new to us rover 200 , 1100 engine
seems to have a misfire only when warm at low revs around the 2-3k range more so under some load
plugs and dist cap look decent
is there any common faults with these that i should look at ? if not would you agree plugs , leads and dizzy cap would be the next thing to replace ?
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Change the plugs anyway. Measure the resistance of each plug lead with a multi-meter. They should measure a maximum of 5Kilohms (5000ohms) per 12" of lead. Change any that are too high.......
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the leads do measure a bit higher than what you say
6k odd for a foot....8-9k for 18" ish ...does that mean theyre deffinetly shot as the owner is on limited funds and would rather only replace whats req
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Most leads are 25 KOhms per metre. Check/replace the rotor arm too.
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hmm bit of a differance there you say 25 per meter and the other guy says 15ish per meter
if one was dud would it show much higher than the others ?
i think maybe id best try plugs first
(btw the coil on this rover is in the most stupid place ever...right tucked down behind the block so you cant reach at it and ideal for splashes of waster in floods)
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The resistance of a lead is often printed on it. I have changed a few coils on these too.
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out of intrest how do you get at the coil...i can barely see it lol
are they expensive to buy?
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out of intrest how do you get at the coil...
With extreme difficulty!
are they expensive to buy?
Around £30 last time I bought one. [£110 for the same Unipart coil in a Lotus box.]
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The ignition coil will either be situated down the back of the engine or behind the N/S headlamp. If it's at the back of the engine it will most likely be the dry type, and these are known to cause problems, and might be worth replacing.
25 KOhms per metre of plug lead is a bit on the high side. That equates to 7.7 KOhms per foot. Most leads do not measure this high. In fact most do not measure 5 KOhms per foot either, but I'd use that as a maximum figure, epecially for a car such as yours.
A rotor arm would typically measure about 7.5 KOhms, but in reality this is meaningless, as it would fail by tracking down through the centre to earth. This would be impossible to see and so replacing it would be your only option.....
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Its easier to get to if you put the car on ramps!
It is in a bit of an odd place and if you dont get the plug on properly it can cause damp running problems - particularly in heavy spray.
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is there a temp sender for the ecu that might cause probs like this
the misfire has changed into a savage buck/kangeroo when warm ...terrible when trying to pull out of a junction
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There is a coolant temp sensor for the ECU; but I wouldn't put it high on my list - have you tried another rotor arm yet?
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nope not bought any parts until the weekend
so ign parts could still be the cause of the bucking? its strange how it only does it when hot
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say if i fit the new ign parts and it doesnt cure it , would the owner be best to book it in to have the codes read?
bearing in mind theyre not wanting to spend no more than they have to ? and me guessing at random parts doesnt make much sense
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You can get the leads, rotar arm, distributor cap and a set of plugs for £40 tops. If they havent been done for a while then its a good place to start. For some reason aftermarket leads dont last long on the k series and its highly likely that the distributor cap and rotar arm have not been replaced. I changed mine at 110,000 for the first time as it was causing problems.
The CTS normally causes cold running problems and high emissions and are not common failure points.
EDIT! getting the codes read may not give you much info. It would need to be hooked up to a T4 testbook (xpart dealer or MGR specialist only I would think) as cheap readers dont usually give good results and the error codes on the 200 are not exactly state of the art.
Edited by bbroomlea{P} on 03/09/2008 at 12:01
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thank again mr broom
should i source those parts localy (if so any prefered brands?) or is there a prefered online specialist for rovers
and would you know of any good k series websites or online manuals i could learn more
Edited by steveo3002 on 03/09/2008 at 14:09
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Local motofactors are a good place and cheaper than Halfords! note how it's meant to be spelt!
You can buy none-legit cd's but your far better with a haynes manual - £5er max off ebay for this car.
mg-rover.org is a good source of info and has many knowledgeable ex-mgr mechanics etc that will give far more advice than a haynes
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 03/09/2008 at 19:15
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i'll go join that forum now..see if anyone else as any ideas
i also need a wiring diag for the stereo as thats been messed with :(
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right update time
bought the parts from unipart , £65 trade (over 100rrp) for plugs , leads , cap/arm and an airfilter...bit steep i thought
the parts guy said these engines are spec'd to have platinum(or some other fancy metal ) plugs , so i bought em and swapped it all over , the car didnt have these special plugs before so im hoping that may have been the problem?
went for a quick spin and its okay for now ...lets see
by the way...not one answer on the rover forum lol
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