I appear to have an oil starvation problem with my 2002 Shogun 3.2 diesel.
At first it only occurred if I went straight onto a motorway after a cold start. (I live 2 miles from the motorway, so it was not completely cold). After a couple of miles at 60 to 70 the oil light would come on, making me release the accelerator and look for the hard shoulder. Within 5 seconds the light would go out and stay out, whatever pressure I put the car under. This fault only occurred on the motorway, never on ordinary roads even with 2.5 tons on the towbar. I wondered if my 10W-40 oil was a bit thick when cold.
Today I was climbing a 1:5 hill solo after about 10 miles of running. Half way up the hill my oil light came on! I came off the throttle and coasted for a passing place….and out went the light.
Clearly I need to do some investigating….here’s the rest of the history.
It’s done 85,000 miles: I bought it 9 months ago at 82,000 with a full Mitsubishi service history, although the last dealer service was at 66,000. I changed the oil and filter when I first had it. The old oil was black but otherwise healthy. The new filter came from a Japanese parts motor factor, so is not a genuine Mitsubishi one. There is no oil pressure gauge on the car, just a warning light. Oil level on the dipstick is about one third down from the max mark.
Any thoughts guys?
Many thanks,
John
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It sounds fairly recent problem?
Would suggest its an oil flow problem in the block?
Drain oil, run with proper flushing oil, then drain and refill with fresh oil and new filter and see if problem has gone?
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John
First you need to establish exactly what this light is warning you of. The occurrences would suggest oil [or transmission?] temperature rather than pressure, but the handbook may have some further info.
There's an epidemic of clogged oil pick-ups going on; VAG and Saab turbos seem the worst affected - nothing to do with extended service intervals of course! What's the oil-change frequency been on yours? It's got nearly 10 litres of the stuff in there; unless they've been using something very cheap it should have lasted OK.
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Not sure i agree about the temperature being the problem.
OP says it stays out after initial occurence whatever load its put under ?
Clogged oil pick up sunds quite possible; hence the flush and refill theory. But I would suggest flushing oil and not just an additive type.
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Thanks for the replies
…Establish exactly what the light is warning me of! ….The handbook says if the light is red, then it’s low pressure. But if the light is amber with a wavy line beneath, then it’s low oil level. Good news – mine’s the amber with wavy line!
Maybe it simply needs topping up to max? I’ll try that first.
…After initial occurrence I have nailed it all the way to 90 and it doesn’t repeat (after stopping on the hard shoulder to check levels).
The last time I used flushing oil was 30 years ago on an Austin 1100 & it took out the head gasket. I’m reasonably sure that won’t happen again! I did wonder if I’d have enough room to drop the sump pan to clean the strainer? An oil change on these leaves a couple of litres in the sump pan. Would that residue of flushing oil be ok left in the system?
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John
That's exactly what I was wondering. Unless it's very low, that's likely a faulty oil level sensor; they've always given trouble on everything from Merc to VW.
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If its an oil level light, combined with possibility of leaving flushing oil in the sump then I would not use the flushing oil. If its an oil flow/pressure problem then yes !
Never worked on 1 of these but unsure why all oil won't drain out for an oil change though !
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Hi John, I would either have it tested with ( or fitted with) a mechanical oil pressure gauge to observe whats really happening with oil pressure.
Regards
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Hi John,
I have a 2003 3.2 DID my friend has a 2004 and previously a 2001 and they have all done exactly what yours does. Speak to your dealer about a software upgrade or replacement oil level sensor.
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I added one litre of oil, putting the level about 3mm above max on the dipstick. Went straight out & up the motorway and no light came on…Geronnimo! (or is it Eureka?)
yorkiebar - I was wrong about not being able to drain it completely. I thought the drain plug was above the lowest point on the sump, but I've had a good look under there today & I was wrong. Also my idea of dropping the sump pan isn't feasible since the area is too cluttered with components.
Oilrag – The only reason I haven’t put a mechanical gauge on it, is that I’ve not found an obvious tapping on the block. I can see what looks like the level switch below/behind the oil filter, but I doubt this doubles as a pressure switch….?
Vum – I’m most encouraged that mine’s not the only one doing this! If you know of any other little foibles which 3.2 DIDs are likely to throw, I’d be grateful if you could post.
Screwloose – Oil pressure lights used to be amber! I’m glad you told me to read the handbook!
It looks as though it’s that level sensor. Other than that, I think I’ll give it a few oil changes at 3,000mile intervals and leave flushing alone unless I get further trouble.
With many thanks again to all who have helped me.
John
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Hi there
There is a recall on this with Mitsubishi. I had my car done yesterday and all is well. Its free too! They also did the HBB brake issue and the brakes are sharper under heavy breaking!
Mark Warren (www.nemark.co.uk)
Edited by markwarren on 10/06/2010 at 11:25
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