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Thanks very much for these helpful replies - all very interesting. I've had a quick look under the car and it's only the subframes showing surface corrosion and flaking a bit. I guess the metal must be think so probably would last plenty more years yet if I did nothing. Certainly no MOT comments so far. But if for a few hours works I can make it last longer then no bad thing. I will need to use the wire brush though - messy and horrid but seems necessary. I might jet wash it first, see how much loose stuff comes off that way.
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I can't see any info about Lanoguard containing any rust converters, but if it doesn't, you could use Bilt Hamber deox-gel to treat any rust that won't come off with wire brushing. The gel won't drip onto you when you're lying under the car.I suppose the earlier equivalent was Jenolite e.t.c
I use Hydrate 80 on brake pipes with surface rust then go over it with a clear wax so that MOT testers can see what's going on. Hydrate 80 is a liquid though. It converts the rust into a stable layer like deox gel.
It's a better thing to use for awkward areas that you can't get to easily with a brush.
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Used it this year on son's 2012 Yaris where paint has disappeared at rear.
Easy to apply.
Wait for next year for review
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Most of the positive reviews on Lanogard seem to be how easy it is to apply. Long term reviews are hard to find. They also recommend reapplying every year, which seems a bit of a drag. They have also not done any industry standard corrosion tests (salt spray), claiming they aren’t really applicable to a car environment.
Bilt Hamber and Dinitrol products have been tested and results published. Dinitrol products are used by OEM’s, and reapplication isn’t a requirement, although they do advise periodic inspection of high wear areas.
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I’ve just treated my Panda 100hp with Bilthamber Dynax S60 anti corrosion wax. Which is applied via aerosol. Supposed to be treatment and prevention.
You basically clean up the treated area and apply. Was recommended to me but I guess I’ll just have to wait and see. You only get one chance!
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Lanoguard is quick and easy to apply so no drag to apply annually.
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My 17yo Mazda3 (gen-1) is now starting to experience the 'rust on the wheel arches' issue, and was wondering what, if anything, I can do.
I did buy the spray-on 'Tetroseal' (clear version), but given some of the other comments on this thread, I am reluctant to use it or try to use a wire brush to get rid of (some of) the rust as it isn't just affecting the inside of the wheel wells - some (not too big an area) is now outside.
I had hoped that this stuff would just prevent it getting any worse without showing (clear), but I'm not so sure now. I wouldn't want to get into me doing any signifcant amount of work, not because I'm lazy but in case I just make things worse.
Any thoughts as to my course of action?
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If it's coming through from the inside, it will be difficult to stop without cutting out the affected area and welding in new pieces, grinding flush, prime, paint etc. A lot of work and expense, only worth it if you're hang onto the car indefinitely. The cheaper, more DIY approach is to grind the inside rust down to shiny metal, treat and protect. The outside, grind back, treat and fill with resin. Then sand back and prime, spray etc. Sounds hard but if you have the time and energy plus are reasonable DIY competent, you can do a decent job which will last long enough on a 17 year old car. A good mixed aerosol match will be available on line. Plenty of YouTube videos on how to do it.
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If it's coming through from the inside, it will be difficult to stop without cutting out the affected area and welding in new pieces, grinding flush, prime, paint etc. A lot of work and expense, only worth it if you're hang onto the car indefinitely. The cheaper, more DIY approach is to grind the inside rust down to shiny metal, treat and protect. The outside, grind back, treat and fill with resin. Then sand back and prime, spray etc. Sounds hard but if you have the time and energy plus are reasonable DIY competent, you can do a decent job which will last long enough on a 17 year old car. A good mixed aerosol match will be available on line. Plenty of YouTube videos on how to do it.
Given I live in a flat and can only attempt very minor work on my car (I also don't have any of those tools), that sounds not for me.
Is that spray I bought any use by literally spraying it onto the affect area to 'seal in' the rust, or is that making things worse and I should just get my money back on the otherwise unused product?
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If you're going to spray or paint anything inside, i'd get the worst of the damage repaired as best you can before applying anything, then spray an oil based product that doesn't dry out from inside so it can soak into the metal inside, this the ideal job for ACF50 or similar.
Wheelarches and sills where the two meet require some getting at, there's often several layers involved there, to get the product in where it can do its job might be from inside the sill bungs (could be inside or outside or in the wheelarch), or from inside the boot or from under the trim where it goes round the wheelarch beside the rear seat, or even a combination of all, not forgetting the external lip where wheelarch meets sill, a notorious heavy weather beaten rust spot on all sorts of vehicles.
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I think it depends on how you view the car, and therefore how much to spend on it. If you want to keep it for a lot longer, probably worth finding a decent body shop to carry out a decent repair but this will not be cheap. If you're going to change it in the foreseeable future I don't think I'd be worrying about it, just ignore it as it's probably not structural. The car's doing well at 17 years and will have plenty more life in it even with rust around the edges!
Edited by bazza on 29/05/2023 at 22:11
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I'd suggest hosing out the wheel arches, particularly the lip on the inside, get your fingers up there and rub out the dirt. This won't cure the rust, but will remove the 'poultice' of muck that retains moisture and slow down the corrosion.
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Yes, second that, if you can at least get the muck off to expose the rust, then treat with a rust converter like phosphoric acid, then even some bike chain lube or thick gear oil , anything oily or waxy to repel the muck and protect the metal.
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If it's coming through from the inside, it will be difficult to stop without cutting out the affected area and welding in new pieces, grinding flush, prime, paint etc. A lot of work and expense, only worth it if you're hang onto the car indefinitely. The cheaper, more DIY approach is to grind the inside rust down to shiny metal, treat and protect. The outside, grind back, treat and fill with resin. Then sand back and prime, spray etc. Sounds hard but if you have the time and energy plus are reasonable DIY competent, you can do a decent job which will last long enough on a 17 year old car. A good mixed aerosol match will be available on line. Plenty of YouTube videos on how to do it.
Given I live in a flat and can only attempt very minor work on my car (I also don't have any of those tools), that sounds not for me.
Is that spray I bought any use by literally spraying it onto the affect area to 'seal in' the rust, or is that making things worse and I should just get my money back on the otherwise unused product?
Don't much like the sound of "seal in rust"
I would take it back, and use sunflower oil with aluminium foil. Quite a lot of advantages, plus almost free. Color will be light brown to silvery grey, depending on how much rust you get off before treatment, and how often you treat it.
If you are in a hurry use linseed oil, boiled if in a bigger hurry, but I think the slow setting of the sunflower oil perhaps gives better penetration, and its more available.
You can perhaps overpaint once the oil has had a long time to set, but I've never tried that, not being much bothered by cosmetics. It would prevent retreatment so would be a BAD THING, but I suppose the average punter would insist..
You could perhaps get a cheapo Chinese 12V rechargable drill, and then you could use a crushed beer can as a grinding disk for heavier rust removal / metallising, or just use a hand wire brush before the oilfoil.
bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/coke-can-for-bra...5
Edited by edlithgow on 31/05/2023 at 23:32
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