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At what point do you give up on a Banger? - OceanMan

I'm not asking for specific advice, just mulling things over generally. I only learned to drive 3 years ago at 26, and have practically 0 knowledge of cars. Since then I've owned two cars that I've spent almost £3k on for repairs, services, tyres etc.

My current car is a 10 year old fiesta that I like a lot, but it's just cost me another £700 to get through its last MOT. The main reason I decided to pay for the repairs rather than scrap it is because I'd already spent £800 on a new clutch, cam belt, and tyres in the last year and didn't want to "waste" that money.

I know every case is different, but is it ever worth spending £700 on a car that would struggle to sell for £1000? In the future should I scrap any Banger that presents with a bill over X amount?

At what point do you give up on a Banger? - RT

I'm not asking for specific advice, just mulling things over generally. I only learned to drive 3 years ago at 26, and have practically 0 knowledge of cars. Since then I've owned two cars that I've spent almost £3k on for repairs, services, tyres etc.

My current car is a 10 year old fiesta that I like a lot, but it's just cost me another £700 to get through its last MOT. The main reason I decided to pay for the repairs rather than scrap it is because I'd already spent £800 on a new clutch, cam belt, and tyres in the last year and didn't want to "waste" that money.

I know every case is different, but is it ever worth spending £700 on a car that would struggle to sell for £1000? In the future should I scrap any Banger that presents with a bill over X amount?

An aquaintance, much younger than me, spent as much each year as it was worth, for 3/4 years, getting an old Vauxhall Nova through the Mot because it's low insurance group was vital given that his insurance was loaded due to a drink-drive conviction

At what point do you give up on a Banger? - John F

My current car is a 10 year old fiesta that I like a lot, but it's just cost me another £700 to get through its last MOT. The main reason I decided to pay for the repairs rather than scrap it is because I'd already spent £800 on a new clutch, cam belt, and tyres in the last year and didn't want to "waste" that money.

Good gracious - what is the £700 for?

I only learned to drive 3 years ago at 26, and have practically 0 knowledge of cars.

This might lay you open to being 'taken for a ride' by an unscrupulous garage. We have a Focus in the family which is twice the age of your Fiesta with nearly 150,000 miles and it has never cost more than £100 (welding in 2017 and 2020) to get it past the MoT. Whatever the age of the car, a year's worth of motoring is probably 'worth' at least £1000.

At what point do you give up on a Banger? - brum

Welcome to the black hole that owning and running a car financially is.

Tyres you cannot avoid on any car old or new. If you buy a simple tyre gauge, you can check the tyre tread depth yourself and not rely on someone who might want to sell you tyres whether its needed or not.

Servicing is not something you should avoid on any car old or new. You can however shop around and check you are getting value for money, a good trustworthy service and not being subjected to unnecessary upselling, such as changing stuff that doesn't necessarily need doing at that point in time, brakes being a common upsell.

Repairs need to be done if they affect the road worthiness of the car. Again shop around and check the trust worthiness of the repairer. Places like google, trustpilot etc.

Once everything is sorted, maybe ask or pay a trusted mechanic for an examination and opinion on the state of your car and likely upcoming costs.You may then decide its time to change.

On the other hand, start to take an interest in car mechanics, learn. Many resources, youtube etc. Learn to do basic things yourself, changing bulbs, wipers checking tyre pressues, tread depths, fluids and how to look out for problems before they become too serious.Also, regular cleaning in places often ignored, under the car, around suspensions, brakes pays dividends and can lead to longer life. You will also see if there is a potential future repair coming your way.

Edited by brum on 11/03/2021 at 14:16

At what point do you give up on a Banger? - Alex Rankin

I'm in a similar position. I have only owned two cars although I've been driving for several years. My current vehicle is worth about a grand give or take and has had a lot of work. I've learnt that you very much get what you pay for. If you've spent under 5k on it then in all likelihood you're going to need to spend a fair bit to keep it going.

The other point to bear in mind (which I learned the hard way) is paying attention to the service history before you buy to see what you might end up having to replace and also what common problems you get on that model at a certain mileage.

In a nutshell, I don't think it's worth buying a banger and then worrying about what you might get for it. If you like it, keep it going til it dies then invest in something with a greater lifespan next time.

At what point do you give up on a Banger? - sammy1

With old used cars it is better the devil you know. Having shelled out a lot on your car you can reasonably expect to get through to the next MOT without much further expense. Unless you have a lot of cash to buy something newer and in warranty there are no guarantees of massive bills. then you have to consider a newer car is going to loose a lot of money in depreciation. The thing that might kill a very old car is rust. It is your cash budget and only you can decide. If you can do basic maintenance you can save a bit of cash, otherwise try to find a small independent garage

At what point do you give up on a Banger? - blindspot

what makes me give up,is when i''m spending every weekend fixing it .

At what point do you give up on a Banger? - brum

what makes me give up,is when i''m spending every weekend fixing it .

Then you're fixing it wrong.

At what point do you give up on a Banger? - Steveieb
I got caught with this conundrum with my Audi A2 but eventually I sold it as apart from the unreliability it was uncomfortable and had an uncouth 3cylinder engine.
But the great consolation about a banger is that you have the option of writing it off at any time and this is something more difficult with one costin £5k
But accepting that somethings don't work is another factor. My A4 has a failed Air con,a boot lock that only works from a key, a disconnected alarm and a headlining held in place by furniture staples.
But I would happily drive down to Italy in it and know it would make it without a hitch !
At what point do you give up on a Banger? - SLO76
You could’ve spent £5,000 on a newer car and found it cost exactly the same to get through an Mot. Unless you’re buying a new car you’ll have regular repairs to fork out for. A good car that you know well is worth spending £700 on if it means you’ll potentially get another year or more out of it even if it’s not even worth £700 to sell on. It would cost you much more to buy a substantially newer car and then you’d suffer more than £700 in additional depreciation in the first year alone.
At what point do you give up on a Banger? - freddieflintoff

I'm very much of the "better the devil you know" mindset and have spent more on repairs and maintenance on my Golf than the purchase price. Had it for 10 years. The death blow for me (which was a hard decision) was:

Estimated bill of £500 for brake fix (£300 part!)

Turbo in need of replacement @£600

Radiator @£100

Air con not worked for years

Various other bits (wing rust, rear hatch, window reg, heated windscreen etc...) all failing.

Even with some DIY repairs it was going to be getting on for £2k and the garage (trusted as been going for years) were lined up to do the work but I was talked out of it as they didn't think it was a good spend on a 20 year old car and something else could go pop. The Mrs agreed! as much as I'd have loved to keep it, I knew it was time to let go. If everything else was in good nick I'd have done the turbo or brakes but BOTH together on the same bill. Putting the cash towards the next one instead but a hard decision. It's still on the drive so not quite met its maker yet though...

At what point do you give up on a Banger? - Xileno

It's not an exact science so impossible to give a definitive answer. It's worth spending a large percentage of the car's value if you know the rest is good and will last another year or two. In my experience rust is the big problem - once you start welding a car for MoT (unless it's localised and trivial), then you end up doing it more or less each year.

My elderly 2007 Focus is perfect underneath but once it starts needing welding then it will most probably go - unless the desire to have something new occurs first!

At what point do you give up on a Banger? - jc2
I got rid of our second car;it would need some welding after 13 years,then an MoT,year's tax and insurance and,in the near future a set of tyres-say £750 for the lot.Not worth it-sold it as a going concern with rwo day's mot remaining.On checking,I see it stayed on the road for another year!
At what point do you give up on a Banger? - John F

once you start welding a car for MoT (unless it's localised and trivial), then you end up doing it more or less each year.

My elderly 2007 Focus is perfect underneath but once it starts needing welding then it will most probably go - unless the desire to have something new occurs first!

That's just middle-aged! But check carefully the rear of the sill where it joins the wheel arch. Our elderly (nearly 21) Focus also looked perfect, but some rot had spread invisibly under the plasticised protection which required a mere £100 weld job when it was 17yrs old. The other side needed doing (another £100) when it was 19.

Can't understand the post saying no Fords or Vauxhalls - Focuses and Astras are usually cheap to repair if they go wrong. The biggest non-consumable bills for ours was a fuel pump and a coil pack - less than some pay for a 'service'. And some of those far eastern cars are prone to rusting just as badly as European cars when they get old.

Edited by John F on 11/03/2021 at 21:30

At what point do you give up on a Banger? - Xileno

Sorry, I missed your reply. Thanks for the heads-up about the sills, I will make a note to check when I'm next underneath - usually each summer for a quick check on things and applying some more waxoyl if needed.

I agree with your other comments, especially as Ford and Vauxhall parts tend to be good value as well.

At what point do you give up on a Banger? - Andrew-T

I know every case is different, but is it ever worth spending £700 on a car that would struggle to sell for £1000? In the future should I scrap any Banger that presents with a bill over X amount?

If you see yourself as a bangernomist, the logical rule is to keep your current car going until you decide that fixing it will cost more than scrapping it and getting another. DON'T just say 'fixing it is more than it's worth'. The car you know has many advantages over another, unfamiliar one.

At what point do you give up on a Banger? - Rerepo

It pays to buy the 'right' banger. Nothing French or italian. Not Ford or Vauxhall.

Buy Toyota, Honda or Suzuki. They are built for the long haul.

Petrol without turbo.

1-2 owners and decent service history.

At what point do you give up on a Banger? - Andrew-T

It pays to buy the 'right' banger. Nothing French or italian. Not Ford or Vauxhall.

Buy Toyota, Honda or Suzuki. They are built for the long haul.

If we're talking real bangers, reliability stats become very approximate after 10 years. It all depends how those 10 years have passed. History and condition are more important.

If you automatically exclude French without further thought, you can easily ignore some good cars.

At what point do you give up on a Banger? - Rerepo

It pays to buy the 'right' banger. Nothing French or italian. Not Ford or Vauxhall.

Buy Toyota, Honda or Suzuki. They are built for the long haul.

If we're talking real bangers, reliability stats become very approximate after 10 years. It all depends how those 10 years have passed. History and condition are more important.

If you automatically exclude French without further thought, you can easily ignore some good cars.

Sorry I disagree. Buying a car that was properly designed and built in the first place is most important.

I have a relative who bought a new Renault some years back. That car was treated like a new born baby. Dealer serviced on the dot, carefully driven etc. He had so many problems - once out of warranty cost a fortune in repairs. Electrics, turbo, gearbox. Ditto my sister had a Fiat from new - so many problems. In fact I was driving it when the electric power steering packed up at four years old. Cost about £800 to fix that. Regular servicing and sympathetic ownership is of course also important - hence my comment about a low number of owners and service history. I spent a lot of my working life in troublespots around the world - see what they drive in those places - when the going gets tough you won't see Renaults an Fiats - think Toyota, Mitsubishi, Honda etc

At what point do you give up on a Banger? - Terry W

You can run a car on a shoestring - but it helps if you (a) are able to properly assess condition before purchase, and (b) are able to do basic maintenance yourself. Even the most knowledgable get it wrong occasionally and end up with lemons.

If it is possible I would buy (outright or PCP) a new or nearly new basic city car. Plan to keep it for 5+ years and cost will be around £1000-1500 pa. This is a little more than repairs each year for MoT but (a) it should be far more reliable, and (b) non- MoT failures will be rare.

Reliability is likely to be far better than £1000 - 2000 banger. Costs for other repairs - many items degrade or fail with wear - eg: battery, brake discs, clutch, wiper motors, aircon etc etc.

At what point do you give up on a Banger? - Bolt

Even the most knowledgable get it wrong occasionally and end up with lemons.

Yes I have to admit to buying a Lemon last year as I bought a Civic 1.8 2013, which had an oil burning problem (about a litre per 100 miles) I didn`t check the inside of the cam cover, the inside was thick mud like oil and first time I hadn`t checked this on a car

I should have also checked the tyres as they had been changed between looking at the car and when I went back to buy it, but being in a hurry to get a car I missed the bits that matter

anyway its gone now and replaced with 2008 1.4 Civic which surprised me as it had FSH but not looked after inside but cleaned up ok, and first MOT I gave it failed on n/s/r brake light first ever mot failure on it in 9 years runs like a new car so will keep it a few years, a bit underpowered but its better than I expected for economy and not a lot of difference to the 1.8 imo

It is really difficult to find a decent second hand car now, as plenty want to get rid of problem cars so be weary on all cars looked at

At what point do you give up on a Banger? - Andrew-T

<< Sorry I disagree. Buying a car that was properly designed and built in the first place is most important. I have a relative who bought a new Renault some years back. That car was treated like a new born baby. Dealer serviced on the dot, carefully driven etc. He had so many problems - once out of warranty cost a fortune in repairs. Electrics, turbo, gearbox. Ditto my sister had a Fiat from new - >>

I don't dispute your account, but it doesn't prove French and Italian cars are rubbish, only that you have been unlucky. Every manufacturer makes 'Friday cars', some more than others. But not many 21st-century cars are 'bad' cars.

My experience could be said to disprove your prejudice (sorry, facts). I have owned my present Pug 207 since Christmas 2008. With regular simple servicing, it has needed only two sets of tyres and one of discs and pads. Just recently its original battery started to fail, and a door lock misbehaved. Nothing else. None of my (many) other Peugeots have been naughty either.

You shouldn't make categorical statistical statements based on a sample of two cars. And of course sometimes second-hand cars are being sold on for a reason ....

At what point do you give up on a Banger? - John F

My experience could be said to disprove your prejudice (sorry, facts). I have owned my present Pug 207 since Christmas 2008. With regular simple servicing, it has needed only two sets of tyres and one of discs and pads. .... None of my (many) other Peugeots have been naughty either.

To dismiss 'French cars' is absurd. Even though the whole shebang is owned by Stellantis, Peugeot have always prided themselves as being a cut above their national competitors. When I was in Africa their 504 was a reliable favourite for the challenging roads. They have also done well at Le Mans, a race where the quality and reliability of the car is far more important than the skill of the driver. I see no reason why our Pug 2008 should not at least equal your 207 experience.

At what point do you give up on a Banger? - Terry W

Reliability is more complex than the quality of the design, engineering and manufacture.

There are numerous car reliability surveys - Warranty Direct, JD Power, What Car, Auto Express etc. Some of these may be a rehash of data from the other surveys, but the results are inconsistent.

The survey may be skewed between private and company purchases. Private buyers may typically take far greater care of their asset than company car drivers who know that after a few years they simply give it back and get a new one.

Many used cars find their way on to the s/h market via car rental companies whose vehicles may be abused. Car rental companies want low priced vehicles which perform for 6-12 months before they end up at Motorpoint or similar.

There are also some clear anomalies - eg: Audi, VW, Seat, Skoda all come from the same family, use a lot of common components, but achieve very different outcomes in terms of reliability. Hyundai and Kia often achive very different scores.

At what point do you give up on a Banger? - Steveieb

Couldn’t be a better time to run a banger as now IMHO.

My work colleague bought a new Golf R just before the pandemic struck and has covered about 300 miles. Others have said the same that the car has sat on the drive for months.

Depreciation doesn’t stop for COVID so just to have a car to take you to the supermarket fulfils most people’s requirements.

At what point do you give up on a Banger? - madf

My logic on giving up on a banger is simple.

Make a list of all known faults or issues.

Many will be once off fixes at a cost but a few will not be: eg rust tends to be endemic, engine issues (Oil burning - as above) may need a rebuild which will likely find a host of very expensive issues.

So if new brakes and a new exhaust (stolen Cat) will get the car running with a defined cost, it's probably worth while keeping.

But if the engine overheats or burns oil, and the tyres are worn and there are a long list of issues as MOT advisories , or the underneath is a mess of rust with welding required - then the costs of repair may be unknown and could run into £1000s..

Some cars resist abuse better than others. Some dislike infrequent oil changes (see Rover Head gaskets as an example). Just don't buy them.

Specifically: GM and LR have poor engineering built in: buying bangers from them is a recipe for disaster. (Renault in the 1990s were terrible when new! Now improved.)

Edited by madf on 12/03/2021 at 12:21

At what point do you give up on a Banger? - brum

It always amuses me when in a discussion about reliability, there are always posts along the lines of

"My [country of origin/make/model,/vintage] has been utterly reliable. Apart from a new gearbox, aircon not working, and the occasional suspension issue, nothing has gone wrong, only the usual rust around the [insert description] which I have had welded up"

All cars are fixable, costs may vary. In the last few years many car and particularly "premium" models have been fitted with increasing complex mechanicals and technology which are both difficult to diagnose and eye wateringly expensive to repair or replace.

It helps enormously if you are savvy mechanically. I was brought up in era of terrible rust and reliability 1960-1980. To keep a new car going more than 3-4 yeats required all sorts of skills from bodywork to being able to strip cylinder heads. Many of my age acquired "mechanic" skills and there came a point where I felt I could assess a good motor when I saw one.

But now I am not sure.

Nowadays, expensive failures come out of the blue. Be it an electric window winder, DSG gearbox, or an engine that turns out to have a fundamental design weakness that trashes it while driving on the motorway.

Anyway, enough of my ramblings. To answer the OP's question on when to give up on a banger, I recall a reply to this oft discussed topic on this forum which struck a chord with me.

When you wouldn't want to go for a drive in it more than a few miles from home.

Edited by brum on 12/03/2021 at 12:58

At what point do you give up on a Banger? - Xileno

I really like these threads and the varied views and experiences from people. As well as many of the good points raised, I think it's beneficial to delve deeper into specific models as there can be some hidden gems. For example, the old Rover 200/400 would not be on my list because of the reputation of the K series engine (HGF) but if you chose the correct model, there was a Honda engine, as in the Japanese re-imported 400 someone posted about recently.

At what point do you give up on a Banger? - jc2

I really like these threads and the varied views and experiences from people. As well as many of the good points raised, I think it's beneficial to delve deeper into specific models as there can be some hidden gems. For example, the old Rover 200/400 would not be on my list because of the reputation of the K series engine (HGF) but if you chose the correct model, there was a Honda engine, as in the Japanese re-imported 400 someone posted about recently.

Ford spent a lot of money to improve the headgasket on the K series engine during the short period they owned LR-unfortunately they then sold the company.

At what point do you give up on a Banger? - Metropolis.
I think SAIC money might have solved the HG issue, if we can believe Wikipedia

“ UK engineering firm Ricardo plc were tasked with remedying the well known faults of the K series by SAIC Motor for its introduction into the Chinese marketplace. With a redesigned head, improved waterways, stiffened block as well as changing the manufacturing process and quality of material, the Kavachi is seen as the pinnacle of K-series development. As of 2015, with more than half a decade in the market, there have been no reported issues of head gasket failure on cars using the Kavachi engine.”

I actually thought they did a good job (cosmetically) on the chinese version of the Rover 75
en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roewe_750
At what point do you give up on a Banger? - Lrac

When the body starts rusting I will get rid of it. I buy cars that are lacking in extras with the sole intention of keeping the car and maintaining it for as long as possible. Some makes are full of modules that need main dealer computers to interrogate them jacking up the cost of ownership.

I would recommend buying a common basic car that is not direct injection and changing the oil frequently to stack the odds in your favour

At what point do you give up on a Banger? - Alby Back
Quite often, it would actually make more sense, and be vastly cheaper to fix and keep rather than scrap and replace.

But, a combination of fearing throwing good money after bad, and the understandable allure of a newer, hopefully better car, is a strong motivator.

Edited by Alby Back on 12/03/2021 at 15:04

At what point do you give up on a Banger? - Xileno

I agree, infact with the exception of one car, every other change has been because I just fancied a change. Sometimes the next owner of my cars has got a good 'un!

At what point do you give up on a Banger? - Rerepo

Reliability is more complex than the quality of the design, engineering and manufacture.

Yes, true. But get design, engineering and manufacture right and you are 80% of the way there. A relative of mine used to work for JLR. He reckoned their cars were poor. He subsequently went to work for Toyota - he told me that Toyota warranty claims were FORTY TIMES lower than JLR. When another relative's Fiat electric power steering failed I contacted a EPAS repairer and as soon as I said 'Fiat' he accurately described the fault, 'they nearly all fail - bad design' - and he had replacements on the shelf.

You guys take your chances with French and Italian. I put my faith in Japanese.

At what point do you give up on a Banger? - Andrew-T

<< You guys take your chances with French and Italian. I put my faith in Japanese. >>

More than happy to. As I said above, nearly 40 years experience of Pugs has given me no reason to take your view. After abandoning BL cars in the early 80s, SWMBO and I have also driven a Cavalier, a Nissan Prairie, a Fiat Punto and a Renault Clio. None of those gave us much trouble either.

As I also said, you were just unlucky. Or could there be another reason ? :-)

Do you really think all those people driving French cars are on tenterhooks, just waiting for them to break down?

Edited by Andrew-T on 13/03/2021 at 17:40

At what point do you give up on a Banger? - edlithgow

I know every case is different, but is it ever worth spending £700 on a car that would struggle to sell for £1000? In the future should I scrap any Banger that presents with a bill over X amount?

Yes

and I was going to say "and no", but X could theoretically = infinity, so I suppose that must be Yes again.

I dunno what the "X-factor" is though.

Your initial 800 for tyres clutch and such was a "sunk cost". You aren't getting that back, so another 700 to protect it seems an entirely reasonable investment to me, assuming it was necessary, which is kind of a separate issue.

Many people take the current value of the car as the cutoff point, but that's an arbitrary amount, and has no real or necessary relationship with the cost of maintenance. You don't factor in the resale value when deciding whether to buy an ice cream, or a holiday in France, or an ice cream while on holiday in France.

If you dump the devil you know, you will probably replace it with the devil you don't know, a high risk operation, riskier still if you know next to nothing about cars.

OTOH, there has never been a better time to be clueless when running a car, for a mixture of paradoxically contradictory reasons

A lot of free advice (Were you overcharged, for example?) and info (Was the diagnosis reasonable given the symptoms?) is available on't nyet.

For the same reason, there has never been a better time to educate yourself and acquire "traditional" DIY mechanical skills and knowledge.

OTOH, there has never been a better time not to bother.

If you don't fancy it, you can tell yourself that "traditional" DIY mechanical skills are a diminishing asset because newish cars are an unfixable nightmare and the internal combustion engine is a dead duck technology anyway.

Its The End Of The World As We Know It.

Don't sweat it.

At what point do you give up on a Banger? - MTD

i had my astra 17 years, bought from new and quite low mileage at 58k when i got rid. It had been an extremely reliable car to drive and actually all it had 'fail' was one lightbulb, eveything else was wear and tear like brakes and waterpump oilpum cambelt change at appropiate age.

i sold it to a mates mate for £10 when WBAC value it at £100, as he would do the work to keep it running was was slightly overdue:

New brakes, New cambelt, new water and oil pump, plus full service.

All the above would have cost me about a grand to do, and due to circumstance change and now having lots of kids, there was no need to run a second car in London where we live. Even without the circumstances change, i think when a car needs A,B and C doing which total a multiple of its worth, its time to get rid.

At what point do you give up on a Banger? - Andrew-T

.... when a car needs A,B and C doing which total a multiple of its worth, its time to get rid.

That's the point - 'what it's worth'. A true banger which needs significant work doing is probably worth scrap, no more than a hundred or two if you're lucky. Significant work will beat that, but the knee-jerk 'get-rid' should be balanced against the alternative of finding a replacement car. If you don't really need that, question answered.

At what point do you give up on a Banger? - Big John

I think it depends on the type of repairs.

If repairs are to do with the body and structure - then it's probably not worth it. Usually it's a slippery slope downwards as probably other parts of the car will need repairing in the near future. Also welded patches if not thoroughly rust protected inside and out will encourage future rapid rusting. ( I know as I've restored cars in the past - some where I've cut out previous layered MOT repairs)

If repairs are mechanical such as brakes, suspension parts etc then it's likely these replaced parts will have a long serviceable life ahead of them!

It has to be remembered as you change to newer cars the complexity increases. A new car with a modern touch screen to control everything seems an attractive option to some but this could become a liability when this same car is a decade or so old! The other consideration here is the increasing complexity of emission controls depending on the Euro rating of the day - a modern diesel with advanced EGR, DPF, SCR could easily be written off with a potential multi £1k repair bill. A £6k chemical factory(to replace all bits) attached to the hottest part of the car - what could possibly go wrong!

If you have an older car that is generally in great condition then a bigger mechanical repair quote that is potentially more than the car is worth could still be worth doing. Sometimes it's better the devil you know........

Brakes, tyres etc should always be classed as consumables - these wear out on cars new and old.

The joys of motoring.

At what point do you give up on a Banger? - daveyK_UK
I recently witnessed the entire front suspension of a Vauxhall Vectra 03 plate fall out after going over a speed hump at a relatively sensible speed.
When I pulled over to assist, the front frame had suffered from bad corrosion, the suspension parts where well worn out showing heavy rusting.
Concerning, the bloke said it passed its MOT only in December.
Makes you wonder who inspects such a car?

At what point do you give up on a Banger? - John F

At what point do you give up on a Banger?

When you stop liking and enjoying it. Technically there is now no such thing as a 'banger' as the MoT ensures that a car's important bits all have to be in perfect working order. If I stopped liking my forty year old TR7 or my fifteen year old Audi A8 I would sell them tomorrow. As both of them no longer depreciate significantly even a repair bill around what many people pay for a PCP year's mundanity ownership would not hurt too much.

At what point do you give up on a Banger? - Andrew-T
I recently witnessed the entire front suspension of a Vauxhall Vectra 03 plate fall out after going over a speed hump at a relatively sensible speed. When I pulled over to assist, the front frame had suffered from bad corrosion, the suspension parts where well worn out showing heavy rusting. Concerning, the bloke said it passed its MOT only in December. Makes you wonder who inspects such a car?

I don't know whether there are still dodgy back-street places offering MoT passes on rattletraps - maybe SLO has some idea. But I would have thought that the shaking that front suspension gets on the test hoist would have done for the car you describe.

At what point do you give up on a Banger? - daveyK_UK
Andrew T

I was gobsmacked it could have passed an MOT

There is no way it could have been missed, the car was on its last legs and prolonged structural rust could not occur between December and the end of Feb unless the front end was sat in a bath of brake fluid.

There a plenty of dodgy garages still about, the private hire taxi trade will lead you to it (from my experience).

One of the ways the DVLA tried to clamp down on such practises was by putting a 40 min distance between issuing MOT certificates for a garage.
The result was to send the apprentice in early/stay late processing the MOTs.

I heard one story of a car that had its MOT cert handed to the owner when he turned up! He only had to wait for the service to get done.
in all fairness they made him pay for an exhaust leak fix as it was noticeable.
A strange morality.

At what point do you give up on a Banger? - freddieflintoff

What do you mean?

A One of the ways the DVLA tried to clamp down on such practises was by putting a 40 min distance between issuing MOT certificates for a garage.

At what point do you give up on a Banger? - Andrew-T

What do you mean? One of the ways the DVLA tried to clamp down on such practices was by putting a 40 min distance between issuing MOT certificates for a garage.

Seems clear to me. Car comes in for test; enter vehicle details in the system. Carry out test, which is usually allowed about 45 minutes. Enter results in system.

That at least ensures that the car was at the test station for the required time - nothing else. Of course if it is a regular visitor the details may be already there .... I wonder if there is a time-out period as well as a time-in ? Say 8 hours ?

At what point do you give up on a Banger? - daveyK_UK
Correct.

The issue previously was the MOT cert could be created in a batch , the new system delays creating certs to 1 per every 40 mins.

It doesn’t stop MOT cert abuse but it makes it more time consuming
At what point do you give up on a Banger? - Will deBeast

From when I ran bangers, if you have the storage space, the best thing you can do is buy another one of the same make/model - as rust free as possible. It becomes a great source of spares. I even swapped the engine over on mine.

At what point do you give up on a Banger? - Steveieb
Was speaking to an ex car dealer this morning who bought a Jaguar XJ as a trade in at work and it cost less than the annual Rosd tax. So dealing in a famous Japanese marque costing over £20 k yet when it came to spending his own money bought a luxury car for the price of a TV set !
At what point do you give up on a Banger? - daveyK_UK
I spent the past 30 mins on auto trader, lots of junk under £2000 with the occasional gem mixed in

If you do your research you may find a bargain