Hi guys,
I should be buying a 1.25 16v at some point soon.
I was looking for some advice for this - not just general "Look for blue smoke when starting" as I know this, but specific things relating to this car/engine e.g. I know that early Zetecs had a sticking valve problem, and the 1.4 and 1.6 Zetecs often suffer terminal engine damage at about 50k miles due to 'oil starvation' problems, so anything other information of this type you can give me would be brilliant.
Also, what sort of car should I be looking for? I know just doing short journeys everyday is worse for a car than spending all day on the motorway, so if there are any hints in this area as for what to look for that would be brilliant.
It will be a big investment for me, so I don't want to buy a lemon!!
Many thanks,
Tim
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One thing to check in my opinion is who the last owners of the car were especially if they are Ghia spec. The AA bought lots and lots of Ghia's as learner cars, and i wouldn't want one of them.
Sid
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My daughter has my wife's old '97 Ghia 1.25 and it has been a gem. We purchased it early '98 from what was the original National Car Supermarket when they branched out to Middleton, they went bump not long after. I seem to remember being told they expanded too soon without the right backing/ However, I digress.
The car has been 100% reliable. Still looks good after an Autoglym treatment, the only blemishes being those inflicted by the uncaring members of the driving community, who see a parked car as a convenient guide and bump stop to cover for their own parking inadequacies.
It has been maintained as per Ford's spec. and the only real fault neccesitated replacement brake pads and discs at 13k but that was a cheap repair, I have a relative in the trade.
The car does not rust and it is pretty economical. Watch out for a wet front passenger footwell as a bulkhead seal is prone to failure. Again v. cheap to repair if you know someone who can do it for you.
A new battery is the only other thing I can think of. Oh, the washer bottle is prone to cracking at the neck, which means when you top it up it tends to lose what you have put in down to where the crack is. But it is not really of any consequence.
One thing is though after all these years it is very clattery around the top end but the last service it was given the all clear.
All in all a great little car. It is great to drive and really has only been superceded in the last few years.
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Agree with Dave E. I had a 96 Ghia 1.25 which was a fantastic car. Being the Ghia, you get rev counter, low petrol, washer, door open warning lights, electric windows, remote boot release etc. Only thing I would say, check rear wheel arches for rust.
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Adam
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Based on my experience:
Watch for
stone chips/rust round rear wheel arch/petrol cap (bad!) and especially passenger side rear post in front of rear door.
Rust behind rubber seals on front door apertures: on top and going down windscreen side.
Rust in door seams
Leaking suspension struts and clonks on rough roads due to rubber bushes wearing.
Check antifreeze is clean and red - no oil. Check radiator for leaks or oozing antifreeze.
Engine must be cold when testing it. If it is warm, leave for at least 30 minutes for all oil to drain away and then start it up with bonnet open. Any rattles means wear- walk away.
If oil is very black/thick and no service history - likely bearing/cam damage.. = new engine.
If serviced by non-Ford garage person, try to find what type of oil used. Ford use 5/30 - a 20/50 is NOT suitable and will lead to cam wear at start/sticking valves or both. DO NOT buy if wrong oils have been used.
Some clutch noise (release bearing) at idle is common. Should go when in gear. Any noises when on move from gearbox? Run away.
As mentioned before, water leaks in passenger side due to faulty door seals or from incorrectly sealed bulkhead.
Check rear wiper and heated rear window work.. cables can snag.
Watch for kerbed wheels or alloys.
Spare wheel tray can and does rust.. examine carefully plus spare wheel.
Check for exhaust rust and recent MOT to see emissions ok (read report). A new cat is £££.
If it has a sunroof and air, check both work and air is cold (in winter use heater full on to heat car and then switch to max cold. It will be slow to cool but it should) Regassing costs £50plus.. but a aircon failure may be much more...
All electrics should work - check front heated screen.
There should be NO oil leaks.
I would take overalls and a garden kneeler and peer underneath with a torch - many can be very rusty due to neglect/salt.
I have a 1.6 Ghia with all mod cons and it's a super car to drive...both in town and on open road. Do several reverses/forwards on full lock both ways to check driveshafts/bushes. Drive over rough roads to see suspension has no clonks. Accelerate hard in 2 and 3 to 6,000 rpm.(when engine warm) Engine should be very smooth and responsive. ANY misfire - walk away as could be plugs/ leads or valves etc.
They are very reliable and strong but some people can abuse anything hence my comments.
I like a lot..
madf
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Wow - thanks madf, and indeed everyone.
Is there anyway of finding out how the engine has been treated? I'd be suprised if anyone was stupid to sell a car with old, black, oil in it. I know I wouldn't - my 1.3 Endura-E's oil is always golden brown anyway!
Also anything else that is easy to cover up? E.g. I put my car into a kerb at 20mph, but after a very good tracking with a laser device, you would never know something was bent...
You're very right about people being able to abuse anything!
The thing that worries me is unintentional abuse...like the little old lady driving half a mile to work each day and sticking to the 'recommended' 10k Ford service.
But then I don't want something that's been booted from cold and generally abused.
Sorry for all the questions, but this will be a big investment for me! Even if it is only a wee Fez...
Cheers guys
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Engine abuse?
Open bonnet.
Is engine clean, or everything filthy. Or everything but oil filter and caps on engine/water/brake fluid ?
(look for some signs of maintenance)
Is oil clean, dirty or like black treacle?
If oil filter looks covered in dirt likely not to have been changed for years - watch out for clever wiping down leaving some deposits.
Remove oil filler cap. Any white deposits inside? (emulsion?)
Is alternator drive belt in good condition and no sqealing if revved hard from idle with lights and windscreen heater on?
Any oil leaks? Lots of corrosion on exhaust/nuts and bolts under body?
Battery terminals covered in whit acid corrosion.. or acid stains around battery or ust/corrosion.
When running at idle remove oil filler cap and look for oil fumes being pumped out (may stop some engines!)
Any ticking /odd noises.
madf
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Rust can be an issue with these cars, as they are not galvanised however they are without doubt better than the MK3 build but bodywork is still a concern.
Check the jack points especially the edges and the area where it meets the sills. The rear arches are without doubt worth inspection. Try a magnet on the rear arches to see if sticks.
It would be worthwhile to check the spare wheel carrier, as these are famous corrosion areas. Fortunately the fuel cap area rust issues suffered by older examples are not a problem with the MK4/5.
One final check regarding the bodywork is have a close inspection underneath where the front seats are bolted in. The metal work in this area is notoriously thin!
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Mark5 had 6 year body warranty: rear wheel arch liners and wax injection. (but watch as carl said..) The underseal near the front seat mountings tends to peel off..I removed all loose stuf and resealed with flexible underseal...
Mark4 only had 3 years body warranty.
Ghia had deadlocks. Ordinary did not.
So if you can find a good Mark5 Ghia it's the best model to buy imo (looks apart!:-)
madf
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Mark5 had 6 year body warranty: rear wheel arch liners and wax injection. (but watch as carl said..) The underseal near the front seat mountings tends to peel off..I removed all loose stuf and resealed with flexible underseal... Mark4 only had 3 years body warranty. Ghia had deadlocks. Ordinary did not. So if you can find a good Mark5 Ghia it's the best model to buy imo (looks apart!:-) madf
What did you use? I used Hammerite underseal and on the wheel arch 'lip' it has started to rust through already! (Done back in the summer) - Should it be rubbed down to bare lmettal or primer?
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