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No reason to get rid of a car because some friction materials need replacing, that model Yaris of yours is proving to be one of the best small cars ever made.
It's entirely possible the garage did have the drums off and there's something else going on here, but any mechanic worth his name should be able to diagnose this noise in very short order.
Does this noise only arise during braking, could it be one of the rear wheel bearings failing...these are sealed into the rear hub unit and were a scandalous price from the dealer, but aftermarket now has them quite cheap.
Last time i fetched the rear drums off a Toyota it was an Aygo and the work of seconds, one allen key needed to undo the securing screw and the drum was off, i assume the Yaris is a similar design, at worse it would be a case of undoing the wheel hub nut if the drum is part of the hub assembly, 10 mins would fetch a drum of this design off, but this assumes the car has been maintained correctly where drum removal would happen at least every other year.
Edited by gordonbennet on 03/12/2018 at 10:34
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Yes the car overall is great, I've had it for 4 years, very few issues and the economy is brilliant.
The noise happens only during braking and slowing down coming to a stop. The braking performance itself seems ok.
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Those drums need to come off sharpish if they haven't already for inspection if the grinding is really bad its possible a shoe has broken up, this can lead to a hub seizing, as it can via the parking brake shoes on some Volvos.
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Thanks Gordon, one last question, is KwikFits's free brake check any good? Judging by their website it's quite thorough.
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KwikFits's free brake check any good? Judging by their website it's quite thorough.
Well its free so can't do any harm in theory, but if the brakes prove to be a problem to strip as Madf speaks with authority about, its possible some damage could result as they remove said drums, or the shoe hold down pins/springs fall apart as the drum is removed, so you could end up having to get it repaired there once the problems are established.
Easy enough to look up parts prices via the usual sites, again as Madf i'd suggest pricing up shoes for certain, but also price possible slave cylinders, adjusters, fitting kit and new brake drums for both sides so you have an idea what the worse case scenario parts wise might be before venturing in, it might only need new shoes but best be aware of what could be revealed, if shoes are down to metal it won't have done the drums any favours.
Haven't you got a mechanically minded mate who could give you a hand removing the wheels and drums so you can have a look for yourself, this would be free and impartial examination bar a bottle or two of his favourite, it might only need a clean and proper lube up so no cost at all, could be some grit/rust has got in which is causing the noise.
Edited by gordonbennet on 03/12/2018 at 13:34
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Thanks Gordon, one last question, is KwikFits's free brake check any good? Judging by their website it's quite thorough.
As Madf has said, they won't have had a proper look at both rear brake shoes for £40, unless it was Happy Hour or something. The drums are likely to have lipped, making it necessary to slacken everything off to examine the shoes, then all back together again. I reckon they will not have dismantled anything, just checked all parts are free and giving adequate braking, including the handbrake of course.
Keep the car if it is reliable and you like it. Any car being regularly used suffers wear and tear, which includes brake shoes as well as pads and discs. Now and then some money has to be spent, so better to spend it on a car you trust than on getting another which you may not.
Edited by Andrew-T on 03/12/2018 at 14:58
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Thanks Andrew, that's exactly my thinking.
Re. the issue, I noticed something different now after driving a couple of miles. The grinding when braking has gone much quieter but what's more prominent which I noticed was a noise from wheel(s) when driving, cyclical as if brushing against something. Could it be something else than brakes, then?
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You haven't said how many miles your Yaris has done, but if you think the rear shoes may be as old as the car, they are probably worn out by now. If the noise has changed it is possible, as GB has said, that a shoe may be breaking up - plus the risk of rivets scoring the drum. Get it looked at by a 'proper' garage, it should feel better with new shoes. Don't we all ?
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It's done over 140k. I've no idea if the rear shoes are the original ones but most likely they are.
Thanks again for all the advice. I'll report back here once I've got it sorted.
P.
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jack up a wheel . give it a spin then try with hand brake slightly on. bite the bullet and change the lot. diy £70 should cover it
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10 mins would fetch a drum of this design off, but this assumes the car has been maintained correctly where drum removal would happen at least every other year.
Like in the movies?
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10 mins would fetch a drum of this design off, but this assumes the car has been maintained correctly where drum removal would happen at least every other year.
Like in the movies?
Like on the family fleet i look after :-) the drum securing screws are nipped up only (and coppaslipped so don't rust in), the drums slide off with barely any force needed, quick sweep out and clean up, sparingly lube the pivot points and parking brake levers, check the slave pistons are free to move, roughen the friction material with a wire brush or glass paper and key the drum friction area, reassemble with small wipe of coppaslip round the spigot, adjust parking brake (if drum inside disc as all my cars are), job done drink tea.
Edited by gordonbennet on 04/12/2018 at 18:05
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10 mins would fetch a drum of this design off, but this assumes the car has been maintained correctly where drum removal would happen at least every other year.
Like in the movies?
Like on the family fleet i look after :-) the drum securing screws are nipped up only (and coppaslipped so don't rust in), the drums slide off with barely any force needed, quick sweep out and clean up, sparingly lube the pivot points and parking brake levers, check the slave pistons are free to move, roughen the friction material with a wire brush or glass paper and key the drum friction area, reassemble with small wipe of coppaslip round the spigot, adjust parking brake (if drum inside disc as all my cars are), job done drink tea.
I wouldn't use glass paper/sandpaper- to roughen the shoe surface as it can cause problems, its best to use emery cloth as it wont stick to the shoe surface, its also been know to cause shoe grab as the glass heats up and softens, and can cause similar problems to excessive dust in the drum ie makes lined dips in the shoe lining
I was taught this at college in case you wondered were this came from but is true and does happen sometimes, I know as problems have occurred due this!
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Fir comment Bolt, its usually wet'n'dry i use (not glass paper, it was just an expression), so the paper backed equivalent of emery cloth, but regardless i always give the linings and drum a good rinse off with brake cleaner when finished roughening up.
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I do most of that except the shoe roughening (scared of brake dust, though I suppose done wet it'd be ok), the coppaslip (unobtainium here, I use home-made aluminium-based stuff) and the brake cleaner (never seen the point of it, though I have some).
To get rid of dust I wash the brakes down with copious (optionally hot) water and washing up liquid, catching the dirty water in a bowl and tipping it directly down a street drain.
I find the drums rust inside and out. Outside I grind them with a disk made from a flattened beer can, using sunflower oil as a binder. This makes an effective paint which after a couple of treatments is holding up well.
Inside I'm not comfortable using oil so I grind with aluminium "dry". That needs re-done after each monsoon season
I'd think there are rather few brake drums that see any maintenance at all unless they break. Hence the "only in the movies" crack.
It'd probably have to be a movie featuring space shuttle maintenance, at that.
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I do most of that except the shoe roughening (scared of brake dust, though I suppose done wet it'd be ok), the coppaslip (unobtainium here, I use home-made aluminium-based stuff) and the brake cleaner (never seen the point of it, though I have some).
To get rid of dust I wash the brakes down with copious (optionally hot) water and washing up liquid, catching the dirty water in a bowl and tipping it directly down a street drain.
I find the drums rust inside and out. Outside I grind them with a disk made from a flattened beer can, using sunflower oil as a binder. This makes an effective paint which after a couple of treatments is holding up well.
Inside I'm not comfortable using oil so I grind with aluminium "dry". That needs re-done after each monsoon season
I'd think there are rather few brake drums that see any maintenance at all unless they break. Hence the "only in the movies" crack.
It'd probably have to be a movie featuring space shuttle maintenance, at that.
I'd think there are rather few brake drums that see any maintenance at all unless they break. Hence the "only in the movies" crack.
When I worked for a certain main dealer years ago, after around 12 months of working for them, I was called into the managers office and given a telling off due to the fact I removed brake drums as part of the service, something I have always done
I was told in no uncertain terms that if I carried on doing it I would be sacked as they termed it as time wasting, in their words -that's what the inspection hole is for in the backplate so there is no need to remove the drums- its something I have always done and if I was still working on motors would still do...I left this garage the same week, I really couldn't believe the aggravation they caused over keeping rear brakes up to scratch
But it was part of the bonus scheme then so I should have realised.!
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