Just had Harley #1 in the family re-tyred with Metzeler Marathons because everyone I know swears by them for grip and the original factory Dunlops were getting thin after some hard rides these last 12 months. Indeed Dunlops are not renowned for their grip when you lay your baby into the twisties with some degree of enthusiasm, but you always knew exactly how far you could push it. For which I can vouch, having enjoyed some buttock-clenching moments but always coming out the other side with flair and some credible wear on the chicken strips.
But instead of the bike running on rails with the Dunlops as it used to, the front end now seems woolly and vague. When I lay her over in the curves steering has become very light and not like before when if you chose a line and powered through it the bike stayed on it like a train on rails. Pressures are correct and the head bearings have just been replaced plus fork oil changed. Do new tyres need a break-in period? Could this make a difference?
Tom Shaw any ideas? SjB? Anybody? We've got a 1200km run planned for Easter and I don't like the way the bike's behaviour seems to have changed. (Don't tell me go back to Dunlops......I'm an OAP on a limited budget :+( )
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Tyres can take a couple of hundred miles to break in, also I understand that the compounds sold in the US are a bit harder due a lot of concrete, as opposed to tarmac, roads so therefore might take a bit longer still.
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Hi G.
Sorry to read of your problem.
A mate of mine had a similar problem with one of the original Kwak GPZ600s that he rebuilt to a tremendously high standard a couple of years ago. [Aside: On a recent track day, on his current steed (a VFR750 of about ten years vintage), he was running the wheels off the Flash Boys on their Gixers and Blades, so this boy can ride! He came home with parts missing from the bike, or worn away, through lean angle!]
Back to the thread. IIRC, the cause in his case was the curved profile of both front and rear not suiting the geometry of the bike. He reluctantly binned the brand new tyres and replaced them with a matched pair that included a more aggressively profiled front tyre. By this I mean 'pointier' across the tread profile from side to side.
Problem solved.
Not what you wanted me to write though!
Any chance of you comparing tyre profiles old and new to see which 'way' you have gone, if any?
BTW, from a quick web search I found others who have complained of Marathons being vague on cruisers. You are not alone, it seems.
Stay safe, and enjoy the Easter run.
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As well as possible profile issues already covered, there is also the issue of the surface of the tyre still having some of the mold release coating on it. When the tyres are molded, the mold is coated in a slippery coating to allow the tyre to become free of the mold once ist set.
Take a very rough file to remove the outer layer of the tyre and see if this helps.
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I read often, only post occasionally
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If the rear has had a lot of 'vertical' miles and is a bit flat in the center of the tread then you will notice quite a change even when replacing with new tyres of the same make. But you knew that anyway. I only said it as I've just got a new pair and the feel is totally different (same tyres). I put mine down to less lean during our miserable winter months.
Martin
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Bit preturbed how can you "lay a Harley into the twisties" perhaps this is the problem! you are asking it to do something it's probably not very good at. The Dunlops may have been specially designed to aid the Hog's cornering qualiities the Metzelers probably were not.
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The break in period for new tyres shouldn't be more than about 100 miles, more than enough to get rid of the release agent and scrub them in especially on a heavy bike like a HD. I have found that some tyres just do not suit certain bikes, despite being perfect for others. I have Brigestone BT 020's on my Inazuma, and for once I am happy that they are near replacement as they don't inspire the same confidence that the original BT 54's did, despite the press praising them up. I've had the back break away a couple of times when I've not really been pushing it, and experienced a real brown trouser moment when I would swear the front stepped about a foot sideways on one bend.
If they don't improve quickly, Growler, I would bite the bullit and dip into the pension for what you know works with the bike. Nothing spoils a bike like tyres you have no confidence in.
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Not quite the same but I have ridden big BMWs for nearly 10 years now - always on Bridgestones. My current 1150RT is fine on these.
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I've ridden my 3 BMWs happily on Metzelers.A spell on Dunlops on my K75 was not good with bad tramlining.
Currently MZ4? on R1150R are great and I can really lean over and accelerate out of corners.
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I wasna fu but just had plenty.
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Totally agree with the comments ref Bridgestone and Dunlop tyres.Had 2 scary moments on my previous bike when it was shod with Dunlop rubber, both times involved the rear letting go and sliding 2-3 inches not funny and lost all confidence in them, changed them for Michelin Macadams they were fine. Current bike CBR 1000F (135 BHP) has Bridgestone BT 56 front and rear and to date have proved to be sure footed. What am i going to fit when they need changing either Bridgestones,Macadams or Continentals i would not fit Dunlops if they were given free. Haven,t tried Metzelers so could not comment.
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I've had BT020's on the R1 over winter and been very happy with them. No 'moments' and they haven't squared off like the softer tyres used over winter.
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Have a look for the tyre manufactures reccomended pressure this can vary from the pressures in your handbook I found it made a big difference with the virago.
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Hi G.
Wondered how you've got on?
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