Cavalier: "Alternator belt passes around engine mounting which requires dismantling before it can be changed."
Yes, a right pain. Made even worse when you don't have a long reach extension bar for your socket set.
"Crankshaft position and camshaft sensors and associated wiring and connectors also prone to faults. Multipin connector to ECU prone to condensation water ingress. " How common is this?
Owned my '91 J reg Cav for three years, 85,000 miles; no electrical gremlins. Owned my '93 L reg Cav for four years, 95,000 miles; only electrical gremin was the auto gearbox selector switch which became intermitant 6 months before I sold it. Both were the 2.0, 8v engine coupled to the Monotronic ECU system.
|
>> Cavalier: >> >> "Alternator belt passes around engine mounting which requires >> dismantling before it can be changed." Yes, a right pain. Made even worse when you don't have a long reach extension bar for your socket set.
Does the alternator belt drive the water pump? How often do they need replacing?
Owned my '91 J reg Cav for three years, 85,000 miles; no electrical gremlins. Owned my '93 L reg Cav for four years, 95,000 miles; only electrical gremin was the auto gearbox selector switch which became intermitant 6 months before I sold it. Both were the 2.0, 8v engine coupled to the Monotronic ECU system.
Ok, will discount that as a flaw.
How easy is the cam belt to replace?
--
These are my own opinions, and not necessarily those of all Toads.
|
Does the alternator belt drive the water pump?
No, thecambelt drives the WP.
How often do they need replacing?
Not to sure. Never replaced the alternator belt on my '91 Cav, and that had done 85,000 miles when sold on.
However on my '93 Cav I changed it at 65,000 miles when I changed the cambelt. Only reason for changing the cambelt early was the waterpump sprung a leak. As a precaution I also changed the alternator belt because of one or two small cracks in the rubber. Afterwards my Vauxhall friend told me that there was a good 30,000 or 40,000 miles left in the alt belt though.
For reference though, my '91 Cav had a standard "V" belt fitted, but on my '93 model it had the multi "V" belt fitted. The standard "v" belt is a lot thicker than the multi "V" belt. The multi "V" belt is a lot wider than the standard "V" belt.
How easy is the cam belt to replace?
A doddle on the 8valve. On my '91 Cav you had to tension it by rotating the waterpump, on my '93 model it had the pre-tensioner fitted. Be careful what the Haynes manual tells you though. It mentions to tension the belt you turn the bolt on the tensioner one way, wheereas in fact you turn it the opposite way to what the manual suggests - could be just a typo, but I also found several other errors in the Haynes maunual for the Cav. If the belt tensioner is fitted, check that it's not worn, and needs replacing.
|
>> Does the alternator belt drive the water pump? No, thecambelt drives the WP.
I *hate* it when they do that!
>> How often do they need replacing?
[snip alt belt not needing changing story.]
Also if it snaps it doesn't matter 'cos all theat happens is your battery stops charging. No sweat if the water pump is still going.
>> How easy is the cam belt to replace? A doddle on the 8valve. [snip lot's of usefull facts]
- Does it need engine mounts undoing like the Rover?
- Will remember Haynes manual is wrong!
DD. I *really* appreciate all this advice! Thanks a million!
--
These are my own opinions, and not necessarily those of all Toads.
|
If the alt belt snaps you also lose the power steering - and air con if you buy a Diplomat or CDX model.
No, you don't need to undo the engine mounts to change cambelt.
The Haynes manual; re, cambelt tensioner info, fairly obvious when the belt slackens instead of tightens when you turn the bolt the dirrection they suggest :o)
|
If the alt belt snaps you also lose the power steering - and air con if you buy a Diplomat or CDX model.
I'd rather do without power steering - one more thing to fail an MOT on.
No, you don't need to undo the engine mounts to change cambelt.
Like my old mans old DAF horsebox. Sweet as the proverbial nut.
The Haynes manual; re, cambelt tensioner info, fairly obvious when the belt slackens instead of tightens when you turn the bolt the dirrection they suggest :o)
I see!!!! but I reckon you may be over-stating my mechanical capabilities!
DD, you are a very useful bloke. I always thought the three pillars of the site were Andrew Moorey, Middleman and Dave Lacey. We clearly have strengh in depth!!!
--
These are my own opinions, and not necessarily those of all Toads.
|
Toad
Anything your are going to buy at that price will be tired but I agree with the other chaps. The vauxhalls are very easy to work on and if you aren't upto it every back street garage in the land knows how to fix them and the parts are cheap. I have a 1.2, 1986 Vxhl Nova - yeah yeah I know what you're thinking but I've grown out of that...sort of - and it is super reliable and costs very little to run. I know a few people with old Astras and they swear by them.
Keep away from the French stuff, although they don't rust as badly as the vauxhalls.
The mondeo is a great car; I had one which required 170 quids worth of rear bushes but that was after 160K miles. It was a 1.6 on a N plate and it was a lovely car, fairly nippy as well. Sold at auction last year for £700, about this time too.
At a £1000 you are entering relatively young Skoda territory. Check out HJ CBCB to see which model to look for.
Good luck!
|
Anything your are going to buy at that price will be tired
Only a few years back a grand would get a XK120 with change... ;-(
The vauxhalls are very easy to work on and if you aren't upto it every back street garage in the land knows how to fix them and the parts are cheap. I have a 1.2, 1986 Vxhl Nova - yeah yeah I know what you're thinking but I've grown out of that...sort of - and it is super reliable and costs very little to run. I know a few people with old Astras and they swear by them.
Thanks Hurman! Confirms other stuff I've heard!
Keep away from the French stuff, although they don't rust as badly as the vauxhalls.
Fraind I can't agree here. A mates 205 GTi was fantastic. At the motor club lot's of people swear by them.
The mondeo is a great car; I had one which required 170 quids worth of rear bushes but that was after 160K miles. It was a 1.6 on a N plate and it was a lovely car, fairly nippy as well. Sold at auction last year for £700, about this time too.
Yeah. My Dad had 5 from new. I like them but you do hear problems about them. If I see one with no rust in my budget I'll prolly go for one. Heart set on the Cav though!
--
These are my own opinions, and not necessarily those of all Toads.
|
>>Fraind I can't agree here. A mates 205 GTi was fantastic. At the motor club lot's of people swear by them.
You're right, a very popular road rally car just a bit light on the front end though which gives bad understeer in the wet. Always wanted one and will have one before I leave this planet. (I was thinking of the 306 when I advised you to steer clear.)
I was recently offered an F reg 309 GTI for £200 in red ...vrrmmm...vrrmmmm but it was going to cost me £350 to insure it - the Nova is currently 180 TPFT! But I was sorely tempted.
Most of the taxis in our area are Cavaliers on M and P plates so they must be reliable. My brother had a 2.0 GLS which he ran for 4 years relatively trouble free and cheaply but he does live in Luton!!
|
Toad,
Hurman is right, most sub £1K stuff needs a fair bit of work. You can either buy under budget and save around £300 for the inevitable first month "foibles" or just thrash it and see (as per Rover).
Your choices....
Mondeo - A tidy petrol with decent trim will be OK.
Cavalier - Ditto
Astra - No!
Escort - No!
Pug 306 - These are well regarded but there is a price premium.
Pug 405 - A good one will be very good, I'd only get a TD.
Granada - No!
You have missed just one possibility I have to mention, a ZX. They are virtually the same as a 306 underneath but have a character balanced a little more towards comfort and tend to fetch less year for year. A TD is a super car, won't pull the ladies though.
If you're set on a Cavalier I'd give that a thumbs up. There are lots of things we can all tell you about them but my main advice would be to avoid one with any sign of rear wheelarch rust. They are prone to this and it looks terrible. Friend has just bought a 1994 2.0 16V with all the gear (ABS etc). Lot of car for the £750 purchase price but it really needs another £500 to get it A1. Tyres, front wishbone bushes, rear handbrake shoes/cables and drums, cam/crank sensors and wiring harness modification. Looks brilliant though in metallic red with no rust, alloys etc. A Toadish 130mph as well!
Feel free to mail re any specifics and remember there is no such thing as an unrepeatable bargain....get practiced at walking away. I'd only look privately by the way, but that's just me.
Good luck.
MM
|
Hurman is right, most sub £1K stuff needs a fair bit of work.
You may have higher standards than me! (most people do) The rover came for 700 quid and apart from cam belt I didn't spend any time or cash on it. I'd say that was repeatable!
You can either buy under budget and save around £300 for the inevitable first month "foibles" or just thrash it and see (as per Rover).
Yeah. I'm aiming for a 500 quid Cav. If it dies I'll buy another one. What I *don't* want to do is creep up the price scale to a point where I can't laugh it off if it dies quickly!
Mondeo - A tidy petrol with decent trim will be OK.
Once such car locally but it's a guy trading from home. I hate those.
Cavalier - Ditto
Astra - No! Escort - No!
- Right! I'll discount those. Smaller cars seem to have a premium anyway!
Granada - No!
- Interesting. Any reason? Non mechanical running costs are not a worry to me.
You have missed just one possibility I have to mention, a ZX. They are virtually the same as a 306 underneath but have a character balanced a little more towards comfort and tend to fetch less year for year. A TD is a super car, won't pull the ladies though.
I'll bear these in mind. Frotunately I use my good looks, charm and compelling personality to impress the ladies! The car is just to get me about! ;-)
main advice would be to avoid one with any sign of rear wheelarch rust.
Yeah. I won't have a car with rust. I don't mind bolting and unbolting things. Rust I can't be bothered with. I'll be giving the rear arches a good look for sure!
Friend has just bought a 1994 2.0 16V with all the gear (ABS etc). Lot of car for the £750 purchase price but it really needs another £500 to get it A1.
If it runs sweet and stops and has a long long long MOT I'm happy!!!
Tyres, front wishbone bushes, rear handbrake shoes/cablesand drums, cam/crank sensors and wiring harness modification.
Wow! Cam/Crank sensors? Are these going wrong in some way on his? I'd have thought they'd either work or not rather than go off gradually? Or are we talking about preventative medicine?
Looks brilliant thoughin metallic red with no rust, alloys etc. A Toadish 130mph as well!
I'd rather have an 8v but you know what they say about beggars and choosers! I will be wanting long MOT though.
Feel free to mail re any specifics and remember there is no such thing as an unrepeatable bargain....get practiced at walking away. I'd only look privately by the way, but that's just me.
Yeah. I prefer to go private - you need confidence in something to sell from your own property. Also I like to look the owner in the eye and ask about cooling/starting problems. People find it hard to lie.
Unfortunately time dicates a look in dealer bargain basements and the *expert* advice I'm taking with me once got a great little car from a dealer 'bargain basement' and I'm reluctant to discount his view. I suspect there will be a combination of all sources.
Good luck.
Many thanks!
--
These are my own opinions, and not necessarily those of all Toads.
|
|
I don't know why people have this thing about French cars. Like you Toad I've run a succession of old cars (10 years old and up), and for the last seven years they've been French. I've never been left stranded in that time, they've been very cheap to run, and are also relatively refined in terms of handling and ride quality. I think this is a perceived quality thing. The trim in French cars tends to be a bit nasty, but in my experience at least, the actual oily bits are top notch. Also, they don't seem to rust until they are very elderly. A friend's 2000 VW Passat has given no end of trouble, but he loves it because the doors clunk nicely. Barmy if you ask me.
|
Chris
Out of Toads list I thought the French cars - apart from the Granada!!(why toad, why?) - would cause him the most expense 'if' anything went wrong, I didn't say they were bad. I ran a 93' M 106 Xs for 3 years and found it to be a super little car and very comfortable. However, compared to my Nova and now my Subaru Impreza it cost a lot to keep going. For example the weld at the front of the CAT failed. The rest of the system was sound but because this weld failed I was looking at the bad side of 200 quid. Fortunately 10 minutes with my welder sorted it but not everyone has one of those in the garage.
This may be a one off but the Subaru - 'P' reg - hasn't had this problem, nor the Nova and that's been round forest rally stages in the North Yorkshire forest.
|
Chris Out of Toads list I thought the French cars - apart from the Granada!!(why toad, why?)
- Granada big, so in little demand due to high petrol/tyre running costs; simple and rear wheel drive. However opinion on HJ's site seems to dictate otherwise!
--
These are my own opinions, and not necessarily those of all Toads.
|
Granada's....If you don't actually need the space or towing ability they seem to be something of a lump every time I drive one.
Last one on my books slipped away when the V6 went tired and the ABS lamp kept flickering. The potential costs of those items were 3x the cars value.
If you can avoid thinking about the problems on a £500 car and just keep driving it then that can be a cheap way until they hit the scrapyard. You are correct too that spending nearer £1K than £500 will make you less inclined to call it a day when that time comes.
The cam/crank sensor issue was one I had to ask Andrew Moorey for advice on. Basic problem on this car is an intermittant engine management warning lamp, can sometimes be cleared by repeated stopping and restarting the engine. There are several possibilities for this...sensor failure, slack timing belt and signals from other components (alternator) hopping across to the sensor wiring within the engine loom. Andrew confirms the total answer is to replace the sensors and re-route their wiring to outside the main loom. Bit of a pig if you are paying someone to do it.
MM
|
"For example the weld at the front of the CAT failed. The rest of the system was sound but because this weld failed I was looking at the bad side of 200 quid. Fortunately 10 minutes with my welder sorted it but not everyone has one of those in the garage."
Good thinking, however, if the system is otherwise soumd and you are not into welding, try your Yellow pages for a local welder.
For £100 total I saved an outlay of £400+ on replacing the car and scooter exhaust systems.
|
|
|
DD, you are a very useful bloke. I always thought the three pillars of the site were Andrew Moorey, Middleman and Dave Lacey. We clearly have strengh in depth!!!
I wouldn't go as far as to say that, but cheers for the compliment.
I agree with your statement about Andrew Moorey, Middleman and Dave Lacey, but I don't think I'm up there on the pillar with them.
Only know about Cav's and Astra's because having previously owned them and maintained them myself. I haven't had to do anything other than wash, wax, and hoover the Vectra so far, so I've absolutely no idea about the oily bits yet. If & when it goes wrong I will take advantage of the 1 yrs warranty left on it :o)
I'm sure there's plenty you could tell me about the Rover 414, that I wouldn't have a clue about :o)
|
Thanks to all for the comments! *Very* useful.
I'll be watching th eengine management warning lights like a hawk on any cavaliers I test!
Only know about Cav's and Astra's because having previously owned them and maintained them myself. I'm sure there's plenty you could tell me about the Rover 414, that I wouldn't have a clue about :o)
Yeah that's the joy of a site like this - oweners who do a bit of their own maintainance are a cracking source of info. And you're right - I know about all the classic Rover traits.
Incidently I take it I can discount large rovers, carltons, senators etc. for much the same reasons as the Granada?
--
These are my own opinions, and not necessarily those of all Toads.
|
Incidently I take it I can discount large rovers, carltons, >> senators etc. for much the same reasons as the Granada?
Large Rovers - unreliable, IMHO.
Carltons - many used as taxis. Again, like the Cavalier, good workhorses.
Senators - previous Police choice for motorway work before the Omega came along.
Granada's - no opinion.
|
I've seen the following in the paper this week.
I know the car by car breakdown is a source of info on these and I will obviously check my shortlist off against the breakdown but some brief notes in the backroom would be helpful!
Any opinions?
205 1.8 Diesel '92
Rover 416i, 218 Diesel. Obviously I know the car - whats the 1.6 and diesel engine like?
Renault 21 Savanna (No further info)
Passat Estate (No further info)
Montego 2.0 Estate.
Daewoo Nexia 1.5 (Late plates are cheap)
Escort 1.4, 1.8 Diesel (Discounted above by MM - any saving graces?)
Golf 1.6/1.8 (Both 92)
Scirocco (Auto) '92
Vauxhall Belmont SRi 1.8
Astra 1.4 CSi
--
These are my own opinions, and not necessarily those of all Toads.
|
Toad,
Ignoring anything about the possible individual condition of these...
205 1.8 Diesel '92 - Very small and flimsy after your Rover.
Rover 416i, 218 Diesel - 1.6 is a flyer with a good engine. The diesel was never brilliant, despite being a Cit/Pug engine they didn't get the installation right and it makes a worse car than a ZX. Don't get a non-turbo...far too slow.
Renault 21 Savanna (No further info) - No!
Passat Estate (No further info) - Usually OK.
Montego 2.0 Estate - OK.
Daewoo Nexia 1.5 (Late plates are cheap) - No, some spares supply issues at present and the parts costs can be wicked..and your local Sunday morning auto store won't have all the bits for them. Also fewer in the breakers than common makes if you need such bits.
Escort 1.4, 1.8 Diesel - 1.4 if you have to but not one that smokes, in this body the diesel feels like it's sitting on your lap...so rough...and most diesels in the £500 range will be shot.
Golf 1.6/1.8 (Both 92) - OK++
Scirocco (Auto) '92 - Interesting, they can make a decent auto with willing engines and a small body. Too cramped for me though, little headroom.
Vauxhall Belmont SRi 1.8 - No! No! Even your charm can't overcome that loss of cred when out on a Sat PM.
Astra 1.4 CSi - Some might like them, I don't.
Where are all the Cavaliers??
MM
|
Ignoring anything about the possible individual condition of these...
Yeah, I wasn't expecting a prediction on th econdition of a car you won't ever see!!!! ;-) They are widely different prices too. Just looking for gen info!
Escort 1.4, 1.8 Diesel - 1.4 if you have to
Ok! Will suffer an Escort if a compelling one comes up!
Golf 1.6/1.8 (Both 92) - OK++
Hmmmm. Excellent! Tend to be over priced but lot's about.
Scirocco (Auto) '92 - Interesting, they can make a decent auto with willing engines and a small body. Too cramped for me though, little headroom.
Thanks! Will consider. (I loved 'em as a kid.)
Vauxhall Belmont SRi 1.8 - No! No! Even your charm can't overcome that loss of cred when out on a Sat PM.
Any "non cred" related disadvantages???
Where are all the Cavaliers??
;-)
I *really* want a cav. Although they are far from rare I need to open up the options in case I can't find a decent Cav this weekend.
As a rule should I avoid automatics?
Only 1 ZX in the paper. 150,000 miles on a diesel.
I'm looking forward to this...
Thanks for the advice!
--
These are my own opinions, and not necessarily those of all Toads.
|
BTW. THe 8v Cavs do have hydrolic tappits, don't they?
--
These are my own opinions, and not necessarily those of all Toads.
|
Vauxhall Belmont SRi 1.8 - No! No! Even your charm can't overcome that loss of cred when out on a Sat PM.
Any "non cred" related disadvantages?
The cred bit gets me so much I can't even discuss them.
As a rule should I avoid automatics?
Well if you find a manual with a decent clutch that has oil up to level in the transmission and runs without excess noise it is most unlikely to fail in a couple of years.
With an auto they can suddenly stop changing gear properly and if it isn't simply fluid level (or perhaps condition)...well you're going to be driving it to the breakers.
I only thought the Scirroco Auto OK because we tore the backside off a Passat Auto (1.8 carb) for 20K a while ago and it was much more lively than you would have expected. Having said that when it started taking three miles to slur into top, and a fluid change didn't help, we got rid.
All the Vauxhalls you'll look at will be hydraulic tappets, I think there are just some of the commercials and the Nova/Corsa 1.0 that are manually set.
MM
|
Any "non cred" related disadvantages? The cred bit gets me so much I can't even discuss them.
- I've just laughed out loud in a silent lab. ;-) Now everyone thinks I'm mad and my cred has reduced beyone SRi levels! You don't see many and I hate them so I'll forget it!
[snip auto-discussion]
That's been my attitude before. I don't want an Auto. However *if* a perfect auto came along I might risk it. I happen to like Scirrocos a lot form my youth but I suspect lack of comfort would be a problem *and* I've only seen one advertised.
All the Vauxhalls you'll look at will be hydraulic tappets, I think there are just some of the commercials and the Nova/Corsa 1.0 that are manually set.
Excellent! Thanks once again!
--
These are my own opinions, and not necessarily those of all Toads.
|
BTW. THe 8v Cavs do have hydrolic tappits, don't they?
LOL, hydraulic lifters actually. Or more commonly known in the trade, shirt lifters.
A doddle to change as well. You can do the job in situ with only having to remove the rocker box cover. Lazer do a tool to compress the valve so you can get them out one at a time. Exhaust valve lifter on cylinder 4 can be a tight squeeze to get out though.
|
>> BTW. THe 8v Cavs do have hydrolic tappits, don't they? LOL, hydraulic lifters actually.
Thanks! Will write out hydraulic 500 times!
--
These are my own opinions, and not necessarily those of all Toads.
|
Toad,
Pleased you've seen sense about the Belmont, and with apologies to anyone who owns or aspires to one....
Picture a winter evening in a charming old pub. Toad's been eyeing up chunky Cotswold crumpet all night and realises by 11pm action is needed.
Toad (with his usual slick intro): Come on love, get your coat...you've pulled.
Cotswold Crumpet: Have you got a car with you, I never ride pillion!
T: No problem, you'll be safe with me.
CC: What is it then, BMW?
T: Errr no it's a Belmont, very rare so you won't know what it's like.
CC: Yeah right, my Grandad had one for a while but sold it because the image was too naff for him....thanks anyway but I've got a better offer...there's a bloke over there with a Lada Riva!
;-)
MM
|
LOL!!!!
"chunky Cotswold crumpet"
Oh dear. You know me better than I thought. Known to my mates as god's gift to ugly women.
I'm encouraged that you reckon a Belmont will get me record levels of interaction from the fairer sex! Normally it's just a curt "sling your hook." ;-)
--
These are my own opinions, and not necessarily those of all Toads.
|
Will write out hydraulic 500 times!
I wasn't laughing about your spelling Toad. I was laughing cos I thought you were ribbing me about the tappets/lifters discussion in the Tech forum.
|
TOTH
"Normally it is sling your hook"
Can you blame them? Observing the mating habits of Toads in spring they do tend to cling on for a long time. But what is more worrying is that they are not particular as to what sex they cling onto.
DVD
|
Dynamic Dave: Cooincidence - hadn't seen it!
But what is more worrying is that they are not particular as to what sex they cling onto.
Nobody would call me choosy. But I draw the line at that!
--
These are my own opinions, and not necessarily those of all Toads.
|
Toad, why not another Rover 200/400? It'll save you the cost of a new Haynes manual at least.....
Seriously, the Honda engined 1.6 cars (216/416) seem a lot more mechanically durable than the 1.4 K series. They sound very clattery especially from cold, but you can use this to bargain the price down, if the vendor doesn't realise that they all do that. I find them a bit buzzy and harsh-riding for long distance motorway work, but they strike me as very good value these days. I did a lot of miles in a borrowed 216GSi automatic and liked it.
Richard Hall
bangernomics.tripod.com
|
Toad, why not another Rover 200/400? It'll save you the cost of a new Haynes manual at least.....
No discounted at them all! Save me both manual and roof bars. I just don't need to ask about them 'cos I know a fair bit about 'em!!!!!
Seriously, the Honda engined 1.6 cars (216/416) seem a lot more mechanically durable than the 1.4 K series. They sound very clattery especially from cold, but you can use this to bargain the price down, if the vendor doesn't realise that they all do that. I find them a bit buzzy and harsh-riding for long distance motorway work, but they strike me as very good value these days. I did a lot of miles in a borrowed 216GSi automatic and liked it.
Thanks 'cos I didn't know much abou the 1.6 at all!!!
--
These are my own opinions, and not necessarily those of all Toads.
|
BTW, I checked out your fine banger site.
There wasn't a specific list of questions and tests - the info was very general.
Do you know of such a list?
For instance I would start with:
Question's
No. of owners.
Mileage
Is the car registered in your name.
MOT
Reason for Sale
How long have you owned it.
Checks:
Tyres
Sills
Drive Shaft Boots
Compression test (Is this over kill?)
Listen for rattles at all revs
Coolant
Oil
Brake noise
Does it drive straight with hands off wheel
Ditto under braking.
Can anyone either add to my list or point me to a complete one.
--
These are my own opinions, and not necessarily those of all Toads.
|
My local paper small ads I noticed last night, 216GTI,1 lady owner, retiring from driving, FSH, always garaged, price was well less than a grand, but can't remember accurately.
I remember these GTI's being quite quick and nice inside when they were new.
You anywhere near Ashford (Kent)?
|
My local paper small ads I noticed last night, 216GTI,1 lady owner, retiring from driving, FSH, always garaged, price was well less than a grand, but can't remember accurately.
Gatwick. Not a million miles.
Remember how much mot it had?
--
These are my own opinions, and not necessarily those of all Toads.
|
Incidently, can anyone tell me if the 8v/16v Cavs suffer damage if the cam belt snaps?
What about my other choices?
--
These are my own opinions, and not necessarily those of all Toads.
|
Incidently, can anyone tell me if the 8v/16v Cavs suffer damage if the cam belt snaps?
Unsure of 16v's. With the 8v's it's a 50/50 gamble. I've heard some stories of no damage whatsoever, and other people who have totally trashed the engine - bent valves, cracked pistons, cracked valve guides. I think some of this is dependant on how fast you were going at the time. Engine ticking over and you'll probably be lucky - belting down the motorway and BANG.
|
Bum, Sorry, forgot to look in paper last night - will tonight and post more info
Andy
|
|
|
|
