What model of Skoda is your PD diesel fitted into? The undertrays on the NS engined versions are tedious to remove but not difficult - remember that there are 2 1/4 turn fasteners in each front wheel arch.
The filter housing is a favourite if your car has been "expertly" serviced. The cap should be loosened and replaced using a 14 sided socket. Many places don't use this tool and resort to a strap wrench - which cracks the plastic cap. Re-tighten to 25 Nm only.
A further possibility, assuming the sump plug is OK, is the oil level/temperature transducer which is visible on the bottom of the sump. It's fitted to the sump with an 'O' ring seal and these sometimes leak - although not often badly. Why VAG put the thing at the bottom of the sump, rather than above the oil level with the probe dipping into the oil is quite beyond me.
Hope you find your leak and that the engine is undamaged. Remember when you put the undertray back (if it's a NS engined car) that the tray slots in under the front bumper in a few places before you put all the screws back.
659.
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Got a Golf TDI with the PD engine in at the moment for turbo replacement after the turbo shaft broke, It had emptied the sump into the exhaust. Also seen them with cracked sumps as they ride quite low and are prone to getting damaged.
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Thanks guys
I filled up with oil and drove the 30m to garage. All my lovely oil ran out before I could get my undertray off over the pit, so the pit and I were both black
Although undertray was undamaged, leak traced to cracked aluminium sump, just above sump plug. It is at local engineering workshop now, trying to be welded. New one £92 (cheap for the work in it) but what a stupid idea to use aluminium, as steel would have taken this and just deformed slightly. Minimal weight saving. And so complicated, with access via small holes in the casting for 4 holes very very difficult. And it bolts to the transmission, but why (unless slight rigidity)
Thought I would get the corrrect sealant, but £15.63 for what I usually pay £4 for, but any excess will find its way to the oil.
Anyone any experience of refitting? Had to use a 1/4 inch drive 10mm to get the awkard ones off. Perhaps need a 10mm 1/4 drive with a built in joint. What a pig on your own
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What model Skoda do you have, Dave?
659.
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Octavia 1.9TDI (pre PD diesel). Used on all VW group vehicles
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>>And it bolts to the transmission, but why (unless slight rigidity)
It's predominantly an NVH feature - the main purpose of cross-bolting an alloy sump into the transmission is to stiffen, by increasing the depth of the working section, the first or fundamental bending vibration mode of the engine and transmission together - imagine the entire engine & gearbox deforming like a banana. This change increases the stiffness of the engine/gearbox, increases the natural frequency associated with the fundametal (and subsequent) bending mode(s), and in general reduces the amplitude of vibration.
Number_Cruncher
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hello, I was able to MIG weld the crack in my sump (in my case it was a crack over the sump plug caused by hitting a kerb), .. just used normal silicone gasket sealant on the joint it's been ok since. Needs to be washed out will cellulose thinners to remove the oil out the crack or it wont weld properly. All the bolts did take a bit of finding i remember.
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forgot to add i tightened the sump up very loose then left it overnight for the gasket sealant to go off slightly before fully tightening..stops all the goo getting squeezed out and getting somewhere it shouldn't. Think i had to use an allen key and 1/4" drive socket with extension to get at all the bolts, can imagine it being quite a chore without a car hoist.
should fit the sump plug before welding so it doesn't get full of weld spatter and fill it with paraffin overnight to check for leaks before fitting ,
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Thanks dieselhead
The guy who is doing it (fingers crossed) identified the presence of oil in crack, and need to grind out to ensure good penetration, and I hope is doing it with TIG.
Local garage has suggested the bolts have a 5mm hexagon hole in head, and that this is best way to to initial tightening, and have loaned me a tool they made, plus a ball headed allen key.
I agree with comments re standing paraffin in to check for leaks, but I am on a tight schedule tonight, leaving work early so I can drill out the sealant from holes in sump, position car over pit, clean sump and base of block again, apply Skoda gold plated sealant (local garage confirm they use cheapest on market) and call wife out to hold sump in position for 4 minutes while I put the first 4 bolts in. She wants to go to Pilates by 7:15 so all must be done to this point by then, or I have to wait for her return at 9
Incidentally, the car had extended service, so oil changes were at 20k, 30k and now 36k. Haynes manual suggests 6k was the original interval. Lots of really black sludge in sump, which makes we wonder how much damage the extended intervals create
Haynes says I have an oil level gauge, so lets hope that is what I heard, and not the low pressure alarm.
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Didn't realise that they done extended services on the pre pd engines.
Also i wouldn't worry about the oil being black because when you get the car home from having new oil put in it will be black again,It doesn't stay fresh looking like petrol engines.
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All done, fingers crossed. My Laser 3117 tool to tighten the oil filter did not arrive as promised, so I did it hand tight instead of 25NM, but my hand tight is pretty tight. Weld looked like crow carp, but did not leak paraffin or oil after 30 minutes idle
the 5mm tool (1/4 inch extension welded onto 5mm allen key) worked well, but had been softened by welding, and the 10mm socket was called back into use.
My buddy who is responsible for 1500 cars on hire has had one golf with 7 sumps in 3 years.
I put it back on in less time than it took me to take it off, and I was forced to sit in car for 2 hours listening to CD to gain brownie points (married men will have to explain this to the others)
Thanks for the help guys. Now to my 309...........
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An update, as information and perhaps amusement.
a week after this I noticed oil on the drive. Removing the undertray showed a seeping weld. Took it back to welder, who told me to take it off and bring it in, and he would do it again.
That I did. Took it back one lunchtime and off the little man toddled, but the forman did not do it himself but gave it to what I would call the YTS lad who bought it back after 10 minutes. At my assistance he took away yet again and put another weld on the inside, and more weld on the source of the leak.
Put it on again, and this time one of the bolts was tighter than the others (oh god I hope I have not crossthreaded it)
Ran engine for 20 minutes and no leak at this point on weld, but 2" away a much slower seep started.
Went back on Saturday morning and informed foreman I wanted my money back. How he dared slide under car to check my story I don't know, as he was certainly in kicking range.
Have now bit the bullet and ordered a new sump, complete with opening for the oil level gauge. Spares man assures me that swopping over this component is not a problem, and they have done it "many times" without a problem. Lets hope that 3rd time lucky really works, as this is getting me down. This time will do the whole job one night in the week, as let's face it, I am getting practiced at it
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