can some body help me i have a corsa gsi 95 model, it has a immobiliser and the way it works i have to put the key in turn the ignition to the 2nd stage where all the light come on the dash and then press a botton on a remote fob which will make the engine warning light come on and in which case makes it ok to start it.
i tried to start it today and when im pressing the botton but the engine light has not come on, ive tried changing the battery in the fob and ive disconnected the battery for a hour and still no joy the immobiliser looks to be a factory fitted one no pirate cutting or odd wires.
can anybody help me please. lee
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 01/11/2009 at 18:15
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Have you tried a different key?
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only have the one key for ignition, there is no chip inside the key either. lee
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you do not have a factory fit alarm/immobilizer (or if you have, then you have a system over and above the standard fittment) if you can post the name of make and the model number then someone maybe able to pm you with a bypass of some description, Regards TB
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i dont think it is standard, but the only thing i can see which looks like it bean adaped is the wire for the starter motor in my ignition that goes into the barrel, there is a black wire( coming from inisde the dash)
all that says on the fob is.. MPT 1340
W.T. LICENCE
EXEMPT
model RK 113
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ill repeat that, the starter wire that comes from the barrel coil has bean snipped and a black wire has bean connected to it and goes deep into the dash, the other end of the starter wire has also got a black wire connected to it, no doupt for the same thing. so im thinking that will be for the immobliliser, can i not take this black wire out of the equation and reconnect the starter wires as they should be? and if not i can easily reconect the black wires the way it is now
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From your description ,I would think that the car is fitted with an add-on 2 point immobiliser.1 of the wires on the back of the ignition switch is probably the starter cut but there will probably be a second cut to the fuel injection system.Take a look behind the plastic trim panel ,to the right of the accelerator pedal,to see if any cuts have been made to the fuel pump relay.(usually purple).hth
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there is only the starter wire cut at the top but ill check the wire youve discribed when my battery has charged. what ive done is cut away the two add on wires and reconnected the starter wire the way it is ment to be it was turning over but then my battery died :s so you think i will have a second chopped wire near my ecu where the throttle pedel is?
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it could be as simple as a blown bulb,,,u say u have to wait til light comes on then press button,,if bulb is blown,,it will not come on ,rendering your button useless,,some american GM cars have this,,they call them idiot lights,,,if it lights:immob is off and car will start. If light does not come on=bulb blown=break in immob circuit=car wont start.Replace bulb and circuit is complete again and car starts.One guy(to cut out all fiddlin behind dash for bulbs)fitted wired connections from bulb holder all way throo to just under bonnet catch at the grill,fitted bulb holder there,,,,,any time car wouldnt start,popped bonnet,checkd bulb and if blown,replaced,,no need for clocks out,,confused a few garage mechanics tho.....sorry for the long reply,but u never know what people have done to thier cars for the sake of security,,,hope it helps in some way,??saves choppin wires throo yer dash loom,,,,,,,Eddie
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its his immobilizer Eddie.T. ive had to do loads on corsa at this kind of age over the years.
They wear out and as said if fitted properly by mrs thatcheMs workers take a little bit of taking out,i always used to take out the parcel shelf and glove box to get to the fuel pump wires that were neatly spliced
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I do realise its his immobiliser,,and i do appreciate all the hard work/fiddly muckin about involved in getting to and fixing these problems,,he mentioned that he had to wait for the light before preeing the button on his fob,,no light could be stopping trigger from fob???only a suggestion as it brought to mind the above mentioned essay i wrote( lol)doesnt cost to check bulb??if blown its circuit is broken,,if u see where i am coming from???as i said it is only a suggestion and i am no expert by any means,as i have and am still asking advice from here myself??you are probly right tho,,!! cheers,,,,Eddie
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thanks for the replys guys, it all started when i removed the head unit i noticed that the radio wires have all bean very bodged and pirate connected but i did not think anything of it as i was in a hurry to get some where, anyway its when i put the head unit back in is where it decided to stop working, i guess i could try a bulb before ripping pannels off and checking wires. lee
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probably the live for the immobilizer was sourced at the radio permanent live or the hazard flasher light then
be careful in there vaux were really tight on wire lengths
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ive fixed the fault it was a dodgey eary burried benieth the carpets, thanks you all your replys
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whats a dodgy earwig go to do with it?
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i dont think so mate it was earthed under the carpets at the passanger side and the screw was not tight enough so i tightend it and it was spot on
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