|
Try flshing the cooling system first... as a cheaper alternative. On eof the proprietary flsuhing agents will do. You MAY have silted up waterways as it is an aluminium block and they corrode if you don't use the correct antifreeze.
You did check the antifreeze was of the correct strength? And not past its sell by date.
You checked the thermostat , radiator etc so it's not them.. If it's bubbles, sounds like exhaust gasses. Try a sniffer test to check for gas in the water.
Edited by madf on 29/07/2010 at 17:36
|
|
Any problem caused by the above will make it run hot not spit water out.In fact none of the above will cause your problem .
|
|
|
Try flshing the cooling system first... as a cheaper alternative. On eof the proprietary flsuhing agents will do. You MAY have silted up waterways as it is an aluminium block and they corrode if you don't use the correct antifreeze.
You did check the antifreeze was of the correct strength? And not past its sell by date.
You checked the thermostat , radiator etc so it's not them.. If it's bubbles, sounds like exhaust gasses. Try a sniffer test to check for gas in the water.
Thanks, for the advice, the coolant was very green, had been topped up just before i bought the car cheap with a view to an inexpensive repair to the engine and a cheap second car, I'm actually working and living with my brit family in Oman so anti freeze not required, however the water quality is poor and could as you say be corrosion. How do you do a sniff test? there is not a lot of gear out here, would holding a flame to the bubbles be a sensible suggestion, goes out, exhaust, pops mixture, just a thought, still trying to find skim limits. heads been off twice, thinking of skimming again with better finish in case ridges causing blow by the gasket. Just for info, the water seems to heave out the expansion chamber after running for a few minutes, no evidence of water out the exhaust as steam or leqaks from the side of the block, cheers, Mike.
|
|
That normally means it has gone between two water ways.You need the correct equipment to do a sniff test.If the block is not ok it does not matter how many times you shave the head the problem will stay.Don,t forget if you keep shaving the head you will increase the compression ratio unles you compensate with a thicker head gasget.
|
|
Hello Andy, does this mean, if there is corrosion in the block and the water is not circulating and cooling because it's effectively taking a shortcut, or do you mean the gasket has blown between the head and the block? if the former is the case that would write the car off as exchange engines are more than the car's worth, cheers, mike
|
|
|
|
|
How many miles has it done? If its a lot, could need a new radiator. If it is actually boiling rather than being pushed out by combustion pressure it will be a cooling system problem not the engine..
Done 117,000 Kilometers so Iguess thats about 80 K miles, in Oman with poor water quality, there was lots bof coolant in the rad, yes the water heaves out of the radiator if run with cap off, laterly producing smallish bubbles, wondering if residual or gasses, pressurises big time if cap on just vents out the header tank, any ideas of flush agent to use? Cheers, Mike.
|
|
They're well known for the liners shifting in the block. No cure except a new engine.
|
|
|
|
They're well known for the liners shifting in the block. No cure except a new engine.
|
|
Hi, bad news then, how do i check for the liners having moved, or is there no check? like to try everything before throwing it away.
Thanks, Mike.
|
|
You really need the engine out ,
I meant the gasget has blown between a cylinder and a water way but I still think if the head was shaved properly the problem is in the block either the liners have shifted or there is a crack but you need both testing .There used to be plenty of companies in the emirates who do block repairs but you are stabbing in the dark without the full tools and test apparatus,you cannot keep on building up and stripping down an engine to get back to square one.I would have thought there are plenty of back street garages who would fit a a replacent chrysler or chevy engine or even repair yours. Second hand cars used to very cheap is that still the case I bought a Caddie for peanuts and ran it for two years in Saudi.
|
|
Andy, thanks for all that, much appreciated.
|
|
You need to establish if the bubbles are combustion products as Andy has pointed out, or is it actually boiling. Has the water pump been checked. Regards Peter
|
|
Hello peter, no, the water pump has not been checked, I think that would be a good idea, what sort of defect could be evident on removal that might cause such a problem?
Can the pump be tested by cranking the engine and checking the output, or is it a removal?
Regarding the liners moving in the block, I did have a very good look at the top of the block on removing the heads,( both times) and all looked well, but would you see obvious signs of movement?
Thaks so far, and regards, Mike.
|
|
The simpliest test is to remove the pump output coolant pipe and crank the engine to see if it forced the water out. IF not then pump removal time. Do you know if the pump on that engine has a composite propeller rether then case metal. The former have a happit of letting go of the shaft. Have you had the header tank sniffed, or coolant checked for combustion products. Regards Peter
|
|
Thanks everyone for all the good advice, i'm currently 1k miles to the south of the car and won't be back til next saturday but at least there are a few ideas to be getting on with. my wife returns from summer holidays in the uk on 15th so can hand carry bits for repair. no chance of sniffing anything out here as equipment next to non existant.
where and what number is the best source of bits if an improvement on paddocks, cheers, mike
|
|
|
|
