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has anyone removed a radiator from v6 galaxy, Sharan or Alhambra. does it come out from the top or bottom, do i have to disconnect air con. any tips would be very much appreciated
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Tip: Buy a Haynes manual.
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or ask on the ford galaxy owners club
tinyurl.com/3b2jjx
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Sorry, I sounded a bit harsh, a Haynes is ideal for this kind of job though.
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In common with most VW models,the Galaxy requires removal of the whole front plastic "cassette" frame which houses both radiators and any aux coolers.Realistically this is bumper,headlights and other bits to be removed for access.The a/c condenser is screwed the the coolant rad as are the cooling fans ,so a/c will have to be discharged.Everything is a tight fit on a V6.hth
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thanks for replies. i have a collection of haynes manuals and just wanted some indication of how big a job it is before buying another. nobody seems to have removed one on the galaxy forum if i do this one then i can post the procedure.
my main fear was having to discharge the a/c.
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elekie&a/c doctor - have you removed the radiators from a v6? if so, can you tell me i need any special tools?
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No special tools reqd;just a good selection of metric sockets and spanners and a set of torx (star drive)sockets.The a/c pipes may be internal hex (allen ) fittings.Also possibly hose clip pliers for the spring loaded coolant pipe clips.hth
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thanks for your help. i will have to DIY as
a) can't get car to garage without a tow
b) can't afford to pay the garage bill this month
c) still haven't found a garage which puts back all of the parts it removes
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update - you can remove radiator without discharging air con but it is tight especially when unbolting the condenser from the rad. to get to the rad the main parts you have to remove are; undertray, front grille, both headlights and bumper. the rad comes out from the bottom.
just have to source a new rad now and find a spare couple of days to put everything back together.
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replaced radiator. it was a nightmare to attach to condenser in situ - the skin is still growing back on my fingers. i now have a leak from cooling fan switch screwed into rad. i didn't use any sealant as the old one didn't appear to have any.
can anyone advise on what to use to stop leak. i was going to use plumbers mate or ptfe tape or do i just need to try and tighten it.
what is the general concensus on spring hose clips - should i have replaced them with jubilee clips?
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>>what is the general concensus on spring hose clips - should I have replaced them with jubilee clips?
I have always been advised that spring clips are much better as the narrowness of the wire (times two) permits a better "sqeeze" whereas a jubilee clip, although easier to apply/use spreads the squeeze area and needs to be much tighter to achieve the same amount of sealing.
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makes sense what you are saying about the spring clips. it must be a lot quicker for the manufacturer when assembling too. the downside is that some of them are very difficult to access, even with the proper tools. you also can't tighten them if not sealing. i have replaced some of the more ackward located ones with jubilee clips.
does anyone know if the cooling fan switch (screwed into rad) should have a washer/o ring?
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never done your particular job, but surely it has a gasket?, in the form of a fibre washer?, or similar sealing ring.
I have never, ever, in 40 years 'bodging' used plumbing skills on my cars, it is too dangerous. what if sealant gets out and blocks the rad?, over heating etc.
There must be a fibre washer , or equivalent, if not get a packet of them and find one that fits, I would anyway.
You must be pretty resilient to tackle that job
BOL
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thanks for the replies.
i can't remember seeing any washer on the one i removed from the old rad to put in the new. i was tempted to put some sealant on the thread as i knew it would be difficult to access once i had re-fitted the rad but resisted for the reasons you mentioned. as the old one wasn't leaking i thought it would seal ok.
when i first filled system the coolant was dripping out of the switch. i ran car until fans cut in and then left to cool. coolant dripped steadily at first but started to slow down. there is still a very slight drip and will call vw monday if it persists to see if i can buy a washer/o ring.
I am hoping that the switch is bedding in and will eventually seal itself.
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