I live in bog standard semi detached with driveway up the side of the house, mono bloc at back leading to garage.
Up to the monobloc, my driveway was once stones, but is now compacted stones into ground, leaving it very muddy.
Looking to get the driveway done and looking at either mono bloc or tarmac. Whichever I get, I will need to put in some drainage as well.
Benefit of monobloc is that it would blend in with existing monobloc at rear of house. However, that is showing signs of "sinking" in areas where the car goes over, and is quite badly stained where the alloy wheels get power blasted. However my gut feeling is monobloc is dearer although in process of arranging quotes.
Tarmac benefits would seem to be easier to keep clean however I have heard horror stories about tarmac breaking up, roots pushing up through etc.
Also re drainage, should I be asking for actual drain covers and drains to be put in and fed to main drain or is it sufficient just to get manual drains put in whereby they dig deep and fill with gravel or some sort to absorb the water?
Keeping it motor related, it is obviously for my cars and each week I would be washing them on the whichever surface I finally choose. Also, as it is quite a narrow driveway then the chances are that my car will be running on exactly the same "track" all the time. Would this cause sinking in one choice more than another?
Any thoughts on the tarmac v monobloc debate would be appreciated.
|
Next door neighbour lays monobloc paving (my son works for him during holidays) He is a Marshalls franchisee.
They lay quite good drives, well prepared with a deep digout, special crushed hardcore (scalpings) thats compressed with a "whacker" then the bedding sand and finally the blocks. Everything he lays has a level and fall for water and if required he builds in covered gutters. You only need them if you have a large fall or a large area with no run off (drives normally fall to one side). Every block surface will get compressed by cars over a period of time but are very easy to repair.
Tarmac is the same, its all in the preparation. Good digout, thick layer sheet for the green stuff, hardcore, compressed and a good thick layer of hot lay tarmac.
Tarmac show stains less but if you have anything dropping oil or fluids on it they will soften it.
|
|
Forgot to add, tarmac will rut out as well over time but is much harder to fix.
|
Know some blokes up my way will do yer drive mister..cash only..best tarmac..left over from a job mate...
Check out the firm who does the job BEFORE the start.
Clive.
|
What is under the drive is more important than the surface.
Have a wander around www.pavingexpert.com/
|
As RF says ,the preparation of the base and proper drainage is everything , just as in any road or motorway.
I would go for the block paving as it looks much better than tarmac and is easier to repair.
Go to your local builders merchants and ask them to recommend a paving firm approved by Marhalls or call them direct for a recommended firm or three in your area.
It is a case of you definitely get what you pay for....check out the local gipsy / tinker encampment and take note of the vans.
Do NOT use someone from there or who has only a mobile phone number. Make sure you have a home or business address and check previous work for your pavior.If in doubt - walk away.
Check out that the business address given is correct - I have often seen vans with what appear to be genuine local addresses parked at the latest illegal encampment.
|
Check out that the business address given is correct - I have often seen vans with what appear to be genuine local addresses parked at the latest illegal encampment.
Perhaps they were there to lay a new drive?
|
|
|
Look out for the vans and lorries that have ofice and mobile numbers arranged so:
Office 0700 594 XXXX
Mobile 07833 643 XXX
They are both 11 digit mobile numbers but have been spaced to looked like they are not.
The vehicles can also be decorated with some very elaborate fancy looking business names.
|
|
The most durable drive surface i've known is called 'printpave',basically coloured concrete printed with the design you want,cobbles etc.Used by a lot of petrol stations,so has to be very tough and oil etc does not soak in.
|
|
Printpave is very tough--it's concrete with good PR--but it's bad news if you ever have a problem with the services beneath it because you can't just dig up a bit of it to put a trench in without destroying the (not very good) illusion of paving. Block paving done well is by far the best because if you have to dig it up it can be put back down again and you'd never know.
|
A few years ago, neighbours on both sides (much to my surprise) engaged a band of 'travelling contractors' to monobloc their drives.
I have to say that this particular crew did a really good job which has stood the test of time, so far. I wonder how they chose these guys out of all the cowboys though.
|
My parents laid monobloc paving about 22 years ago at their house using adopted road grade kerb stones to form the edge. The blocks have not moved except for where tree roots have pushed them up. This was easy to repair by removing said blocks, digging down and cutting away the roots and replacing the blocks. Can't see the repair.
They used yellow and beige blocks which have weathered and stained a little, but when powerwashed every two years, come up looking really well.
--
Espada III - well if you have a family and need a Lamborghini, what else do you drive?
|
|
|
I had my driveway done with printpave six years ago, it has proved to be trouble free and durable but there are signs that the top surface is beginning to wear away especially where the family cars are turned to get onto the road front first The surface can be refinished but cheap it aint.
|
|
|
|
|
|
That's not a very good disguise. Anyone with half a brain knows that anything starting '07..' is a mobile number.
|
Got my first quote tonight for monobloc - £4000. Spoke to a guyt who was doing one of the other driveways in my street and thats what he advised me.
Total professional outfit though:
1. If it was the company that he works for that was quoting, it would be nearer £8000!
2. Only gave me a mobile number.
3. Told me how many bricks, sand etc wthat I would need so that I could order it and pay dirct for it.
4. If I needed any pipes for drains etc he could "obtain" them whilst on his day job!
Needless to say, looking for more quotes! Thanks for all your comments, one of the key things I feel as well as ground preparation is actual recommendation from someone they have already dealt with.
Assuming the figures he quoted were correct (and I know they may be well off the mark), is it worth paying double the price for the same people to do the same job? OK you will have bvery little comeback but is it worth that amount extra to get a phone number to complain to?
Is there anyone in the Lanarkshire area able to recommend someone suitable?
|
|
My next door neighbour accidently ripped out a gas pipe as he was doing a dig out at one job. (he digs it deep so uses a mini backhoe). He has £2 million public liability insurance. Does your man working on the side have that backup?
|
This is an excellent point. If your contractor reduces nextdoor's house to a pile of monobloc it's going to be expensive.
For information I had 100 sq m of block paving laid by a proper company, plus a new water supply pipe (about 90 feet) fitted and some drain work done, for £5000 two years ago. They gave the median quote of five but were impressive.
|
BobbyG - Do not take short cuts or it WILL end in tears believe me.I have been buying materials professionally for nearly forty years and used to handle all the subcontract work for a very large Civil Engineering contractor.
Use a properly established and insured firm.I would get at least three quotes.
Go onto Marshalls website - put in your postcode and they will advise of locally approved contractors for their paving.
A quick Google came up with RS Paving of Blairgowrie T/N 08081448866 who are advertising as Scotlands biggest approved Marshalls installer.I have no connection with this firm by the way.
Also why not haggle with these guys , they will quote what they think they can get away with and there will always be room to negotiate.
Get a breakdown from them of the cost of the paving materials alone and check the price with your builders merchant. Bear in mind that these guys will be getting trade discounts on Marshall Products. Ask your pavior if you can supply the materials if you can get them cheaper but bear in mind that any delay caused by late or non supply will be held against you.
Pay NOTHING up front- a professional company will live with that - arrange stage payments with them and make sure that you show them politely that you know what you are talking about and will not be messed around. If you are not happy retain some of the money until the problem is fixed .
Good Luck with your hunt.
|
Also worth trying toppave.co.uk owned by ...er... Tarmac.
A nicer range of styles IMHO and they also have a list of approved installers.....
CF
|
|
|
|
