When started cold, my mkII driver behaves fine.
Its only when it has been running a couple of minutes that the revs gradually drop and it stalls. This means I have to keep on the throttle to avoid stalling. once warm , the engine runs sweetly.
I'm guessing it makes the mixture lean too early - could this be a faulty thermo control.
The engine is an EZ and has a pierburg 2E2 fitted.
Does anyone have any experience with this or have a clue how to fix it?
(The choke has been adjusted and did not help the situation)
thanks
|
I had similar problems with a MkII a few years ago. Took it to the dealer any number of times, and they couldn't fix it either, despite £££ of work.
In the end, the engine overheated, and I suspect that all the problems were caused by a sludged up water system. When I looked back, I remember putting in some Radweld to fix a minor leak and never flushing it out, and I think (possibly naively) my problems were caused by the fallout from this.
Never had a better car than my MkIIs - even I could do half of the repairs (but keep me away from minor leaks).
Cheers.
|
its the warm up valve
when its cold,it uses the cold start valve
after a short time,,,eg when its a LITTLE bit warmer,,the cold start valve stops and the warm up valve starts....
try taking the connector OFF the warm up valve....see if that works....
if not u need a new one......and here is an old modifying trick....get a warm up valve from an AUDI 100....it has an extra pipe...this is to sense the vacumn that is caused by booting the accelerator,,it then gives it a little more petrol,,,and a little more ooommmppphhh :)...then pipe gets connected to part of the air intake system,,,,obviously the same size pipe :)
|
Warm up regulator is on an injected car, this one has a Pierburg 2E2 carb. There has been a lot of postings regarding this carburettor regarding icing and erratic idling. If the carb is icing through lack of power to the manifold heater or missing/ faulty warm air intake then the engine will gradually fade out and stall despite holding the revs up so I am going for a maladjusted waxstat. I obviously dont know the history of your car but if in the past it had a problem of a failing waxstat causing the revs to be held high the linkage may have been adjusted to compensate. If subsequently a new waxstat was fitted without resetting the linkage the fast idle may be coming off too early.
Just a thought.
Andrew
--
Simplicate and add lightness!!
|
How about a fault with the pull down unit?
My understanding is that when running, the inlet manifold depression causes the pull down unit to pull off the choke flap.
When cold it will run happily on an overchoked setting.
As it warms up it is then effectively overchoked causing it to stall, (as pull down is not working).
When hot auto choke is fully disabled.
Check all vacuum pipes for leaks.
But first look at
www.clubgti.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=46724&PN...1
for the best explanation of carb functions.
--
pmh (was peter)
|
|
I have a mkII that used to stall intermittently but would run with the throttle wide open. The last time I had to call out Brittania Rescue, the gentleman who arrived took the air cleaner off and having started the engine squirted best part of an aerosol of solvent down the orifice while revving the engine higher than any self respecting engine ought to go. Did the job though hasn't stalled since which was at least two years ago. Didn't seem to run the big ends either! Haven't been able to satisfactorally adjust the slow running since, wants to run fast. I understand from other threads that there is a fairly obscure hole or jet in the throat of the carb that gets blocked and I wondered if the treatment had unblocked that. Also from what I read this seems quite a good carb which when it does malfunction can be baffling and has gathered a bad reputation because of that.
|
|
I have the same problem - caused by no power at the overrun cut off solenoid - therefore the 3/4 point unit is always in the retracted position - hence no idle.
When I tested I have no "negative" power - serviced by the black / brown wire - I am trying to trace this back to a relay or switch or wherever it goes but cannot find it. - Does anybody know where this goes ??
If I provide a negative then the solenoid turns on and the shaft on the 3/4 point unit extends. but this is only a tempory fix i think??
If anybody knows - let me know
Thanks
|
|
|
