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In the attic - Ian Chandler

Has anybody ever had to replace a headlining in a car? Is this a task certain to cause hours of fiddling and frustration, or are there ways of achieving a decent result without too much misery?

Our 1983 Passat estate has a nice velour headlining that was stuck to a layer of polystyrene in the roof. Over the years the polystyrene has deteriorated and bits of the headlining started to hang down.

At first it was okay to use bostik - this kept the corners up, so you didn't find the view obscured. But now the whole damn lot has come away and if you were to drive the car you would tootle along with headlining sitting on your head. (I don't do this - we have laid the car up for the time being).

I was going to try to flog the car, but I can't really expect to sell it in this state. Which is annoying because it is a nice old car and runs just as well as it ever did when it was new. Such is life ....
Re: In the attic - ladas are cool
if its automatic, i will buy it from you, i really mean this, as i like the old passats.
Re: In the attic - Marc
Suggest you try Practical Classics magazine for some advice/source of specialist or buy another polystyrene unit with intact headlining from a scrapper?
Re: In the attic - John Slaughter
Ian

Yes, I replaced the headlining in our Minor. Blimey, what a job! Very different to the Passat design though.

Regards

John
Re: In the attic - Ian Cook
I did the same with an old For Popular but, as John says, the design was different then. However,you may be able to adapt the principle.

Headlinings were made in sections with 2 or 3 seams running across the car. The seams had a "return" of about 1.5" on the top (roof side) and these were stitched to rails than ran the width of the roof. You basically started at the front and tensioned it towards the sides and worked rearwards. I can't recall how it was secured at the sides,above the door,though.

Ian
Re: In the attic - John Slaughter
Ian

The Minor uses support wires in pockets across the roof. Back edge clips above rear window (you have to take the glass and rubber), front has a wooden 'plate' which clips into the front header rail. Whole thing is tensioned by wires running in pockets at sides and back, which you tension up and hold with screws. You also have to remove most interior trim for access to these. Steadily tension it front to rear and then pull the sides down, using a hair dryer to make it more flexible as necessary!

I found after I did it that even the Minor specialists avoid this one if possible. I had no choice as the original had hardened up and was torn in places. Hope the replacement is better quality

Regards

John