Hi please help!!
I have these codes on my 406 hdi
P0090 Fuel Pressure Regulator 1 control circuit
P0088 Fuel Rail/system Pressure too high
Car starts and stops with in 10 to 20 seconds. When the pressure reaches 230 Kpa it always stops. I have good idea the pressure switch on the common rail (middle section) or the wiring loom is faulty. May be open circuit.
If I need to change the switch, what is the required torque...? I understand it is high pressure area. I need to be careful.
The car was ok the day before; I drove about 20 miles and park the car now this problem starts.
I can clear the fault codes but comes on again.
The fuel quality was poor and it must have damage this high pressure switch.
What is the resistance on this switch terminal? (Not on the wiring loom, just on the switch on its own.)
Thanks
Edited by Pugugly on 31/08/2008 at 14:33
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Veg-car
You've gone completely astray here; the FRP sensor is pretty bullet-proof - backtrack and start again.
First; what read those codes? Very odd to see those on an '04 - treat them with caution? I'd expect PSA-specific P1xxx codes, which are far more detailed and useful.
You've got the right area; low fuel pressure. The odd codes are just being generated by a baffled ECU - that's it's best guess.
So; Bosch or Siemens system on this one?
What's this "fuel quality was poor" reference? Thise will only run on quality pump diesel - they don't even like supermarket fuel.
What have you been trying and have you blocked the filter/trashed the pump/split the o-rings/destroyed the suction valves/or ruined the [Piezo?] injectors in the process?
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EngineCheck
www.enginecheck.co.uk
These codes and fuel pressure (while engine running) were taken from this program.
I seen the same fault codes when I took it to the Peugeot specialist form his code reader. May not the same number but same explanation.
It is Bosch system.
When I start first time I can hear the fuel pump (in tank) running. And car starts. Then stops with in 20 seconds or so. Then I re- start I will not hear the pump running and car will not start. I will have to wait few min to try again. This time I can here the pump running and car will starts.
ECU stopping in tank pump, therefore fuel not gets in to the high pressure pump.
I notice when the pressure reach to 230 kpa it is always stop. This mean the pressure regulator is not working.
I guess when it is running normally pressure is around 190 or so.. I am not so sure.
In tank pump is always working there is no problem with it. When ever it is running fuel always reach to the high pressure bump. Fuel Filter is new.
Only problem on the high pressure area. Return path is ok. There is no leak
I think injectors are ok. I was driving 20 miles day before all fine. Firing sound good and even.
I may have used the poor quality fuel from supermarket but I am not sure
Thanks
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Veg-car
The rail pressure at idle is 298 bar - not kPa. At full throttle it's 1350 bar.
If the tank pump stops, so will the engine. You now need to test the 12v feed on wire number 121 to the tank pump to see if it's the tank pump failing, or if the feed disappears.
The fuel pressure regulator can do nothing if there is no fuel to regulate.
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Hi thanks for that. Today I empty the tank bleed the all fuel lines and new filter and fill with diesel. And I still have same problem.. Tomorrow I re-set the faults and see. But I want to know what the resistance of the switch on the common rail. I am going to measure it soon and see the reading is normal for a car when the engine is not running.
In tank pump is working. But stop after 10 to 15 seconds as before.
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I think you will find that this is a fault with the high pressure fuel pump that is driven off the cambelt.The reason the in-tank pump is shutting down is because the high pressure pump is unable to deliver minimum critical pressure and thus the system pressure sensor will signal the Ecu to stop engine.Key off,engine off and then key on will restart the system for another 10-15 seconds.I have recently had the same car with exactly the same symptons and a new hi-pressure pump fixed the fault.hth
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Veg-car
Have you done this test from my previous post?
You now need to test the 12v feed on wire number 121 to the tank pump to see if it's the tank pump failing, or if the feed disappears.
The rail pressure sensor should read 0.5 volts on the centre pin with the key on and the engine off. It will; so don't obsess about it - it's not the problem.
Your test equipment can only access a tiny sector of the fault-diagnosis system; there will be other codes stored that you aren't seeing.
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Yes i have doen the test and 12V feed is Going off after 10 second or so .. wait for a min or 2 and start again , 12 v on and car starts 10 seconds or so later 12V off then car stops, thank you screwloose
it is good to know more about the switch , but want to know the resistance with out wire loom connection.
if the high pressure pump fault then how much will cost?
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Forget the rail pressure sensor. There is no published resistance anyway - it's tested by output voltage.
So; at idle, does the rail pressure in live-data drop below 298 bar before the 12v feed to the tank pump cuts - or after?
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i am planning to look in to this at this week end .
thanks
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Hi scewloose!!
I could not get any life data because engine run less than 10 to 15 second no more I have to wait for one min or so to try again. It is like this all the time. In tank pump is always work and stop just before the engine stop. Nothing changes on this pattern.
I went to a dealer and ask them about the pressure sencer and pressure regulator torque setting. but they gave me few printouts and I can see from this , the high pressure regulator is the one behind the High pressure pump and fitted with 2 hex screws. The one on the middle on the high-pressure rail in pressure sencer with 3 pins.
From the fault codes the problem is high pressure regulator. I remove this high pressure regulator with the help of the dealer?s print out. There was little fuel came out and on the tip of the regulator there was some dirt. It is like tissue or cotton fibre. Not metal dust. I look through magnifying glass. I wonder where this comes from!!!!
I measure the resistance on two pin and it reads 2.0 to 2.2ohms. If I push/pull the pressure pin on the regulator there is no change on the resistance. This mean the regulator is faulty. The pin movement will change the resistance value. May be I am not pushing hard enough!!!
I check the price with few diesel specialists and I can get it under £100. There is no need to get it from Peugeot. It is bosh Manufactured item
Hope all other components on the fuel line are in working order. And I am sure ECU will accept the new part I get from Diesel specialist.
I am hoping to fix it by end of next week.
What you think?
thanks
:)
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How long did you run it on veg oil ?
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I push/pull the pressure pin on the regulator there is no change on the resistance. This mean the regulator is faulty. The pin movement will change the resistance value. May be I am not pushing hard enough!!! What you think?
I think that you've gone steaming off down the wrong track again.
That regulator is not a sensor - it does not tell the ECU information, it just does as it's told by the ECU. Moving the pin will have no effect at all on the resistance of it's electro-magnet's coil - which should be 2 - 4 Ohms - so it's correct.
The rubbish on it's tip is from previous changes of the filter element - that is why you must always change the whole filter housing as a unit.
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did this problem ever get fixed im having similar problems on my 306 will start a new thread but didnt know if i should of posted here
thanks :)
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i have a stupid problem with my 406 110 Hdi aswell..
The problem started as a running on after key off,,, fault not sure what though, engine management light on but would go off after a while. It has been like that for 3 or more weeks now and at the time i thought fuk it... let the problem develop because it was intermittent lol.....
Anyway since a couple of days there the problem has started to get worse and is cutting out when idle and also lack of power....oops i think i killed lol joke ....anyway it will only rev to about 3000rpm and its like a rev limiter kicking in like turbo not blowing,, but i think its definetly lack of fuel, the problem comes and goes as it will sometimes sit and idle for a good 10 - 15 minutes and then clunk stops again!!!! pink fluffy dice OF A THING LOL
Sometimes when i go around corners the car cuts out aswell..
BTW!!! I changed the low pressure pump (in tank) last year and its getting plenty diesel up at the fuel filter housing at key on.....
last year changed the MAF from one out a scrap yard but i think it was a siemens one.... AND.............. WAIT FOR IT!!!,,,,,,,, the pink fluffy dice thing went on fire lol the inside of the MAF had melted resulted in no power what so ever and cutting out all the time.. Got a new one
The car finally was fixed after been at the diesel specialist all day and they changed the drv valve (fuel Regulator) on the fuel injection pump WHAT A DIFFERENCE IN POWER!!!
But if anyone can fix these problems or give me some more info that would be great as I dont want to take it to the diesel specialist again if its the same thing wrong because i could change the drv valve(FUEL REGULATOR) myself as its only held in with 2 or 3 torx lol
Thanks i would be grateful if someone could help me??? as the problem is slightly different from last year because last year the car was not running on a few seconds after switch off it was mainly a pain to start it when warm lol
Looks like i'll have to take another visit to the derv man a think:(
{Points Stewart towards the no swearing policy}
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 02/02/2010 at 00:55
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hey did you ever sort this im having same problems
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The rubbish on it's tip is from previous changes of the filter element - that is why you must always change the whole filter housing as a unit.
I have seen this advice elsewhere, perhaps by Screwloose. It is a powerful call and must be based on plenty of experience. So Screwloose seems to be the guy for tough questions.
If it is so bad to change the filter cartridge with the housing still on the car, it raises some questions: "Why change the filter at all"? "If the filter must be changed, when should it be changed?" It seems to me, logically, that the best time to change the filter would be when it was beginning to restrict the flow.
I have a Peugeot 370, 2004 version. I am wondering whether this motor measures the pressure of the fuel immediately after it passes through the filter. If it does, would it be sensible to use the pressure to determine when to change the filter?
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Further to the above question, if the motor does not measure the post-filter pressure, would it be sensible to fit a sensor just past the filter, and connect it to a warning light? I so, what is the pressure to have the sensor set to in order to give a signal at the right time?
It seems very hard to find out simple things like this. Is there a good source?
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Is it possible, on this website, to receive email notification if a response has been given to one's post or if any new post has appeared on this thread?
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I have a Peugeot 370, 2004 version. I am wondering whether this motor measures the pressure of the fuel immediately after it passes through the filter. If it does, would it be sensible to use the pressure to determine when to change the filter?
If its the 110bhp diesel then I think its measured at a few points. I'm sure with the Lexia diagnostic equipment I can read fuel pressure at the tank pump and HP pump.
That's why I've been able to reassure people that their HP pump isn't goosed when certain breakdown companies have told them it has when they've had a diagnostic with Peugeot specific equipment and not just a generic "scan anything" code reader.
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Thanks. Yes, it is the 110HP diesel. There are three plugs in the vicinity of the fuel filter. On the top of the fiuel filter housing is a green plug. On the top of the HP pump is an orange plug. At the end of the HP pump is a white plug. It seems likely that the green plug is registering either the input or output pressure at the filter.
Would the Lexia equipment enable identification of these fittings? If they are pressure sensors, would the Lexia be able to provide readings while the motor is running? Is there any way to get a reading of these outputs without a Lexia?
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Servicebox - the Peugeot website containing technical drawings - certainly would. Best thing I can suggest is you join Peugeotforums so you can send me a private message with your VIN and I can send you the diagrams.
I've incluced an example of the detail here:
s26.photobucket.com/user/gibbo501/media/110egr.jpg...l
You need the Lexia hardware interface and Diagbox / Planet software though to read the data.
This picture shows a typical example of what Planet can show:
i.ytimg.com/vi/lk_Ce5jKRxU/maxresdefault.jpg
Edited by Gibbo_Wirral on 14/04/2015 at 15:05
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If this is the 8 valve 2.0. Hdi all the fuel pressure problems I have had were caused by the pressure regulator on the back of the HP pump. Held on with a couple of torx/allen screws and a connector.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PEUGEOT-CITROEN-2L-HDi-BOSCH-FU...f
Edited by Peter.N. on 14/04/2015 at 20:50
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