Damn! I fixed all that stuff before of it not running righ, that was new plug leads, disi cap rotor arm and plugs.
It ran well for a few runs (I don't use it that often). Today drove into town, waited for missus to finish her appointment. 1hour and half later, it wouldn't start!
It turns over but it's like it has no spark. and the fuel pump wasn't kicking in for a second when the ignition was turned, as it usually does. So I bridged the fuel relay, and tried it but still just like there is no spark.
I had no tools with me - it was hard enough getting a bit of wire to bridge the relay.
Had to come home on the train. I intended to go & get it tonight but got problems with the other car, so I'll hopefully get to go tommorow morning.
So what am I looking for? how about coil? but that wouldn't stop the fuel pump firing up would it?
Hopefully it will start from stone cold and I can drive it home.
arghhh.
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Damn! I fixed all that stuff before of it not running righ, that was new plug leads, disi cap rotor arm and plugs.
But you still kept the old hall sender? This could be it. Remember, without it, there is no spark or fuel (IIRC).
However, what confuses me, is that the fuel pump malarkey. So, when you turn the ignition on, you don?t get that 'buzz....tink' you usually do, or was it just delayed? And, after you bridged the relay, was the pump kicking in?
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Try giving the (relatively exposed) fuse box a good service. Take the fuses out, then remove corrosion without removing any protective metal platting on the contacts, push the contacts together so they grip the fuses better, then some wd40 when it's all back together. A bit of wd40 on the cable ends too so it goes into the cable end with capilliary action, rather than the damp under the bonnet doing the same thing.
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It did not start and I had to tow it home.
There is a white gooey stuff come out of one corner on the coil. and the coil primary windings are 0 ohms as they should be. the secondary winding is 'open circuit' i.e. no movement on the meter it should be 3000ohms
So the coil is gone then...
I don't know why that stopped the fuel pump buzz.
Yes, when I bridged the relay the fuel pump worked but no spark (by ear only - did not physically check for a spark)
Do I really have to fit the same spec coil? cos they are something like 60 quid!
cheers
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There is a white gooey stuff come out of one corner on the coil. and the coil primary windings are 0 ohms as they should be. the secondary winding is 'open circuit' i.e. no movement on the meter it should be 3000ohms So the coil is gone then...
According to the haynes manual, when the coil is up to operating temp, the primary resistance should be 0.5 to 1.2 ohms. Secondary winding should be 3000-4000 ohms (as you say)
Yeah, I would imagine the same spec coil would be best, but its probably not worth buying a brand new one. I got one from my local scrappy for a tenner, and it was ok.
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Trouble is Roberson, my coil is like a square transformer in shape, about 3inch cuboid thing. It's not a standard round looking coil from older cars. So I think it will be hard to find in a scrappy.
I'm going to have to ask someone with Etka what other cars it is fitted in.
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So was mine.
Any scrappy with a series 3 Polo should have a one that fits, since I?m pretty sure they're all the same. 1.0's 1.3's (inc your GT) have the same coil.
I would even go as far to say that this coil wasn't unique to the Polo. Golfs/Jettas and Passats may also have same coil.
However, its probably best to check with Etka none the less, and see what other VAG cars it was fitted to. Then if the scrap yard doesn't have a Polo in, you can ask if it has any of the other models in instead ; -)
For example: type 6N0 905 104 into the Volk-apart website (www.volkswagenspares.com) and it says its fitted to a few vehicles.
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Roberson is right,these type are quite common.Both styles are transformers and would work as such,but they are dealing with short bursts of D.C.instead of A.C..The traditional cylinder is filled with oil for cooling.
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Thanks Roberson, you have pointed me in the right direction again. I discovered from vwspares.co.uk that the equivalent one they sell is the Beru ZSE001 tinyurl.com/dr9rz and by google searcing their site I discovered it is fitted to:
VW
Caddy pick up (whatever that is) 1.6 '97 >'01
Corrado 2.0 all years?
Golf '92 > '98 most 4 cyl
Lupo 1.0 AER engine
Passat basic models '90 > '97
Polo '90 > (from the volks apart site)
Sharan 2.0 '96 >'00
Transporter 2.0 & 2.5 '91 > '04
Seat
Alhambra 2.0 '96 > '01
Arosa 1.0 & 1.4 some models
Cordoba (most inc estate) '93 > '99
Ibiza (most) '93 > '99
And possibly on skodas too but they weren't listed for coils.
Very expensive in Europe:
Ebay Germany 30 Quid! tinyurl.com/9fx33
New from a French shop 87 Quid! tinyurl.com/anv7n
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btw how much did you pay?
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The coil was £10. I thought this was steep for a used part, but I was desperate at the time. It works ok, and I still have my old one, which is now a bit worse for wear, being rattled around in the boot for a year or so!
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Mine was a tenner also! He wanted 15 but no way was I paying that, for something 10 years old.
When I was in the scrap yard I tested two coils neither one worked, then I realised I had to change the scale, then they both worked.
Anyway, I fitted it and it started, but then it didn't restart again just like before.
So I did some more testing on the fuel pumps and the relay, and I have concluded it was the relay that has gone. I re-tested my old coil and it was fine!!!!!!! I had the meter on the 10K scale and not on the 1K scale. I could kick myself.
I hope I can get my tenner back, dunno whether to lie and say it's duff, or tell a half truth that it doesn't fit right (different shape). Or the whole truth that it wasn't broken.
Ho Hum.
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If there's "....white gooey stuff come out of one corner on the coil", i'd be inclined to keep the new one in there, for the sake of 10 quid......
Keep the old one as a spare.
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Most scrap yards give a money back guarantee,but only if faulty/not working,if the component is ok I doubt they will--unless you know the guvnor
--
Steve
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I got two relays from a scrappy. I fitted them the other night and still engine was dead, this time no spark was present, when I'm sure the other day I got a spark.
I left it alone feeling p'eed off for 24 hours.
Today I saw I had left the fuel relay holder in the wrong place and it had gotten all wet, so I had to dry it off first. Then I fitted the new relay again and I fiddled with each of the 16 fuses.
It started! I then replaced the old relay and it still started. Then I replaced the old coil and it still started. I haven't taken it for a long drive yet - to heat up the coil. But it is starting all the time now. I topped up the coolant too.
Now I have the spare coil and relays in the boot with mini toolkit all ready just incase.
I have no idea what the problem was/is but I hope it doesn't come back and if it does I hope I can fix it with one of my spare bits.
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Update:
It happened again. Changed coil and relay no change, fiddled with all 16 fuses, and it started, this confirms it is just a dirty fuse. Next time I will fiddle each fuse one at a time to find out which fuse it is and find out what that fuse is for, hopefully to explain why this dodgy fuse causes the ECU to go into a safe mode.
Happy motoring, except for the water which drips onto my shoes (huge hole under the battery, needs welding, will probably mean relocating the battery to the boot, (or fitting a smaller battery). I Have removed all the carpeting and sound proofing until I get the hole welded up. Have to wear wellies when driving in the rain!
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Just a stab in the dark this one. Try and clean the fuse contacts with some wet and dry/sand paper. Perhaps placing some contact grease on each end upon re-fitting. Not sure if this would work, and no doubt someone better qualified will soon come along.
As for the battery, are you sure there is no way you can keep it in the plenum chamber? I wouldn't like having the battery in the boot, you lose space for a start and its probably more hassle trying to re-wire it back up. I can't see how it would rot out, if after welding, it was thoroughly covered in waxoil / underseal (or other rust proofer). Bearing in mind that really both sides of the welded plate would have to be done, not just the surface with the battery on, which might be awkward/dangerous when there welding involved!
Thanks for keeping us updated
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It was welded a few years ago and covered with sealant. And now it's gone again. Welding it will cause the chamber to be reduced in size, and will stop the battery from sliding under the support bracket at rear of chamber. I suspect this time half that bracket will have to be cut off in order to get a good patch welded on.
This may mean the battery will not be able to be secured (not that it matters except for an MOT with an overly inquisitive tester.
Once I have the hole welded up I will be able to see if the battery still fits in this hole, it's a rediculously tight fit now, so later there might not be enough room, hence smaller battery (possibly unsecured) or battery in boot.
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The reason the welding you had done has rotted again,even though sealed,is because garages put underseal onto bare metal.This does not work,metal must always be primed and painted before undersealing if you want it to last.
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Don't know about VW systems but most EFI run the pump for upto 10 secs.when you turn on the ignition to pressurize the system;it then stops till a relay gets an output signal from the coil ie. when you crank.It is also a legally required safety feature-turns the fuel pump off if engine is not rotating.
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It's the same with this car, pump runs for about 1 sec then waits for the key to be turned further. This dirty fuse is stopping the initial pump run and therefore stops the car starting all together. So I am just waiting on it happening again so I can positively identify which fuse it is. Just to satisfy my own curiosity. I could if I wanted to clean all the fuses now and it will never happen again, but I'd rather know which fuse it is before I do that.
It's not the fuel pump fuse because that is a seperate fuse above the main fuse box.
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