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Edited by Dynamic Dave on 06/06/2008 at 19:41
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For a little while now I've been unable to update my Inforad (Version V1) with the latest database.
I plug in the USB lead, the PC confirms it's plugged in, as does the Inforad V1 by its flashing lights.
I launch the Inforad Manager software that then searches for the V1 by looking at each Com port in turn, but is unable to find it.
I've uninstalled the software, and re-installed. I've tried all 6 USB ports - all to no avail.
Have spoken to and emailed Inforad support but all I get is the 'text book' style replies to try this or that, again all to no avail. They *think* my V1 is faulty and I can send to Ireland to have it looked at, but I have declined their offer as the annual subscription is due for renewal at the end of this month and by the time I've paid postage, any repair costs, etc it's just not worth it.
Inforad offered me an upgrade to a V3 version with lifetime updates, and external GPS aerial for £50. The lifetime update for my old V1 would have been £20, and weighing in repairs, etc to my V1, I went for the offer they gave me.
Guess what, the new V3 is behaving in the exact same way as the V1. That being the Inforad Manager software isn't seeing it. Therefore I am unable to update the database with the latest camera locations, as well as not being able to register the product for the lifetime updates.
Emailed Inforad again and got the exact same 'text book' replies as last time.
I've un-installed the software, deleted the relevant folders left in the Programme files directory. Ran ccleaner to remove any reduntant registery entries that might have been left behind, and then re-installed the software again. Re-booted the PC and then plugged in the USB lead, and up popped the message that new hardware was found, followed by your hardware is now ready to use.
I've looked in device manager, and the USB lead is showing that it's plugged in with no errors. Says it's a prolific USB-to-Serial Comm Port. I've tried changing the comm port No. and various other settings, but still no luck. I should point out that all other devices plugged into the USB ports (modem, printer, scanner, mobile phone, etc) all work fine, so I don't think there is a problem with the USB ports.
Have now run out of ideas.
btw, running WinXP-SP2 home edition.
Can anyone help?
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I'm not an expert on Inforad devices, but having been some 20 years in IT support I think that the problem is with your PC. One faulty device is possible but two different ones?
I'd personally install the Inforad software on a different(s) PC/laptop to see what happens. Often, 3 devices work on one PC, but something prevents the 4th from operating correctly. I saw it many times.
It is also possible that something you have installed lately, either from Windows update or from another source, like antivirus/antispyware/frewall is causing your Inforad not to work any more.
If your device works when connected to another PC, then you know the answer.
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Thanks melstin. That is my next plan of action to try it on another pc.
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2 different PC's tried with the same results - the software not detecting the Inforad.
I can't believe how unlucky I am to not only have problems with the original product, but the same problems with the new one as well. Of to phone Inforad and see what they say.
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Dave - not quite clear to me - is this on a USB cable and therefore seen as a USB disk?
If so,
1) Have you tried a different USB cable?
2) Try running Start/Run diskmgmt.msc (diskmanager) and see it is mohnting as a drive buty not being given a drive letter (which would cause it to not appear to any programs, or in My Computer or Explorer). I had this with a Western Digital USB drive. I don't remember the resolution (think there was a file to delete or something) but could find it again if that's the case. (You can assign or change a drive letter in diskmgmt.msc but I recall that still didn't resolve my problem). Although I don't see why that would happen on 2 computers...
3) Last thought - without the device plugged in, delete all USB devices in Device Manager and let the computer add them again.
If not USB, what is it??
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Hi Smokie,
The lead is 'unique' to the speed camera device. With my original speed camera detector (Inforad V1) the lead looked exactly the same as any other USB lead that connects between a printer/scanner/AN Other device to the PC, but using a bog standard USB lead throws up an error message that the wrong lead is being used. With the new Inforad V3 I've just bought, again it's a USB lead, but the end that plugs into the device looks like a mini headphone plug, but with 4 rings instead of 3 that you would normally find on a stereo headphone plug.
From googling, it is a USB-to-Serial lead.
At the moment the new V3 I bought is somewhere between here and Ireland as they requested that I send it back for checking.
I still can't get the V1 to connect to the pc either. I might try your suggestion of removing all USB devices in Device Manager. However I'm pretty sure the subscription for the V1 has, or is about to expire.
Damn annoying that having tried both camera devices on 3 separate pc's, neither of them will talk to the software.
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A jiffy bag was waiting for me from Ireland when I got home. Opened it up, and the covering letter said the V3 device was faulty and they have replaced it. I know it's a replacement and not been repaired as I made a small mark with a black CD/DVD marker pen on everything that I returned for checking. The V3 is the only thing not to still have a black mark on it.
Reloaded the Inforad Manager software, plugged the V3 into the USB port and the software detected it within seconds and updated the latest camera positions.
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Just bought an Asus Eee PC 7in internet tablet and what a tremendous device it is.
Wireless, supports my Vodafone dongle and HP printer, three USB ports, SD reader, microphone, webcam.
Loads of other software/apps including open office, spreadsheets, games, streams radio and video from the BBC and other sites, sound, photo and video editing software.
In fact, it pretty much does what a full size laptop will do.
Some scrolling needed from right to left because of the small screen, but no scrolling for the BR because the only bit you lose is the adverts in the right margin.
Well worth a look at some of the user forums for more info.
One question, it runs the Mozilla Firefox browser and I can't work out how to change the home page from the rather dull Asus corporate site.
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>>I can't work out how to change the home page from the rather dull Asus corporate site.>>
Bring up whatever web page you require as your Home page on the screen, then go to Tools>Options>General tab. Select/click on Use Current Page button and OK.
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Had a look at it when considering a laptop recently; seemed considerably overpriced given that for less than 100? more I could get an Asus laptop with 15.4" WXGA screen, 80GB HD, Windows Vista Basic, 2GB memory, WiFi, card reader, 4 USB ports, DVD-writer, etc. The software is downloadable. Good marketing by Asus though.
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Colin,
Portability - the Eee PC is barely much bigger than a paperback book which means, with the dongle, I've got full computing/net access in places where I wouldn't/couldn't lug my full-size laptop.
I think you do need a full feature machine, so instead of desktop and laptop, I've gone for a laptop and tablet, total cost £650 - not too sore, in my view.
Stuartli,
Thanks, I now have Google as my homepage - how dull and predictable is that?
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Had a look at it when considering a laptop recently; seemed considerably overpriced given that for less than 100? more I could get an Asus laptop with 15.4" WXGA screen ...
Overpriced if you need a full-sized laptop with a 15.4 inch screen, but good value if you want something you can actually carry without risking physical injury--small costs money. And luckily Linux doesn't need all those resources, so having 2GB RAM (for example) is way over the top for the little Asus--it's pretty much the bare minimum needed to get an equivalent experience out of Vista however.
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>> over the top for the little Asus--it's pretty much the bare minimum needed to get an equivalent experience out of Vista however.
Baskerville,
Quite, a guy in one of the forums installed Vista on his Eee PC just for the fun of it.
Which brings me to another point about Eee PCs - they're cute, come in different colours and are a bit of fun.
I was using mine in court the other day and a couple of the solicitor's clerks - bonny lasses, too - were quite taken with it.
An Eee PC for £240 is a much cheaper babe magnet than an E-type!
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The Eee is an interesting box, but be aware there are at least two specifications - the basic 2Gig "Surf" can be had for 200UKP or less, but it lacks the webcam the 4Gig and better versions have.
Before Christmas nobody knew about the Eee, or how useful it is, and they were being sold as a childs toy computer for 180UKP for 2Gig and 200UKP for the 4Gig.
A bit of demand early this year, and a fire in the battery factory, meant no stock until quite recently, and the 4Gig is now around 250UKP.
An 8.9 inch screen "Eee PC 900" is recently available - tinyurl.com/5kpebd - but it is about 350UKP (still <1Kg with solid state drives).
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AJH,
Mine's a 4Gb webcam for,as you say, £240 - shade less now if you shop around.
Given that neither machine has a great deal of memory, I reckon the 2Gb Eee PC will do much the same job and at under £200 is a bargain.
Shop didn't have any 2Gbs when I bought mine.
As for the 9ins version - what would I do with all that desktop space?
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I've been running a 4G Surf since before Christmas and it's a nice bit of kit. I ran with the Linux install for a bit but using it for work means that XP is more practical, and being honest I'm happier in the Windoze environment.
I've been away a couple of times on holiday this year and it's the only computer I've needed. The SD card reader is very handy (bought an 8Gb SDHC for about 30 quid in January) and watching movies on planes is really convenient. It's so light that you hardly notice you're carrying it.
It's all solid state too so feels less fragile than you might imagine and the battery life is pretty good too.
The larger screen would be nice but it jumps in price and so I'd struggle to justify the extra cost.
I ran a Toshiba Libretto 100CT for years and this feels like its natural successor.
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Hi All
I've had a problem a few times in the recent past with my computer. The screen goes black, and I can't get anything to come up, but as far as I could tell everything except display was working. Seems to happen when the computer is switched off, then switched on a again within a few minutes. I tried to solve the issue by rolling back my nVidia drivers, but this didn't help, and therefore obviously exacerbated the problem (since it involves a restart, which then stopped the display working again)
I have an SLi setup, so have been able to remove each graphics card in turn and try to run with just the other - still seemed to have the same problems.
I have now managed to get one of our LCD TVs hooked up, as it has a DVi input, and this seems to be working fine. Hence my feeling that it is the monitor which is at fault.
The strange thing is that, once I have the display working on the TV, if I plug it back in to the monitor, it will be working again. The issue seems to be around the monitor detecting an input, and returning a signal of some type to the computer to tell it so.
Does this make sense? And does it seem likely that I could get this repaired? Or is it new monitor time, and hope I'm right that this is where the fault lies?
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Is the monitor cable firmly attached at both ends? You should also check for damaged or bent pins.
Could be worth checking out the monitor's mains cable as well.
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Sounds rather lke a "switching fault" in the monitor (crt type?) and if it is, it would probably be cheaper in the long run to buy a fresh monitor rather than faff around having it repaired. A quick test is to remove all the graphics cards, and switch back to the on-board graphics, in case its either an AGP or PCL port problem, if it still does it, bin it!
cheers
Billy
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Thanks for the replies. Have checked the cable (and it's the same cable which is working perfectly with the TV).
Haven't checked the power cable though, will give that a go.
It's an LCD (a Viewsonic VX922). Looking on Google, it appears a few other people have had the same problems, at a similar age. I have emailed Viewsonic, so we'll see what they say. It looks like my warranty ran out last month though.
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It looks like my warranty ran out last month though.>>
Still worth taking it up with them if it is the monitor - goodwill does still mean something to many companies, especially if it's a known problem.
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Rang them yesterday, and after checking a couple of things to reassure them that it was definitely the monitor at fault, they arranged for a swap with a refurbished model.
Seems good to me. The ease suggests that they are aware of it as a known fault.
I still don't know whether it is outside warranty, as it never came up (although there website suggests that it might be)
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I have a small, wired usb mouse which flashes red underneath, which presumably makes it infra-red.
It's conked out, which is annoying.
Managed to unscrew it to be confronted by what I expected - a circuit board and a few wires that mean nothing to me.
The red bit still flashes, but it does nothing else.
I suppose it's just chuck it away and go and buy another, only a few quid.
Annoying, all the same.
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An infra-red mousey doesn't need to "wired" as it transmits an infra-red beam to a reciever (is it this thats wired to the usb?) if so maybe you just need to update/reinstall the drivers?
Billy
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I think there's a misunderstanding here.
Optical = no mouse ball (I think this is what the OP is talking about)
Wireless = no wire between mouse and computer. posibly infra red, but I'd guess they're RF.
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Wired USB mice are sometimes ressurected by plugging the USB connector into another USB socket on the computer - each socket has a life of its own, and its own installation of a given device.
Edited by Another John H on 26/05/2008 at 20:16
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Thanks everyone.
It's a mouse with a usb plug and a wire linked to the bit you click, which flashes red underneath now and again.
The wire is one of those with a little reel on it to change its length.
Tried a different usb port - no joy.
Sometimes the click works, but it won't scan.
I will probably try it again in a day or two - just out of curiosity - before I send it to add an almost imperceptible amount to landfill.
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I'll soon be working away from home during the working week and would like to set up video calls to SWMBO & kids. Would skype be the best way to go? What is required to make it work? As ever, I want to keep the costs to a minimum.
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Get your home phone on a contract that includes FREE phone calls to UK Land lines - evenings + weekends or all the time.
I have AOL anytime phone calls £5.50 / mth (mobiles cost extra as do calls abroad - my son when in USA was a less than onerous 2p/minute when on the mobile or US landline).
VOiP are OK (quality can vary) but you are charged if the other party is on a home phone rather than a broadband connection.
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Skype is ok--it's easy--but I've been less than impressed by the quality of the video, which is frankly appalling compared with, for example, Apple's iChatAV (which uses AOL's AIM network). For Skype what you need is a Skype client at each end, a Skype account each, and a couple of webcams. Since Skype is free, all you have to buy is the webcams.
I have also heard good things about the video quality on sightspeed and that might be your best bet on a PC:
www.sightspeed.com/
The real advantage of Skype however, is the ease of setup. With other systems there is a possibility you will have to play with the settings of your router to get them working. So your choice is either: easy but not very good, or less easy and much better.
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SWMBO was in France for a month while I was in the UK and we found that the Apple iChat gave the best quality but Skype was also good despite the lower video quality (it also worked on the eee PC above!)
MSN messenger makes half an attempt to do video but it's rubbish really.
If you've got Apple kit, go iChat otherwise Skype is fine for free.
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I find as a Skype user for some time that if the video is not up to scratch a quick disconnect and reconnect very often comes up with a different route which can be a great improvement.
Phil I
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As a Skype user who chats to one of the offspring in the Caribbean for free and able to see each other via webcams, it strikes me as remarkable that many have already got so blase about such services that they can complain about them...:-)
It wasn't all that long ago that using a personal video/phone service would have proved horrendously expensive and even more so to far flung places.
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Thanks all for your replies which very useful.
Next on the list will be a new laptop I guess ..........
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I've been using outlook 2007 for the past month or so on my new laptop. since synching it with my phone yesterday, the task list in the to-do bar now includes completed tasks and I can't find any way to turn it off - can anybody help ?
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I bought a 1-licence pack for £17.10 from Milennium Computers (seems to be in Stoke on Trest) via eBay, thinking it was a suitable way of renewing my cover. It came and turns out to be a "Symantec System Builder Edition". I don't know what a "system builder" is and doubt I need it.
It marked "For distribution only with a new PC or PC components". My computer is just over 2 years old and I have used Norton nearly all this time.
Is the disk likely to work and give me normal protectiont?
No good trying to ask Milennium. After I ordered the disk (and had my PayPal account debited) I got a mysterious message on eBay saying that there was some complication but they would not say what. Milennium do not respond to emails and I can't find a phone number for them. They seem to have disappeared from eBay. I can write to the address on the pack but the matter is a bit urgent, since my sub is about the expire. I haven't opened the sealed pack yet.
Advice greatly welcomed.
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It is exactly what it says on the tin. Another word for it is "OEM". It is meant to be installed by those who "manufacturer" computers. AFAIK, ther is no reason it won't work on your PC although strictly speaking it would be in breach of the software licence.
As an aside, if it does not work, why not do what most others [myself included] seem to do - use the various excellent free security products that are recommended on this forum [and other fora] and are readily available on the internet?
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As jbif says its for PC manufacturers, not end users, but you don't say what flavour of Norton it is - Norton Antivirus, Norton Internet Security, Norton 360 etc? If it is genuine & really up to date then you may still have to uninstall the existing software as it is intended to be installed on a freshly built PC and probably isn't suitable as a method of renewing an existing product for another 12 months of updates.
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sorry - should read title caption more closely!!
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I used Add/Remove to get rid of last year's version and installed this new one. It seems to work and there were no dire warnings about licences. I shall renew online next time, more expensive but less hastle. I know about AVG and other free services but am simply too used to Norton to change.
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I seem to recall that for a smidge more Symantec would "back up" your online renewal so if you needed to reinstall during the year for whatever reason you didn't need to pay again. Of course places like Amazon UK are good for buying full CD's of last years product - I guess Norton 2009 will be out half way through 2008!
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Over the last few days my PC has got slower on the HJ site - switching between pages on the HJ site the screen clears and a message box appears. Privacy report is the name and it seems to think for 10-15 seconds then the screen appears.
Is it the HJ site? My PC?
I have run anti-virus, cleaned up Internet Temp Files cache............ it might make a difference then 10 mins later the same problem. Sites, other than HJ, appear to be OK!
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Are you using Internet Explorer 7?
It could be the Web Page Privacy Policy feature. Go to Page (Toolbar area)>click on menu arrow>click on Web Page Privacy Policy.
You can configure which websites are accepted or not accepted as required.
Edited by Stuartli on 29/05/2008 at 15:04
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Morning Folks,
Just had several emails from a friend each with an attachment. (2xpdf files 80kb & 6,59mb and a word doc of 40kb - the large file contains graphics) These attachments need to all go out together on one email to several recipients.
I have tried putting them all in one folder and "winzipping" them, but the large pdf will not compress, and the total file size only diminishes from 6.7mb to 6.57mb.
This still takes ages to attach and send. can anyone provide any ideas how it may be possible to either A: Shrink the package smaller. or B: speed up the transfer rate maybe?
cheers
Billy
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Put the graphics on something like Photobucket, or your own website, and embed the links in the email?
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If the large file contains graphics, then I am guessing they are JPEGs. And if yes then a JPEG is already heavily compressed. Your options would be:
1. Live with it - you only need to send once even if more than one recipient to the single email.
2. Re-save the graphics with higher level JPEG compression - reducing the quality
3. Change the resolution of the images - reducing the quality
4. 2 and 3 from above.
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Thanks Chaps! much as i thought then! I played around with them for a while but couldn't do much with them, so i'll revert back to the Winzipped package and let it "plod" away sending it! (and sit back and enjoy the flood of complaints that are bound to come his way soon! ;-) )
cheers
Billy
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I generally upload files liike this to a folder on box.net , make it shared then send the link to the folder. I hate email attachments in general but large ones make me very angry.
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 30/05/2008 at 13:30
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I just hope the recipients are on a fast connection - downloading something like that via dial-up will take ages.
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This item stopped working, in that it wouldn't connect to the internet. Power OK and all lights indicating OK. Took it to my local computer shop who checked it out and said no fault but have reset it in some way. Now when I try to use it I get a very complicated error code and may have to go on a 10p a minute helpline to my ISP. It didn't come with an installation CD, ISTR it arrived as 'plug and play'. Any ideas as to the way forward please? Might I be able to find software on the net perhaps?
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If power & lights were OK, and it worked for the computer shop then I don't see why it wouldn't work for you, unless your line or cable is bust in some way. They probably did a factory reset. Most consumer devices (especially from people like Netgear) are really good at Plug and Play these days.
I'm not familiar with SDSL but as you are getting some form of error message it sounds like your computer is connecting OK to the modem, so check the connection from the modem to the wall socket and ask your provider to check that your line is not showing a fault. Also if you could post the actual error message then someone may know what's up.
I'm assuming that your computer is on XP or Vista and is set to get it's IP address automatically, as resetting to factory default will have reset the IP address on the LAN side. On your computer, go to Start/Run and run cmd. In the black command prompt window, type ipconfig. This will tell you your local (LAN) computer IP address, and that of the default gateway (router). They would often start 192.168. something. If they don't, then you're probably not getting a valid IP address from the ISP.
You could also try logging onto the router. (This may not work!). Open your browser, enter the IP address 192.168.0.1. It may ask for a userid and password which, IIRC, is often combination of admin and blank. If you manage to log on to it, see if you can see the WAN IP address - if there is a valid looking address then it's probably connected to an OK line.
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As Smokie says, try logging into the router on 192.168.0.1
Factory Default Username/password on a Netgear Router is user:admin password: password
Sounds to me like you need your ISP to confirm the settings for the SDSL setup. Usually tou need to apply:
Username
Password
Tunnel Type (PPPoE or PPPoA)
VC Type
If a Factory reset was done, then I would assume that all this has been lost and needs to be re-entered. ISP is the route to go really
Who is your ISP?
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ISP is AOL. ISTR recall that it worked out of the box. I am a bit lost as to where I enter this information that you are kindly telling me to do! Is this a spin-off from "Detect new hardware" in Control Panel? It did not come with an installation CD
Edited by Armitage Shanks {p} on 30/05/2008 at 11:15
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These are all settings you need to enter on the router, which means you need to establish connection to the router first, via the method already described. I recall trying to set up a friend's ADSL Netgear on AOL remotely, it was a right pain. I did find some utilities on the AOL help pages to set up some routers, for example this is the page for the D834, maybe a similar page for your SDSL jobbie :-
help.aol.co.uk/configure-your-netgear-dg834g-wirel...1
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One point to note with AOL (and TalkTalk) is that an MTU setting of 1432 is required.
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One point to note with AOL (and TalkTalk) is that an MTU setting of 1432 is required.
It may be needed in some cases, but is not required. I am with talktalk and my MTU is set at the default 1492.
AOL apparently give confusing advice - see
forums.moneysavingexpert.com/showthread.html?t=809...5
but the 2nd half of that post has the latest AOL reply says :
"AOL e-mail: Subject: Complete install Netgear DG834G Date sent: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 ... ... Change the MTU size to 1400 "
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Snippet from the moneysavingexpert thread - saving you read it - not pretty to look at!
1. Open a web browser (Internet Explorer or Safari) and enter 192.168.0.1 in the address bar. Press enter on your keyboard.
2. You will be prompted to enter a username and password. The username is admin and the password is password. Note: if you receive any other message, please refer to AOL Keyword: Help.
3. Once you have accessed the router's configuration settings click WAN Setup on the menu under the Advanced heading. Change the MTU size to 1400 and click Apply.
4. Click ADSL Settings on the menu under the Setup heading. Change the Multiplexing method to LLc based, change the VPI to 0 (zero) and the VCI to 38. Click Apply.
5. Click Basic Settings on the menu under the Setup heading. Change the Encapsulation to PPPoE. Enter your AOL email address in the Login box. Enter your AOL password in the password box. Click Apply.
Screen name information:
When entering your screen name/username on your router it must follow the four rules below:
1. You must enter your screen name in lowercase letters.
2. Your screen name must be your master AOL email address, ie your screenname@aol.com.
3. Your screen name must not contain any spaces.
4. The screen name must have General (18+) parental controls access (not Mature Teen, Young Teen or Kids Only).
Password information:
When entering your password on your router it must follow the three rules below:
1. The password must be between six to eight characters long (ie if it has nine characters or more, you will need to change it. You can do this at AOL Keyword: Password).
2. The password must consist of letters and numbers only (ie no special characters, such as ! £ ? % and spaces).
3. The password must only be in lower case.
Your router will now be connected to the AOL network. Opening another Internet Explorer window will allow you to access the internet by entering website addresses into the address bar and clicking Go.
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Very many thanks to all who have posted to help me with this problem. I think it fair to say that Charlesb is to computers what Screwloose is to common rail diesel faults! A great result for me on a great website and forum!
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>>I'm with talktalk and my MTU is set at the default 1492.>>
Yes, so was mine until about three or four months ago after originally joining TT just over two years ago.
However, I suddenly began to have problems sending e-mails with attachments and opening some web pages even though I'd been on LLU for around six months.
Nothing seemed to cure the problem until, by chance, I came across some then new TalkTalk members' forums operating in Beta form during yet another Google session for an answer.
Here I found the answer:
www.talktalkmembers.com/content/view/55/68/
Changing the modem router's MTU setting instantly brought the cure.
Running TCPOptimizer confirmed that the MTU is 1432...:-)
The full configuration is:
www.talktalkmembers.com/content/view/56/68/
Originally no TT help pages listed the MTU required.
Change the MTU size to 1400>>
This is 1432 with the added overheads to the 1400 figure.
Edited by Stuartli on 30/05/2008 at 15:31
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Is anyone else frustrated by having to use Windows (due to warranty) again after using Linux for years on older computers.
A laptop with Vista bought new last October and its so `ACTIVE`... It seems you can`t start working without constant updating. Antivirus, Windows Update, HP Update, Java, Adobe etc..
Windows Update always drops a new Internet Explorer shortcut into the system tray, even though Firefox is the default browser.
Update notices and demands keep popping up followed by demands to re boot. I`ve actually done a lot of work to disable a lot of this and have a streamlined junk and unwanted commercial bundle pap free backup in the form of Acronis images.
I`m tempted to forsake the rest of the warranty, pop an Edimax (railink chip) wireless card and another hard drive in ( preserving the original untouched) and put the new LTS Ubuntu or 2008 PC Linux ( when released) .
What`s really stopping me? Well, its the fonts. I have Linux on two other computers and you get used to Linux fonts if you don`t use windows I think, but Microsoft fonts are so sharp and clear in comparison.
Any thoughts?
Edited by oilrag on 30/05/2008 at 14:38
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Is anyone else frustrated by having to use Windows (due to warranty) again after using Linux for years on older computers.
Yes, it has ADHD. It drives you crazy with its nagging and is a real waste of time. Mac users get the same feeling when they use Windows. All those text bubbles coming from the task bar telling me I don't have the right antispyvirus software installed. That will be because I haven't installed any. Deliberately. The one that drives me mad is the 'New hardware detected' one. If I just plugged in some hardware I don't need to be told that's what I just did because I just did it.
As for fonts, have you tried installing the Microsoft truetype fonts?
You need to enable the Universe repository in Synaptic and then use it to install the msttcorefonts package (use the search box in Synaptic to find it). Then you need to set them up as system fonts--the tool for doing that is somewhere in one of the system menus; can't remember which one.
Incidentally all the paid-for Linux distros I've used come with nicer (expensive!) fonts: Suse, Mandrake (as was) etc.
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Thanks Baskerville,
I will give the fonts a try on one of the old computers that have Linux installed.
Re antivirus, I just uninstalled mine and its running much quicker. With a clean backup to go back to in a few clicks and not seen a virus for the 8 months I`ve been forced to use Windows, I can`t see the point.
Vista seems use double the RAM of Linux , I`m then informed that my `Windows experience` is 2.4
I don`t know if that`s out of 10 or 100, but I`m not inclined to disagree.
Cheers ;)
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I only have Windows in a VM, running in Linux, because of testing webpages in IE7 and even then, with nothing else installed, it's a nag-fest.
I actually don't mind the fonts in Ubuntu, but it could vary with screen resolution--my Linux PC has quite a good screen.
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I couldn`t find the MS fonts with Fedora or PC linux, but found them straight away with the latest Ubuntu without needing a different repository. (on the old Desktops) They have been downloaded with Synaptic, but I can`t find how to set them as system fonts.
I`m not skilled enough to do some things...largely dependent on the GUI I`m afraid ;)
Maybe I expect too much, small microscopic fonts are large with +2.5 reading glasses, but the blur is worse !
Edited by oilrag on 30/05/2008 at 19:24
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I'm not near my PC at the moment so I can't check, but it's definitely something you can do through the gui in both Gnome and KDE; in fact it's a well-known feature. It will be in the preferences for appearance or something. I'm not a Unix command line person either, so we're all square on that front.
Anyway, this looks good:
www.techotopia.com/index.php/Configuring_Ubuntu_De...s
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Just what I needed! Thanks, Baskerville ;)
Dave, Sorry I missed the `subject` out..
Edited by oilrag on 30/05/2008 at 22:00
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I have just had this info from a rather brassed of colleague. Offered for information only!
A short note to let you know that there is "an
issue" with Microsoft's recently offered XP3 Service Pack download.
I downloaded it and several days later when I booted up my previously
robust machine I found that all of my personal user settings had been
wiped, rollback restore would not function and the "go back to last
good settings" had no effect. I've checked with local professional
"techies" and they confirm that there is an "issue" with XP3 download
which is not always apparent immediately and appears to affect only
some computers. Microsoft Forum seems to support this view with
several clients moaning - but, as yet, no response from Mr Bill Gates.
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Armitage: reply offered for information only!
but, as yet, no response from Mr Bill Gates
because he is busy making arrangements from his retirement
tech-informer.com/fun/142/bill-gates-is-set-to-ret.../
and buying in to UK carpets business
ukmoney.blogspot.com/2008/05/bill-gates-buys-into-...l
several days later when I booted up my previously robust machine I found that all of my personal user settings had been wiped, rollback restore would not function and the "go back to last good settings" had no effect
Seriously though, 1st rule before applying any major software patch or service pack should be that
either you make a full backup, preferably a full image of your hard disk
or you wait a few weeks to allow others to find problems before taking the leap yourself.
If you read the news & comments on articles posted on technical journals such as "The Register", you will learn that the above advice applies irrespective of whether you are a Linux, Apple, Mozilla or a Microsoft fanboy .
Note - I have currently 3 XP and 2 Vista computers. I have applied the SP3 on one XP machine just last week and it is running fine. I have not dared to apply the SP1 pack on Vista as yet, but am feeling confident enough that I will apply it to one PC after the June patch Tuesday.
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>>.. after the June patch Tuesday.>>
This will be a week on Tuesday (June 10th).
I've twice installed SP3 on my system, firstly SP£ RC2 and then the Final version.
In both cases I did a full backup and System Restore point, plus a defrag after installing SP3, but I've not experienced any problems in either installation.
I've noticed too that virtually all the monthly WindowsUpdates have not been needed, as I'm deemed to have "a more up to date Service Pack" on my system.
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As Google is so common I thought this was of wider interest than computer questions.
Google has produced an odd looking message each time I've tried searching today which says my query looks like an automated one and asks me to complete one of those boxes with distorted letters.
Trouble is the Google logo is all wrong on the page displayed and it just looks amateurish.
Anyone got any insight on whether it's kosher?
The problem arises on two different PCs today andI've never seen it before.
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I've just checked Google and it's working fine for me.
Could be worth running Search and Destroy, SUPERAntispyware or whatever example you use, plus an anti-virus scan.
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Google has thrown this up on me once, but not for a while, and not on a machine at home. I wonder if your ISP has been 'blacklisted' in some way, perhaps because a large number of automated searches were coming from machines on its address range. I doubt you have a problem.
Google recently changed its favicon to a blue lower case g in the familiar Google font. Could it be that?
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I sometimes get the request to enter symbols in a box (why can't they display them in a legible typeface BTW?) but it only occurs when I am using my employer's computer, at work.
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I sometimes get the request to enter symbols in a box (why can't they display them in a legible typeface BTW?) but it only occurs when I am using my employer's computer at work.
If seen this once at work too - the reason was excessive requests to Google from our outward facing IP address.
Google takes a huge number of requests from one address to be the work of a "bot", and the illegible typeface is so it can't be machine read.
In the case above one machine inside the company network had "caught something", so all the Google requests from inside the network had the request for symbols in a box - Google was right as usual.
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What would be a suitable spec. (memory/processor/hard drive) for basic internet use and music storage, but no games.
I have been looking at the Dell web site, as there you can custom build to exactly what you want.
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The first Dell offering on this link would more than suffice (tinyurl.com/38uab5 ) - another £30 would double the hard drive capacity.
Even the basic £319 system (tinyurl.com/2paa5d ) would be speedy enough for most tasks, but has a 17in rather than 19in monitor unless you pay a bit more.
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 01/06/2008 at 01:20
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Worth making sure it's got 2gb of RAM if it's running Windows Vista Home Premium.
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Or look at the Dell Vostro range - much cheaper but unexplicably difficult to find from the web site.
www.dell.co.uk/vostro-desktops
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If your after a Dell, check out www.hotukdeals.com - every week , Dell are doing some major discount codes for their range. Girlfriend got her laptop (Vostro 1500, modern core2duo , 15.4" screen, 2gb ram, 120gig hard disk AND XP home installed) for £319 delivered!
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Any of the MESH PC's here starting at £399 tinyurl.com/54r6ag
You can customise any of the components.
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I'm going through the 'Easy-Install' process and it's failing saying that the PC cannot connect to the modem router. Anyone know what the problem may be? The modem they have supplier is a speedtouch and not the netgear that they show in the documentation.
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is your kit compatible? typically the protocol is 802.11b or g so both the PC and the router need to support one (or both) of these. I'm afraid to say I never hear good things about AOL very often and have always avoided them so can't comment further.
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The modem they have supplier is a speedtouch
Which one of these is it:
help.aol.co.uk/modem-driver-software-and-installat...8
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Thanks for that followed that process and it went well until it said DSL line failure. I've phoned them and they say broadband is active on the line! Any ideas?
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Thanks for that followed that process and
That process by the way was copied from my reply further up the thread to Armitage.
So let me ask again: Which modem is it?
Edited by jbif on 03/06/2008 at 21:17
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it's a familiar story:
tinyurl.com/3p2jxj
maybe the very nice Indian lady can help you too?
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A very nice Indian lady did help me. The problem was that the router wasn't responding to the ID and password I'd been given, she generated a new one and it worked straight away!
Thanks for your help.
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just run this on my ISP's site:
1294 kbps download speed (162kB/s)
149 kbps upload speed (18.6kB/s)
is this good, bad or indifferent from a wifi laptop and spending £14.99 a month for the connection?
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depends.
What do those figures represent? How were they generated?
What service are you paying for?
Is that the speed from the laptop or from the router?
How far from the exchange?
I wouldn't be pleased with those numbers, but I dont know if thats the line speed or the result of some software test that depends on the remote server performance and your wireless.
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Here is a link to a BBC story the other day on average speeds per region. news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/technology/7431336.stm
There is also a speed tester on there somewhere.
If you get your broadband via a telephone line there is a thing on the BT website where you can put in your phone number and it will tell you the top speed of your particular line can handle
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A speed tester can be found here www.speedtest.bbmax.co.uk/ . However you will find that your speed varies throughout the day.
{moves to correct place in thread, and changed title to the question it relates to}
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 05/06/2008 at 20:12
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The OP's results do seem poor. I got 35,000+Kbps upload and 24,000+Kbps download (35Mbps/24Mbps) on that test.
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Something on this site seems to crase IE6, frequently - it started to do this sometime earlier this afternoon, I think.
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Try disabling Shockwave Flash Object via Tools > Manage Add-ons.
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Then I can't run the speed test! I will give it a go at some time, however.
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Something on this site seems to crase IE6, frequently
Three possible solutions
1. Check you are using latest version of flash.
2. Upgrade to IE7.
3. Use alternative browser such as Firefox or Opera.
p.s. looks like geoff's reply is an interloper from the "broadband speed test" one.
Edited by jbif on 05/06/2008 at 18:46
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1. Check you are using latest version of flash.
No crashing on other sites...
2. Upgrade to IE7.
No thanks. I do not want to use this product, it's got too many fingers in too many pies.
3. Use alternative browser such as Firefox or Opera.
I have just run up Firefox, which does not seem to suffer similarly.
p.s. looks like geoff's reply is an interloper from the "broadband speed test" one.
Yup. I was wondering why (lack of) speed would crash the browser!
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I don't get chickens and things with Firefox, either.
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