Message from my colleage at work:
I've just found out that 2 months (c.2k miles) ago Kwik Fit put the wrong oil in my car during an oil change. The engine is now sounding lumpy. Kwik Fit claim as it's only been 2 months there will have been no long term damage done and have simply offered a free oil change as a resolution. Is this acceptable? It came to light as when I took it in with the 'lumpy' problem, the oobservation was made that the oil 'looked very thick'.
Thanks
s
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Any idea as to what type of oil was used?
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IIRC.
Don't Ford recomend a 5W-30?
Something to do with lubrication of valve stems. They're machined to a very tight tolerance for emission reasons. The thin oil is to ensure their lubrication.
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I wouldn't be happy with that outcome. I would want some kind of independent report done and charge them for the cost of the report and any recommendations.
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That's what I'd do with my Boxster, but we're talking about the same guy that has decided not to change his worn pads & disks 'because it's too expensive'! We'll see I guess.
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It is up to the owner of a car to make sure the correct oil is used, especially when going to such places.
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Your comment is presumably tic? If they offer an oil change service then it's not unreasonable to expect them to use the correct oil. It is a fairly fundamental aspect and the Focus is hardly a rare car.
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Yes it is tic. But I don't think that Kwikfit, National, ATS or any other fastfit chain stock the correct oil for a Ford (5W/30) or a VW (504/507). They seem to offer ordinary, semi-.syn or synthetic.
If you want to get the proper oil for a Ford I would go to Ford's Rapidfit.
I agree with you Xileno, they should use the correct oil for a Ford or any other make, but they just don't care/bother.
It's a bit like going to hospital to have a leg chopped off, you should make sure they chop the correct one off. It's no good complaining afterwards!
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Our local Ford dealer uses Shell but of the correct viscosity-Ford handbooks usually list a number of other Ford oils as suitable-not just Formula E.
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10W-40 is also ok for the Focus with the UK temperature range according to the handbook.
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A Zetec's hydraulic tappets will only work correctly with a 5W-30 in the sump.
Thicker oil is a common cause of cold-running problems on them.
The sticking valve problem is another good reason to only use the 913-spec oils.
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Ford 5w/30 was not available when the Zetec was originally introduced.The recommendation at that time was to use Ford 10w/30 but many people tried to use 20w/50 which caused all sorts of problems.
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The original Zetec had mechanical tappets but got a build-up of deposits on the valves if the wrong oil was used.The CVH would pump up it's hydraulic tappets if too thick an oil was used.
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It should be 5W/30 in a Zetec and nothing else.
Apart from the Ford Formula E being readily available, well priced and good quality, you can pop into your local Halfords and choose from several oils of the right grade.
Mind you, I had to talk someone out of putting some leftover SAE30 lawnmower oil in his Focus mk2! The lengths people will go to to save a fiver!
--
04 Grand Scenic 1.9 dCi Dynamique
00 Mondeo 1.8TD LX
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Ford 5w/30 was not available when the Zetec was originally introduced.>>
I've been religeously using 5W-30 in my Zetec engined Mondeo since 1997 and also in the more recently acquired Focus. I've never had a problem with availability. I use Texaco Havoline from my local motor factor, but the correct oil is available at the local Halfords where the can specifically mentions Ford engines.
Using the correct oil is as fundamental as using the correct tyre pressures or spark plug. I wouldn't trust any organisation who couldn't do something as basic as this. What have they been putting into Mondeos for the last 10 years???
Having said that, I'd be surprised if much damage had been caused after 2 months of summer driving unless they'd used treacle.
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Ford Formula E is made by Texaco.The original Zetec range goes back to the introduction of the Mondeo;people should quote the indentifier after the Zetec name ie.Zetec "S" for example which would be the Sigma engine range.
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i use 15/40 gtx in my fiesta...goes like a train
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what im saying is i can get 85ish out of a 1.1 ohv ford engine (hcs) no probs thats done 130k, regular oil and filter changes are sacro -sanct qed
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My 1.1 Fiesta(V-first time round) was still running well when I sold it with 156,000m. on it-Ford 10w/30 in the winter-Ford 20w/50 in the summer.
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These are old engines and can use almost anything.
The newer Ford engines must have 5W/30. If people want to use something else so be it, but don't come on this site moaning about their car when it's your fault.
I'm glad that your Fiesta is going well Milkyjoe, you must have nearly rebuilt it!
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>>I'm glad that your Fiesta is going well Milkyjoe, you must have nearly rebuilt it!<<
He jacked the battery up and ran another Fiesta under it! :)
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the only bit of the car that i havnt had in bits is the cigar lighter!!!!
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I've read that 5W30 is 'critical' in these engines, but then how does the same grade of oil cope with the wide range of ambient temepratures that the car could experience - from bitterly cold Scandinavian winters to blisteringly hot Greek summers?
My Mercedes handbook suggests different grades according the the local ambient temp - the chart suggests that in the UK almost anything could be used.
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I've read that 5W30 is 'critical' in these engines...
BP, I think the rule-of-thumb with a Zetec is that they require slightly thinner oil than the majority of engines in any given temperature range. In the UK, we tend to put 10w40 in most cars, whereas Zetecs specify 5w30. In Australia they often use 15w50, so at a guess I'd say they'd put 10w40 into a Zetec. I doubt whether there'd be any ill-effect from running a Zetec in the middle of summer with 10w40, but if your camshaft eats itself I doubt Ford would be very sympathetic.
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My early 90s 1600 Zetec engine specifies 5/40 but says it can manage all right on 10/40.
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is the issue viscosity, or base oil quality? Mineral oils are more likely to leave varnish on the exhaust valve and stem, thus at least a semi-synth is required, no doubt with the correct detergents etc. Using old recipes like 20w/50 might be OK for low-tech V8 engines, but higher specific outputs=more heat internally which is more relevant than the ambient temperature.
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