Grateful for any help,
Our is a Volkswagen Golf 1988 4=E 1.8 .
On a run back from Brighton to Bordon the autochoke stuck on and it used so much fuel that my Range Rover would have been proud.
With an Escort mk3 we had a while back i just took it apart and cleaned it up an it worked fine.
This time the choke looks the same (bi metal coil) except there is a wire running into the housing and was a fine spring running around inside to an end.
In the workshop manual it says to test the circuit with a wire and bulb and if it does not light up discard.
What does this wire do ?.
I have bypassed the water pipe for the choke and rigged up a crude mechanism for opening and closing the choke but it still runs like it is over choked when warm.
thanks
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if you intend keeping this car i suggest you dump this carb and buy a new/reconditioned carb,golfs were always a pain when the carbs came to the end of their life,escorts were easy to sort with a choke cable for a bit more life,look in yellow pages for a carb expert there are still some around.
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Yes i would like to keep the car,i suppose that at 175000 miles it may be a bit worn ,so i will enquire about a recon carb.
thanks
ps what does that wire do ?
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Pierburgs are a bit difficult to set up properly and as they age are a bit problematic. Try these people: www.carbex.demon.co.uk/
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This wire feed the preheater for the choke back off. But a 12v 5 or 6 watt bulb in series with the wire to prove is draws current, if not change it for a new one. Regards Peter
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my golf driver 1.6 missfires when driving and even at full operating temperature it still idles at 1800rmp... and yes it drinks petrol like a muscle car. ive got a new thermostat ready to fit. could it be a case of driving stuck on choke? i no the mixture is far to rich and need to lean it off.
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There's a spring that can break off the choke flap, therefore leading to all sorts of running problems.
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With the engine hot remove the air filter so that you can see into the carb.The choke flap should be fully open,it is the first one,do not confuse with the throttle which you can identify by operating the accelerator at the carb.A bit of lube on the linkages,on the outside of the carb,is a good idea.You could get a garage to stick their gastester on it to see if it is running rich,could need a new carb..
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do you mean remove the intake so u can see ontop of the carb, i removed that this morning, just to make sure it was clean, didnt realise i was looking at what could be the choke flap. we have a gas analyser at work.
allowance... hydrocarbons ppm1200 actuall... 612 pass
allowance... CO2 3.50% actuall... 4.60% Fail
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hc is low for 4.6 co i would be more inclined to think your mixture is too high
but i read your earlier post and you know this?
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The high idle speed when hot is a definite sign of Waxstat failure. This is the black plastic (or sometimes can be steel) module that sticks out the front of your carb, with two heating pipes connected to it. It is secured by two screws. When working correctly the wax inside expands, heated by the engine, and pushes out a pin which adjusts the throttle to reduce engine revs when warm. If you find your choke flap is vertical, hence working ok, then the waxstat is worth investigating. It can be tested by immersing in a cup of very hot water and watching to see if the pin moves. Available from German and Swedish for £30-00 ish.
Do a HJ forum search on Pierburg. Just changed mine for a Weber and deep, deep joy.
Andy
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i can smell petrol from the exhuast and it drinks petrol, like really drinks it, £10 = 40mile max. it was owned by a boy racer (tit) previous so its got a drilled airbox and a k&N panel airfilter.
i tested the choke flap today, when cold it was pretty much closed, at operating temp it was fully open but still reving its self 1600 - 1800 rpm.
i will investigate the wax stat as the symptoms and infomation you have gave me, adds up. thanks... one last thing when i take the intake off so im looking at the top of the carb its self ie choke flap... the vertical screw in the left... does it adjust mixture/idle?
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Check that you have hot water circulating thorough the hoses to the waxstat. It is very common for the rubber water seal between the inlet manifold and cylinder head to expand with age and strangulate the water flow leaving the waxstat cold and therefore in the fast idle position.
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sounds like a top tip im in work 2morrow gonna take a good look, thanks
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get to a boot sale sunday morning to dig out a haynes manual,good reading and it will show you where the mixture screw is.
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ive found it. its rite on top of the carb next to the choke flap. so using the emissions machine at work im gonna tweak it. im gonna check my waxstat as im idling high constantly.
i think i may have cured my misfire. ive replaced the flexipipe from the exhuast manifold and jubilee cliped it at each end so the connection is 100%... there isnt enough vacuum to lift the exhuast flap so as im drivin the carb is freezing inside.. ive put a screw underneath it now holding it about 60% open, providing warm air. and although its not so cold tonight it appears to be running fine.>> get to a boot sale sunday morning to dig out
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good man.be careful with the screw if its in monkey metal, they soon give up the ghost, take your time.
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I f you have an Oxfam bookshop nearby they have shelves of manuals at a fiver each.
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