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It's a manual choke, but it isn't the choke that's affecting it, i pull the choke out briefly just to start it, then by the time i have reversed out of the garage i can push it back in and it'll tick over. Last night just to make sure, i did this then drove straight off, just to make sure i wasn't imagining it i actually put my foot down when pulling away and it accelerated away in 1st very rapidly with just a tiny amount of throttle, then second gear the same,pulled for ages before changing to 3rd, i know it's only a 1.1 but they are quite nippy, whenever i drove one back in the day i was always surprised how sprightly they were for a 1.1.
The car has only done 33k too. Anyway, i don't think the choke has anything to do with it, i dont drive it with the choke on and it's definetly going off properly.
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The air cleaner spout on these has two positions-winter and summer-make sure it's in the summer position-end of spout away from exhaust manifold.It can stay there even in the winter unless you get "carb freezing".Cold air will improve both performance and economy.
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Hi,thanks for the replies so far, even if i have already tried most of the sugestions.
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Edited by AJP on 09/06/2010 at 19:50
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Very strange, they are a simple enough engine, the only other thing that occurs to me is fuel starvation, when the performance drops off again try removing the fuel filler cap and see if it 'whooshes' if so the vent is blocked up and you have a vacuum forming which gradually reduces the available fuel.
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I have tried summer and winter settings, makes no difference.
One thing i did notice yesterday, i got back turned the car off and could here a kind of bloop bloop bloop noise, i walked all round the car and couldnt pinpoint it, it eventually died down and stopped, i shook the car and it came back for a couple of seconds then stopped again. where is the vent, is it in the cap? could it really cause a problem like mine?
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I believe its in the cap, not certain though, it could certainly cause your symptoms, only its not the temperature rise that's causing it, its the vacuum building up in the tank, reducing the fuel supply , try running it wwithout the cap - let us know how you get on.
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It sounds like it`s running rich to me. I think if it were mine, I would pull the spark plugs after a hard run and check the colour. (without letting it tick over)
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I took it for a drive without the cap on, it did it's normal thing and drove good at first, it seemed to drive good for longer though this time, although eventualy it started to lack power, as you probably know,describing running problems is difficult at the best of times, when it drives good you can accelerate and keep pushing the pedal down and it keeps on accelerating the more you push the pedal, the problem is after a while you can only push the pedal so far before it doesn't respond as good, it'll kind of make more noise but doesn't respond to the extra throttle. So anyway,back to what i was saying, it seemed to go a little longer, i must have gone about a couple of miles, funny things is, i got out to pop in a shop, was in there about 1-2 mins, came back out started back up and it drove of good again, then the problem comes back, i drove to another shop, came out,good again,you get the idea. Put the cap back on as i didnt think it made any difference.
I got home took plugs out and they appear to be a light grey colour, funny thing is, only the top of the electrode seems to have burned, after the curve, the part that is joined to the plug from the plug to the curve is black, i'm sure they usually burn all the way down.
[IMG]i61.photobucket.com/albums/h42/andypandy_2006/DSCF...g[/IMG]
[IMG]i61.photobucket.com/albums/h42/andypandy_2006/DSCF...g[/IMG]
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Grey usually means the car is running a bit lean
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those plugs might be more uniform grey, if they were pulled after a longer run.
Are the valve clearances correct?
Worth checking anyway as they are not mentioned. you could also go back to basics and check the cylinder compressions - if only to exclude that.
Then, it`s back to fuel and sparks.
What`s it`s history? Is It`s not been run low on oil, partially seized and is `tightening up ` when it`s hot?
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I don't know about valve clearances, i'd mess something up worse if i messed inside the engine, someone suggested it could be a seal or gasket problem, carb or inlet manifold.
I dont know if it's ever been run low on oil, i have only had it since last august and only just got it on the road. Was owned by a woman from new prior to me, but dont know any history,
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Valve clearances will close up over time and need to be checked yearly. As the engine heats up, the pushrods/valves will expand and the clearance will reduce.
If the clearance goes 'negative' then the valvetrain will hold the valves open all the time, resulting in poor compression. You will also damage the valves, because the heat that's soaked into them during the combustion process won't dissipate properly like it would do if they had regular contact with the valve seat.
If you can't/don't know how to do them, then take them to your backstreet garage. Should be easy enough though - 8 bolts on the rocker cover then a 11mm (?) spanner to tweak them open/closed until they're right.
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Have you checked the anti run on valve? It is an electric valve which opens the manifold to atmosphere. If the solenoid is weakening, it will be leaking air in and giving you a very weak mixture.
It's a long time since I had a Mk1 Fiesta but I think you will find it mounted near the wing. A small valve with a wire mesh top, an electrical connection and a rubber tube leading to the inlet manifold. Disconnect the tube from the valve and stop it up with something (I think I used a screwdriver) and try the car then.
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I used to take the plugs out, put it in gear and shove it backwards and forwards to do the tappets. Can`t remember the clearences though. it`s 18yrs or so ago. You could do to know the compressions.
Mine had the awful autochoke - with the `clock spring` in the coolant.
Any tips on how to erase memories of incidents with that would be appreciated.... ;-)
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i did my head gasket last week and whilst it was off i cleaned the rocker shaft assembly too, put it all back together,did the valve clearances but now it is tappety as hell, even though it was virtually silent before,after doing the clearances the gaps are tighter,so why all the tapping.
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Sounds like a blocked petrol filter to me.
Works OK under choke but fuel starvation at speed.
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i never said it works ok under choke, what i said was, i use the choke for a min to get it ticking over, push the choke in, once it's idling i drive it off and it's great until the engine warms up properly, which isnt that long. Now i have the tappety noise too, which is probably due to cleaning 30 years worth of crud off the rocker assembly, but even setting the valve clearances wont quieten it now,it does a bit but not as silent as it was.
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