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03 2.0HDi Cutting Out - MonkeyMan
anybody have any ideas what could be the problem?

sometimes the car starts, sometimes it won't. sometimes it cuts out whilst driving but will start back up.

it displays no faults, diagnostic machines can find no faults but still problem persists.

fuel delivery pressure from intank pump is 278 (is this correct pressure?)

when ignition is on/ car cuts out there is a whining noise from the front (sounds like no fuel is getting to engine)

if anybody can shed any light please let me know. it is getting quite frustrating as i do not feel safe taking the car on long journeys as i don't often get signal on my mobile to call RAC!!

thanks

Edited by Dynamic Dave on 11/09/2008 at 01:31

03 2.0HDi Cutting Out - Screwloose
MM

Has it been on a dealer-level scanner? Very unusual for such a sophisticated self-diagnosis system to store nothing - but all the code memories are hard to access.

These don't show primary [tank] pump pressure; the rail pressure on a Bosch system should be 298 bar at idle. [Pressure is well monitored - expect multiple codes if that's the problem.]

Does it stall coming to a junction - or cut dead at speed? How long does it take to restart? Anything else, other than the engine cut out at the same time?

Anything been tried? Crank sensor? Fusebox?
03 2.0HDi Cutting Out - MonkeyMan
Screwloose

had crank sensor done. snap on graphics scannner showed nothing. took to dealer - no apparent fault.

it can cut out at junctions (though it won't stall as such - its like it just turns itself off), it can cut out whilst driving.

sometimes it will restart straight away. sometimes it can take hours.

sometimes when it does start, it cuts out within a few seconds.

apart from the whining noise there seems to be no other problem, no faults showing on screen or otherwise.

sometimes it just won't start, other times it will be perfect.

its baffling
03 2.0HDi Cutting Out - Screwloose

If there really are no codes [and I'm still surprised by that?] then it's testing by elimination.

Possible candidates:-
Tank pump - very common. [But why no codes??]
Injector fault - do leak-off test. [Again; should leave codes?]
Fusebox/ign switch fault cutting power to the ECU - that won't store codes.

Exactly where does this whining come from and does it do it at a normal key-on, or only post-fault?

Has this been re-mapped? That can [has to] cripple the self-diagnosis.
03 2.0HDi Cutting Out - MonkeyMan
i dont know if this is relevant but when the car was put on the diagnosic machines, it ran fine and would not cut out. (sods law - when we want it to play up it won't)

the whining comes when the car is running and usually just before it cuts out

you know when the car is not going to start when you turn on ignition before turning it over, it will make a clicking noise

Edited by MonkeyMan on 11/09/2008 at 18:02

03 2.0HDi Cutting Out - Screwloose
MM

Where does the clicking come from?
03 2.0HDi Cutting Out - MonkeyMan
whining and click come from H/P fuel pump on engine.

hasn't been remapped or tuned

Edited by MonkeyMan on 11/09/2008 at 18:33

03 2.0HDi Cutting Out - Screwloose
MM

Right; now it's getting interesting. So, if it isn't going to start; there's a clicking from the HP pump area.

How long does this clicking last after key-on?
03 2.0HDi Cutting Out - MonkeyMan
only once or twice then stops and if you try to start the car after it won't turn over
03 2.0HDi Cutting Out - Screwloose
MM

Are you saying that it won't crank over on the key?
03 2.0HDi Cutting Out - MonkeyMan
no it will crank over but not fire up. it is if there is no fuel and the high pressure pump whines.
03 2.0HDi Cutting Out - MonkeyMan

still cutting out but no joy testing ignition switch cos it is starting first time at the moment
03 2.0HDi Cutting Out - can doo

I have had the same thing happen to me. engine would cut out when at idle, could re start it would idle for about 15-20 sec then cut out, or some tomes not start at all.

Located problem to be reverse light switch on gearbox , the terminals are supposed to be isolated from outer casing of switch, however I checked mine with multimeter and found meg homes on one terminal to body of switch, other terminal in k ohms to body of switch.

Found the circuit F1 10A under the bonnet, that feeds reverse light switch also effects other things such as Vehicle speed sensor, and Water in diesel sensor .

Proved it was the fault by un plugging connector to switch, car started fine and idled without cutting out.

The reverse light switch is in a position that can hold liquid around body of switch,and it appears in my case the liguid had slowly got into switch body and caused errors to be fed to computer. New switch has been siliconed around plastic part of switch where it meets the brass switch body to stop any future problem.