... as it's burning oil, there's no need for mega-expensive stuff, just whatever meets the appropriate BMW, API and viscosity specs.

Even if it 'burns oil' when you accelerate, the oil may not disappear at a great rate. The important thing is to check it often so that you learn how often, and how much, to top up.

If the EGR system is working properly it should stop the cat getting too contaminated.

I'd suggest checking all the breathers, particularly the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve).

Yeh, I had a Renault 5 Campus fail its MOT for "visible smoke" and cleaning out the crankcase breather (not actually a PCV on that. AFAIK I've never had a PCV) may have fixed it.

But I also changed the oil, added Wynn's Viscosity Improver, and, possibly most importantly changed the MOT tester, so I can't be sure what, if anything, fixed it.

IF the oil is being burnt due to worn rings (or bore), thicker oil (either the thickest approved, or thicker than that if you arent too bothered about being disapproved of by BMW, which I probably wouldn't be) may help reduce consumption.

Of course the only way to cure worn rings (or bore) is a partial rebuild, which, as has been said, is a lot of work, and too expensive to get someone else to do.

IF, OTOH, the oil is being burnt due to stuck rings, you MAY be able to unstick them. One "home remedy" for this is to dribble some brake fluid down the plug holes and leave it overnight. Best done shortly before an oil change since the brake fluid may find its way into the oil.

I havn't actually done this, but I have used brake fluid to decoke horribly plugged EGR plumbing on a Honda Accord. Smoked a lot but cleared eventually.

Possibly leave it until the problem gets worse and its necessary to do something

The other classic cause would be worn valve guides. These two are classically distinguished by the effect of adding a little oil to the cylinders on compression readings. If the oil restores compression, bore/rings. If not valves. A leak-down test might also be informative but thats a more difficult DIY proposition..

I suppose worn turbo oil seals might be another possibility, but have no experience of turbos.

From the nephews I have that have owned several of these, they all have suffered from scored bores, so can only assume from mileage around 60k or less they are not run in properly and thrashed from new, but could be wrong? and possibly caused by poor engineering or metal used, but imo would say poor running in was more likely

some buy them thinking the engine is already run in but they are not, so I was told, and manual states as I think most do, engine, needs running in over time, though not many do?

Doesn't the Mini (especially of this age) have that horrible oil-drinking Peugeot engine in it?

The clever manufacturing of this engine is done in France and the bits and pieces hammered together in Warwickshire. A quick google of 'prince engine problems' throws up yards of entertaining threads quoting a variety of problems including the wrong type of oil scraper rings, failing valve seals...etc. As long as it passes the MoT I would just keep pouring cheap oil into it till it breaks. Try keeping an accurate record of how much per 1000 miles it uses.

Edited by John F on 09/03/2022 at 15:08