I know that there have been quite forceful opinions on the wisdom of running an imported Japanese MPV (Toyota Masterace). However, with due consideration to it's low purchase price and it's full complement of "extras" compared to the traditional types of MPV, and acceptance that these vehicles are not for the fainthearted owner in that it is essential that the cambelt, cooling systems, electrics etc have to be checked/maintained and fully understood to obtain satisfactory and satisfying performance, I have been more than pleased with my vehicle over the last nine months. One drawback is that, because, so I understand, Japanese roads are not "salted" in winter, there is no underseal on these vehicles. The underside of my Masterace is excellent and, I assume, the lack of corrosion is due to adequate anti-corrosion
(galvanizing ?) materials being used in the body construction. As I want to ensure that the underside remains in good condition, could anyone advise on the best way to underseal ? Have any classic car renovators a view on "Waxoyl" and it's use by the amateur ? Or, any other recommendation re an underseal for "home" application (I have a compresssor & spray equipment)or, the whereabouts, these days, of any commercial underseal Companies ? Any helpful comments would be much appreciated.
Thanks
|
Waxoyl is pretty good. Just remember if you drill holes to insert a spray tube check what you are drilling through to and use a stop on the bit. Paint the fresh edges before using any waxoyl and seal the holes up well afterwards.
Thinning waxoyl with white spirit helps it run into nooks and crannies - park on a tarp or patch of grass as you don't want it running out onto your driveway.. Best done in heat of summer really.
Getting the right spray takes a while - a heavy mist is what you are after that give 360deg coverage. You'll have to play around with number of pin holes, configuration and pressure - otherwise you just get a lump of wax in one pot and nothing where it's needed. Make sure you haven't blocked designed in drain holes afterwards.
I mixed underseal with some lumpy old waxoyl and a bit of GTX. A real mess to put on - a few coats under wheel arches etc but it seems to be doing an excellent job of preventing chipping and hence no rust has reappeared. When old crappy underseal starts to breakaway or chips through it holds salty water next to the bare metal and accelerates the problem it was put there to stop. You can find large rusty holes under otherwise OK looking old underseal.
I'd wait until summer.... just wash the underside well over winter.
Piers
|
|
|
I have always undersealed cars from new and i would advise you do the job your self to ensure its done correctly.The A4 i have is well protected with a rubberised underseal in areas of stone impact with the box sections coated in a waxol type coating.
All ive done is underseal subframes and other suspect areas. I once had a car drilled for rust treatment, all the holes introduced rust!
Don't i would advise do any drilling there is usually plenty of holes available. also after the first year i inspect and reseal or apply grease if i think its best ,usually round brake bled nipples,tracking adjusting threads.
Don't bother removing any wing linnings, i never have and my old Primera 6 years on has no rust through the wings.
|
|
|
John,
Waxoyl is a top product. I've used it for 25yrs plus and been completely satisfied.
It will brush onto light existing rust and track into seam crevices better than anything heavier. They also do an underseal which is like a thick waxoyl and good for wheelarches and other heavy wear areas.
DIY injection into cavities is a little hit and miss but better than not doing it.
David
|
I agree with all that has been said, including by my near-namesake David W. (No, we are not the same person!)
I would just like to add that, as well as thinning Waxoyl with at least 10% white spirit, I stand the can in a bucket of hot water AND use it on the hottest day of summer if possible. It needs to come out of the spray nozzle as a translucent liquid since it cools very quickly on hitting the metal of the car.
I first used Waxoyl in 1975 on my 1972 Triumph 2500 and then topped up the treatment every 3 years or so for a number of years. I still have the car!
|
How much does the Triumph weigh by now! The sills must be solid lumps of waxoyl! :-)
If you intend to do any welding to fix existing rust keep waxoyl well away from the area, and clean off as much existing wax as possible. The heat will melt it, it will run down into the welding - causing a bad weld and it catches fire, usually on the inside of panels.... I learnt to weld for a bit and then look up and see if there was any smoke. When you see flames flickering halfway down the inside of a sill you start to worry (I found the CO2 for MIG welding works OK as a fire extingisher.....).
Piers
|
|
|
|
|
Thanks to all for the advice etc re my undersealing query
|
|
|
one other thing... before you apply underseal go over the area with a fine tooh comb looking for spots of rust in areas where the paint has been scraped... clean off every trace of it and paint it... let it dru and then underseal... otherwise you just end hiding places that might eat away at the metal unseen
Rust NEVER sleeps
~R
BTW www.boeshield.com/index.htm is the best line of products I have ever used to prevent rust on things like cables and polished metal I do not know the UK outlet But it looks form the web page that a Yamaha Bike dealer would have their branded version of it... I have used it at sea for many years and nothing else even comes close... those with frozen locks should also consider it...
~R
|
|
|
