The gear lever in my Fiesta has, I think, recently lost its spring because when in neutral, it moves left to right quite freely (ie. looser than before).
I believe this in itself is not a major problem, but more recently, I've noticed:
- trying to shift into 3rd or 4th gear can be hit and miss, with grinding / crunching
- the clutch pedal sometimes feel as if the spring has gone (that is, it feels loose until 1-2 inches from the bottom) before I could select a gear
- selecting reverse almost always reaquiring further attempts (pressing clutch pedal down more) and also crunches
Of more concern is the last few hundred yards from my drive home on Friday evening - I had trouble selecting any of the gears, but eventually managed to find second. If of any relevance, the clutch pedal sometimes feel that it's rubbing / clicking against the brake pedal (mechnically, internally).
I got the car checked out yesterday, and was advised the clutch seems to be OK, except maybe the hydraulics. They suggested it's most likely to be a gearbox problem.
Would you guys agree with this diagnosis? Would topping up gear oil make any difference? If so, how would I go about this?
Thanks for any advice.
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A few tests that might help identify the problem area/s a little better.
1. Press clutch down wait 30 seconds, try and engage 1st gear
2. Engage 1st and hold clutch down for 30 seconds
3. Pump clutch a few times before you try and engage 3rd or 4th gear
4. Is the crunch when changing up or changing down (or is it worse one way or the other)
Topping up the gear oil will not help and you don't state that the gearbox is noisy, other than when engaging the gears. My guess would be clutch slave cylinder (or possibly the master cylinder) as I don't believe it has a cable clutch (I think earlier ones did though).
One time you used to be able to rebuild the cylinders for a few pounds (master cylinder) if you can get the seals and the bores are not scored, I doubt this is still the case today. The slave cylinder is best bought as a complete brand new unit.
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davecuk
It is an hydraulic clutch and worse still, it is a concentric slave cylinder! ie the gearbox has to come out to replace it. Book time is 3hr+ job, depending on whether Power steering is fitted.
Edited by pmh3 on 20/09/2009 at 23:13
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pmh3 - the guy who diagnosed the problem said if they needed to work on clutch hydraulics, the gearbox will have to come out anyway.
How much would a job like this cost me?
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Thanks davecuk for the reply.
I assume the above tests are to be performed when the engine is on?
What am I to expect scenarios 1 and 2?
Am I to prform test # 3 from standstill or in motion?
Regarding the crunch, it is intermittent when trying for third or fourth gear, but almost always the case when putting into reverse gear.
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1. You won't be able to get it in gear, or it will grind like anything
2. The car will slowly start to creep forward as the clutch engages
3. Perform whilst the car is in motion.
It's a quick rage of tests for the Hydraulics in the slave or Master cylinder. It covers range of movement, then leakage past the seals. e.g. trouble getting it in gear, or car creeping forwad as clutch self engages.
Unfortunately it sounds like an expensive job when looking at the man hours estimate and unfortunately I think in all probability it is the clutch hydraulics. Oh and just in case although I am sure you would have done this, ensure a new pressure plate, thrust bearing and clutch plate is fitted at the same time (plus anything else required in that area).
Edited by davecuk on 21/09/2009 at 01:24
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I've tried tests 1 and 2 outlined by davecuk; not really tried number 3 yet.
I didn't notice those results. I did however get another garage to check it out, and was advised it is most likely to be the pressure plate as the clutch feels light on ocassions (but more tighter near the bottom) when it has warmed up. Suggested around £240 all in for new clutch - does this sound reasonable?
Another person thinks it maybe the clutch bearings.
If of any relevance, I noticed that when idling, you can hear the engine whirring, but when I depress the clutch, the car becomes near silent - what does this mean?
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when idling, you can hear the engine whirring, but when I depress the clutch, the car becomes near silent - what does this mean?
it may be the clutch bearings.
Noise which disappears when the clutch is pressed is likely to be the bearing.
In my experience if the car jumps out of gear whilst being driven - it's the gearbox.
If you are having difficulty engaging gears either on the move or at a standstill - it's the clutch.
If you can move the gear selector into each gear with ease when the engine is switched off and the car is at rest, this would support the clutch argument.
£240 fitted for a new clutch assembly sounds reasonable to me, yes. If you have to dismantle the clutch assembly for any reason it's always sensible to renew the components whilst you've got it all apart - this will save further grief in 6 months or a year's time.
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Having done further research and gained some more opinions on the issues I've encountered, it appears to be leaning towards clutch bearings and pressure plates. However, I'm confused as to what to do next;
- an independent chain of autocentres suggested that I should get the hydraulics done at the same time as getting new clutch fitted (around £310 all in)
- the local garage mechanic thinks only the clutch needs doing (for £240), but could also do hydraulics for £320 all in
- a mechanic of a mate at work says can do clutch for £250, which includes the slave cylinder (hydraulics?) and that clutch & slave comes as one package?
Problem is, my MOT is due in just over a week - how much does it cost now and should I get clutch done before or after MOT?
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I have also been advised that the brake / clutch fluid tank is full and seems in order; apparently this rules out it being a hydraulics problem?
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Unless it's the master cylinder, but you say you did the tests, so it's probably not.
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By the way your first problem (the spring) is internal to the gearbox on these later Fords. Requires a strip down (not hard) but takes time (not cheap).
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Can anyone recommend a good quality clutch (with cylinder / hydraulics - do they always come as a package?) for my fiesta 1.25 Zetec?
How much would it cost? Just wondering whether it's worth buying the part myself and just paying for labour for local mechanic to get it fittted.
mfarrow - you mention the spring - are you referring to the clutch that I said 'feels as it's lost its spring'? If so, I'm led to believe this may be attributable to the pressure plate (especially when warmed up)?
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mfarrow - you mention the spring - are you referring to the clutch
No, I'm referring to the gear lever swinging freely from side to side when in neutral.
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Thanks for clarifying Mike. I've done a search and found this thread regarding the gearstick return spring
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=34309
Looks like an expensive job just to have the springs replaced. Am I right leaving it unattended will not have any long term adverse effects?
Also, I'm still unsure as to whether to get the MOT done before or after I get the clutch replaced.
SQ
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 25/09/2009 at 11:08
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