Maybe my terminology is wrong, but as I understand it the "pins" (i.e. the bolts that hold the caliper on) are out. They came out easily, because I put silicon grease and PTFE tape on them last year, when I stripped the other caliper, which had a stuck piston. I ran out of time to strip this caliper then.

Semantics, but the distinction may be important (see below).

The main current problem is with one of the yellow metal (finish?) bushings.

Plan A used a spare-tyre holdown out of an abandoned Corolla, but the plate on the end wasn't strong enough. Hopefully its backed up with a nut in use, otherwise I wouldn't want to be in the back of a rolling Corolla estate.

[url=www.servimg.com/view/18149521/231][img]i35.servimg.com/u/f35/18/14/95/21/th/img_6936.jpg[/img][/url]

Plan B used another spare tyre holdown (either from the Skywing or Sierra, can't remember) with some washers and sockets..

[url=www.servimg.com/view/18149521/232][img]i35.servimg.com/u/f35/18/14/95/21/th/img_6937.jpg[/img][/url]

[url=www.servimg.com/view/18149521/233][img]i35.servimg.com/u/f35/18/14/95/21/th/img_6938.jpg[/img][/url]

Bit wimpy. I'll try and rig something better, but the damage to that improvised thrust washer suggests this bushing isn't going anywhere with this technique alone.

So serious heat/cold (perhaps in conjunction with a vice/big hammer) seems to be the next option, or take it to someone with a hydraulic press, probably followed by a new caliper, if I can get one.

Re "Loctite freeze release", probably unobtainium here, but electronics places might have something equivalent. Low-tech version might be to heat the ear up with a butane torch and then squirt ice water through the middle with a syringe. In that situation, a big hammer would be easier than fiddling around putting improvised presses in rapidly cooling (but still dangerously hot) metal.

HOWEVER (cue red face / schoolboy error icon) I'm having trouble understanding the consequences of this stuck bushing, especially since the brakes seemed to be working OK.

The bushings needs to move freely on the pins, and they do.

Do the calipers need to move freely on the bushings?

IF I understand it correctly, a stuck bushing does restrict the movement of the caliper.

If the caliper wasn't moving at all, I'd only have one pad effective. Perhaps there's enough movement between the end of the bushing and the caliper to bring the other pad into play.

The pads aren't currently very worn, but in this scenario, as they wear, the other pad will become ineffective. Shims might buy more time.

Edited by edlithgow on 29/08/2016 at 04:54

Loctite freeze release", probably unobtainium here. Where is here ?? Regards Peter

Ed's other post indicates he's in Taiwan.

The corrosion supported the weight of the car easily, including a bit of hammering on a suspension plate above it.

There are a couple of Stuart tanks in a playground in the nearby city (only considered light tanks by mid/late WW2, but probably heavy enough) that I thought I'd try, (no more Mr Nice Guy stylee) but on the way there came across a shipping container in use as a workshop, mounted on steel wheel hubs at the corners to give it some height. That, with my (5?) ton bottle jack and a socket, did it.

I pressed it back and forth a bit with that, then finished it off with hammering, tapping on a wall, and finally drifted it out using the end of the pin around the edge of the end of the bushing.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Edited by edlithgow on 02/09/2016 at 05:05