This van has basically given up on me - over the last couple of days it would sometimes not turn over when the key was turned. Eventually it refused to turn over at all. Attempts at jump starting failed completely, only a tow start got it going again. First thought was a dead battery, as the battery light would display curious behaviour - it came on with the ignition turned on, but would then immediately go out until the glow-plug circuit had switched off, and then it would come on again (very faintly until I recharged it). But changing the battery did not alter this. All I can hear is the solenoid clicking.
Before I remove the starter motor, is there anything else it could be?
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If you are sure that the battery and its replacement are ok, the problem seems like a high resistance joint(s) in the main battery leads. It may be a good idea to dismantle, clean, coat with vaseline, and reasssemble all joints on the main +12volt line and on the earth return line to the engine block/van body. Disconnect the battery first. Alternatively touch each joint after trying to start the van until you find the hot one! Good luck and let us know how you get on.
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Sounds like the alternator or the starter - simple checks first:
1. Is the belt tight? If not, tension it and re-tow. If the belt is slipping, the alternator will not turn, and the battery will not charge.
2. Battery terminal connections. Are they well greased (either with silicon or copper grease)? If not, regrease and re-tow. If the contact is not good, or intermittent, the battery will not take charge, and in turn will not deliver current.
3. Tow the vehicle to start it - take a 'multlmeter' and test the voltage a) across the battery. It should be between 11 and 14 volts. b) across the alternator. Should be under 15 volts. Anything over that, and you're boiling your battery to death, and could fry the wiring loom! (Have you had any wierd bulb failures recently??)
4. Check the connections on the alternator and starter - are they tight and greased? (if it's not a sealed unit).
5. Urm - If the solenoid on the starter is firing, the starter could be jammed (if not fried by now). Try WD40 or similar, and give it a good soaking. I had a Ford Escort which had a sticking starter - the solution, whilst not particularly elegant, was to give it a sharp clout with a hammer - avoid the 'weak' casing though - hit it squarely on the end, and see how you go!
Cheers
Rich
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Right. Two simple checks 1/. Measure the voltage between the positive terminal of the battery and the main terminal on the starter solenoid whilst trying to crank it over. Is the engine does not turn but the voltage stays up at 11 to 13 volts. Then goto 2/. Now measure between the negative of the battery and the case of the starter motor whilst cranking, or attempting. If this voltage is greater than 1 volt then the earth strap has gone or its fixings are corroded. If however the voltage from test 2 is fine then either the starter solenoid, the starter brushes or the link from the solenoid to the starter is US. Good Luck Regards Peter
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When I say main terminal I mean the stud not the end of the cable Tag as this could be the fault and you need to ensure the power is on the stud as this stud is one of the contacts in the Solenoid. Regards Peter
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Thanks guys, some ideas to go on there. I think I favour the dodgy wiring theory, due to the strange behaviour of the battery light on the dash, even with a fully charged battery.
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Correct. Go test it and come back. Peter
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ford alternators all make the batt light go on when diodes play up get new /recon alternator
fbillytom@ntlworld
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even when car is off thus draining batt and not charging correctly thats if its even charging
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