Try Halfords own 5W40 fully synthetic (silver bottles), available in 1, 2 & 5 litres
Don’t worry about using a lower ‘W’ number, as this is the cold viscosity. However as it’s recommended for a 50 (hot viscosity) I’d not go lower than 40, so be careful to avoid all the 5W30s out there.
Lower "W" numbers are excellent for reducing wear at start-up time, just when the most wear occurs.
I agree to be very careful over the hot viscosity but bear in mind that mineral oils lose a lot of viscosity very quickly in use while modern fully-synthetics "stay-in-grade" much longer, they have to to get their ACEA ratings - difficult to quantify but a 15-50 mineral oil can be down to 10-30 long before it's changed.
Edited by RT on 22/11/2016 at 13:04
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Cyd, RT thanks for the additional info. Rgds, T.
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With the Black Friday 67% off, Triple QX 5W40 is down to less than a tenner for 5 litres. Use code BLACKFRIDAY
www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Saab_9-3_2.0_2007/p/car...8
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I'm trying to get that price Cyd, but after applying the code it gets reduced to £18.89 ish (clicked off it now but that was roughly the price)
The 5 litre QX pack in the Gold colour comes down to £16.87 with the code, which as about what they used to sell it for normally 3 or 4 years ago and i have seen it at £12 before.
Can't get any 5 litre pack down a tenner, it's probably me.
Down to about 3 x 5 litre packs of me usual Morris full sythetic now so on the lookout for fresh stock, a single change on the Toyota takes 7.5 litres plus 2 daughters frequently raid my stash...or rather i end up providing.
Edited by gordonbennet on 24/11/2016 at 08:29
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On carparts4less, ECP's sister site, the gold QX 5 litre bottle is £14.49 without any code.
Mucho shopping around is needed.
On the subject of oil, i see Mannoil fully synthetic on the shelf at a local factor where i grabbed a wiper blade yesterday, priced around £30 for 5 litres, the same oil is on the usual auction site for as little as £46odd for 20 litres, it has all the right numbers, i'm not tempted to buy for the engine cos it's a brand i've only recently seen for sale though have some tranbsmission oils of theirs, but what is the collectives thoughts about this brand (and other new to me players, and indy oil suppliers in general), much is made of it being German quaility but as we know too well that can be a double edged sword even if it's not just the case the label was designed by some ex pat German chap living in Timbuctoo.
I use Millers and Morris oils usually, long established and reputable indy oil refiners, so not including them in the new or not heard of before range of suppliers.
I'm hoping RobJP sees this post, he has worked in oil for years so would very much value his opinion as an expert, and be interesting to see if brand or marketing or price influences the rest of us compared to Rob.
Edited by gordonbennet on 24/11/2016 at 09:44
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I think I asked RobJP a similar question once before about which brands were the best.
The local factors have Granville oils but, when I asked I got the 'Oil is oil' answer so I'm not any the wiser about it's quality.
I'm still running our Vauxhalls on the stash of GM oil I bought a few years ago for the sum of £2 a litre.
There was a hint that the Triple QX could be made by Shell sometime back on another forum.
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Vauxhall's "own" oil was very highly rated by the VX enthusiasts in the '90/00s (possibly still is) but I can't recall who was alleged to have made it.
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Oil isn't just oil, i've told this tale before.
When i bought my 70 series Landcruiser it was a relatively new for me low mileage used car, about 4/5 years old IIRC.
Whenever i buy a car i go right through it (been through the brakes on the one i bought about 3 weeks ago today and greased the prop, servied and changed cambelt last week) and that one was no different, bought a household named brand of oil commonly seen on shelves throughout the land (and since this episode avoided by me), correct grade and Diesel specific.
Fine for the first 1000 miles, but the engine started to sound rattly and it got worse, sounded to me like main bearings rumbling and assumed i'd dropped a right clanger, so i gingerly drove it to the nearest Toyota dealer, mechanic came out listened and pronounced it needed a full rebuild, ohbloomineck.
Then i recalled the non franchise Toyota dealer at Collyweston, long gone now, houses on the site, the mechanic there used to convert my very model into overland competition vehicles so quite why i hadn't remembered him first i can't say, so drove gingerly over there.
He came out revved it up and listened to the ominous sounds, and then told me in short words to drain the **** out the sump and put some proper oil in, which i did, and all was quiet again and remained so for the many years i ran that motor.
Eventually SWMBO wrote it off taking a short cut through some railings at about 50mph, a chap from Bradford bought the salvage repaired the minor body damage and contacted me to see if i had any more keys etc, during our conversation he told me he couldn't believe what a sweet engine it was, indeed it did sound lovely, all you could really hear when driving normally was the gentle whistle of the turbo spooling up.
Interestingly the LC i have now has basically the same engine, 3 litre 4 pot, but in D4D guise, where the old was was mechanical injectors.
Edited by gordonbennet on 24/11/2016 at 15:36
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Oil isn't just oil, i've told this tale before.
Yes, totally agree. When someone says "oil is oil" I just leave it at that, no point in trying to educate them as they are convinced they know best.
I'm currently using Mobil 1 0w40 in the Citroen (but, only because I got it very cheap).
I guess you'll be waiting for warmer weather to get the Dynax on the new Toyota GB ?
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I guess you'll be waiting for warmer weather to get the Dynax on the new Toyota GB ?
Yes indeed, though i have slopped ACF50 on any visble rust underneath which will help things during the salt season till i can do a thorough Bilt Hambering on it.
No nasty discoveries on the vehicle, nice to find coppaslip in use around the alloy wheel spigot fitting and used where new discs, which its had on the front, touch the hub centre.
While the pads were out i took their measurements to make ordering new ones in the fullness of time easier.
Had to buy a new 5 litre can of Millers fuel additive of course..:-) i had no intention of going back to Diesel but finding the right year Cruiser in the right condition is hard enough, so very few are petrol engined i could have waited years and never found the right one.
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It doesn't seem that long ago you bought the last one GB. Do you notice the extra idle speed torque over the petrol engine?
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Simple answer no, but things are never that simple.
The 3.4 V6 petrol in the Colorado is a superb engine, it's almost silent at tickover with no vibration felt in the car at all, but a lovely V6 burble reminiscent of an Essex 3 litre when driving, its variable valve timing and they somehow managed to give it Diesel like torque at low revs, the result being it takes off like a scalded cat with barely any throttle and has shocked quite a few car drivers, quite capable of spinning up a wheel on take off despite the full time 4WD, at 16 years old it doesn't use a drop of oil and takes 3000 miles for the clear sheen of fresh oil to darken slightly.
I would have been very happy to have the same engine in the later 120 series body, but for UK cars they only used the 4.0 litre V6, which is more powerful but to be honest the 3.4 is so rugged and simple and more than enough for the job, anything more would have been overkill, the 3.4 is available in other countries in the 120 body just wasn't imported here officially, i could have imported a used Prado diresct from Japan and that might have been the only way to find a petrol in good enough condition underneath, the falling pound didn't make that any more tempting, plus it's fraught with what ifs anway.
The Diesel has no more usable torque at any revs from what i can feel (the Diesel isn't running weak because as with all versions of this engines i've owned you can hear the turbo spool straight up from first touch of the throttle), both vehicles are automatic but both will provide adequate performance without ever going higher than 2500 rpm and the petrol can make quite a pace without going over 2000, both cruise at 70 at a flicker over 2000rpm, obviously the Diesel is more fuel efficient but not i suspect by a great amount, a Diesel driven fast enough to keep up with the petrol version would i suspect only be a couple of mpg behind.
Having never had a petrol Landcruiser before i have been very impressed, had the Collie been younger (year 2000) and the existing fuel tank been where the Diesel tank of the LC5 is i would have had it LPG converted without a second thought.
Handily cos the new one is an LC5 its got a fast water heater, it looks a bit like a second aircon pump and when you press the auxilliary heat switch on a cold morning it increases the tickover to about 1100rpm and engages that heat pump exactly as an aircon unit would (also driven by the auxilliary drive belt), water pipes take the heat this makes straight to the heater matrix, quite clever and simple, obviously being a Diesel it takes twice as long as the petrol to warm up normally but this system makes up for it.
Unhandily its got lots of things i didn't want such as air rear suspension and a touch screen infotainment thingy that controls everything, kerbleedinching when either of those go wrong..if they do i shall be kicking meself down the street.
Also, disappointingly, the 5 speed box is, wait for it, no servicing required, yeah right, although it doesn't have a dipstick so i may have to entrust the gearbox oil change to Toyota who can measure the level electronically.
As with all things, they don't make 'em like they used to.
Edited by gordonbennet on 24/11/2016 at 19:23
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Yes indeed, though i have slopped ACF50 on any visble rust underneath which will help things during the salt season till i can do a thorough Bilt Hambering on it.
I swear by ACF50 after nearly 10 years of using it on my bikes. On my 1976 Suzuki GT, a single brushed-on application on the chromework before the roads were salted would last all winter. Of course, after a few rides on winter roads it would look horrible and crusty, but in the spring it would Gunk off leaving the chrome totally unblemished - even where the 30+ year old chrome was already pitted, the ACF stopped rust developing.
As you point out, it will get washed away on a car underbody, it's not designed for that job, but as a rust-killer and preventative in areas that are not in the direct blast of road-spray and muck, it's remarkable stuff.
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