During a normal commute along m'way, the engine has lost power. I cannot hear the turbo whistle over 1700 (about which I could always normally hear it cut in). I had been driving for about 30 minutes, between 50 and 90, cruising down a long hill (little power applied), but on climbing the next hill the turbo was obviously not feeding the engine. The engine seems to be running fine otherwise (temp ok, and no warning messages), but briefly did regain power for about 10 seconds, about 5 minutes later, but nothing after that.
Car has done 90K miles, fully serviced, last at 84K. It has had a lot of high speed motorway miles for the last 3 months, and with no problems at all.
Could this be a sensor (the MAF threads are very interesting, but I am not nearly technical enough to check readings myself), or more worrylingly a turbo failure? I consistently allow the turbo to cool after long runs. The fact that it cut in briefly surely is an indication that it is operable?
I haven't had this inspected, and will see how it runs on the return journey.
Thanks for any advice.
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 23/06/2008 at 13:20
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Just a further bit of history, the engine is starts OK from cold, but needs overcranking, i.e. sometimes it doesn't always fire on all cylinders (so it seems), but keeping the starter motor going for a second or two stops this.
Could damage have been done (or being done)?
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piers
Be cautious in jumping to conclusions with these systems; the software has may abilities and turning down the turbo is one of them. It'll do that even if the engine is getting a bit hot.
Even though there was no message; it's still worth getting the codes read. The slow starting suggests a low fuel pressure issue and anything like that would be quite enough to scare the ECU into using one of it's safe-mode options.
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I'll get the codes checked and report back.
Interesting about the temperature though, I have noticed the engine heating up on long hill climbs, but have not experienced turbo loss before. This morning was relatively "light".
Thanks for the advice!
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piers
If there are signs of overheating; then, coupled with the starting issue, I'd get the header tank sniffed for hydrocarbons - there's been a spate of head-gasket failures on the older HDis in the last month.
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An update: since this happened, it has not reoccurred, nor have I suffered any other problems. The engine seems to be running well and not hot.
It is due a service soon anyway, so I shall take advice and check for hydrocarbons etc.
A couple of interesting observations that may have no relevance:
1. The engine sometimes sounds quite "metallic", if that makes any sense. Around 2000rpm on deceleration. It is quite hard to describe, not loud or harsh, just less clattery.
2. At very low rpm, around 800-1000rpm, the engine makes a squeaky sound, almost chirruping under slight load. I never load it up too much and change down, but pulling away it can be noticeable.
Thanks.
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piers
Take that noise seriously. See if you can narrow it down to the front lower pulley on the engine, or the clutch housing.
The front pulley would mean an urgent fix; as it can take the cam-belt out. The clutch housing would likely be a DMF on it's way - nastier; but not quite so urgent.
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Now had cam belt, pulleys, and auxilliary belt changed at 97K miles. The cam belt was worn, and nearly at the end of it's life.
The "chirrupping" noise has not gone though. The mechanic reckoned this was coming from around the clutch housing. The clutch/flywheel disintegrated at about 40K odd miles, and replaced under warranty a few years ago. Could this be another one on it's way. I know that it's a fluid filled one and they are not known for their amazing abilities to last!
Apparently you can get "proper" clutches/flywheels now. Is this something recommended?
Car is still amazingly good at 97K, no sign of black smoke from the engine unlike a lot of diesels I see (Ford, Audi, VW). Is there a reason for this?
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Noises from the flywheel area are never good news - even if it's only a dry release bearing.
Solid flywheels are a risk on engines designed not to have them.
97K is nothing on an HDi; with good oil and regular changes, it's barely run in. When it works properly, that fuelling system is the best attempt there is at complete combustion. The nightmare FAP system traps a lot of soot anyway. [Frankly; give me the soot anytime...]
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