I know this has probably been asked before but i checked the earlier threads i still can figure it out.
My polo always starts first turn of the key but before it warms up it stalls when idleing and suffers from loss of power. Sometimes i have to put the foot to the floor to stop it from stalling.
Ive replaced the distributor cap, HT leads and frequently apply loads of wd40 to both, this helps a bit with the idleing to start with but does not stop the stalling. I have not replaced the spark plugs but they dont look that old.
There is an eletrical discharge in one of the leads im not sure if this is of any use it does not seem to fit properly.
Thanks for any replies
Kieran
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Electrical discharge on one of the leads - I take this to mean it's sparking to earth somewhere along it's length?
It sounds like you've got some generic leads from an accessory shop which aren't best quality - I'd replace the rotor arm as well as forking out on decent leads.
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the rotor arm has been replaced it was worn and the rac replaced it when i broke down
the leads are power train are they any good
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Keiran,
I have no idea if power train are any good but the easy way to check your leads is go somewhere very dark and lift the bonnet and have a close look at them with the engine running , if your leads are duff it will look like Blackpool illuminations.You should be able to spot sparking from the leads to the nearest earth.
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KS, there are so many things it could be ! Powertrain leads are ok. but check that the plug connector end of the lead matches the connection on the plugs. Sometimes the little screw cap on the plug end has to be discarded. Make sure that the lead is pressed fully home onto the plug - don't be mislead by a tight fitting rubber insulating sleeve.
Polo's of this era are likely to have a split or perished rubber insulator block / gasket as fitted between the carb and inlet manifold - it causes all sorts of idling problems. Easy enough to check, just lean on the air filter housing when the engine's running and see if the engine speed changes.
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need carp base mount(letting in air)very common
poss filler neck into petrol tank rusted awayand blocking pick up pipe in tank but this is more common in golfs but worth a look
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Cheers guys for all your help . The guy who owned it before me had the carb looked at because of stalling. He also had a new tank put in.
But ill still have a look at all your suggestions
thanks again
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Kieran,
Had similar trouble with a '88 Jetta ( 1.3 ) recently.
Check that your new leads have the correct connector to your ignition coil i.e either a bucket shaped recess in the coil or a pin inside the end of the coil onto which the cable end locates. The wrong cable will push into the coil but won't make a good connection and you will lose HT strength - so poor starting!
If the lead connector matches to the coil then suspect the coil - they do break down internally over the years and can cause intermittent faults such as bad starting. My problems were caused by the garage correctly diagnosing a faulty coil and then replacing it with the wrong one ( Bucket type connector instead of pin type ), forcing the existing HT lead onto the coil and breaking the surrounding insulation on the top of the coil! Great thing about this site is that you can learn from other peoples' experiences...............
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Does it stall after you have been driving a while, or just when you are sat at tickover?
Is it temperature related?
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Its definetly affected by temperature related when the car warms it runs fine, Idles well and suffers from no power loss. this happens at about 1/5 of its operating temperature from the gauge that is (not sure if its linear)
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