Hi guys I could do with your assistance again. I have never had so much trouble with a car as with this one.
The car is now performing great but this time it is an alarm problem. On Saturday the alarm would not respond to the remote key fob. I thought it might be a battery fault so changed it in the key but that didn\'t help. It is not responding to the transmitter and,whilst the locks respond manually I am not sure that the alarm is being activated.
My questions are as follows,
Is the alarm linked to the engine management system? I am not getting any signal that there is any fault on the management system
Could the alarm be \'confused\' and if I was to disconnect the battery for a couple of seconds then reconnect it, would this reset the alarm?
Where is the alarm unit situated,the Heynes manual does not appear give any indication of this.
Alternatively, are there any basic tests I can do to check whether the fault is in the transmitter or alarm?
Does it have to go back to a Peugeot dealer (at great expense) to have it rectified or could a local specialist or auto electrician do the job?
At least I am learning a lot about Peugeot problems
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And the type of Peugeot is..............?????
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These are the views of Robin the Technician with 35 years in the trade. I fix, therefore I am...
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And the type of Peugeot is..............?????
From his history of posts, I would say it's a 406 HDI estate.
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Hi Robin
My apologies I should have known better than assume a standard unit.
Dave is correct, it is a W reg, 406 HDI 90 estate
{Duly added to subject header. DD}
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If you are locking the car with the key in the door then the alarm system isnt being set.
The alarm control box is behind the glovbox & is a right sod to get at.
You could disconecting the car battery for a few minutes & see if that clears the fault, The radio should be ok because its coded to the imobiliser ( But check in the hand book first )
The alarm will sound unless its shut down first ( also in the Handbook )
The remote keys might just need re programing to the car.
Or you could take the car to a Peugeot dealer & let them plug the diagnostic machine in to find the fault.
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Hi,
This is a similar fault to mine- same car, same spec. Mine is intermittent but will always lock via the key in the door. Its interesting you said about the alarm control box behind the glovebox as I did take the dash end plate cover off and gave the loom a bit of a pull and the central locking did work better for a while. I guess this means a bad connection at the alarm control. Do you have to remove the glovebox and if so, how do you visually identify the control box. Why is it a sod to get at?
I look forward to your divine guidance.
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These are the views of Robin the Technician with 35 years in the trade. I fix, therefore I am...
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Yes the glovebox has to come out, There should be a black plastic cover behind the glovebox held in with 1 x Torx 20 screw, Behind this is the deadlocking control box & the alarm control box.
The reason its a sod to get at is to make the car thieves task more difficult, The Haynes manual covers removing the glovebox & which control box does what.
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This is probably a silly question - but my X plate (Sep 2000)406 Hdi Est (LX) does not have an alarm. Did they drop them from this year? If so I'm not sorry as my previous car (Rover) had a spate of false alarms and by the time it went I was glad to see the back of it - and so were the neighbours. Has an alarm ever prevented a theft? Judging by the reaction of passers-by when one goes off they seem to me a waste of money. Good immobilisers would seem to make more sense?
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The Peugeot alarm system fitted to the 406 WILL play up as it gets older & out of warranty period.
Also it doesnt have certain sensors fitted that would help protect the car more from theft.
Dont bother asking me about the sensors because I WONT post this on a public forum.
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Thanks for the invaluable information. Is the deadlocking control box and alarm control box one and the same? If not, how do you identify which is which. I think I may tackle this at the w/end as the intermittentcy is driving me nuts!! The time you want it to work when its pouring down it doesn't. I presume also the are plug in devices that you can replace at the local Pug dealer.
Thanks for the info so far- I WILL get to the bottom of this problem- I think its only a bad connection.
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These are the views of Robin the Technician with 35 years in the trade. I fix, therefore I am...
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The deadlocks & alarm are in different boxes, The alarm box will likely have "Texton" on a sticker on the outside.
If not, Unplug 1 & see what stops working.
If the alarm box is unplugged, the sounder will make a noise.
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If it only doesnt work when its raining, Its likely to be the bonnet sensor on the catch ( right hand one if memory serves me correct )
Does it beep & the alarm wont arm?
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By removing the boxes one at a time, will it be necessary to get it reprogrammed for the key, or does it retain its memory for a while?
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These are the views of Robin the Technician with 35 years in the trade. I fix, therefore I am...
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The remote locking box is in another box, It seperate from the alarm box & deadlocking box.
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Where can I find this? I am determined to rectify the cause of this intermittent cdl failure from the key plip.
Your divine guidance is as always appreciated
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These are the views of Robin the Technician with 35 years in the trade. I fix, therefore I am...
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There will be a long thin black box with a plug with 4 wires going into it in the passenger side footwell.
That box is the remote locking box.
The deadlocking box & the alarm box are both behind the glove box.
A haynes manual might be a good investment, it shows where all the boxes are & how to get at them.
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Thanks for the advice on the alarm. Because of the bad weather, this weekend was the 1st chance I have had to look at it.I found a box just under and to the right of the glove compartment but could not find any loose connections.I could have a diagnostics check done but if there were the possibility that the alarm has packed up I would rather put the £70 towards a replacement rather than just to be told there is a fault.Are there independent operators around who could do a diagnostic check for a reasonable price? I will have another look at this later however I do need your advice on another problem.
On Friday we went to a wedding at York,which is about 2hrs drive away.The car ran smoothly until we got there.I had to make a right turn and as I was accelerating up a hill the engine just died.After a couple of secs it started again but the EMS light stayed on.We went into the service and when we left(about 90 mins later)the car started and the EMS light stayed off.We had no problems going to the reception and later we set off for the 2hr run home.Again no problems starting (no EMS light),a long run up the A1 at 70/80 mph and the car responded as you would expect,cruised well and overtook with no problems. As we came off the A1, turned left onto a minor road, dropped a gear and accelerated, it died again. After a couple of secs it fired up EMS light on) and we got home ok.
Over the weekend we didn’t go far and had no problems. This morning coming to work,(a journey of about 30 miles)the engine died 3 times all under the same circumstances,twice accelerating away from roundabouts and once after switching roads and accelerating again.
It appears to me that the problem occurs when the engine is running hot, i.e. at normal running temp. It seems fine if I am holding a standard pace but the second I drop the pace, change gear etc to accelerate then there is a distinct chance it will cut out. It doesn’t seem to occur when the engine is cold, but when cold it does not accelerate smoothly.
Could the alarm and accelerating problems be linked in some way, possibly through the immobiliser or can I treat these as 2 separate problems. I had thought of some sort of fuel starvation during acceleration but the thought of an EMS fault bothers me, as this could be very expensive.
FYI a new fuel pump was fitted to the tank about 6 weeks ago
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