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Subaru Legacy - improving handling info - Aprilia
This is in response to a query on another thread about parts required to improve handling on a Legacy (and also Forester & Impreza).

First off, a bit of background.
All the Subaru suspension layouts are very similar. In fact a Forester is an Impreza 'on stilts' and a Legacy is a 'well fed' Impreza. The overall design and geometry is very similar on the three models.

Now, all things being equal, any AWD is going to tend to understeer - that's their basic trait. Subaru want their cars to drive maximally safe and stable even with an idiot at the wheel, so they build in lots of understeer by biassing roll stiffness to the front of the car, about 70-30. 'Conventional' suspension tuning wisdom says that biassing the vehicle roll stiffness to the rear will reduce understeer because it will increase front end grip and reduce rear end grip. So leaving the front ARB as it is and fitting a stiffer rear anti-roll bar will reduce understeer - this is what a lot of suspension tuners do - just fit a bigger diameter rear ARB.
However, this argument doesn't take account of the fact that when the car rolls the suspension geometry changes. On Subaru's design the wheel camber actually changes quite a bit, more than you'd really like - this tends to reduce grip. Fitting stiffer anti-roll bars back AND front, and choosing sizes to shift the vehicle's roll-stiffness bias away from the front a little, therefore reduces overall roll (and so increases grip by improving tyre contact and getting the tyres to work better) and also can remove most of the understeer characteristic.
Of course one way to do this is just to fitter stiffer springing and damping all around, this maintains geometry (because the wheels can't move about as much) and works great on a track or very smooth roads. The snag is that on UK roads you are quite likely to hit a bump or hole on a corner and then everything goes to pot because the suspension is insufficiently compliant and the car skits and jolts as it loses and then regains grip.
It is much better (for UK road driving) to retain the reasonably soft OEM spring and damping rates, but significantly increase roll stiffness.

For a 2003-on Legacy you need the following parts:

22mm Front ARB - BSF35
22mm Front ARB poly-u bush W040622
20mm adjustable rear ARB - BSR39Z (this has three settings to give roll stiffness equivalent to 18, 20 or 22mm solid ARB).
20mm Rear ARB poly bush W040620

That will set you back a bit over £200. I have generally bought from Balance Motor Sports www.balancemotorsport.co.uk/

The front standard ARB links are generally OK. If you want to fit improved rear ARB's (less compliant than the OEM ones) then you can, but they are about £80 I think and not essential. beware of using the spherical end links because they are quite dear and my experience is that they can start to knock after a few thousand miles.

Fitting the ARB's is about 1/2 hour each end and easy. Any small garage will be able to do it for you. Put plenty of the (supplied) silicone grease on the bushes otherwise they will squeak.

Initally set the rear ARB to the softest (endmost hole) setting. You will have an overall 50-70% increase on roll stiffness, and less understeer than with the OEM setup. This setting will give greatest amount of understeer with the new configuration, but the car will corner flatter and feel less 'nose heavy' with less understeer than previously. Drive the car around for a week or two to get used to it and how it feels in corners. Try and drive the car 'balanced' through the corner, brake firmly before the corner and then ease of as you enter into the corner - its a Subaru AWD, so although you can floor the pedal and it will hold on (which is how the typical WRX numpty will drive), for fluid driving you should really just apply a little throttle as you go through the apex, just enough to overcome drag so that the car is balanced and neither accelerating nor decelerating. Accelerate as you come out of the corner and straighten up. If you still feel that there is too much understeer for your taste then move the rear ARB to the centre setting and try it there for a couple of weeks. If there is still a bit too much understeer then increase front tyre pressure by 2-3psi and see how that feels. It should not be necessary to go to the third (stiffest) setting. Making the rear too stiff can provide a very 'neutral' feeling car on a good road but can lead to a loose feeling or snap oversteer in difficult situation and could catch an unwary driver (your wife?) out on a slippery road - so always live with a little understeer.

The only downside to this mod is that you are increasing the lateral coupling between the suspension units and therefore making the suspension 'less independent' - this can manifest itself as slight 'corkscrewing' when one side of the car hits a bump or pothole. All suspension work is a compromise though, and its not something that is unpleasantly noticable.
Subaru Legacy - improving handling info - Lud
Great stuff Aprilia.
Subaru Legacy - improving handling info - Aprilia
An additional thing I should mention is wheel alignment. Always have a full 3D laser alignment done (on 'proper' kit, like a Jim Beam, Sun, Bear). All manufacturers allow for a 'tolerance' on geometry settings, but the car works best when in the cenre of the tolerance band. Sometimes a car is toward one end of the tolerance when it comes out of the factory. If buying a used car, then have any suspension mods done, drive it a couple of hundered miles and then have it aligned. With a new car, let it settle in for 1-2k miles and then have alignment. It can make quite a difference. I know of a new Golf IV GTI that wore out its tyres in 7k miles. The dealer said it was down to hard driving. We took it to the local tyre shop and had it put on their Jim Beam and it was waaay out...! I don't think it had been set at the factory. Proper alignment should cost £50-80.
Subaru Legacy - improving handling info - Wilco {P}
I hijacked another thread to get this - Aprilia - many thanks.

Isn't the Backroom great??!!
Subaru Legacy - improving handling info - Pezzer
I agree............:-)
Subaru Legacy - improving handling info - Happy Blue!
I think I can speak for all of us in saying that I wish Aprilia owned and operated the garage just down the road from my house. In particular now, I would just love to hand him the keys to my Outback and say 'Thanks for the advice; I agree; please get on with it!'

Subaru Legacy - improving handling info - Pendlebury
>>put on their Jim Beam and it was waaay out<<
Nothing was ever aligned when I had been on the Jim Beam - sorry couldn't resist - excellent thread Aprilia.

While we are on the subject of scoobys - is the Legacy (estate) still regarded as a bullet proof buy in terms of duarbility and relaibility ?
Subaru Legacy - improving handling info - Aprilia
While we are on the subject of scoobys - is the Legacy (estate) still regarded
as a bullet proof buy in terms of duarbility and relaibility ?


Yes, they are very good. You have to remember that Subaru have basically stuck to one fundamental design for many years (boxer engine with AWD) and consequently it has been pretty well debugged. In fact the Subaru boxer engine is probably one of the most developed and tested in the world. It has a 40 year history with Subaru, but actually started out in Germany just after WWII. It was developed as a 900cc engine by Lloyd (part of Carl Borgward's business empire in Bremen). Borgward sold the design to the Japanese and Subaru developed their boxer from this engine.

They had some problems in the late 90's with the 'open-deck' 2.5l engines (the top of the bores were not well supported and osciallated, resulting in fretting of the cyl head gasket and consequent HGF). Personally I would avoid a 2.5 made '99-2002. Also, any turbo engine can suffer if driven hard or the mapping is messed with, so tread carefully with any turbo (they will be JDM imported into UK, because IIRC no turbo Legacy's were officially sold in UK).
You hear of occassional crank and cam sensor failures and the heater control unit on older Legacies (95-98) can play up, but these can be repaired by the likes of BBA-reman. All in all they are probably as reliable as anything else you can buy in the class.
Subaru Legacy - improving handling info - Pendlebury
Cheers Aprilia - by the way do us all a favour and write a book will you.

I'm serious.
Subaru Legacy - improving handling info - nick
Aprilia, would these modifications improve an 06 Spec B? I believe the suspension on these differs slightly form the standard Legacys but by how much I don't know.
Many thanks in advance.
Subaru Legacy - improving handling info - hillman
Thank you Aprilia.

The comments on suspension alignment chime with my experience very nicely. On my last Legacy the near side front tyre was wearing very badly before I got the dealer to do a complete realignment.
On my present Outback the there appeared to be a fault with the crank position sensor. The problem seemed to re-occur several times, but after a full check it turned out to be a wiring fault, seemingly a loose connection. It hasn't re-occurred since, fingers firmly crossed.

Espada III, I thought that you had a Legacy 3.0l Spec.B
Subaru Legacy - improving handling info - Aprilia
Aprilia would these modifications improve an 06 Spec B? I believe the suspension on these
differs slightly form the standard Legacys but by how much I don't know.
Many thanks in advance.


Sorry, I don't know enough about the Spec B model to say.
Subaru Legacy - improving handling info - Happy Blue!
Hillman - sorry, no just an Outback 3.0Rn. Spec B would be nice, but I like the higher position of the Legacy on stilts and the auto box. I've given up on stick waggling (as George Bishop once said!).
Subaru Legacy - improving handling info - Sprice
Cheers Aprilia - by the way do us all a favour and write a book
will you. I'm serious.



I do believe he has written a book, IIRC it used to say so in his 'about me' bit of his profile.
Subaru Legacy - improving handling info - Garethj
While we're on this topic, an antiroll bar increases roll stiffness at that end which encourages weight transfer. Wouldn't this make that wheel more likely to slide? What I'm saying is - doesn't a stiffer anti roll bar mean less grip for the tyre?

Or is it worth doing (with the Subaru at least) because you limit the suspension travel and it has less grip in bump or droop anyway?

Gareth
Subaru Legacy - improving handling info - Aprilia
While we're on this topic an antiroll bar increases roll stiffness at that end which
encourages weight transfer. Wouldn't this make that wheel more likely to slide? What I'm saying
is - doesn't a stiffer anti roll bar mean less grip for the tyre?
Or is it worth doing (with the Subaru at least) because you limit the suspension
travel and it has less grip in bump or droop anyway?
Gareth


Gareth, the answer is 'both at the same time'...

I don't want to start writing a book on Subaru suspension - but here are the basics.

Tyre "grip" is calculated as traction divided by loading, so as loading goes up so does traction, assuming constant amount of grip. The 'caveat' is that the coefficient of friction for the tyre is not constant with loading, it decreases as loading increases. So, let's say a tyre is taking a load of 600kg (which would be about right for an Impreza, to take an example) then if it could generate 600kg of lateral traction before slipping then Grip = 1.0, which is as good as it gets with a premium tyre!
Say, in a corner, weight transfer might increase the load on the outer tyre to 1000kg then it might generate 800kg of lateral traction - result is Grip = 0.8. The grip has dropped slightly due to the higher load.

Thus increasing weight transfer (fitting a bigger diameter ARB and so increasing roll stiffness) results in a reduction of grip at that end of the car under hard cornering. This is what all the textbooks tell you and is the traditional 'suspension tuner' approach to changing handling.

However, that's not the whole story. On the Subaru front strut-type suspension (and on other cars too) the change in camber under modest roll angles is quite small. But under hard cornering (lots of roll) the camber change becomes rather large. The wheels tend to go to quite large positive camber angles and so you end up 'driving on the sidewalls' and mushy understeer sets in because the tyre contact patch is reduced. Note that the rear suspension is slightly better in this respect - there is less camber change there, so under very hard cornering the rear grips better than the front - which suits most drivers.

The outcome of the situation described above is that by increasing front roll stiffness two things happen - (1) weight transfer increases, reducing grip somewhat; (2) roll angle (and therefore camber change) decreases, which increases front tyre grip. And the overall result is that in most situations (2) outweighs (1), and front grip increases, meaning less understeer. At very high cornering loads (1) prevails and so the car understeers 'in extemis' - which is what you want.

At the rear the situation is a bit different becasue the geometry is different and there is little camber change with roll on an Impreza (even less on a Legacy, which has a better rear suspension geometry than the Impreza). Therefore increasing rear roll stiffness reduces grip at the back due to the straightforward load transfer effect, we don't really have to concern outselves with camber change.
However, both the Legacy and the Impreza have a chassis which is extremely stiff, so to some extent increasing rear stiffness has some impact at the front, and vice versa.
Subaru Legacy - improving handling info - Aprilia
I do believe he has written a book IIRC it used to say so in
his 'about me' bit of his profile.


Yes, I've written two books on automotive engineering and contributed to two others. Fortunately one of them was taken up by the SAE and sold very well, especially in the US.
I've also published about 50 papers, but these were mostly associated with work done for either VM's or component suppliers and are not the kind of thing that the man in the street would read, they were published in journals read by professionals in the industy. Mostly to do with sensors, actuators and automotive control systems (e.g designs for accelerometers, yaw sensors, knock sensing, combustion , ABS control systems etc etc).
Subaru Legacy - improving handling info - Aprilia
Just to add a little to the above (sorry to go on, this has just come to mind)..
In the past I have gone out on both road and track with drivers who complained about their cars handling; but two things to bear in mind..

1. Driving style is very important. One of the posters on this forum maintains that non-turbo Imprezas are no good and 'not a sporty drive'. On a winding road the good driver in a non-turbo will easily beat a poor driver in a turbo any day of the week. Most drivers never receive any tuition in how to handle their car at speed and most have no knowledge of chassis design - its all been learnt by trial and error, and some people are slow learners..LOL!!. A lot of drivers tend to 'hook' their car into the corner and try to play about with the line and and speed half-way around the corner. The tyre can only generate so much traction - if you brake or accelerate then that reduces the amount of lateral tractive effort available at the tyre. Put simply, maximum cornering force is developed when you're neither accelrating or decelerating in the corner. In practice, due to drag forces etc then a little throttle to preserve equilibirum is what you need. So set the car up for the corner on the straight, choose your line and come off the brakes as you enter the corner.

2. Tyres make a big difference if there are largish camber changes. So a soft sidewall is not too good on a Subaru, the tyre tends to heel-over and over a period of time the shoulders will wear out. Something with a stiff sidewall is better (this is one of the theories behind the use of ultra-low-profile tyres). Also a few more PSI in the tyre tends to stiffen it up a bit. Again, its a compromise though, because too stiff of a tyre will result is loss of contact over road imperfections.
Subaru Legacy - improving handling info - arnold2
I have often wonderd about sidewall design on tyres - Goodyear NTC-5's, for instance, seem to have sidewall that seems to 'bend' all of a sudden - so in a sharp corner you seem to have lots of grip, and then suddenly it all goes !

If I understand what you are saying, in a car with a stiff suspension setup - like my Focus for instance - you should choose a tyre not just for grip, but one with a stiff sidewall? And in a car with a softer suspension setup, would a tyre with a softer sidewall then actually grip better (unless you started fitting ARB's) ?
Subaru Legacy - improving handling info - hillman
I took my Subaru Outback 2.5S in to Macclesfield Motor bodies today for a geometry check. I was told that it wouldn?t take more than 45 minutes, but was I surprised when they found that the data wasn?t on their machine memory ? No, not really. Hence it lasted at least twice that time, getting the data by phone and doing the job, and then another half-hour while the technician explained the results to me. Cost £80:00 plus VAT. The setup is within limits apart from the camber, which is fractionally out. The technician said that it was so little, and such a job to fix that if it was his car he would leave it. He opined that the allowable tolerances are quite wide. Any comments, anyone ?

One of the reasons that I went for the Outback instead of the Legacy was the bigger tyre profile. Some of the roads in our district have a very bad surface, and I had a bad habit ot touching the kerb to feel where I am while parking. The bigger profile saves the rim. I've almost managed to stop myself doing it !
Subaru Legacy - improving handling info - Aprilia
I am surprised he didn't have the four wheel alignment data. It's in Autodata and I would have thought a reasonably modern aligner would have it. They usually get software updates every few months, and most now have virtually all cars (including grey imports) on the database.

The tolerances on most cars are quite wide - it allows for wear and for fitting tolerances at the factory. For example, the front wheel toe-on on your car is 0+/- 1.5mm, but you would notice quite a difference between those extremes. Ideally the technician should set the alignment to the centre of the tolerance range and not just leave it - although many will take the lazy way out and not bother so long as it is somewhere within the tolerance band. Camber is 0.5+/-0.5, with a 0.3 degree L/R tolerance. Camber is easy to adjust at the front (an eccentric bolt at the bottom of the strut). It is not easily adjustable at the rear, although you can buy and easily fit camber adjustment bolts.
Subaru Legacy - improving handling info - hillman
I got the impression that they were running over time and didn't want to do any more than I had stictly asked them to do,viz., check it out.

I didn't ask what kind if machine they used, but I think that I once saw the company recommended in the HJ site under recommended places to go for that kind of thing.