitted a new idle control valve 9 months ago and its ran sweet as a nut since.
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Did it do this before the K&N was fitted?
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No we had the air filter fitted after the problem started.
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You'll also need to clean, or drill out, the oil return valve, which goes from the top of the engine into half way down (ish) the throttle body. Its a little brass thing, which prevents any oil going through the air return on top of the engine. When it gets blocked, oil goes through the air pipe, and then through the idle air control valve, blocking it up. You could just change the idle air control valve, however you'll only have the same problem again in a few months time when it gets full of oily rubbish again.
The oil valve gets blocked because it has a hot water jacket around it which bakes the oil solid, like pencil lead. To clean, unscrew the valve (you'll need quite a large spanner), take off the water hoses and drill out the center with a 1.5mm drill (dont use anything bigger), clean with carb cleaner or something and then replace. Clean out the air return hose which comes from the top of the engine, the idle air control valve and the throttle body with some carb cleaner and some old fashioned TLC, then refit.
I had a 1994 2.0 Ecotech Cav with the same problem, so hope this helps.
Graham
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Not actually a "valve", it is just a calibrated vacuum port, but VERY important, and glad someone has mentioned it Graham. The method you describe for clearing it is correct, of course, but due to the time it takes to get the pesky thing out of the manifold, and the risk of coolant leaks on re-assembly, I tend to attack it from the other side after removing the trottle body (four nuts, two minutes). You then have to manipulate the drill with a pair of thin pliers down the inlet manifold apperture, but I do find it quicker and easier.
On some engines this vacuum port is actually sited "round the corner" on the near-side of the throttle housing, much easier still to get to after simply pulling the jose off !
Regards, Adam
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